1. As you know, the quality of ceilings in our apartments leaves much to be desired. Meanwhile, the ceiling is the most noticeable part of the interior, and from that
how even and solid our ceiling looks, the overall impression largely depends, which can be irreparably spoiled by the difference due to
unevenly laid floor slabs, and simply cracks at the junction of these same slabs. What to do? You can contact a construction company
but their services can cost us a pretty penny, not everyone can afford their services. It remains to do the repair yourself.
How to level the ceiling with your own hands, we will tell in our article.

Ceiling leveling methods

2 . There are two main types of work on leveling the ceiling - using putty and "dry".
The first is the method in which putty is used, as a rule, of two types: starting and finishing. The second is used for rooms with a large difference in ceiling heights or if it is necessary to cover any communications under the ceiling.

If the difference does not exceed 2 cm, it is enough to apply two layers of putty. To level the difference from 2 to 5 cm, you can also use putty, but additional reinforcement is required.
The dry method is used for drops of more than 5 cm. This type includes plasterboard ceilings, ceilings from plastic panels and stretch ceilings.

Putty, as a rule, is sold in the form of a dry powder, therefore, in order to start using it, it is necessary to prepare an aqueous solution.
In a container with warm water(the amount of water is determined by the manufacturer and indicated on the package), the powder is carefully poured and mixed thoroughly
construction mixer. If you do not have construction mixer, then you can use a puncher with a special nozzle.

The mixture is thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous mass. After mixing, the mixture should be infused for 15-30 minutes.
You should be aware that the "wet" method implies the mandatory preparation of the base of the ceiling before applying putty. The base is cleaned of dust and dirt
and primed. If on the basis there are greasy pollution, they should be removed with a solvent. After the base is ready, apply putty.

This work is most conveniently performed using two spatulas - a small one (the putty is placed from the container on a wide spatula) and a wide one.
spatula, which is used to level the putty on the ceiling. Putty should be applied with smooth, wide movements. When applying putty,
spatula is held under acute angle to the ceiling. Each layer of putty is applied "at a time". putty layer,
applied at a time should not exceed 1.5 cm. If the height difference is greater than given value, then the putty is applied in two stages.

ceiling putty ceiling putty

First, the first layer is applied, it is allowed to dry, after which it is primed. Then the next layer is applied. In addition, as we wrote earlier, if application is required
layer more than 2 cm, reinforcement is required. Reinforcement is carried out using a special mesh, which is glued to the base, or fixed with special brackets.

After the putty dries, it must be sanded, smoothing out all the influxes and drops. To perform this type of work, we recommend using
a puncher with a special nozzle, after which another layer of the same putty is applied - the so-called "leveling" layer.

The better you applied the first layer, the easier it will be to level it.
When the putty dries, the finishing putty is applied. Finishing putty applied in two layers, with a break of 3-4 hours. Now we give
let the putty dry properly and sand the surface until a perfectly even state is achieved.

Grinding the ceiling

Grinding is carried out with a sandpaper or a grinding stone, in smooth circular motions.
After the surface is sanded, it must be primed. The next day we paint the surface. As a rule, for this
water-based paint is used, white color or some other soft shade.
As for the "dry" methods of leveling the ceiling, the choice of one or another coating depends on financial opportunities the owner of the premises.

We prime the ceiling

The most budgetary would be to use drywall sheets attached to metal frame. Particular attention should be paid
installation of the frame, since a poorly fixed frame can lead to cracks at the joints of the sheets.
Unfortunately, within the framework of this article, it is not possible to dwell in more detail on the description of each type of "dry" ceilings. But on our site you can find separate articles,
in which the question of how to level the ceiling with the help of plasterboard sheets, plastic panels, stretch ceilings.

Video: How to level the ceiling with putty

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Once people, moving into the long-awaited, longed-for a separate apartment, did not really pay attention to the beauty of the ceilings. But, time does not stand still, and the current landlord wants to live in a more comfortable home, and one of the indicators of this comfort is a flat ceiling. Yes, our housing stock does not shine with the beauty of the ceilings at all - everyone knows this. However, every homeowner wants the ceiling to be beautiful and even.

How to level the ceiling, without much damage to family budget, and even better, by yourself, with your own hands? There are a variety of methods by which the ceiling is leveled.

An uneven ceiling does not please anyone. How to hide its irregularities?

In order for the ceilings in your apartment to have a normal look, there are many ways.

The most common way today is to level the ceiling with plaster and putty. However, this does not negate other ways.

Alignment methods:

• As already mentioned, plaster and putty;
• Suspended plasterboard ceiling;
• Stretch ceiling;
• rack ceiling;
• PVC panels;
• Foam boards.

