Both the mixer and the electric drill are far from essential items. Not everyone can afford to keep both at home. But even if you can boast of having an electric drill at home, most often it is the most powerful kilowatt machine, which is convenient for drilling walls. But drilling radio boards with it or repairing shoes will be hard, isn't it? Therefore, I had the idea to make a special nozzle for the mixer, with which now you can not only cook an omelet, but also drill a hole in a hard-to-reach place.
The adapter for the drill is inserted into the socket of the “quick knife” nozzle. If you have a rubber joint between the mixer and the attachment, you will have to redo it too. For the effort that he is able to transmit is not enough even for the operation of a coffee grinder. A square is best for connecting, but a hexagon is also suitable.
The drawing shows the dimensions of the details of the nozzle for the MP-2E mixer manufactured by the Minsk Electrical Equipment Plant, but due to the similarity of all models of mixers, the correction will be quite insignificant. I took the cartridge from a hand drill. You should not count on drills with a diameter of more than 5 mm even when drilling wood (after all, the power of the mixer motor does not exceed 100 W), so if you have a choice, the cartridge should be chosen as small as possible.
The scheme for making a drill from a mixer with your own hands
Parts 3 and 4 require turning on a lathe; in the absence of a head of the required size for part 3, the hexagon groove will have to be milled. In the case of complete production of part 3, a slight improvement can be made, which is as follows. To exclude an additional friction surface between 3 and 4, make a selection for the hexagon with a slope of 5-6 degrees relative to the horizontal axis. This is necessary so that the head, sitting on the hexagon, engages with it when moving and is wedged by friction forces. In this case, there will be a small gap between the head and the sleeve, which will prevent additional heating of the assembly and the associated power loss.
Part 4 can be made from any structural steel, but if you can find a piece of polyethylene of the right size, the structure will only benefit. If structural steel is used, a through hole should be provided in the sleeve for shaft lubrication; the polyethylene sleeve should be lubricated with grease. Usually the chuck shaft is surface hardened and the MB thread should cut easily. The nozzle is assembled as follows. A sleeve is put on the chuck shaft, then the head is screwed on. The nozzle assembly is screwed to the mixer along the M3O thread.
The use of the attachment is also supported by the fact that the mixer, unlike most electric drills, has a smooth speed control, which creates additional convenience during work. By the way, maybe you have an old enlarger lying around? In the conditions of the Kodak victorious offensive, you will hardly need it already, and its tripod can be adapted for a drilling machine. A tripod with a gear rack from the Upa enlarger is especially convenient. The adjustment handwheel feeds the drill as smoothly as on a drilling machine. If you have a low-power drill "Master", you can place it on a tripod as well.
Video instruction - how to make a drill from a mixer
Proportions of masonry mortar
For bricklaying, mortars of grades M25, M50 and M75 are used.
Proportions sand to cement: M25 - 5:1
; M50 - 4:1
; M75 - 3:1
.
The amount of water is highly dependent on the moisture content of the sand, so "up to the desired viscosity"
Usually, in private construction, no one accurately measures these proportions, everything is by eye.
To improve the plasticity of the solution, "specialists from the people" recommend adding detergents from 50 to 100 g of liquid soap or powder per 5-6 buckets of the solution. → But I did not add, it was not clear how this supplement would manifest itself in the future..
Dry mixes sold in hardware stores are better only because they do not require additional stirring. At a cost, a solution from such mixtures is obtained two to three times more expensive than a home-made composition - sand plus cement. In addition, if you recalculate it by the number of bags, then they will have to move four times more by weight than the same cement. Sand can be brought in by dump truck.
Sand for mortar must be sifted without fail. Moreover, using a mesh from a shell bed for this is not the best option due to the large size of the cells.
Construction mixer for concrete
If masonry with seams of one or less centimeters is required, larger pebbles create problems during laying, preventing the brick from being leveled on the mortar.
