Choosing flooring for an apartment should be based on financial capabilities and personal preferences. When purchasing a new or restoring an old home, each of us sees the process of repairing a house in a different way. Some approach radically, and decide to re-equip the entire living space, others intend to get by with an easy cosmetic repairs. If you see that more than 30 percent of the premises are in need of repair, then it is better to choose a major type of restoration of an apartment or house. After all, the visible is only part of what needs to be done. Usually the most severe damage is hidden from the naked eye.

How to start repairing floors in an apartment: preparatory work

When renovating a room, it is always necessary first of all to analyze the condition of the floors, walls and ceiling. These main structural elements of your home are fundamental, and the condition of your entire home depends on their integrity.

Repair of floors in the apartment, the options for which are presented below, must be started with overhaul throughout the house. Only in this way the repair that you started will make sense, and an excellent result.

The first step is to level the floors in the apartment, for example, using a self-leveling mixture

You should not start repairing the floors in the apartment if you do not have enough time and money. This type of repair is highly costly, and if halfway through it turns out that you have run out of money, then your whole family will be jumping over logs and bags of cement for a long time. Do-it-yourself repairs will help save a lot of money. But for it to be carried out correctly, you need to develop a plan in which all stages of repair work should be clearly defined.

Stages of repairing floors in an apartment:

1. Before starting any repair, it is necessary to make a sketch of the finished object. Take a pencil, a sheet of paper and a tape measure, draw a surface, and put on it whatever you want to do next.
2. According to your visions, delimit the space into zones. Determine where what finishing material you will apply.
3. Arrange the future or already existing furniture in the order in which it will stand.
4. Number the stages of construction work with numbers. They begin with the dismantling of old surfaces, in the middle of the way you have a replacement of communications, and the repair ends with laying the floor.
5. Make a budget.

Once again, weigh your financial capabilities and determination, read the reviews, these types of work are not cheap. If you decide to make repairs with your own hands, then the advice of a specialist, or advice from a professional, will not be superfluous for you.

Existing types of floors in the apartment: 10 installation options

The floor is the upper part of the overlap between the floors of an apartment building or a house and the ground. The quality of the floors greatly affects the entire structure of the building; a well-made house can serve for decades without requiring replacement or repair.

Types of floors in the apartment are different. They differ in the type of bases for the floor and the floor covering.

As a basis for floor covering better to use concrete floor

Also, the floor has several functions that we sometimes don’t even think about, believing that its main task is to provide us with convenient movement around the apartment. The floor must provide soundproofing, thermal insulation, moisture resistance, load-bearing function and, of course, aesthetic appearance.

Types of floors that exist:

• Wooden beams can be used as the basis for the floor;
• Reinforced concrete beams are also suitable for these purposes;
• In modern buildings for the arrangement of beams, a metal profile can be laid;
• For further laying of the floor covering, the space between the beams is poured cement screed, semi-dry or dry;
• As a floor covering, you can lay linoleum;
• The wooden floor will be warm and environmentally friendly;
• Properly installed parquet or laminate flooring is often used in modern designs;
• Sometimes builders use PVC tiles;
• For the arrangement of floors in the corridor or kitchen, you can use ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware;

In elite houses, it is customary to use marble or granite tiles for arranging the floor in problem rooms.

Which flooring in the apartment is better: what to choose

The specificity of buildings involves the use of various building materials. Sometimes where applicable wooden planks for the floor, it is completely impossible to equip the floor with ceramic tiles. To change building materials one for another, it is necessary to completely change the structure of the floors.

What is the best flooring for an apartment? What do professionals think about this? Like all existing species flooring to choose your own?

Laminate flooring fits well into any interior design thanks to a wide variety of colors.

To understand this problem, and make a choice, it is necessary to carefully study the technical characteristics of all types of flooring available in nature.

Properties and characteristics of types of flooring:

• Board. In most cases, this is a planed, tongue-and-groove board, 25-45 mm thick, adapted for laying on the floor. Such a floor provides heat and sound insulation and is the most environmentally friendly of all types of floors.
• Parquet. The principle and technical characteristics of such a floor correspond to the floor of the boards. The only difference is the size of the boards. Due to the fact that the size of the boards may not be large, they can be made from valuable breeds wood, which makes the floor better and more durable.
• Laminate is very similar in appearance and laying to parquet, but is made of four-layer fiberboard.
• Linoleum. The most common finishing material. It is easy to install, easy to care for, its quality is constantly being improved. Apartment owners willingly use this finishing material in their premises.

Tiles of all kinds are used mainly in the kitchen, bathroom, toilet and hallway. Its use is due to its special strength and water resistance.

We figure out which floor is better to do in the apartment

V modern apartments The main theme of the renovation is energy saving. To do this, their owners take a number of measures that ensure a delay in the heat in the apartment.

What floor is better to do in the apartment, so that it is warmer and more economical. Experts recommend equipping types of floors where there is space between the base of the floor and the floor covering.

If desired, you can combine flooring, for example, tiles with laminate

Underfloor heating allows you to save from 25 to 50 percent of the heat in the house thanks to the underfloor heating system. You can equip it even on your own, the main thing is to foresee it in advance, even before the start of the overhaul of the floor.

Types of floor heating systems:

• Water heating;
• Electric heating;
• Infrared heating.

Exactly infrared system heating is the highest quality, affordable and practical for warming houses in apartments. It is suitable for almost any floor covering.

Wooden floors in the apartment: material features

Everything is given to the ecological cleanliness of food, clothing and building materials. greater value. And not in vain. The objects that surround us, as well as the food we eat, greatly affect our health. That is why modern designers and homeowners are increasingly using wood for flooring.

Floors in an apartment made of wood are again rising in the ranking among the materials for creating flooring. Designers make up a variety of projects, the main idea of ​​which is precisely wooden floors.

To extend the life of a wooden floor, it needs to be painted.

Not in vain the most expensive styles interior design implies the presence of only wooden floors. V modern world design fashion, such a floor indicates good well-being, financial stability and excellent taste of the owner of the house.

Advantages of wooden floors:

• Made from environmentally friendly natural material;
• They have an excellent aesthetic appearance;
• Practical and durable;
• Even small children can easily walk on such a floor with bare feet;
• Easy to maintain and repair;
• It is not difficult to do the installation by hand,

There are several types of wood flooring. Parquet and parquet board currently considered the most expensive wooden types. A simpler option is a regular grooved board.

Bulk coating on the floor in the room: fashion trends

Laying parquet or laying parquet slabs on a concrete floor is now not difficult for many, just like laying cheaper options. The simplest, which will cost the least, is to make flooring from linoleum or to cover the floor with laminate. But the design of houses in this way is no longer fashionable.

Bulk coating is great for rooms made in modern or high-tech style

Covering the floor in the room of the bulk plan will not cost you cheap, but finishing with their use will make everyone “gasp”.

If you are building a house from scratch and you want it to be beautiful, and unusual finishing works to make it exclusive, try a new way that flooring is now covered - self-leveling.

Self-leveling floors are made from:

• polyurethane;
• Epoxy urethane resin;
• methyl methacrylate;
• Cement-polyurethane mixture.

The most extravagant and unusual are self-leveling floors made of polyurethane and epoxy resins.

Materials: what to make the floors in the apartment from (video)

A huge number of materials for arranging the floor give you a choice. For different rooms of the house, you can choose a different coating, which will ensure more reliable functionality of the premises. Your main task is to properly perform the work on the construction and finishing of floors.

Updating or replacing an old, worn floor in an apartment is one of the most time-consuming operations in the overall renovation process. Just imagining the scale and cost of the future, many homeowners very often refuse to repair the floors, limiting themselves only to changing the decorative coating on them. But time takes its toll, and sooner or later the moment comes when it becomes simply impossible to delay such work.

In this case, it is not at all necessary to immediately look for a team of craftsmen - especially since in such a service sector one can often meet frank "hacks". As a result, everything can result in a completely unnecessary waste of time, nerves and money with a low-quality result. Why not try doing it yourself? If the owner has certain skills in general construction work, and if you repair the floor in the apartment with your own hands in stages, in compliance with the recommended technological rules, then everything should work out!

The stages of repair, of course, depend on the type of floors, their initial condition, the purpose of the premises in which the work is being carried out, such as finish coat. In this publication, several of the most common options will be considered.

Since the owner of the apartment is thinking about repairing the floor, then, most likely, there are motivating reasons for this, unless, of course, this is a cosmetic replacement of the coating due to another whim of the wife. Therefore, first you need to identify and clearly formulate problems - the whole scale of further preparatory and repair work will depend on this.

This publication is about a city apartment, and in the vast majority of multi-storey buildings, any floor has a base in the form of a reinforced concrete floor slab. But here the further design can already differ significantly. The floor can be arranged on logs fixed to the base, or laid directly on concrete screed.

• The wooden floor on the logs usually begins to show its defects with a creak, instability of the coating - the floorboards “play” underfoot, the appearance bad smell rot, formation and gradual expansion of cracks. Even worse, if suddenly one of the boards cracks or its fragment falls down.

The dilapidated wooden floor reminds of itself with a creak and "playing" boards

• The old screed, on which the coating is laid, from “old age” can also begin to present surprises, especially if it was once filled with poor quality. So, the appearance of obvious squeaks and rustling from sand or small pebbles, the “floundering” of the screed, the appearance of washed out areas of the surface, the violation of the evenness of the finish coating, and sometimes the obvious instability of the whole large fragment are also not ruled out.

In any case, if there are obvious defects, remove the old coating.