As you already understood, these methods are divided into "dry" and "wet". "Dry" methods are increasingly in demand in recent years.

How to level the ceiling with your own hands: cheap and cheerful

Of course, the easiest thing is to hire a team of qualified craftsmen who will quickly and professionally make any repairs for you.

However, not everything is as simple as it might seem at first glance. Hiring a workforce can create unnecessary problems.

Calling a brigade is always a risk. You will ask why?

Risk reasons:

1. There are a great many amateur brigades who do not really know how to do anything, however, they pretend to be high-class craftsmen;
2. There are enough swindlers who, having gained confidence, receive an advance payment, and disappear forever.

So, the best way- do everything with your own hands, having previously familiarized yourself with video and photographic materials, as well as by reading special articles on this topic.

Alignment options for uneven ceiling: "dry" or "wet"

So you have planned overhaul of your home, and no matter how hard you try to reduce the list of work performed, and at the same time, the estimate, you will not be able to bypass the repair of ceilings.

The main options for repairing the ceiling, as mentioned above, are in the amount of two: “dry” and “wet”.

"Dry" is more preferable to those apartment owners who do not like dirt and protracted repairs, and the so-called "wet" is preferable to adherents of a more conservative finish.

• "Dry" method: diverse, because it is not limited to one type of finish. This method includes all types of suspended ceilings, as well as finishing with all kinds of tiles: PVC, foam, etc.
• "Wet" way: feasible when materials such as plaster and putty are used.

More details on how this is done can be found in the following subsections.

Alignment of walls and ceilings: we use dry mixes

Uneven walls, as well as uneven ceiling- a real disaster bad job builders. But, be that as it may, the situation must be corrected.

In order for your apartment to look decent, repairs should begin with leveling the walls and ceilings. Of course, before that you need to "bring to mind" the wiring.

After preparing the walls and ceilings, which includes the removal of whitewash, loose plaster and fungus, you need to prepare the tool necessary for the job.

Tool:

1. Putty knife;
2. Rule;
3. Level;
4. "Falcon";
5. Utensils for the preparation of plaster;
6. Drill with a special nozzle, or a construction mixer;
7. Roller, brush and soil tray.

Now find out where you need to apply more layer on the walls for alignment.

If the deviations are large, you need to use plaster, if not very much, putty is enough.

Leveling the ceiling

• We install aluminum beacons on putty. The distance between the beacons must be less than the width of the rule.
• We make plaster using dry, ready-made mixtures. The mixture is prepared strictly according to the instructions.
• Plaster is applied to the ceiling tiles with a spatula.

In the same way, we align the walls, using beacons, if necessary. And where the irregularities are small, we use putty.

Do-it-yourself ceiling alignment with Rotband: the same process

Rotband - improved plaster mix, from the Knauf company, in the serious quality of whose products there is no doubt.

Using Rotband, you greatly facilitate your work.

So, you chose Rotband, apparently on the advice of experts or acquaintances. Your choice is not accidental, and there are reasons for this, since Rotband has clear advantages.

Advantages:

1. Quick drying, since its basis is gypsum;
2. The speed of work may become higher for those who have skills in the field of puttying. If the ceiling is finally leveled within 24 hours, then top coat You won't need it at all.

Rotband is a mixture that is much better quality than a regular mixture. It is suitable for any planes, and is very popular, especially when leveling ceilings.

Materials for leveling the ceiling: choose to your taste and wallet

When choosing a material, we take into account your budget and your own perception correct finish ceiling.

Of course, if your budget allows, you can make a stretch ceiling with photo printing, or a 3D ceiling, and if your budget is modest, or you live in an apartment, of course, you can and should choose a more modest solution for finishing.

There are plenty of materials that the modern construction market represents.

What needs to be taken into account:

• Budget. Of course, you can’t do a stretch ceiling with a meager budget.
• Ceiling height. Ceiling too low suspended ceiling inappropriate.
• Is there a need to hide engineering structures under the ceilings. In this case, as it is impossible, by the way, there will be a false ceiling.
• Just make it cheap redecorating, say, for sale or exchange. In this case, you can either level the ceiling with putty, or, even easier, glue it with foam tiles.

Thus, taking into account all of the above, you need to decide on the choice of the material you need.

If you want a ceiling rounded corners, cheaper and easier to use a special profile than to suffer with plaster.

How to level the ceiling with your own hands (video)

And in conclusion, it is worth summing up everything that has been said. How to mask a curved ceiling, and which method to use in this case, in order to correct all defects base ceiling, You decide by reading articles and watching video clips on this topic. With the help of the mentioned materials, you can independently remove the defects of the ceilings. Perhaps you will align concrete ceiling building mixtures perhaps arrange a stretch ceiling in your private house or apartment. It all depends on your preferences and the budget allocated for repairs.