I used a mesh of metal wires with a mesh of 8 mm, stretched over a wooden frame. The frame was placed at an angle, and the sand was thrown through it. Before that, I tried to stretch a glass fiber mesh on the same frame, alas, it stretched and broke after the first wheelbarrow of sand.
My concrete mixer
The proportion of cement to sand was taken approximately 1:4. Water was added by eye in such a way that the solution was not liquid, that is, it did not spread on a flat surface and at the same time was plastic enough, allowing the brick to be laid to be leveled.
The solution was mixed in a twenty-liter bucket from bituminous mastic, using a drill and a special nozzle. We did not have a concrete mixer at that time and it is not quite suitable for preparing a small amount of masonry mortar. If a bucket or two is required at a time, then the concrete mixer is more of a problem than it is efficient, because it must be washed after use.
When mixing the solution with a nozzle for a drill, the same is not all smooth. Neither a drill nor a hammer drill is designed for such a load. Heat up quickly and wear out much faster, but having tried to mix sand with cement in a similar way, I don’t want to return to the shovel at all. Still, the nozzle on the drill beats the mixture much better, and when kneading, you don’t get tired at all.
When using nozzles for stirring the solution, one must be prepared for the fact that this product will break quite quickly. Over the course of the season, the whisks in two nozzles were worn out and fell apart, and in two more, the attachments to the SDS cam broke off. They are not expensive, and given that they work in the sand as in sandpaper, this is not so scary. The burnt, in the end, Chinese drill was more frustrating, although of course we gave it a "cut" for the construction. The DVT 750 W perforator seemed to be somewhat more tenacious, although it also had to change the bearing and brushes.
In the end, I found some compromise using nozzles with a small diameter. Let them interfere longer, but the load on the drill is not so big, it is likely that the surviving hammer drill will last until the end of construction.
From the topic ⇒
Conclusion with a brick of the zero level of the tower
⇐ From topic
Raising the foundation line with a brick
During the implementation repair work very often it is required to use a wide variety of manual, automatic or semi-automatic operations: chiselling, drilling, polishing, grinding, cutting, welding, etc. It is known that there is a specialized tool for each repair operation.
It is not always necessary to perform these operations equally often: sometimes it happens that any repair operation occurs relatively rarely or even once. What to do then? Run and buy what you need construction tool for a one time use? Borrow from neighbors, acquaintances or friends "for a couple of days"? Of course, there is a desire to use the tool already in operation to replace the missing one.
The most common tool used in repair and construction works, is a perforator. This power tool is available to almost everyone who has encountered repairs at least once in their lives. On the other hand, one of the most rarely used tools today is construction mixer, intended for hashing of various construction and repair solutions. The reason for its rare use in repairs is a small, as a rule, amount of a solution (varnish, glue, etc.) stirred at a time, in which it is quite possible to do without mechanization: stir it manually.
However, there are cases when it is simply necessary to use electromechanical stirring: very viscous medium, large volume, harmfulness of the medium, large mass of one batch, specificity of the process (uniformity, very fast or very slow rotation of the shaft, a combination of them), short terms requiring high performance, etc.
Construction mixer - how to make a mixture of high quality?
In all of the above methods, it is with a perforator that they try to replace the mixer during mixing. How justified is this? Is the perforator capable of performing a function that is not characteristic of its main application? We will try to answer all these questions in this article.
As known, modern perforators capable of working in at least two modes: drilling and drilling with impact. It is also known that for drilling into a standard chuck of the type SDS+ an adapter (additional chuck) is inserted under the drills. Therefore, the nozzle for mixing from a mixer it won't be too hard to put it in. Further. Quite a few rotary hammers have a built-in mechanical gearbox that allows you to work at different speeds. Then, obviously, all the salt of the new function for the puncher is concentrated in its drive.