Removing the old coating

• All furniture will need to be removed from the room, completely freeing it for further work. If repairs are not carried out in the entire apartment at once, but from room to room, it will be necessary to provide protection against the spread of dust, for example, by covering the entrance with a thick curtain polyethylene film or a frequently moistened cloth, and covering the gap under the door with a roller of a wet rag. True, the full effectiveness of such a method is very doubtful, and the best way nevertheless - to provide for the resettlement of family members for the duration of the repair. However, a dust barrier is necessary in any case.
• Next, the old baseboards are removed. Do this carefully so as not to damage the bottom of the walls to which they are attached. If the plinths are supposed to be used further, then they are numbered according to their location and temporarily removed.

If someone has not come across this case before, then we can remind you that the skirting boards are attached to the wall, and not to the floor surface, that is, you need to correctly direct the lever force. It will be easier if the skirting boards are fixed on self-tapping screws or on special brackets.

The next step is actually removing the old coating. There are several options here:

A. If the floor is covered with some roll material, then they hook it on one of the sides and try to carefully roll it into a roll - it will be easier to take it out. In the event that the coating (for example, linoleum or carpet) was once laid without glue, directly on a concrete screed, this will not be difficult to do. You can first, to facilitate the action, make parallel cuts with a sharp construction knife, thereby dividing the entire canvas into several narrower tapes.

However, there are often situations in which old stuff departs along with the layers of the exfoliated screed. Then you will have to remove it fragmentarily and immediately take it out of the room along with pieces of concrete so that this construction debris does not interfere with further work.

It happens that once high-quality glued linoleum, when removed, begins to delaminate itself, leaving dried layers on the screed. In this case, you will have to work with a scraper (spatula), warming up these areas with a building hair dryer or moistening the old adhesive layer with a floor detergent solution.

B. More trouble can deliver the old "playing" parquet. If it is of no value, then its dies are sequentially removed, immediately loaded into bags, which are taken out as they are filled. If once the parquet was glued to bituminous mastic or organic-based glue, then removing individual dice or even whole fragments can be difficult. The "recipe" is the same - a scraper, a chisel and heating with a hair dryer.

IN. To remove the old tile, it is most convenient to use a puncher switched to chiseling mode with a chisel-shovel installed. If such a tool is not available, then everything is done manually, using a hammer and chisel.

G. When stripping a plank floor, the hardest part is probably picking up and separating the first floorboard. Further, when it will be possible to freely start the lever, the work will go faster. For work, you will need a nail puller with a long lever handle, a hammer, and pliers. You need to try to take out the nails carefully, without destroying the boards, since, quite possibly, this material will still serve for a new flooring after repairs or for making logs.

If the old coating was fastened with screws (self-tapping screws), then you can try to dismantle it with a screwdriver.

Well, if the boardwalk is no longer of any value, then it will be most convenient to make cuts using a manual vertical circular (carefully and prudently so as not to catch concrete base, do not damage the logs and do not “run into” a nail). After such a separation of long floorboards, their removal will be an easy task.

Is it worth removing the entire plank flooring if obvious defects were observed only in certain areas, and there are no plans to replace it with a different type of surface finish? Of course, you can limit yourself to only partial repairs - the replacement of worn or deteriorated parts. But experts unanimously advise - shoot everything completely. There is no guarantee that if the decay process manifested itself in one area of ​​​​the floor, then it will not show itself in another in a year, or even earlier. It will be cheaper to renew the base and re-lay the floor, even using old material, than to return to such repairs again after a short period.

Foundation audit

After the floor covering is removed, it is necessary to carefully examine the base.

• If logs remain on the floor, and it is planned to re-lay the boardwalk, then you should carefully check the condition of these load-bearing elements and the supports on which they are installed. Log beams should not have areas of decomposition, rottenness, fungus damage - such parts are subject to mandatory replacement. Each lag is checked under load - it should not hang out, bend, creak, etc. If necessary, update the linings that hold the guide at the desired height.

If the state of the lag does not cause concern, then after a thorough cleaning in the spaces between them it will be possible to lay a new coating. Perhaps most old floorboards are fine for this. After such a bulkhead, the floor will stop creaking and gain the necessary stability. If required, thermal insulation material can be laid between the lags, which will also take on the role of a sound insulator.

However, on an old wooden floor, very often the logs themselves are quite worn out, and their repair is impossible or does not guarantee durability. In this case, they will have to be dismantled in order to subsequently install new ones. When removing the lag, remember that they can be firmly attached to the base base. It is necessary to exercise accuracy and discretion in order to prevent a strong destruction of the concrete base and not add unnecessary worries to restore it.

After removing the lag, the most thorough cleaning of the base of the floor is carried out so that you can proceed to the next steps.

In the event that, after removing the old topcoat, a concrete screed opens under it, it is most carefully examined. It must be assumed that the concrete is strong in itself, and repair of such a surface is optional.

The screed must be tapped - this will help to reveal areas of its delamination, which must be removed to a “healthy” base. The surface is checked for the presence of loose places, those where, due to a violation of the pouring technology, the solution did not gain strength or was eroded due to moisture. These areas also need to be cleaned.

It should not be left on the surface of large cracks - from here the process of destructuring of the base may continue. Slots and cracks lie cutting in breadth and depth of at least 10 - 15 mm, for subsequent repair.

Sometimes, after removing unstable sections of concrete, a generally unsightly picture opens up, such as, for example, as shown in the photograph. However, it is quite repairable.

After removing defective areas and cutting cracks, a thorough cleaning is carried out. It is best to use a powerful construction vacuum cleaner- by other means it is extremely difficult to qualitatively clean the surface and the resulting cavities from small debris and dust.

Sometimes you have to resort to the complete dismantling of the entire screed to the floor slab. This can be caused by the extremely low quality of the coating, which is impractical to repair, but it is better to refill completely. Often, mold or fungus finds a “shelter” in a screed in damp rooms. Another option is when the floors require additional insulation and sound insulation, and the height of the ceilings and the dimensions of the doorways in the apartment will not allow raising the level of coverage (taking into account the thermal insulation layer and finishing). The same measure is resorted to when it is planned to make a wooden floor on logs instead of thin coatings.

A difficult, but often simply necessary operation is the complete removal of the old screed

Certainly the process complete dismantling screeds with a jacking tool - very tiring, noisy and dusty, but no other way has yet been invented. This requires some care not to damage concrete slab overlap. The screed is cut off in separate pieces, which are immediately raked to the side with a shovel and packed in bags for export. It is not recommended to use even small fragments as a material for filling a new solution, since they will not enhance, but, on the contrary, worsen the quality.

After removing the old screed, a thorough cleaning of the surface is carried out - as described above.

Base surface repair

What was the floor was not planned in the future to the flooring, the concrete base under it must be put in order. So, poorly sealed seams between floor slabs, cracks along the perimeter of walls, potholes or cavities, etc. can be exposed.

Such repairs are necessary even if it is planned to fill a new screed. The solution may not penetrate into these flaws, there will be air cavities that reduce the solidity of the coating and become the starting point for the destruction of the screed. This is all the more important and mandatory if the screed will be poured onto a separating layer or onto waterproofing film(floating screed).

All surface defects must be thoroughly cleaned, if necessary (for example, slab joints) cut, and then remove even the smallest crumbs and dust with a vacuum cleaner.

The next step, the surface is carefully, at least twice, primed with the composition deep penetration, which is designed specifically for concrete.

Such treatment will significantly strengthen the surface, which is especially important when it is loose, increase the hydrophobic qualities, reduce the absorbency of concrete, and improve adhesion with repair compounds. They proceed to further work after the last applied layer of soil is completely absorbed and dried.

As a repair composition, you can use a conventional cement-sand mortar. However, it dries and gains the necessary strength for a long time, and it is better not to spare money for special repair compounds, also on a cement or epoxy basis.

The primed imperfections of the surfaces are filled as densely as possible with a repair compound, compared with the general level of the floor. To do this, you can use a regular spatula. Some repair compounds are sold in plastic tubes, and it will be more convenient to apply them using a construction syringe or a special “gun”.

If the defect is large in volume, then in some cases you can resort to filling it mounting foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off, and then this area is brought to the general surface level with a repair staff.

Repair "patches" are given time to completely solidify, in accordance with their instructions, after which you can trim the surface with sandpaper wrapped on a bar. Then it is recommended to walk again over the entire surface with a primer. If an increased absorption of the composition is noted at the repair sites, then primed twice in these areas.

After the soil has dried, the surface can be considered ready for further work.

Leveling screed

If the old screed or wooden floor was removed and the floor slab opened, then most likely its level is very far from the horizontal. The house shrunk over time, and even during its construction many years ago, builders could not really care about the strictly adjusted level of floors. So, what kind of floor was not planned to be done further, it is recommended to strengthen the base and at the same time level it with a screed. The thickness of this poured layer must be at least 30 mm at its highest point.

First of all, it is necessary to determine the magnitude of the difference, that is, to identify the peak, highest and lowest points of the surface and “break through” the zero level line. A system of beacons will be set at this mark.

To fill the screed, you can use the usual cement-sand mortar, which is prepared right at the place of work. Usually they proceed from the proportion of three parts of sand to one of M-400 cement - this ratio gives an optimal surface in terms of strength and wear resistance, on which any of their existing floor coverings can then be mounted.

Those novice builders who do not want to get involved in self-proportioning can be recommended to use ready-made building dry mixes. Their composition is already optimized for the screed, and it remains only to properly close it with water, in accordance with the attached instructions.