Uneven ceilings are an ongoing problem in both old and new homes. If the differences in the level of the walls can be visually hidden by spotted wallpaper or decor items, then you can’t stick wallpaper on the ceiling and you can’t hang a picture. It is necessary to carry out the alignment of the ceiling, the cost of which, as a rule, is several times higher than the cost of leveling the walls. You can entrust such work only to proven masters, so that later you do not have to redo it. And, if you do not have the opportunity to hire a serious high-paying company, you better learn it yourself. In most cases, do-it-yourself ceiling alignment is better than that of an inexperienced handyman. In any case, you will treat your ceiling with more responsibility and accuracy than a stranger. And the new skill will undoubtedly come in handy in the subsequent repair of your home.

Causes of uneven ceiling

Significant differences in the level of the ceiling are most often the result of improper laying of floor slabs. Often the slabs are not just laid on different levels, but also installed at an angle, which makes the task even more difficult. In addition, cracks and uneven ceilings sometimes appear due to shrinkage of the house or washing away of its foundation. Minor depressions may be formed due to poor cementation of the joints between ceiling tiles, as well as due to the laying of wiring on the ceiling. But in any case, when starting to level the ceiling, the price of which depends on the technology, you must first determine the magnitude of the difference.

Determining the magnitude of the difference

The size of the difference between the highest and lowest point of the ceiling depends on which method of leveling it should be chosen. For this measurement, it is most convenient to use a water or laser level (level). But, if you are not a professional builder, and do not have such a device, the usual building level. Having applied it to the lowest point of the ceiling, we measure the vertical distance from the opposite edge of the level to the highest point of the ceiling.

Ceiling alignment methods:

• Raw ways . They are called so because dry mixes in this case are diluted with water. This includes plaster and putty walls. They are used if the height of the difference is no more than 5-7 cm. With a difference of 5 to 7 cm, the ceiling is first plastered. and then plastered. With a difference of 2 to 5 cm putty is immediately applied to the reinforcing mesh. And if the difference is quite insignificant (up to 2 cm), only a layer of putty without a grid is enough.
• Dry ways they involve not so much leveling the ceiling as masking its irregularities with the help of various dry materials:

Raw ceiling leveling technique

First, the old paint and plaster are dismantled. To do this, it is softened with a wet roller and knocked down with a sharp spatula. If you have a drill or hammer drill, they can be dismantled faster. Special mixtures are also sold for washing off old paint, and in the old days, iodine solution was used instead. If, after dismantling, you find mold on the floor slabs, you should treat it with an antifungal aerosol or copper sulfate.

Next, mark the walls. To do this, using a level (laser, water or ordinary), determine the lowest point draft ceiling, according to which they will level it. Mark it with a pencil on the wall, and draw a line along the entire perimeter of the walls of the room, which will serve as a guide for the lower boundary of the future ceiling. But keep in mind that even the most correctly set using laser level the horizontal will not seem horizontal enough if you have an uneven floor.

After marking, the ceiling is treated with a primer for concrete 2 times, and allowed to dry. For wet rooms use moisture resistant soil. If there is a need for plastering (difference of more than 2 cm), use gypsum or cement plaster. Gypsum plaster has more pronounced insulating properties, but is not resistant to moisture. Only used in damp rooms cement plaster. With a significant difference, it is additionally reinforced with a paint or metal mesh. The paint mesh has a sticky inside, and is easily glued to the ceiling. The metal mesh is attached to nails or screws.

The plaster is kneaded according to the manufacturer's proportion in a container big size using a drill. For its application, two spatulas are used. With one spatula, the mixture is smeared on the second, and with the second - directly on the ceiling. If necessary, the plaster is applied in several layers, each subsequent after the previous one has completely dried. Next, the ceiling is puttied first with a base, and then with a finishing finely abrasive putty. After it dries, the walls are rubbed with sandpaper. Ceiling alignment, video:

Dry ceiling leveling technique

Regardless of the material chosen for the ceiling sheathing, the technique for attaching them is very similar. In this case, the dismantling of the old ceiling can not even be carried out, except to remove what is crumbling by itself. Then, in the same way as described earlier, they mark the walls, but somewhat retreat from the lower point of the draft ceiling. If it is a stretch ceiling, they recede at least 3-4 cm, and if siding or drywall - by 10, and sometimes 15 cm. This is necessary in order to fit under the ceiling starting profile, all the necessary communications, and there was at least a minimal gap for ventilation.