All manual hammer drills as well as mixers, they are equipped with a universal collector motor, the shaft rotation speed of which is controlled by reducing or increasing the supply voltage. Then the question comes down to the characteristics of these engines, the main of which are the maximum number of revolutions of the engine shaft, the power on the shaft and the torque on the shaft.
Consider the work of the perforator separately for two types of mixed media: low-viscosity and high-viscosity. To stir a low-viscosity solution, a small torque and a different shaft speed are required. It is known that single-speed hammers are controlled by the force of pulling the trigger, usually located in the handle of the power tool. Applying a different force of pressing the trigger, we smoothly change the speed of the shaft (spindle): with a weak pressure - low speed, and with a strong pressure - high up to the maximum.
The problem is that the speed lock, as a rule, only works when the trigger is fully pulled, that is, at maximum engine speed. When mixing, it is very inconvenient. The way out, obviously, is to work such a tool through a step-down transformer (you can use LATR), the power of which must exceed or be equal to perforator power consumption. In this case, the work of the perforator as a stirrer has every chance of success.
In addition, there are now models of rock drills with adjustable speed control, which can also be used as agitators. It should always be remembered that the lower the supply voltage of the hammer motor, the lower the efficiency of such a motor.
The situation is more complicated with highly viscous media. Their mixing usually requires low RPM and high torque. If the speed can be adjusted by connecting a step-down transformer to the perforator (as in the case of working with low-viscosity media described above), then this will not work with torque, because when the voltage supplied from the transformer decreases, the torque on the shaft drops along with the shaft revolutions (smooth characteristic) .
It follows from this that work through a transformer(at low voltages) is only beneficial when the torque of the rock drill exceeds the required torque to stir the media, which is not very common. Otherwise, the rotary hammer will need additional cooling (especially at low shaft speeds, at which the fan built into the engine does not create a more or less normal air flow to the collector of such an engine), otherwise the overheat protection will work (the engine temperature sensor will turn off the power of the rotary hammer) .
In addition to additional cooling, some other methods can be used: reducing the diameter of the working part of the nozzle (This is one of the most effective ways to reduce the required torque!), reducing the diameter of the container and / or the height of the stirred layer. The ideal option is a multi-speed rotary hammer. With it, you can work with viscous solutions at the first speed at low shaft speeds and at the second - with low viscosity at high speeds.
Consider perforator work in relation to high-speed mixing to obtain foamy solutions or fine suspensions and/or emulsions. The standard maximum work of the perforator is approximately 1000 - 2000 rpm, which is enough for most mixing in normal mode.
However, to get big turnovers with the help of such perforators without the use of external 
mechanical gearboxes is not possible, since the operation of the motor is limited by the supply voltage (220 V). For rock drills with built-in gearbox, the maximum shaft speed will be equal to the highest gear ratio and at the maximum supply voltage.
In this way, perforator can be used as a mixer. For slightly viscous media, an additional step-down transformer may be required, although this is not necessary. Highly viscous media may require additional motor cooling or more frequent agitation pauses than usual to cool the motor. For high-speed (very fast) mixing, exceeding the maximum speed of the hammer shaft, an additional external mechanical gearbox may be required.
Benefits of using a drill mixer for construction work
For the preparation of cement, paint, glue and other building mixtures in large volumes, nozzles on a drill for mixing the solution are best suited. They are a metal rod on which an impeller is fixed - a curved metal or plastic rod (corolla).
Before choosing drill mixer, you need to decide on its important parameters, which depend on the specifics of the planned work.
Main characteristics
- On the shank type should pay attention first. It depends on this characteristic whether the product you have chosen is suitable for your drill model. The most popular type of drill head mixer is the M14 type, like the Sparky 161475 mixer. Its main advantage is the rather easy change of the head when working with quick-drying or especially sticky mixtures.
How to stir building mixtures?
However, it should be remembered that a wrench of a suitable size is required to replace the nozzle. While another type of shank - hex - can be clamped with a conventional three-jaw chuck.