How many materials will be needed in one case or another? It all depends on the level of height difference at the extreme points, the planned minimum thickness screeds, area of ​​the room, features of the solution.

Usually, the packaging of dry building mixtures indicates their normalized consumption in kilograms per 1 square meter area to be poured with a layer thickness of 10 mm. Based on this, it is possible, by simple calculations, to determine the required amount of material.

To make things easier for readers, here is a calculator that allows you to quickly and accurately make such calculations:

Calculator for calculating the amount of dry mortar for screed

Room length, m

Room width, m

Height difference, mm

Screed thickness, mm

Indicate the passport value of the average consumption of the selected dry mix (kg per m² with a pouring thickness of 10 mm)

Average consumption, kg/m²/10 mm

For calculation cement-sand mortar, manufactured independently, come from several other positions. The volumetric ratios of the components and their density are important here. In order not to bore the reader with formulas, a calculation calculator is also attached for this case:

Calculator for calculating the amount of cement and sand for preparing a concrete mortar for screed

Enter the requested values ​​and click the "CALCULATE" button

Specify the parameters of the room: its length and width (in meters), and the level difference between the highest and lowest points of the floor (in millimeters)

Room length, m

Room width, m

Height difference, mm

Specify the planned thickness of the screed

Screed thickness, mm

Convert to meters

After pouring the leveling screed, it is given time to fully mature and gain strength. After that, you can proceed to the arrangement of the selected type of floors.

Which floor is best for the premises of the apartment?

There are many options for finishing floors in the apartment. The most common are natural wood - massive board, parquet or cork, linoleum, laminate, carpet, ceramic tiles.

wooden floors

They are rightly considered the most "comfortable" and cleanest in terms of ecology. They are mounted on logs, between which you can freely place insulating and noise-absorbing material - this will only add comfort to the floors. The coating itself can be laid directly on the logs, or, for example, parquet - on plywood mounted on the logs.

• Wooden floors are applicable in any of the living rooms.
• With some caution, they should be used in the kitchen - the abundant smells characteristic of this room can be absorbed into the wood and become intrusive or even sharply unpleasant over time.
• Wooden flooring for a bathroom or bathroom is not suitable - due to the high probability of water getting on it.
• The hallway is also not the best place for a wooden floor. Firstly, due to the increased intensity of movement in it in street shoes, this leads to rapid abrasion of wood. Secondly, the level of humidity here can also be increased. And thirdly, there may be difficulties with installing the coating on the logs - this can be prevented by the level of the floor in the entrance and the location of the front door.

One of the most difficult operations when installing a wooden floor is the installation of a lag system. They must be strong and stable, and their level must be brought perfectly into a horizontal plane.

For lag, quality is most often used wooden beam. There are a lot of ways of mounting and setting the log horizontally, from the simplest ones with placing bars or pieces of plywood under them, to using adjustable supports or various brackets.

How are wooden floors installed?

Almost always the first step. Then this base can be immediately carried out, or plywood can be laid. But plywood will already become the basis for many other coatings. In particular, it is convenient for her. All these questions are covered in detail on the pages of our portal.

Laminate

This type of coating, made from wood-polymer composite, has gained immense popularity over the past 10 ÷ 15 years. Such floors surprisingly accurately imitate natural materials but more affordable. And some types of laminate are significantly superior to wood in terms of wear resistance, moisture resistance and service life.

The disadvantages include the fact that wood-based composites are still made using phenol-formaldehyde resins. Therefore, when choosing, special attention should be paid to the environmental class of the material. It is considered permissible to emit formaldehydes no more than 0.01 mg, and phenol - 0.003 mg. Such types belong to class E1, and they can be laid in any residential premises. Classes E2 and E3 are categorically not suitable for bedrooms and children's rooms.

Choice of laminate

In addition to indicators of environmental friendliness, the laminate is subdivided according to several indicators, and not in the same degree suitable for various rooms.

For quality flooring laminated coating an almost perfectly level base is required. In this case, plywood or OSB sheets mounted on logs or directly on a concrete screed are ideal.

Video: one of the interesting ways to level the floor with plywood without using a log

It is possible to lay a laminated floor on a concrete base using special polyethylene foam underlays. However, the evenness of a conventional screed, made by hand on the beacons, may not be enough - the coating will soon begin to creak. It is best to pour a self-leveling floor under the laminate - then the tightness of the panels to the surface over the entire area will be ensured.

Self-levelling floor - the solution to many problems!

Overwhelming majority modern coatings floor requires a perfectly leveled surface. This can be achieved by filling . All the nuances of performing such work are detailed in a separate publication of our portal.

Linoleum

Despite the emergence of new types of coatings, linoleum does not give up its leading position. This is due to its relatively low cost and the ability to carry out laying on their own.

Linoleum - the material is not without flaws, but quite suitable for an apartment

Modern types of linoleums are distinguished by high wear resistance, water resistance, a rich variety of decorative designs. This material has become more favorable from an environmental point of view. The coating can vary in thickness and material of manufacture, be on a soft foam, fabric or insulated base, and be produced in rolls of various widths.

Linoleum, with the right choice, can be suitable for any type of room, with the possible exception of the bathroom. The requirements for the base are almost the same as for the laminate - one must be perfectly even, since all defects will necessarily appear through the plastic material over time.

What to do if there is a desire to cover the floor with linoleum?

First of all, you need to navigate the classification of the material in order to be able to optimally suit specific operating conditions. And the second is to know the technological ones in order to cope with this on your own. About all this - on the pages of our portal.

carpet

This coverage was very popular not so long ago, but gradually the number of its supporters has decreased significantly due to characteristic flaws material.

Carpet: at first beautiful, but in general - impractical

While the carpet is new, it looks very advantageous, it is pleasant to walk on it - the surface is always warm and soft. However, even in the quality material quite quickly this “period of youth” ends - the pile is wrinkled, rubbed, loses its color. It is very difficult to remove an accidentally placed stain from such a coating. But the main thing is that dust inevitably accumulates among the villi, and a powerful vacuum cleaner is required to clean it out.

It would seem that - perfect solution for a children's room, especially since there are a lot of coatings on sale with very interesting design. But the softness and warmth of the coating does not compensate for the increased risk of a child developing allergic reactions or even chronic respiratory disorders. For children, the best choice is a coating that can often be put in order with wet cleaning. For the same reason, this material is not particularly suitable for an adult bedroom.

The carpet is not suitable for walk-through rooms either - a path will be “trodden” on it very soon, and the pile will be clogged with dirt and dust brought on shoes from the street.

The only place where it can be applied with a certain degree of caution is the living room. But even in this case, frequent cleaning with a vacuum cleaner cannot be avoided.

And the use of carpet in apartments where pets are kept is almost completely excluded. This is both permanent hair, tangled in a fleecy surface, and a “testing ground” for cat claws. Well, if a pet accidentally “did it” on such a floor, this is generally akin to a “catastrophe”.

If, nevertheless, the choice is made in favor of carpet, then its installation, in principle, is not much different from working with linoleum. A clean, level surface is also required, such as plywood or a subfloor filled with self-levelling compound.

Ceramic tile

Floor cladding with ceramic tiles is most appropriate in rooms with high humidity. Such a coating, when properly laid, is not afraid of dampness, does not absorb fat or oil into its surface, accidentally poured in the kitchen.

For some rooms, the ideal option is ceramic tiles.

A high-quality tile is not afraid of a long-term abrasion load, that is, it is perfect for rooms with a maximum intensity of people's movement - for a corridor or a hallway.

The ceramic coating is easily and quickly washed from external contaminants, while freely maintaining any household detergents and solvents.

Even a direct hit of water, quite likely in the bathroom, will not bring any harm to the tile.

Ceramic tiles are available in a wide variety of colors, textures and patterns. For floors, of course, it is best to choose a material with a micro-relief surface, so that the roughness does not make it possible to slip on a wet floor.

Ceramic flooring can be laid, in principle, on any prepared surface, and the ideal smoothness of the base is not of decisive importance here. Including, there are technologies for laying a new tile over the old one, without tedious dismantling.

Of course, there are disadvantages to ceramic coating. So, it is always very hard, and, for example, a cup or plate dropped on the floor is practically doomed to be broken. The same factor also reduces the comfort of such a floor, so it is extremely rarely arranged in living rooms.

Another important drawback is that ceramics belongs to “cold” materials, and walking on it with bare feet or even in home light shoes is not entirely pleasant. True, this drawback can be completely eliminated by laying an electric floor heating under such a coating.

How to lay ceramic coating gender?

Whatever material is used for laying new floors, it will not be superfluous to think about surface insulation. There is not always a need for this. For example, if a residential and well-heated apartment is located below, then, most likely, no additional thermal insulation will be required. But the residents of the first floors, under whose apartments there are unheated basements or ventilated basements, have something to take care of.

There are many options in this matter. So, the technology of laying an insulating layer of extruded polystyrene foam is used, followed by pouring a screed or installing a topcoat.

Another option is to use special compounds for pouring insulated screed. Such building mixtures with the addition of expanded polystyrene or foam glass granules can be found in the store. Expanded clay is also widely used for these purposes.

Expanded clay - an excellent insulation for floors!

This thermal insulation material is highly environmentally friendly, so it is impossible better fit for residential premises. It can be used both for backfilling between lags, and for preparing a solution for pouring, and for creating floors using dry screed technology. How to do it yourself - in a separate publication of our portal.