Further, profiles, or the so-called crate, are installed along the lines marked on the walls. Metal profiles are used for drywall, and wooden profiles for siding. After that, it mounts itself ceiling covering, and in the case of their pvc stretch ceilings, it is also preheated with a heat gun. Do-it-yourself ceiling alignment, video:

Repair of any premises (residential or office) always begins with the finishing of the ceiling. For this there are different ways, but whichever one you choose, painting or wallpapering, etc., first of all, you need to complete preparatory work. And the most time-consuming of them is do-it-yourself ceiling alignment.

Tools needed to level the ceiling

• Three types of metal spatulas different sizes, with a rubberized handle.
• Capacity for 15-20 liters, with high sides and straight walls. High sides will protect against excessive splashing, while mixing, and straight walls will make it possible to pick up the solution with a spatula without residue.
• Mixer for preparation of working solution.
• Paint brush and roller for applying primer.
• Construction sanding for final polishing of the ceiling surface for painting.

Before proceeding with the ceiling leveling procedure, it is necessary to prepare the surface by cleaning it of old paint, whitewash or other coating. And the more carefully this is done, the better the subsequent finishing operations will be performed. The surface is usually cleaned with a special scraper or spatula. You can also clean dry paint. But much faster and with less effort, you can do this work if you moisten the surface of the ceiling with plenty of water and arrange a draft in the room. The old coating will begin to bubble from this and it will not be difficult to remove it. After removing it, the ceiling must be thoroughly washed.

The next step is to decide on the alignment method. The choice of material for the primer depends on this. They differ in purpose:

1. under water-based paint,
2. under putty or plaster,
3. suitable for all types - universal.

Preliminary stage (for critically uneven surfaces): ceiling plaster

Plastering the ceiling is a highly labor-intensive process. And although there are many various methods elimination of irregularities in the ceiling, leveling the ceiling with plaster is still relevant. And if the level difference approaches the 5 centimeter mark, then this is the only Possible Solution in obtaining quality repairs.

You can plaster any surface: concrete and wood, columns, beams and other structures made of steel. Before applying plaster to the ceiling, preparatory work should be carried out.

Training

Installation of beacons

Plastering work is usually carried out on lighthouses, the installation of which is the most crucial moment. If they are installed correctly, you will end up with a perfectly smooth plastered surface. Therefore, it is important that the entire technology of plastering the ceiling on beacons is observed.

• It is necessary to start this work with leveling the room. On the walls it is necessary to mark the zero mark. For this, a paint cord is used.
• The location of the point that is the lowest on the ceiling is determined. This is the place where the first beacon was installed.
• Under the beacons, every 300 mm, gypsum marks are applied in small molds over the entire surface, on which they will be installed. This should be done in such a way that there are as few connections as possible, since it is in them that errors are most often made.
• It is not recommended to lay a layer of plaster on the ceiling more than 5 cm. Therefore, the height of the beacons should not exceed this value. To control them in a horizontal plane, a two-meter level is required. It is carried out after the installation of all beacons is completed.

Lighthouse plastering

When you are done with the installation of beacons, you can start finishing the ceiling with plaster using the following technology:

• Prepare a working solution - gypsum, cement or lime. It must be remembered that when using a gypsum-based solution, each subsequent layer is applied 20-25 minutes after the previous one; cement - not earlier than in two hours; calcareous - only after the previous layer turns white, preventing it from completely drying out.
• Apply an even layer of spray without leveling it.
• On spraying, observing the time required to fix the applied solution, several primer layers are distributed. They must be leveled each time, and ensure that they do not exceed the level of the beacons, and also that various defects do not appear on the primed surface, such as shells or pits. The thickness of the covering layer of the plaster depends on this.
• Remove beacons with stamps. This is done after the distribution of the last primer layer, and the used solution is applied to the places where they were located.
• To check the evenness of the plaster laying, using the rule that is applied by changing direction. The irregularities revealed at the same time are cut off or, on the contrary, increased by an additional layer. At the same time, it is necessary to close up the internal corners and the joints of the ceilings with the wall. This work is done by a trowel.
• In conclusion plastering works, apply a top layer, which is carefully leveled, creating a smooth surface.

If the difference in the level of the ceiling is less than 5 cm, you can level the ceilings with dry mixes. They are advisable to use for small amounts of work, in particular for patching potholes when buying a large number other materials is not advantageous in financial plan. Rotband (made in Germany) is considered the best of them - universal blend for plaster works, on a plaster basis.

After completing the “rough” leveling with plaster, you can proceed to the final leveling with putty.