- Impeller material affects which substances can be mixed with a particular mixer attachment. Stirrers with impellers made of durable steel, such as Metabo 631963000, are recommended for working with heavy mortars: cement, putty, insulating materials, etc. Mixers with impellers made of plastic, such as, will perfectly handle the preparation of more light solutions, such as paints. In addition, the plastic will not damage or scratch the walls of the container in which the mixing takes place.
- Agitator length affects the depth of the solution that will be mixed with a specific nozzle. Manufacturers produce snaps of different lengths. However, 400 mm, for example, Enkor 27406, and 600 mm, like y, are considered standard sizes. But the Profi for drills FIT IT 04260 has a length of 600 mm and is suitable for large volumes of mixtures.
- Diameter - the processing time of the entire volume depends on it: the larger the diameter, the faster the mixture will be stirred. Our website presents a wide range of models with a whisk diameter for a drill from 60 mm, like Enkor 27414, to 220 mm, like the EXPERT nozzle for mixers ZMRN-2-220.
I made a site about homemade products myself. On our website you will find homemade products, clear instructions will help you to assemble and use the homemade product you have chosen without any problems at home or at work.
DIY mixer drill
Both the mixer and the electric drill are far from essential items. Not everyone can afford to keep both at home. But even if you can boast of having an electric drill at home, most often it is the most powerful kilowatt machine, which is convenient for drilling walls. But drilling radio boards with it or repairing shoes will be hard, isn't it? Therefore, I had the idea to make a special nozzle for the mixer, with which now you can not only cook an omelet, but also drill a hole in a hard-to-reach place.
The adapter for the drill is inserted into the socket of the “quick knife” nozzle. If you have a rubber joint between the mixer and the attachment, you will have to redo it too. For the effort that he is able to transmit is not enough even for the operation of a coffee grinder. A square is best for connecting, but a hexagon is also suitable.
The drawing shows the dimensions of the details of the nozzle for the MP-2E mixer manufactured by the Minsk Electrical Equipment Plant, but due to the similarity of all models of mixers, the correction will be quite insignificant. I took the cartridge from a hand drill. You should not count on drills with a diameter of more than 5 mm even when drilling wood (after all, the power of the mixer motor does not exceed 100 W), so if you have a choice, the cartridge should be chosen as small as possible.
The scheme for making a drill from a mixer with your own hands
Parts 3 and 4 require turning on a lathe; in the absence of a head of the required size for part 3, the hexagon groove will have to be milled. In the case of complete production of part 3, a slight improvement can be made, which is as follows. To exclude an additional friction surface between 3 and 4, make a selection for the hexagon with a slope of 5-6 degrees relative to the horizontal axis. This is necessary so that the head, sitting on the hexagon, engages with it when moving and is wedged by friction forces. In this case, there will be a small gap between the head and the sleeve, which will prevent additional heating of the assembly and the associated power loss.
Part 4 can be made from any structural steel, but if you can find a piece of polyethylene of the right size, the structure will only benefit. If structural steel is used, a through hole should be provided in the sleeve for shaft lubrication; the polyethylene sleeve should be lubricated with grease. Usually the chuck shaft is surface hardened and the MB thread should cut easily. The nozzle is assembled as follows. A sleeve is put on the chuck shaft, then the head is screwed on.
Choosing a drill mixer
The nozzle assembly is screwed to the mixer along the M3O thread.
The use of the attachment is also supported by the fact that the mixer, unlike most electric drills, has a smooth speed control, which creates additional convenience during work. By the way, maybe you have an old enlarger lying around? In the conditions of the Kodak victorious offensive, you will hardly need it already, and its tripod can be adapted for a drilling machine. A tripod with a gear rack from the Upa enlarger is especially convenient. The adjustment handwheel feeds the drill as smoothly as on a drilling machine. If you have a low-power drill "Master", you can place it on a tripod as well.