So, the further actions of the owners directly depend on the type of coverage chosen. The links offered in the article to other pages of the portal should give a complete picture of the technology. self-fulfillment works on the replacement of floors in the apartment.

After the flooring or laying of the floor covering is completed, it remains only to finish the walls and proceed to the installation of skirting boards. This last detail will complete the interior appearance of the renovated premises.

Video: an example of a floor repair with a change of the old coating

In most cases, a modern apartment is a concrete box, subject to rough and fine finishing. In the case of gender, the homeowner needs to decide several fundamental important issues- which draft design to choose, how to perform its insulation and sound insulation, as well as which topcoat to use in each of the rooms. Floors in the apartment - what to make them so that they are not only aesthetically attractive, but also safe, durable and practical. About this today's material.

For styling most decorative coatings requires an even solid foundation. Sometimes the quality of the floor slab allows you to finish without pre-training, but more often it is required to level the base, its insulation and sound insulation. The type of floor construction ensures its reliability, practicality and durability. Therefore, it often consists of an intermediate (rough) floor mounted on a floor slab and a finishing floor (decorative), which must also have the characteristics and properties corresponding to the purpose of the room.

A rough screed does not require special qualifications of the builder, but, nevertheless, it involves a large number of works associated with its creation. You will find device features and a calculator for calculating the amount of ingredients for a floor screed solution

Previously, laying the finishing material directly on the floor slab was practiced, but it soon became clear that decorative material in the form of linoleum, carpet or parquet does not provide the required level of heat and sound insulation, and hence the proper degree of comfort and safety for human health. In addition, the absence of a rough leveling structure affects the evenness of the coating and reduces its service life.

Now the design of the floor in a modern apartment is a complex multilayer technological system in which each layer is thought out and technologically justified - hydro, sound, heat and vapor barrier.

Fundamentally, two types of black floor are distinguished - in the form of a screed and a structure with lags. Each variety has its own characteristics and advantages.

Varieties of screeds

In addition to the fact that the screed is designed to level the base under finishing material, it affects the following factors:

1. Makes the base more rigid.
2. Forms a heat and waterproofing layer.
3. Allows you to create a slope for water drainage in rooms where it is needed.
4. Allows you to lay engineering communications and electrical networks in the floor structure.

When installing a floor in an apartment, one of three types of screeds are used:

1. Wet.
2. Dry.
3. Semi-dry.

Each of these varieties has its own characteristics, technology, advantages and disadvantages.

Wet screed

This is a traditional method of screeding, a significant drawback of which is the presence of water in the composition of the solution in in large numbers. Before pouring it, it is imperative to provide a high-quality waterproofing layer of the base (floor slab), otherwise moisture will seep through it. To create a waterproofing layer, coating compositions are used that make it possible to obtain a monolithic, seamless coating or ordinary dense polyethylene, which is overlapped at least 15 cm and carefully glued with a waterproof tape.

Important! Waterproofing is brought to the walls to the height of the screed.

A variety of this type of screed is one of the cheapest options. You can fill it yourself. And the issue of providing thermal insulation can be solved by laying foam in two layers with an offset. This will lead to an increase in the cost of the floor structure, but it will become much warmer.

To create a solution, cement of a grade not lower than M400 is used, which is mixed with sand and water. In order for the components to form a stronger bond and the screed to be strong and dense, add. As part of the screed, this substance affects the following points:

1. Increases the mobility of the solution.
2. Increases mortar strength by 50%.
3. Increases the adhesion of mortar to reinforcement by 1.5 times.
4. Reduces cement consumption by -20%.
5. Reduces the amount of water in the solution.

The strength of the screed is also ensured by its thickness, which should not be less than 2 cm. This type of base is suitable for any finishing coatings, as well as for laying the "warm floor" system. Of the shortcomings wet screed note the following:

1. The work is classified as labor intensive.
2. The process is associated with wet, "dirty" work.
3. To get an even layer, you need to have the skill of working with beacons, to know how to install them correctly.
4. It takes a long time to dry the screed (at least 3 weeks).
5. The screed during the hardening process requires special care- wetting, in order to avoid the formation of cracks on its surface.

Semi-dry screed

This variety is great alternative wet screed. This method is also quite inexpensive and is distinguished by the use of a small amount of water. The result is a kind of mass, which in the circle of professional builders is called "carving", which is sand mixed dry with cement and a minimum amount of water, barely moistening the mixture. The device of a waterproofing layer when laying such a composition on a floor slab, in fact, is only a convention.

The advantages of this type of screed include the following:

1. It can be used both in new and old apartments, in private houses and cottages.
2. The presence of a small amount of water allows the use of this type of screed, regardless of the height of the floor where the apartment is located - moisture does not penetrate into the lower apartment even without a waterproofing layer.
3. The ability to create a perfectly even base without air bubbles, which are removed during the tamping process of the semi-dry mixture.
4. Low probability of crack formation. If fiber is added to the composition, then the screed will acquire additional strength and will definitely not crack.
5. Formation of an excellent soundproof barrier between apartments.
6. The ability to make even the floor on an unheated loggia warmer.
7. It can be used in the "warm floor" system with water or electric coolant.
8. Reliably protects internal communications from mechanical impact.
9. Due to the low moisture content, the screed dries quickly, which allows you to generally speed up the repair process.
10. Availability and low cost of components.

Of the minuses of this semi-dry screed, the following are noted:

1. Without a certain work experience, it is difficult to add the optimal amount of water to the screed composition.
2. The low fluidity of the solution causes difficulties in laying the screed and forming a flat surface.
3. High-quality coverage is obtained by using special tools for rammer.
4. The height of the screed should not be less than 4 cm.
5. When forming a high screed, a reinforcing mesh must be used.

Dry screed

For an apartment located in high-rise building, a screed made using this technology is ideal option. This method can be called a screed, rather, it is a multilayer flooring that does not use water.

To form an even horizontal plane, as well as in the manufacture of other types of screeds, guide beacons are used. At the same time, the liquid solution is replaced by a dry granular heat-insulating backfill, which is also distributed by the rule. After that, to form a rigid base, two layers of gypsum fiber boards are laid. Such a screed is strong and reliable.

The advantages of a dry screed device include the following:

1. A significant reduction in the time of work - you can keep within one working day.
2. It is possible to qualitatively level differences of any height.
3. Laying the finish coat can be carried out immediately after the installation of the screed.
4. Dry backfill provides high-quality heat and sound insulation of the room.
5. "Clean" work process.
6. The low weight of the floor structure allows the use of this screed in rooms with weak ceilings, for example, in wooden houses or on balconies.
7. The dismantling of the structure is carried out quickly, which is especially important when laying communications and engineering networks inside the floor.

Lag floor construction

This technology for creating a rough base is also traditional and has been used for a long time. It is endowed with special advantages that make this method of arranging a rough foundation the most optimal for apartments:

1. When constructing such a floor, there are no “wet” processes.
2. The construction material is environmentally friendly and safe.
3. The installation process does not require special skills and tools.

Similar designs differ in the way the lag is laid and the type of flooring material. The lags can be simple and adjustable. They differ in the way they rest on the base. In the first case, bars or chocks are used to install the log, which must be selected in height so that all logs laid in increments of at least 50 cm are located in a single horizontal plane.

A modern and convenient way to arrange the floor along the logs is the method using adjustable supports in the form of studs and nuts. By rotating the latter, the required height of each beam is set. This technology is convenient and allows you to quickly mount the logs, but it costs more than the first option.

As a flooring material for the rough base, you can use:

1. Boards. Moreover, such flooring can be both rough and finish, if you use a top-class grooved board.
2. Plywood. Sheets are laid in two layers with spaced seams. It is smooth and durable, but quite expensive material.
3. OSB boards, fit like plywood, but are cheaper.
4. Chipboard. The most budget option for flooring. In terms of characteristics, it is inferior to the above options.

What should be the floor in rooms for different purposes

Material finish coating is selected depending on the purpose of the room, where different requirements are imposed on it regarding the appearance and performance.

Floor in the bedroom

The bedroom is the quietest place in the apartment. Here a person should be able to fully relax after a working day, relax, sleep. The interior of the bedroom is usually decorated in soothing colors using environmentally friendly and, preferably, natural materials.

The flooring in the bedroom must meet the following requirements:

1. The surface should be pleasant to the touch, as often in the bedroom you have to walk barefoot, going to bed or getting up early in the morning. Natural coatings have a more suitable surface - board, parquet, cork and soft carpet.
2. The coating must absorb noise when walking on it, especially if it is a spouse's room - excess noise can interfere with the rest of the second person. For the same reason, the coating should not creak. Cork and carpet meet this requirement to a greater extent.
3. Particular attention is paid to the aesthetics of the coating. It should match the style and color scheme of the room, take into account the level of illumination in it, contribute to the creation of a cozy, warm atmosphere.
4. An optimal microclimate should be created in the sleeping room, so preference should be given to natural, “live” finishing materials. In the case of the floor - natural wood and products made from it.
5. The floor surface must be antistatic - this quality will ensure fresh air and the minimum amount of dust in the room. This quality is especially important in a room where people suffering from asthma and other diseases of the respiratory system live.
6. The coating must be wear-resistant, even and durable. Despite the fact that the bedroom is a room with a low level of traffic - this way the coating will last longer.

Children's room

On the surface of the floor in the nursery there are serious dynamic loads, there is a possibility of mechanical damage, getting wet and dirty. At the same time, the floor must retain heat, be easy to clean and maintain its aesthetic appearance throughout the entire service life.