Main stage: puttying the ceiling

For processing ceiling without significant differences in ceilings, it is best to use leveling the ceiling with putty. Putty differs from plaster in the size of the filler. She has a small, not exceeding 1000 microns. Therefore, it is most suitable for removing small defects on wood and other surfaces, such as cracks and other irregularities. This achieves perfect smoothness.

The putty is applied in a very thin layer. Before applying putty, all layers are removed from the ceiling old plaster(if there was one) to the ground. Small irregularities, as well as any bumps, are cleaned with a construction sandpaper or a hinged grater, on a long handle. Then, a paint grid can be attached to the surface to be trimmed using PVA glue or a special composition. It is often called sickle because of its similarity to gauze. Recently, on sale you can buy a self-adhesive serpyanka.

Having completed preparatory stage, it is necessary to prepare a solution for putty. To do this, 30 kg of dry putty mixture is poured with 12 liters of water and quickly mixed. It is best to use a construction mixer equipped with a large whisk or a drill with a special mixer for this. When finished, the consistency of the mixture should resemble thick sour cream.

All further work must be done promptly, since the prepared solution very quickly begins to set and harden. This is done as follows: using a narrow spatula, the solution is applied to a spatula with a wide blade. Then it is transferred to the surface of the ceiling and pressed tightly against it. Do not waste time on leveling emerging divorces. They are easily removed after hardening with a grout mesh. As soon as the last applied layer of putty dries, the entire surface must be sanded. For this, a special grout with a mesh is used, the minimum coarseness of which is 120 units.

To make your work stand out high quality and delighted you with the beauty of a flat and smooth surface, it is better to purchase all materials (primer, putty and paint) from one manufacturer.

Puttying the ceiling step by step

So, do-it-yourself ceiling puttying can be divided into the following stages:

• Preparatory, during which the cleaning is carried out concrete floor, which consists in removing all irregularities that are higher than two mm. For this, a puncher equipped with a special nozzle is used.
• Ceiling primer with a composition that has deep penetrating properties. It is performed with a paint brush or roller.
• Performance starting putty as a leveling layer. To do this, it is applied to the surface of the ceiling, with a layer of 1 cm. By consistency, ready solution putty should be like thick sour cream. To obtain a flat surface, a metal semiter is used.
• The final stage is the finishing putty of the ceiling. It is recommended to apply it in two layers. If the temperature in the room is above 18º C and it is well ventilated, then it can be done four hours after applying the starting putty. Under other conditions, the drying of the previous layer may be delayed and the transition to the final stage will have to be postponed the next day.
• If the premises meet the conditions necessary for fast setting layer of putty, then the very next day, you can start grinding the surface. It is advisable to use a vibration grinder for this.

Whatever method of leveling the ceiling you choose, do not forget that for painting, on the leveled surface, you must apply a primer layer, which can be used as the same paint that will be used for the main painting.

Putty application technique

Take two spatulas - one with a wide blade (in left hand). A ready-made solution is applied to it. V right hand- working spatula.

The mixture should be taken little by little, trying to distribute it in the center of the blade of the working spatula. It should be applied as follows, so that it lies completely on the surface of the ceiling.

You need to move in such a way that the surface is even and smooth, go back and redo the already finished plots it is forbidden.

So that there are no stripes on them, the working spatula must be held at a slight angle to the surface of the ceiling. This will allow its middle part to level the putty on the surface. This will move one edge over the rough surface, while the other (the one that moved over the already treated area) will be in the air, which will provide a smooth surface without streaks and scratches.

The quality of the puttying works largely depends on the correct choice of spatula. Its canvas should be of medium hardness, since excessive softness causes excessive deflection of the spatula, while its side edges turn forward. As a result, stripes remain. Therefore, a standard spatula needs to be slightly modified by turning the sharpness of the corners with a file. In this case, the end of the blade will acquire some ovality. This will ensure convenience and safety in work, and the finished surface will be of excellent quality.

Video instructions for puttying the ceiling with your own hands

Leveling the ceiling is carried out before painting or wallpapering it - these types of finishes require a smooth and even surface. This work is not difficult and does not require special training or specialized tools. If you wish, you can do it yourself, just follow detailed instructions given in the article.

Ways to level the ceiling

There are several ways to get a smooth ceiling surface without drops and roughness.

V modern apartments and houses most often use the following types of finishes:

• putty, suitable for eliminating small differences up to 2 cm, sealing cracks, seams between plates;
• plaster, to level differences and irregularities up to 5 cm, gypsum, cement or polymer compounds are used;
• sheathing with plasterboard sheets; this method allows not only to even out large differences in the level of the ceiling, but also to perform insulation and soundproofing.