Video instruction - how to make a drill out of a mixer
Section: Various homemade products Date of publication: 17-03-2012, 18:49
In the bins of most average owners. For many, the tool just gathers dust in the closet. Some regularly use it, painstakingly drilling holes, screwing shelves and screwing bolts. And only the most creative and out-of-the-box thinking minds use the drill for other purposes. Just think - they chop wood with a tool and replace most household appliances with a household drill, spending money on more interesting needs and striking with their imagination!
Read the article and find out how to pass for not only a homely, but also a resourceful owner. The task is made easier by the fact that the necessary supplies are probably at your fingertips, and the implementation of great ideas will not take (in some cases) even 10 minutes.
A drill is like a mixer - when the impossible is possible!
It would seem - what unites these two different devices? Drilling, as a rule, is done by men, but is in the competence of women. Let's look under the case, and everything will be resolved: inside both devices there are brushes of the electric motor, set in motion by the pressed start button. They turn the rotor of the engine, and it transmits the torque to the gearbox, which sets in motion a cartridge with a drill, like a drill, or "corollas" like a kitchen mixer.
Converting a drill into a kitchen assistant will take you no more than 5 minutes and will be especially relevant when it is out of order.
Electric meat grinder from a drill - it turns out, it’s quite real
It would seem that a strange desire - to make a drill - in some cases gives unexpected results. So, the situation can be saved when the knives of the kitchen unit are completely blunt and threaten to ruin the party with homemade cutlets. Now you will learn how to make a meat grinder from a drill: guests will praise the hostess for cutlets, and her husband for resourcefulness.
For the craftsman, everything is clear. You need to prepare the following items:
- manual old meat grinder (precisely manual, with which it was so long and hard to work!);
- electric drill;
- metal bolt with a hexagonal top. The bolt must be without a cap.
What is even more surprising: many build such equipment specifically before the start of conservation. According to reviews, she does a great job with tomato juice: so quickly that the assistants do not have time to wash and cut the tomatoes!
How to chop wood with a drill? Just!
It turns out that with the help of a construction tool you can do just that! Moreover, such chopping of firewood is no worse than the usual way, with an ax - this is what experienced householders say. What needs to be prepared for this? In addition to a drill - almost nothing, except perhaps.
Having set a moderate number of revolutions (a large number of them will not speed up the process, but will lead to a lot of chips flying in all directions), we proceed to the most important thing:
- We install the log so that the cone is located right in its center, perpendicular to the log - the splitting will be quick and hassle-free.
- Gently rotate it three times in one direction, then in the other.
Advice:since you will be chopping wood at low speeds, a low-power drill is enough, like an inexpensive one weighing 1.3 kilograms.
They say that a home-made device is ideal for apple firewood with a diameter of 10-12 cm, and is also used for hardwood firewood.
A powerful fan from a drill is a good option in the heat
If you want to seriously get confused, make a fan with your own hands. Here's what you need.
Hello to all do-it-yourselfers and home craftsmen!
In my homemade work, I constantly have to deal with painting products with various paints, stains, varnishes, etc. In addition, on the farm, it is often necessary to carry out minor repairs associated with painting various surfaces (mainly wooden).
Paints for this, as a rule, do not need very much, so the most popular containers that I use are 1-2 liter cans, no more.
Naturally, before use, any paint, impregnation or varnish must be thoroughly mixed, or even add a solvent or white spirit, for a more liquid consistency.
I used to mix the paint by hand, but recently I decided to make a simple stirrer for this purpose from a single piece of strong steel wire.
At the same time, since it is mainly necessary to mix paints or varnishes directly in cans, the maximum diameter of the working part of such a stirrer should be such that it freely passes into the narrowest can (usually a liter can).
To make such a stirrer, I needed
- a piece of steel wire with a diameter of 3 mm and a length of approximately 60 cm,
- and from the tool: a hammer with an anvil, pliers and a file with a fine notch.