There are several requirements:

1. The material must be of high quality, meet all safety standards.
2. The coating must have soundproofing properties.
3. The surface of the material must be non-slippery, hygienic, hypoallergenic, environmentally friendly, free of odors and dyes.
4. The material must withstand repeated wet cleaning, exposure to detergents and cleaners. Also, the coating should not absorb dirt.
5. The coating must be antistatic (the property not to accumulate dust on its surface).
6. It is important that the material is cushioned when walking on it - this property will protect the child from injury when falling and reduce the load on the spine.

Floor in the living room

The living room is a room where all family members meet, spend family holidays, receive guests. Sometimes, the room performs several functions, being a living room and dining room, living room and study, living room and bedroom. All this must be taken into account when choosing a floor covering.

Of the basic requirements for the floor in the living room, the following are noted:

1. The coating should be aesthetically attractive, organically combined with the rest of the finish and furniture, emphasizing the style of the interior.
2. When choosing a floor covering, take into account the shade of the cashing of the door and window opening.
3. The surface of the floor must be wear-resistant and durable - so the coating will last longer.
4. The living room can be called calling card at home, so the flooring here is chosen expensive, creating a presentable appearance of the interior.
5. The coating should be easy to care for and durable, especially if children and pets live in the house.

Floor in the kitchen

The kitchen area is special operational characteristics. The floor material here is exposed to various adverse effects:

1. The floor surface is exposed to the greatest wear in working area kitchens.
2. The indoor climate is characterized by high humidity and temperature fluctuations.
3. The coating must withstand repeated wet cleaning with detergents, as it is subject to frequent contamination.
4. The floor surface must be solid because heavy or sharp objects often fall on it.
5. In addition to strength and durability, the floor in the kitchen must have aesthetics.
6. The floor must not absorb dirt or liquids.
7. The hygiene of the coating will ensure the absence of pores and relief on the surface.
8. The material must be moisture resistant.

floor in the hallway

The entrance hall is the room that is most exposed to negative and even aggressive influences. This is where most of the sand, dirt, water gets. The coating is subject to mechanical stress and wear.

The floor material in the hallway must have the following properties:

1. The aesthetic appearance of the coating plays an important role.
2. Preference should be given to coatings on the surface of which scratches and dirt are less visible.
3. The surface must withstand mechanical stress and abrasives.
4. The material is chosen to be moisture resistant, on the surface of which water can stand for some time without harming the coating.
5. The material must be resistant to aggressive cleaning agents.
6. It is desirable that the floor surface has dirt-repellent properties.
7. The high strength of the material will protect the coating from shock loads.

Bathroom floor

Pie floor indoors with high humidity necessarily includes a layer of waterproofing. The most reliable type is the coating method, which forms a monolithic sealed coating. The main features of the coating in the bathroom include the following:

1. Moisture resistance.
2. Durability.
3. Hygiene.
4. Mechanical strength.
5. Not slippery surface.
6. Simple care.
7. aesthetic appeal.
8. The minimum number of joints or their careful sealing.

Types of floor coverings and their characteristics

All floor coverings that can be used in an apartment differ in the way they are laid, the requirements for preparing the base, appearance and performance. Consider the most popular options.

grooved board

Wood flooring is a traditional way of creating warm, pleasant to the touch, natural coating. Used for finishing special kind boards, which is called grooved. In addition to the fact that it is equipped with a groove and a ridge, there are grooves on the back side that provide natural ventilation flooring.

Important! The tongue/groove lock ensures even distribution over the flooring surface.

Table 1. Advantages and disadvantages of boardwalk

Advantages

Flaws

1. Natural wood is a natural, environmentally friendly and safe material. 2. The tree "breathes", and therefore affects the creation of an optimal microclimate in the room. 3. With proper care and the right choice of wood species, the coating will last for many years. 4. The surface can be subjected to a variety of treatments - staining, varnishing, brushing, oiling and waxing. 5. The wooden floor creates a cozy, warm atmosphere in the interior.

1. When compared with other materials, wood has a higher cost. 2. Natural wood is unstable to mechanical stress and cannot be restored if severely damaged. 3. Periodically, treatment with antiseptic compounds is required. 4. The material is combustible, so it is additionally treated with antiperm. 5. Periodic renewal of the decorative layer is required. 6. Wood is afraid of moisture, so it can not be installed in every room. It is also worth performing a thorough waterproofing of the base when installing a wooden floor on the ground floor above an unheated underground.

Table 2. Board laying process

Image	Description
	The first board is laid with a groove to the wall at a certain distance, forming a gap of at least 1 cm.
	They are fixed on a self-tapping screw so that the fastener head is subsequently behind the plinth.
	For further installation of the flooring, you can use long self-tapping screws that exceed the thickness of the lamella by 2 times. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the boards at the lag locations. The fastener caps are subsequently masked with a special putty.
	The second method involves screwing self-tapping screws into the tenon of each board. This method provides a tighter fit of the boards and allows you to hide the fasteners.

Parquet

One of the varieties of wooden flooring is block parquet. You can also install modular parquet, which looks like a tile with a geometric pattern of several dies.

Important! Parquet differs from other materials in that it is made of solid wood, so its cost is quite high. However, this coating has a very long service life.

The presence of a groove and a ridge on each plank ensures their snug fit, in addition, the elements are attached to the adhesive during installation. For the manufacture of parquet, such wood as oak, cherry, ash, beech, maple is used.

Table 3. Advantages and disadvantages of parquet

Advantages

Flaws

1. Usage hard rock for the manufacture of dies, allows you to get a durable, reliable coating. 2. Due to the unique natural pattern, the coating has a unique, aesthetic appearance. 3. When repairing, you can replace a single fragment without disassembling the entire coating. 4. The coating is environmentally friendly and safe. 5. The large thickness of the dies makes them resistant to mechanical stress and allows them to be repeatedly polished. 6. The coating has excellent heat and sound insulation properties.

1. Is the most expensive way to finish the floor. 2. For laying, it is required to hire a specialist with experience in carrying out such work. 3. The material is more demanding of microclimatic conditions than others. 4. Like any wood material, it is afraid of moisture.

Piece and modular parquet differ in cost and, if desired, you can choose the material at a fairly affordable price.

Table 4. Average cost of parquet

Name and image of material brand Papa Carlo	Average cost as of September 2018, rubles
	880
	680
	920
	2800
	3600
	3600
	2500

parquet board

The parquet board is three-layer floor material with a lock connection, like a laminate, but differs from it in that the front layer, like all the others, is made natural wood. Therefore, the parquet board looks noble and natural. The slats are highly durable due to the fact that the middle layer of the slats is located perpendicular to the outer one - the lower plywood and the front decorative, impregnated with a protective compound.

Externally, a parquet board can imitate a coating of block parquet. This effect is achieved due to the fact that the front layer of one lamella looks like it is assembled from 2, 3 or 4 rows of dies.

Table 5. Advantages and disadvantages of a parquet board

Advantages

Flaws

1. Lamels are made of natural wood. 2. Affordable cost compared to parquet. 3. Simple installation and strong connection of lamellas due to the presence of a locking system. 4. A wide variety of shades and types of wood. 5. A variety of optional processing methods. 6. Variability of laying methods. 7. Can be used in the "warm floor" system. 8. Nice surface. 9. The ability to absorb noise. 10. Durable, even coating that does not require complex maintenance. 11. The possibility of creating a collapsible cover.

1. Vulnerability to moisture. 2. Vulnerability to chemical reagents and overheating when used in a floor heating system. 3. In case of mechanical damage, the entire lamella must be replaced.

Table 6. Laying parquet board

Illustration	Description
	The material, without unpacking, is left for 48 hours.
	First, a substrate is laid with the institution of the material on the wall along the perimeter of the room.
	The boards of the first row are cut on one side, removing the locking element. A gap is left between the wall and the first row of lamellas by inserting special spacer plastic wedges into the gap.
	For a snug fit, the slats use the technology of tapping on them with a hammer through a special bar.
	An electric jigsaw is used to cut the lamellas.
	The locking system allows the installation of the coating in a short time.
	Spacer wedges are installed around the entire perimeter of the room. This laying method is called floating and ensures the integrity of the coating when the material expands during a period of temperature fluctuations.
	To lay the board in the area of ​​​​the doorway, the lamella itself and the door frame are cut.
	V doorway install a threshold with a hidden fastening to match the coating.
	At the final stage, a plinth is mounted around the perimeter of the room.

Laminate

Laminate is a coating consisting of multilayer lamellas, the front decorative layer of which imitates any type of wood, as well as other natural and artificial materials.

Lamels from different manufacturers can have arbitrarily technological layers that improve the performance properties of the laminate. The simplest instance consists of the following layers:

1. Lower stabilization paper layer with melamine impregnation.
2. The bearing and the thickest layer based on HDF - plates with a locking connection at the ends.
3. Decorative paper layer with natural material texture pattern.
4. A protective polymer layer that determines the wear resistance (class) of the laminate. For residential premises, material of class 32 is purchased.

Table 7. Advantages and disadvantages of laminate

Advantages

Flaws

1. Castle type connection of the lamellas ensures their tight fit and quick installation. 2. The possibility of creating a collapsible coating for floating laying. 3. The front layer resistant to mechanical stress and the moisture resistance of some models allows the use of the material in hallways and kitchens. 4. Waterproof laminate (PVC) can be used in bathrooms. 5. The coating can be used in any room, as it is environmentally friendly and safe. 6. Affordable cost and a wide range of colors and textures make this material quite popular. 7. The coating is not afraid of UV and does not need additional processing. 8. Material with a special marking can be used in the "warm floor" system.