Choosing the right way to level the ceiling is quite simple: you need to evaluate the size of the irregularities and act on this basis. Do it in the following way.

1. Using a bubble or laser level, a strictly horizontal line is drawn from the corner of the ceiling, first on one of the walls adjacent to it, then on the other.
2. Make level marks in the two corners to which the line was drawn. From these marks, they draw with the help of a level on the remaining walls strictly horizontal lines. They must meet at the last corner.
3. Measure the maximum difference from the control lines to the ceiling. Based on the value obtained, choose a method for leveling the ceiling.

Note! Narrow gaps, for example, between floor slabs, can be plastered, even if their depth is more than 5 cm.

Ceiling preparation

Preparatory work is practically independent of the alignment method - they must be performed in any case. The amount of work depends on the previous ceiling finish.

Whitewash or water-based paint must be removed from the ceiling. To do this, the ceiling is treated with warm water using a brush or spray gun, and after the paint layer swells, it is scraped off with a metal spatula. The ceiling is finally washed with a sponge, and then primed.

To make the whitewash wash off faster, you can use one of special formulations: Metylan, Quelyd Dissoucol or Probel for chalky whitewash removal or Alfa-20 for limescale. You can also use a solution of weak alkali - soda ash or Whiteness. With their help, in addition, you can clean dirt from the ceiling.

After cleaning, the ceiling is washed clean water and primed with one of the compositions that improve the adhesion of plaster and bind dust. The primer is applied in one or two layers with a roller or a wide brush, be sure to dry for the time indicated on the package.

Resistant paints and enamels easier to remove mechanically, using an angle grinder with an abrasive nozzle. This work is quite dusty, but it allows you to qualitatively clean the ceiling of paint and partially level it.

When sanding the ceiling, you must use a respirator and goggles, and to reduce the amount of dust, you can connect a vacuum cleaner hose to the grinder. After cleaning the paint, the ceiling is swept with a broom or brush and washed with water, and then primed.

Wallpaper from the ceiling must also be removed. Moisten them with warm water or a wallpaper remover such as Metylan or Quelyd Dissoucol. This can be done with a brush, roller or sprayer.

After waiting a few minutes for the wallpaper to get wet, gently pry it off with a spatula and remove it, trying not to tear the canvas. If the wallpaper delaminates and bottom layer remains on the ceiling, they must be wetted again. After removing all the strips, the ceiling is cleaned with a spatula from the remnants of glue and putty and washed with water. The ceiling is primed and dried, after which it is ready for leveling.

This method is used to eliminate small irregularities, seal seams, and also as final alignment before painting. The total thickness of the putty layer should not exceed 2 cm, otherwise, over time, the coating will begin to crumble and fall off.

Before starting work, it is necessary to carefully embroider all the seams and cracks in which the plaster is not firmly held. They are cleaned to a solid base with a spatula and treated with a primer. You also need to remove stains from grease and rust, dirt. This is done using different compositions, the recipe of which is given in the table.

Table. Compositions for removing stains from the ceiling.

Types of stains	Composition and method of removal
Oily pollution	soda ash and laundry soap- 100 grams per liter hot water. Treat and wait until the stains disappear, then rinse with water.
Rust	Weak solutions of acids: hydrochloric, sulfuric or orthophosphoric. Scrub with a sponge until it disappears and rinse with water. You can use tools to remove rust from the car body.
Salt deposits, yellowing and white streaks	Solutions of weak organic acids: oxalic, acetic. Acid-based plumbing products are suitable. Treat, wait until the stains disappear, rinse with water.
Mold, fungus	Any antiseptic for concrete. The stains are washed off with soapy water, a layer of antiseptic is applied and dried.
Dirt, soot	Laundry soap or detergent"White". Process and wash.

Building materials and tools:

• starting and finishing putty;
• spatulas of different widths;
• a bucket and a construction mixer for mixing putty;
• serpyanka tape for sealing seams;
• fine-grained sandpaper;
• level.

How to choose a putty composition for the ceiling?

This question arises for everyone who first undertakes repairs with their own hands. The assortment presented in stores is quite large, so it is sometimes difficult to make a choice. What you need to know when going to the store for putty?

1. Any compositions are suitable for dry rooms: based on gypsum, cement or polymers, but cement compositions are harder to apply and grind. Therefore, it is better to choose gypsum putties: they are light, plastic and after drying give a light gray or white shade. Polymer additives improve the elasticity of the composition and extend the life of the working solution.
2. For wet rooms - bathroom, kitchen - require the use of cement or polymer moisture-resistant putties. Gypsum at high humidity will start to flake off and fall off.
3. If you do not have a construction mixer or desire to prepare putty from a dry mix yourself, you can buy ready composition in the form of a paste. Most manufacturers present putties both in dry and ready-made form.
4. To apply the first leveling layer, starter putty is used, it has a coarser coarse-grained structure and allows you to apply a layer up to 4-5 mm. For final leveling, use a finishing putty with minimum size particles.