Mixer manufacturing process
First, I straightened the wire with a hammer, and at the same time slightly strengthened it.
And then he began to manufacture the stirrer, bending the wire with pliers from side to side.
This process took about 15 minutes, and along the way I had to make corrections several times, aligning the wire with pliers and a hammer, and, in the end, this is what I got.
This stirrer had to be slightly balanced, for which I put it on the edge of the workbench, and slightly twisting the fingers of my left hand, I watched in what position it stops.
Ideally, neither side should outweigh.
All the ends of the wire, I rounded with a file.
And the lower part is still slightly bent up so that it does not touch the bottom of the cans of paint.
Thus, the mixer was ready, but just in case, I decided to make another protective casing for the drill chuck so that during mixing it would not accidentally splash with paint.
To do this, I needed a piece of the top of a liter plastic bottle with a cap, as well as an electric drill with a drill with a diameter of 2.7 mm, and scissors.
In the center of the lid, I drilled a hole with a diameter of 2.7 mm.
And put the stirrer shank in there. The cover should move along the shank rather tightly.
After that, it remains only to cut out a casing of a suitable size from the top of the plastic bottle.
And screw it into the lid.
And now my mixer is ready!
Now you can clamp it into a drill.
After that, be sure to slide the casing onto the drill chuck.
And now you can mix the paint.
By the way, the length of this stirrer is ideal for both liter and 2-2.5 liter jars.
After work, you need to clean the mixer from the paint, using a rag soaked in gasoline or solvent.
You can store this mixer in a hanging state, for example, hanging it on a carnation like this.
I must say that this mixer proved to be quite good at work, since it mixes the paint quickly enough and at the same time with high quality.
However, such a stirrer still has limitations. Since it is not so strong and rigid, it is suitable for mixing mostly liquid paints or varnishes. Also, when working with this mixer, you should not use too high a drill chuck speed, otherwise the mixer may bend.
But in principle, since I deal mainly with fairly liquid paints and varnishes, such a stirrer suits me perfectly.
Well, that's all for me! Bye everyone, good luck, and convenient and productive work on homemade products!
We will need from materials and tools:
1. Aluminum thick wire (In my case - 8mm)
2. Vise.
3. Large pliers or pliers.
4. Pipe ("gas") wrench.
5. "Bulgarian", chisel, hacksaw, or any other cutting tool to cut the wire.
I am currently building an extension to my house. Before erecting the roof of the extension, I decided to cultivate the pediment of the house, to which, in fact, the extension will adjoin. It turned out that the pediment needed to be painted. Since it was built of brick, I decided to do this with the help of a compressor and a spray gun, because it is quite troublesome to paint over deep masonry joints with a roller. I decided to use an acrylic-based facade water-dispersion paint. I specially went to the construction market to buy two things - the actual paint and a mixer, which, holding it in a drill, can stir this paint when water is added to it. (For this method of application, the paint must be liquid). Arriving at the market, I chose the paint, bought it and drove off to the site.... I forgot about the mixer...
It turned out that I forgot not only about the mixer, but also about the primer - the surface to be painted must first be treated with a deep-penetrating primer ....
Well... I had to go back. Again the construction market... I chose a primer and left. Having changed clothes and prepared the compressor, I remembered ..... that I forgot about the mixer again !!!)))))
What to do?.. Don't stir a twenty-liter bucket of paint by hand!... After thinking for a minute, I decided to get by with "improvised means". In the shed I found these pieces of thick aluminum wire:
We measure the length equal to the depth of the paint bucket, plus 10 centimeters, clamp it in a vise and bend it 90 degrees:
After that, we make another bend:
Further, grabbing with a pipe wrench (the vise is already too wide))), with the help of pliers we twist the wire into a spiral. I sawed off the excess with a grinder. (I could not photograph this process, because my hands were busy)))).
In the end, we got a great mixer, and did not have to spend money ...