1. Some varieties are afraid of moisture. 2. Is not a natural material. 3. The surface is not as warm as natural wood. 4. A very sonorous material that requires the organization of high-quality sound insulation of the base.

PVC laminate is environmentally friendly and safe for humans and the environment. see a detailed list advantages of PVC panels.

Laying laminate is carried out according to the same principle as parquet boards - in a floating way.

Laying is carried out on a flat and clean base on the substrate, leaving a compensation gap along the perimeter between the coating and the wall.

Linoleum

Linoleum is one of the common types of flooring that can be used in rooms of any purpose and degree of traffic. Its popularity is associated with many factors, one of which is the moisture resistance of the material and the possibility of using it in wet areas.

Linoleum can be with or without a base. According to the structure, it is divided into homogeneous (single-layer) and heterogeneous (multilayer). The composition can be natural and artificial (PVC). According to the field of application, the material is divided into:

1. Commercial.
2. Domestic.
3. Semi-commercial.
4. Special.

More often in residential premises, three-layer linoleum is used for semi-commercial purposes. He has higher operational properties, resistance to mechanical stress and abrasion. It consists of the following layers:

1. Protective polyurethane layer 0.4-0.6 mm thick.
2. Decorative (front) plain or multi-colored layer.
3. The bottom layer is in the form of a foamed PVC substrate.

Table 8. Advantages and disadvantages of linoleum

Advantages	Flaws
1. Low price. 2. A rich variety of colors, imitations various materials and invoices. 3. Wear-resistant front layer. 4. Durability. 5. Resistance to moisture. 6. Resistance to mechanical stress. 7. Monolithic coating that does not absorb odors and dirt. 8. Doesn't slip. 9. Suitable for underfloor heating system. 10. Does not require complex care.	1. Unnatural material. 2. There may be a specific smell in the first 2 weeks. 3. There may be black sole marks. 4. Requires a level ground. 5. When damaged, it cannot be repaired.

Before you start laying linoleum, the base must be prepared. If laying is carried out on a cement screed or reinforced concrete slab, then its surface is cleaned of debris and primed. Also, laying can be done on wooden (plywood) flooring.

Table 9. Laying linoleum

Illustration	Description
	At the first stage, the roll is rolled out in the room and allowed to rest for some time.
	Linoleum is cut along the perimeter of the room, adjusting it to size.
	After a day, you can begin to fix the canvas with double-sided tape. The adhesive tape is first fixed on the floor, having previously unbent a part of the linoleum.
	After the surface of the tape is smoothed with a paint roller, the protective layer is removed, releasing the outer sticky side of the adhesive tape.
	Linoleum is carefully returned to its place, fixing in a given position. Do the same with the second half of the canvas.
	At the final stage, the plinth is fixed.

Marmoleum

A natural variety of linoleum is a modern material - marmoleum. It contains only natural ingredients:

1. Pine resin.
2. Linseed oil.
3. Jute fibers.
4. Wood flour.

Important! To the touch, in terms of environmental friendliness and degree of depreciation, marmoleum can be compared with cork.

Marmoleum can be rolled and slab. The rolled material must be laid on an insulated or heated base, as it does not have additional layers. Another option is slab, it is distinguished by a multilayer structure, when a strip of marmoleum is fixed on a supporting HDF-plate with a lock, and cork backing. Laying of such plates is carried out quickly, and castle method connection provides a snug fit of the elements and eliminates the occurrence of cold bridges.

Table 10. Advantages and disadvantages of marmoleum

Advantages

Flaws

1. The material is environmentally friendly and safe. 2. The material is hypoallergenic with bactericidal properties. 3. Affordable cost compared to other natural coatings. 4. It has sound and heat insulation properties. 5. Not subject to shrinkage and deformation, moisture resistant, retains its dimensions throughout the entire service life. 6. Does not absorb dirt. 7. Resistant to point loads. 8. Has a long service life. 9. Has an antistatic surface. 10. Does not burn, support or promote the spread of fire. 11. Can have any shade and imitate the textures of various materials. 12. Easy to install.

1. The edges of marmoleum are fragile, which requires careful handling during transportation, storage and installation. 2. The material is difficult to cut, so it is recommended to trim the marmoleum only at the junction with the wall, provided that the cut will be hidden behind the plinth.

Laying marmoleum is easy and does not require special skills.

Table 11. The process of laying marmoleum

Illustration	Description
	The base must be free of dirt and dust.
	Markings are applied to the floor surface, the middle of the room is marked, taking into account the distance from the wall along the perimeter of the room at a distance of at least 6 cm.
	Apply adhesive with a spatula.
	A spatula with teeth level the solution, forming grooves.
	A fragment is laid out from a marmoleum tile.
	Excess adhesive is removed immediately with a damp sponge.
	With the help of a rolling roller, the tile is pressed in a predetermined position, passing in two directions.
	The cut line when cutting tiles is indicated with a sharp clerical knife.
	The fragment is cut at an angle of 45 degrees using a special tool.
	After gluing the cut fragment, it is also rolled with a roller in two directions.

Video - Do-it-yourself marmoleum laying

Tile

This material occupies a special niche among floor coverings - according to its technical characteristics, it is more suitable than others for rooms with special operating conditions and requirements for floor hygiene (kitchen, bathroom, hallway).

Table 12. Advantages and disadvantages of tiles

Advantages	Flaws
1. High hardness, density and strength. 2. Hygiene. 3. Hypoallergenic. 4. Moisture resistance. 5. Wide range shades, patterns, textures, sizes and shapes. 6. Biological passivity. 7. Fire resistant. 8. Dielectricity. 9. High thermal conductivity. 10. Wear resistance. 11. UV resistant. 12. Durability.	1. The material is fragile, so it requires careful attitude during transportation, storage and installation. 2. Not resistant to point shock loads. 3. It is characterized by low soundproof properties. 4. The coating surface is cold and unpleasant to the touch. 5. Glossy varieties slide. 6. Difficult dismantling. 7. Require experience when laying.

The surface of a floor ceramic tile happens opaque and glossy. More secure, with a pleasant embossed, porous structure is a matte tile. It does not slip, therefore it is recommended for bathrooms. It is easier to remove dirt from a glossy surface, its gloss visually makes the room brighter and more spacious. Mosaic is one of the options for floor cladding, but its disadvantage is the large number of joints, which are the most vulnerable spot prone to pollution, so the bathroom will be the best place to use it.

Important! When choosing tiles for the floor, take into account the operational features of the room and the load. We will show you how to choose the right floor tiles.

self-leveling floor

The bulk floor is different in composition. In this regard, its surface can be:

1. Matte.
2. Semi-matte.
3. Glossy.
4. Semi-gloss.

In appearance, the floors are multi-color or plain, with a pattern and pattern or . The self-leveling floor makes it possible to use a variety of methods for decorating them - using a canvas with a pattern, introducing decorative inclusions into the solution, pouring wood, stone, coins and other elements with a transparent composition.

They entrust professionals with experience, as there are many manufacturing technologies for the composition, depending on the components and methods for creating a decorative coating.

Table 13. Advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling floor

carpet

Carpet is a rolled material with different pile thickness and height, shade and pattern, which allows you to choose a coating for any interior. The thickness of the material varies from 5 to 10 mm.

Note! Any carpet covering consists of a base for fixing the pile (woven or non-woven), a fixing layer based on latex, a secondary base in contact with the floor, endowing the coating with elasticity, heat and sound insulation qualities, wear resistance, and pile.

Carpet is different:

1. Manufacturing material.
2. Manufacturing technology.
3. The length and quality of the pile.
4. base material.

According to the material of manufacture, carpet can be natural and synthetic. The first is more whimsical in care and is more expensive.

Table 14. Advantages and disadvantages of carpet

cork floor

Cork is made from natural raw materials by pressing. This floor is distinguished by high shock-absorbing properties, due to the porous structure. Cork is pleasant to the touch, so it is often used in children's rooms. When using cork in rooms with a high load and traffic, the front layer is varnished.

There are several varieties - in the form of a material with an adhesive base or plates (laminate) with a thorn-groove lock. The latter may have different thickness. Tiles less than 6 mm are laid on any flat surface and fixed with glue. Material up to 12 mm thick can be mounted by the floating method on wooden flooring, screed or linoleum.

Table 15. Advantages and disadvantages of cork coating

Summary table of materials for the floor in the apartment

Summing up, it should be indicated which coatings are appropriate in certain areas of the apartment.

Table 16. What coatings are appropriate in certain rooms

Indicator	Bulk floor	Laminate	Parquet board	Array. board	Cork	Linoleum	Ceram. tile	Carpet. coating
Service life, years	10 – 30	5 – 15	15 – 30	up to 40	Up to 50	3 – 7	5 – 15	1 – 5
Environmental friendliness	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
naturalness	No	No	Yes	Yes	Yes	Not really	Yes	Not really
decorative	high	low	low	low	low	low	average	low
Care	easy	medium	medium	medium	medium	easy	medium	hard
Resistance to mechanical load	high	average	average	average	low	average	average	average
maintainability	high	No	low	low	No	No	No	No
thermal insulation	low	low	high	high	high	low	low	average
moisture resistance	high	low	low	low	low	high	high	low
Price	average	average	high	high	high	low	average	average
For which rooms is recommended	Hallway Living room Bathroom Kitchen	Hallway Living room Kitchen	Living room Bedroom Children's	Living room Bedroom Children's	Bedroom Children's	Hallway Living room Bathroom Kitchen	Hallway Bathroom Kitchen	Bedroom

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It is equally important to consider the number of storeys of the apartment. I'll explain why: if you live on the first floor, then remember, there is an unheated basement below. And that means high humidity and cold. If you live on the second floor and above, then under you there will be a residential heated and dry apartment.