Ceiling putty

After preparation necessary tool, materials and the surface of the ceiling, you can start puttying.

Step 1. A working solution is prepared from the powder: the required amount of water is poured into the bucket and the dry putty starting mixture is poured. Mix until smooth with a mixer and leave for 10-15 minutes until ripening.

Starting ceiling putty - step by step instructions

Step 2 The first step is to seal the seams between the floor slabs and cracks. To do this, they are glued with a sickle tape with an adhesive layer, thanks to which it is easily attached to the ceiling. The seams are puttied directly through the sickle, completely filling the seam or crack.

If the gap in the ceiling is too deep, it is first sealed with a repair compound, and puttying is started only after it dries. Excess putty is immediately removed with a wide spatula.

Dry the first layer for several hours - the drying time of a specific composition is indicated on the package. If necessary, clean with coarse sandpaper, removing protrusions and large irregularities.

Step 3 After sealing the seams, putty is applied with a thin layer on the entire plane of the ceiling with a wide spatula, leveling it along the control line previously applied to the walls. If necessary, two or three layers of putty are applied so that the thickness of each of them does not exceed 5 mm. Allow the layers to dry between applications.

Mix the finishing putty in the same way. Before applying it, the surface of the ceiling is sanded, removing excess starting putty. Layer finishing putty should be no more than 2 mm. Apply it with a wide spatula, carefully leveling and removing excess.

Step 4 After the finishing putty has completely dried, it is rubbed with a trowel or fine-grained sandpaper and checked with a portable lamp - when illuminating part of the ceiling, there should be no shadows and small glare.

Such a surface is suitable for any kind of further finishing: whitewashing, painting, gluing thin wallpapers. Under embossed dense wallpaper finishing putty can be omitted - they hide small irregularities well.

Note! Under light paint or wallpaper, it is better to choose a finishing putty, which turns white after drying.

Plastering levels the differences in the ceiling from 2 to 5 cm. It is impossible to apply such a layer of putty to the ceiling, because it will not hold. Plaster has better adhesion to the surface, in addition, a reinforcing mesh is used to strengthen it.

Plastering can not only make the ceiling horizontal, but also repair large chips and damage. As in the case of putty, before applying the plaster, the ceiling is primed and its level is marked.

• plaster mixture based on gypsum or cement;
• reinforcing masonry fine-mesh mesh and dowel-nails;
• drill or perforator;
• construction mixer and a bucket for mixing mortar;
• spatulas;
• trowel and coarse sandpaper.

The preparation of the ceiling for plaster must be carried out carefully - this will ensure good adhesion. It is advisable to prime the ceiling with the composition deep penetration"Betonkontakt" or similar to create a rough surface - plaster fits better on it.

Step 1. Pull the mesh onto the surface of the ceiling. To do this, holes are drilled in the ceiling in increments of 30 cm with a perforator, a grid is cut out according to the size of the ceiling, if necessary, and fixed with dowels-fungi.

Note! To prevent dust from flying into your eyes during drilling, you must use glasses or attach a catcher from a cardboard cup or a cut plastic bottle to the cartridge.

Step 2 bred plaster mortar, suitable for your room, according to the instructions on the package. Usually they do it this way: they open a bag of plaster and pour some of the material (about 3-4 kg) into a bucket. Next, calculate how much water is required, in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. For example, on the packaging of "Rotband" it is said that 6-7 liters of water are required for 10 kg of the mixture. We take the average value - 6.5 liters.

Then we make simple calculations:

10 kg = 6.5 l

X \u003d 6.5x3 / 10 \u003d 1.9 liters.

It turns out that 3 kg of plaster will require about 2 liters of water. The required amount is measured and poured into a container where the solution will be mixed. Using an electric drill with a mixer attachment, the plaster is mixed with water until ready mix will not acquire the consistency of thick sour cream. Typically, this takes about 2 minutes.

Step 3 Plastering starts from the lowest angle. Apply a wide spatula solution over the mesh and press through it so that it fills all the holes. You should not try to immediately level the ceiling with large differences, it is better to apply one or two more layers. The task of the first layer is good adhesion to the mesh and ceiling. The entire surface of the ceiling is plastered, leveling its level as much as possible along the control line, but trying not to make the layer thicker than 2 cm. After application, the plaster is thoroughly dried.