When choosing a floor covering, I also recommend considering the height of the room. Some technologies are simply unrealistic to introduce into an apartment, for example, wooden floors on logs if the ceiling height is 220 cm. Another point is the floor difference between rooms. We level the floors at all our facilities.

If in your apartment wooden floor, then I do not advise pouring a concrete screed. There will be a heavy load on him. On the contrary, choose a coating that is light in weight, such as laminate or linoleum. Well, it is important to pay attention to aesthetics.

From a practical point of view, I also advise you to choose flooring by zone. For example, tiles for the kitchen and bathroom, wood, laminate and the like can be laid in the bedroom.

Advice

Zone the territory. Separate it with a color, it's beautiful and convenient.

Here's what the floors look like with zoning:

What basis to use

The draft base in the apartment can be made from:

1. Wet screed.

2. Semi-dry screed.

3. Dry screed.

Wet screed

· Long drying time. After pouring, about 30 days or more should pass for complete hardening.

• There is a lot of dirt in the process.

· There is a serious load per square meter, which can reach up to 70 kg/m 2 .

Shrinkage may occur as moisture evaporates.

• Serious labor required.

• High strength.
• Relatively low cost.

· Various engineering systems can be laid in the screed.

· To achieve the required level, you can fill in a thick layer without consequences.

Important! Provided that at least three people will pour the screed: one on the batch, the second on the rule, the third on the tray, then on average it is possible to pour the screed for a working day with an area of ​​​​up to 50 m 2 with a thickness of about 50 mm. at the same time, it takes about a day to install beacons.

Work on pouring a wet screed costs about 400 rubles. per m 2.

Semi-dry screed

We use this option in all our facilities. You can read more about the technology on our second website - http://qualityfloor.ru/

· Dependence on weather conditions. At sub-zero temperature work is prohibited.

• Difficult to implement on your own.

· Excellent quality is maintained at high speed.

After a while, cracks do not appear on the surface.

· Eliminates the possibility of water leakage into the lower room.

· Unlike a wet screed, a semi-dry screed is 15% cheaper.

Important! One brigade traditional way pouring a semi-dry screed is capable of pouring up to 100 m 2. If use mechanized way, then up to 300 m 2 in one day.

The cost of materials: cement M500 50 kg - 350 rubles, washed sand 1 m 3 - 1100 rubles. The cost of work, which includes work by the rule and by helicopter, reaches up to 150 rubles. per m 2.

Dry screed

Disadvantages:

· Hydrophilicity. I explain: if a pipe breaks under a dry screed, then the screed will have to be made completely anew, with preliminary dismantling work.

• Cannot be installed in the shower and bathroom.

Advantages:

• Wet processes are completely absent.
• Increased sound and thermal insulation.
• Environmental friendliness.

· Little weight. Three times lighter than concrete wet screed.

• After installation, the floors are ready for use.

Important! In one day, a team of qualified specialists is able to produce 50 m 2 of dry screed.

The cost of installing a dry screed "Knauf" per m 2 ranges from 450 to 1300 rubles. The price depends on the method of production and volumes. For example, a dry floor screed up to 10 m 2, which includes dry backfill and a floor element 1000 rubles / m 2. With a similar composition, a volume of 30 m 3 will cost you 450 rubles. I will advise you to compare the offers of several construction companies at once in order to choose the most favorable price.

Noise isolation

Styrofoam

Advantages:

• Easy installation.
• Easy to cut.
• Elastic and strong material.
• Service life up to 25 years.
• Not afraid of moisture.

• Flammable material.

· Existence of joints that reduces noise-insulating properties.

The cost of foam plastic per m 3 with a thickness of 10 mm is 280 rubles. (I didn't find the price for the job)

Mineral wool

In my opinion, mineral wool is one of the best building materials that provides excellent floor sound insulation. However, mineral wool cannot be poured with concrete. It is only suitable for wooden floors. For example, laying between floor beams.

• The ability to absorb sound waves.
• Does not burn.
• Does not emit harmful and dangerous toxic gases.
• The ability to cope with temperatures up to +1000°C.
• Possibility of laying without a cold bridge.
• Service life up to 25 years.
• Mineral wool is resistant to various aggressive environments.

· Throughout all term of operation mineral wool keeps the properties.

• Vapor permeability.

• Afraid of moisture.

· Difficulties during installation (protective clothing must be worn).

The cost of mineral wool per package differs based on its thickness. For example, mineral wool 100 mm thick 600 × 800 mm costs 450 rubles. Mineral wool 600 mm thick 600 × 100 mm costs 650 rubles.

Important! The cost of installing sound insulation with mineral wool per m 2 will cost 200 rubles.

Expanded clay

If a screed is poured, then in my experience and practice, expanded clay is the best solution. Its price is much lower. The price depends on the faction. It is sold in bags. For example, a fraction of 10–20 mm with a volume of 0.05 m 3 costs 85 rubles, and a fraction of up to 5 mm with a volume of 0.05 m 3 costs 140 rubles.

Important! The cost of backfilling expanded clay per m 2 is 60 rubles.

Positive sides:

• Low price.
• Natural product - environmental friendliness.

· Does not change its structure when the temperature changes.

• It does not start various microorganisms.
• Refractory material.
• Noise isolation is provided by the porosity of its structure.

Negative sides:

• Very brittle due to porosity.

· Due to the low density, it is necessary to fill up a soundproof pillow of a decent height. In apartments with small ceilings, it is impossible to implement.

• The ability to absorb moisture.

Warming

As for the floor insulation in the apartment, I advise all my customers not to miss this opportunity. Especially when the apartment is on the first floor and there is an unheated basement under you. Floor insulation will eliminate heat loss.

Important! If a floor heating system is laid on the floor, then floor insulation is simply necessary. There should be a reflective film on the heaters. Due to this, all the heat emitted will rise up the apartment.

Various materials are used for insulation.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is sold in packages. Depending on the manufacturer, the price ranges from 1.1 to 4 thousand rubles. Work for m 2 will cost you 150 rubles.

• Easy installation.
• Light weight.
• Environmental friendliness.
• It does not contain different microorganisms.
• Does not pass moisture and heat.
• Service life of 50 years or more.

• combustible
• Upon reaching a temperature of 90 ° is deformed.

Cork

It costs a roll of cork 2 mm thick - 1200 rubles. The cork thickness of 6 mm has a price per roll - 3800 rubles. In my opinion, the use of this heater is unjustified. There are much cheaper heaters. But in some cases it's the only optimal solution. The price of work for installation is 320 rubles. m 2.

• Long service life.
• Environmental friendliness.
• Does not rot, does not spread mold.
• After a while, it does not lose its characteristics.
• Lets air through.

• Difficult installation process.

· High price. But in my opinion the quality justifies the price.

Ecowool

One of the modern solutions. In my opinion, the most effective way to insulate a wooden floor in an apartment. The cost of 1 kg is 28 rubles. Work for 1m 2 costs from 1600 rubles. (wet method). In my opinion, perfect combination quality at low cost.

• Lets air through.
• Low cost.

· Does not breed mold, does not rot. Insects and mice do not start in it.

• Easy installation.
• Seamless insulation.

Important! Cons: the main drawback is that after a while, dry laying of ecowool becomes caked. Therefore, when insulating the floor, I recommend tamping it well, on average, 1 m 3 will consume 50 kg.

Water heated floor

For many customers living in an apartment, I advise you to make a warm water floor. However, it is not always possible to do so. For example, in your apartment low ceilings, and the heating cake can take at least 70 mm. It is not always possible to pour the screed onto a water-heated floor, due to weak overlap. It is also important to consider the choice of flooring. For example, under the laminate, all the heat is eaten up and reach comfortable temperature it will be hard.

Advice! As my practice shows, a water-heated floor is ideally combined with ceramic tiles. She has high level thermal conductivity, which allows not to detain thermal energy in the body of the screed.

· Lining insulation (which ones are cheaper and better, write briefly)

Floor materials

The modern market offers big choice floor finishing materials. I propose to compare the most common facing materials.

Parquet

• Ease of use.
• Durability about 100 years.
• Beautiful appearance.
• It matches perfectly with any style of interior.

· High price. Especially when exotic wood species are used.

• Needs to be polished from time to time.
• There is a lot of noise when walking.

The cost of a piece parquet is 950 rubles/m2, and a parquet board is from 800 to 2000 rubles/m2. The work will cost 1000 rubles. per m 2.

Laminate

There are many manufacturers of laminate, so the cost of laminate is different. I take off from the class. For an apartment, I advise you to purchase a laminate class of at least 33. So the price per m 2 is in the region from 300 to 2400 rubles / m 2. The cost of installation is on average 350 rubles / m 2.

Benefits of laminate:

· Packing convenient for transportation and manual carrying.

• Simulates various building materials.
• Easy care.
• Wear resistance (depending on the class).
• Relatively simple and quick installation.
• Can be installed in different rooms.

Resistant to negative impact UV, do not fade. Some planks are even moisture resistant.

• Does not breed mold and fungus.

Cons of laminate:

· It is impossible to restore the top layer in case of wear. A complete replacement is needed.

• Makes a lot of noise when walking.
• Unnatural tactile sensations.
• Rigidity.

The presence of formaldehyde calls into question the environmental friendliness.

· Without deformation joints, the coating will spread or swell.

Linoleum

The cost of linoleum ranges from 200 to 1.5 thousand rubles / m 2. The cost is affected by its class, for example, commercial, household, and so on. For an apartment, I recommend buying linoleum no cheaper than 500 rubles / m 2. Installation cost: for glue 320 rubles/m 2 , without glue 250 rubles/m 2 .

• Relatively inexpensive flooring.

Resistant to moisture and steam. Actual for rooms in an apartment with high humidity, for example, a kitchen.

• Wear-resistant (depending on the class).
• Easy installation. You can use glue or not.
• Does not slip when wet.
• Easy care.

· Linoleum has a specific smell. It goes away after two weeks.

• Weak wear resistance to punctures.
• A perfectly flat floor surface is required.

Tree

In my opinion, the tree is the most win-win option when finishing the floor in the apartment. just keep in mind that it fits on the logs. Therefore, the height of the ceilings should allow such luxury. The cost of a wooden floor per m 2 varies based on the thickness of the board. The average price is 450 rubles / m 2. The flooring of the board along the logs will cost 400 rubles / m 2.

• Excellent aesthetic appearance.
• Pleasant tactile sensations when walking.

· In addition, wooden floors insulate the base. You can walk barefoot.

· Easy to operate. Once every 5 years, a coat of paint / varnish is applied and the floors are like new.

· A new floor covering can be laid on the old wooden floor.

• Easily repairable.

Difficulty in installation. Many nuances must be taken into account.

• It is impossible to achieve perfect evenness of the floor.
• If the installation technology is not followed, they creak.

Tile

The cost of ceramic tiles varies based on its collection. You can find tiles for 400 rubles / m 2, and there are collections of 17 thousand rubles / m 2. The cost of work is within 1000 rubles / m 2.

• Hard and durable coating.
• Does not let moisture through, unless there is a flood.
• Long service life.
• Hygiene.
• Easy to clean up.
• Resistant to temperature extremes.
• Resistant to chemical aggressive agents.

· High thermal conductivity. Without floor heating It's cold to walk on tiles.

• Harmful in case of moisture.
• High price.
• Installation difficulties.

Rating of floor materials

floor material	Appearance (10 points)	Material price	Installation cost	Price with work	Durability	Time before restoration
		950 - 2000 rubles.
		300 - 2400 rubles.
Linoleum		200 - 1500 rubles.	For glue - 320 rubles. Without glue - 250 rubles.
		400 - 17000 rubles.

When purchasing a new or restoring an old home, each of us sees the process of repairing a house in a different way. Some approach radically, and decide to re-equip the entire living space, while others intend to get by with a light cosmetic repair. If you see that more than 30 percent of the premises are in need of repair, then it is better to choose a major type of restoration of an apartment or house. After all, the visible is only part of what needs to be done. Usually the most severe damage is hidden from the naked eye.

When renovating a room, it is always necessary first of all to analyze the condition of the floors, walls and ceiling. These main structural elements of your home are fundamental, and the condition of your entire home depends on their integrity.

Repair of floors in an apartment, the options for which are presented below, must begin with a major overhaul throughout the house. Only in this way the repair that you started will make sense, and an excellent result.

You should not start repairing the floors in the apartment if you do not have enough time and money. This type of repair is highly costly, and if halfway through it turns out that you have run out of money, then your whole family will be jumping over logs and bags of cement for a long time. Do-it-yourself repairs will help save a lot of money. But for it to be carried out correctly, you need to develop a plan in which all stages of repair work should be clearly defined.

Stages of repairing floors in an apartment:

1. Before starting any repair, it is necessary to make a sketch of the finished object. Take a pencil, a sheet of paper and a tape measure, draw a surface, and put on it whatever you want to do next.
2. According to your visions, delimit the space into zones. Determine where what finishing material you will apply.
3. Arrange future or existing furniture in the order in which it will stand.
4. Number the stages of construction work with numbers. They begin with the dismantling of old surfaces, in the middle of the way you have a replacement of communications, and the repair ends with laying the floor.
5. Make a budget.

Once again, weigh your financial capabilities and determination, read the reviews, these types of work are not cheap. If you decide to make repairs with your own hands, then the advice of a specialist, or advice from a professional, will not be superfluous for you.

Existing types of floors in the apartment: 10 installation options

The floor is the upper part of the overlap between the floors of an apartment building or a house and the ground. The quality of the floors greatly affects the entire structure of the building; a well-made house can serve for decades without requiring replacement or repair.

Types of floors in the apartment are different. They differ in the type of bases for the floor and the floor covering.

Also, the floor has several functions that we sometimes don’t even think about, believing that its main task is to provide us with convenient movement around the apartment. The floor must provide soundproofing, thermal insulation, moisture resistance, load-bearing function and, of course, aesthetic appearance.

Types of floors that exist:

• Wooden beams can be used as the basis for the floor;
• Reinforced concrete beams are also suitable for these purposes;
• In modern buildings for the arrangement of beams, a metal profile can be laid;
• For further laying of the flooring, the space between the beams is filled with a cement screed, semi-dry or dry;
• As a floor covering, you can lay linoleum;
• The wooden floor will be warm and environmentally friendly;
• Properly installed parquet or laminate flooring is often used in modern designs;
• Sometimes builders use PVC tiles;
• For the arrangement of floors in the corridor or kitchen, you can use ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware;

In elite houses, it is customary to use marble or granite tiles for arranging the floor in problem rooms.

Which flooring in the apartment is better: what to choose

The specificity of buildings involves the use of various building materials. Sometimes, where it is possible to use wooden boards for the floor, it is completely impossible to equip the floor with ceramic tiles. To change building materials one for another, it is necessary to completely change the structure of the floors.

What is the best flooring for an apartment? What do professionals think about this? How to choose your own from all existing types of flooring?

To understand this problem, and make a choice, it is necessary to carefully study the technical characteristics of all types of flooring available in nature.

Properties and characteristics of types of flooring:

• Board. In most cases, this is a planed, tongue-and-groove board, 25-45 mm thick, adapted for laying on the floor. Such a floor provides heat and sound insulation and is the most environmentally friendly of all types of floors.
• Parquet. The principle and technical characteristics of such a floor correspond to the floor of the boards. The only difference is the size of the boards. Due to the fact that the size of the boards may not be large, they can be made from precious woods, which makes the floor better and more durable.
• Laminate is very similar in appearance and laying to parquet, but is made of four-layer fiberboard.
• Linoleum. The most common finishing material. It is easy to install, easy to care for, its quality is constantly being improved. Apartment owners willingly use this finishing material in their premises.

Tiles of all kinds are used mainly in the kitchen, bathroom, toilet and hallway. Its use is due to its special strength and water resistance.

We figure out which floor is better to do in the apartment

In modern apartments, the main theme of renovation is energy saving. To do this, their owners take a number of measures that ensure a delay in the heat in the apartment.

What floor is better to do in the apartment, so that it is warmer and more economical. Experts recommend equipping types of floors where there is space between the base of the floor and the floor covering.

Underfloor heating allows you to save from 25 to 50 percent of the heat in the house thanks to the underfloor heating system. You can equip it even on your own, the main thing is to foresee it in advance, even before the start of the overhaul of the floor.

Types of floor heating systems:

• Water heating;
• Electric heating;
• Infrared heating.

It is the infrared heating system that is the most high-quality, affordable and practical for warming houses in apartments. It is suitable for almost any floor covering.

Wooden floors in the apartment: material features

The environmental friendliness of food, clothing and building materials is of increasing importance. And not in vain. The objects that surround us, as well as the food we eat, greatly affect our health. That is why modern designers and home owners are increasingly using wood for flooring.

Floors in an apartment made of wood are again rising in the ranking among the materials for creating flooring. Designers make up a variety of projects, the main idea of ​​which is precisely wooden floors.

It is not in vain that the most expensive styles of interior design imply the presence of only wooden floors. In the modern world of designer fashion, such a floor indicates good wealth, financial stability and excellent taste of the owner of the house.

Advantages of wooden floors:

• Made from environmentally friendly natural material;
• They have an excellent aesthetic appearance;
• Practical and durable;
• Even small children can easily walk on such a floor with bare feet;
• Easy to maintain and repair;
• It is not difficult to do the installation by hand,

There are several types of wood flooring. Parquet and parquet board are currently considered the most expensive of the wooden types. A simpler option is a regular grooved board.

Bulk coating on the floor in the room: fashion trends

Laying parquet or laying parquet slabs on a concrete floor is now not difficult for many, just like laying cheaper options. The simplest, which will cost the least, is to make flooring from linoleum or to cover the floor with laminate. But the design of houses in this way is no longer fashionable.

Covering the floor in the room of the bulk plan will not cost you cheap, but finishing with their use will make everyone “gasp”.

If you are building a house from scratch and you want it to be beautiful, and unusual finishing works to make it exclusive, try a new way that flooring is now covered - self-leveling.

Self-leveling floors are made from:

• polyurethane;
• Epoxy urethane resin;
• methyl methacrylate;
• Cement-polyurethane mixture.

The most extravagant and unusual are self-leveling floors made of polyurethane and epoxy resins.

Materials: what to make the floors in the apartment from (video)

A huge number of materials for arranging the floor give you a choice. For different rooms of the house, you can choose a different coating, which will ensure more reliable functionality of the premises. Your main task is to properly perform the work on the construction and finishing of floors.