Step 4 The second layer finally closes the mesh and level the surface of the ceiling. For each layer it is necessary to mix a fresh portion of the plaster.

Note! It is impossible to dilute ready-made and thickened plaster with water to improve plasticity!

Step 5 Last layer plasters are rubbed with a trowel to the smoothest possible state. A wooden or metal trowel is applied to the ceiling and the surface is leveled in a circular motion. This will allow you to spend less time on finishing putty.

The ceiling is kept until the plaster is completely dry. If planned further painting, then it is primed and a layer of finishing putty is applied. For gluing dense and embossed wallpapers, it is enough to prime a well-aligned ceiling.

Video - Plaster ceiling

Leveling the ceiling with drywall

With the help of drywall, you can give any ceiling a completely smooth surface.

This method is useful in two cases:

• if the height differences on the ceiling exceed 5 cm;
• if heat or sound insulation is required.

Plasterboard ceilings are called suspended - GKL sheets cannot be mounted directly on concrete, it requires the installation of a frame made of special profile. The frame is attached to the ceiling with hangers or brackets, allowing you to accurately set horizontal level drywall sheets. Also, using this technology, you can close any communications, protrusions and pipes.

Note! The drywall construction device lowers the ceiling level by at least 5-10 cm. In apartments with low ceilings this is undesirable.

Payment required amount GKL sheets and profiles are performed according to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. To do this, it is convenient to draw a sketch on a scale and mark on it the location of the guides, hangers and the sheets themselves. Guides are usually located at a distance of 40-60 cm in the form of a lattice.

The preparation of the draft ceiling before fixing drywall can be carried out not as carefully as before painting - it is enough to remove peeling coatings and repair cracks that can worsen the soundproofing properties of the ceiling.

Required materials and tools:

• GKL or GVL sheets, depending on the type of room;
• galvanized profile and plasterboard hangers;
• connecting elements and self-tapping screws;
• electric jigsaw or scissors for metal;
• screwdriver;
• tape measure, level and marker.

Before starting the assembly of the frame, markings are applied to the ceiling, along which guides and suspensions are later attached. It can be done with a pencil or marker directly on the ceiling or with stretched cords. The mesh size is chosen so that all drywall joints fall on the profiles.

Step 1. Guide profiles CD are attached along the perimeter of the walls so that their lower part is on the control line, which was drawn when the ceiling drop and the lowest corner were detected.

Step 2 U-shaped brackets or hangers are attached to the ceiling along the lines of the guides. Do this with the help of anchor dowel-nails.

Step 3 They lead the UD profile into the guides with the flat side down and expose them according to the drawn markings and fixed brackets. Check the horizontal level and fix the profiles in the brackets. The transverse guides are fixed using the “crab” system according to the markings.

Step 4 GKL sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws to the prepared frame. Joints of at least 2 mm are left between the sheets - it is easier to putty them to get an absolutely smooth surface. After fixing the drywall on the frame, the ceiling is obtained without drops, but with seams and caps from self-tapping screws. They need to be sanded to get a smooth surface.

Leveling and plastering drywall

For leveling, two types of mixtures are used: repair for sealing joints and finishing putty. Some manufacturers offer universal blends.

Required materials and tools:

• repair mix and finishing putty;
• primer on water based and roller;
• spatulas - narrow and wide;
• trowel or fine-grained skin;
• sickle ribbon.

Step 1. Prime the ceiling with a roller or brush, trying not to soak the top paper layer. Waiting for the primer to dry. Knead the repair compound for sealing drywall joints using a mixer. You should not immediately prepare a lot of composition - the period of its use usually does not exceed two hours.

Step 2 The seams between the sheets are glued with a sickle. Where the cut sheets are joined, it is necessary to chamfer the sheets at an angle of 45 degrees.

Step 3 Using a narrow spatula, the joints between the sheets are filled with a repair mixture, after which the excess is removed with a wide spatula and the putty is leveled over the sickle with it. The heads of the self-tapping screws are covered with a repair mixture using a narrow spatula with cross-shaped movements - first in one direction, then in the other.

Step 6 After the putty has completely dried, it is sanded and swept over, then a layer of finishing putty is applied over the entire surface of the ceiling. To do this, use a wide spatula. The layer of finishing putty should not exceed 2 mm.

Video - Installation of drywall on the ceiling

As you can see from the article, leveling the ceiling with your own hands is not so difficult. It is important to choose the right technology and materials, as well as follow the instructions and not neglect any of its stages. In this case, you will get a smooth and durable ceiling surface, on which any decorative finish will look advantageous.