Sheathing that imitates natural materials with a higher quality than themselves is, if not a dream, then at least the desire of most homeowners.

If such a sheathing is relatively inexpensive and can be installed in a short time, then its preference is undeniable. These are the characteristics of siding.

Houses sheathed with siding have clear, even outlines, look neat and stylish. Such a finish, for all its external ideality, is quite simple and accessible to everyone, you just need to familiarize yourself with the general device and a few installation rules.

The installation itself is simple and intuitive for anyone, some questions arise when decorating the elements of the house, in particular, window openings.

• Platbands.
• J-bars.
• Finish profile.
• Corner strips (complex).
• Simple corner.
• Segments of the main panels.

The listed elements are not needed all at the same time, this list includes elements that may be needed in a particular case.

A more specific list can only be compiled with a certain opening in front of your eyes with its own parameters, the main of which are the presence and depth of slopes.

NOTE!

Many manufacturers produce their own elements for decorating window openings, which are used only for a certain type of siding. When purchasing a skin, you should find out what accessories are needed for it and if there are any specific parts.

Preparation of slopes for facing

Before starting work, you should prepare an opening. To do this, you need to remove all the design details - old slopes, cashing, outer window sill, etc.

The opening must be freed from all additional elements - brackets for lanterns, fasteners or other elements that interfere with the installation of the skin. The surface of the slopes should be cleaned of old paint, various layers, cleaned and removed all crumbling or exfoliated areas.

The presence of a large number of flaws in the slope surface may require the application of a leveling layer of plaster; in simpler cases, putty can be dispensed with.

Careful surface preparation is required, it should be treated as responsibly as possible., because after installing the siding there will be no access to the slopes.

Lathing installation

On slopes it is installed simultaneously with the main one. All procedures are carried out - insulation, installation of battens, etc.. The same material is used as for the main crate - wooden bars or metal guides for plasterboard.

At the same time, it should be borne in mind that the installation of the crate on slopes of great depth should be carried out taking into account the thickness of the insulation, the ventilation gap and other technological dimensions.

The fact is that the dimensions of the window block have a certain value and do not always allow you to fully install all the necessary elements - the skin can turn out too far from the slope plane and partially block the light opening of the frame.

In such cases, it is necessary to reduce the thickness of the insulation (or completely abandon it in this place), reduce the ventilation gap to achieve an acceptable position of the window opening design elements.

Window siding without slopes

For the design of windows installed in the same plane with the wall (without slopes), platbands will be required.

To install them you will need:

• A starting profile is installed on the box along the perimeter of the window. If there are many windows and they are large, then the consumption of the starting strip may be large.. To save money, you can get by with pieces of about 8 cm long, you can not put solid planks. The profile is attached approximately 5 mm from the edge of the box with the locking part towards the window.
• Platbands are adjusted in length, their outer planes are cut at an angle of 45 °, for which it is convenient to use a miter box or an electric saw on a special stand, which makes it possible to accurately cut at a given angle.
• The internal elements of the platbands are cut according to a certain pattern. The upper trim along the end part is cut and folded down so that rainwater that gets inside can drain along these bent parts into the side elements. The side platbands are cut from the inside so that the fasteners and profile elements do not intersect with the upper platband, and the lower platband is cut in the same way. When trimming the internal parts, remember to leave temperature gaps of about 3 mm.
• The installation takes place according to the usual scheme - the platband is snapped into the locking part in the starting profile, and is attached to the crate with screws along the nail strip. First, the lower platband is installed, then the side ones, after which the installation is completed by installing the upper platband.
• Installation of platbands is carried out simultaneously with the installation of corner and H-profiles before installation of the main siding panels.

Window trim with siding

The method of finishing the slopes depends on their depth. For the design of slopes up to 20 cm deep, a near-window bar is used.

The installation method is similar to the installation of platbands, but there are some slight differences.:

• The window slats are cut to length. The upper and lower parts are mounted first, but the trimming of the inner part is different for them.
• The upper part of the near-window strip is trimmed from the inside so that the side slope parts do not intersect with the internal end profile elements. Outside, it seems to rest on the side slats. 45° cuts are not required in this case.
• The lower part rests on the outside of the side slats. At the same time, parts of the sloping sides are not cut off from the inside, but are bent upwards under the side slats. Actually, this can be done with the upper bars.
• Installation of near-window profiles is carried out by attaching the slopes to the finishing strip and fixing the other edge to the wall sheathing with self-tapping screws.
• Side rails are installed after mounting the horizontal parts.

To design slopes more than 20 cm deep, a set of segments of siding panels is used. In this case, the installation of each slope can be considered as a sheathing of narrow walls or soffits.

• A finishing bar is installed around the perimeter of the window frame.
• An outer corner is installed along the outer perimeter of the crate.
• Siding segments are installed between the corner and finish profiles. When cutting, the size of the temperature gap should be taken into account.
• The corners of the slopes are made using simple corners (simply covered over), or double j-strips are used, as is sometimes done for internal corners. They are installed at an angle to each other butt, one bar fixes the vertical slope, the second - the adjacent horizontal.
• With wide slopes, a low tide is required along the lower part. It is installed before fastening the vertical sides, its side parts are bent up and wound up under the vertical siding elements. This allows high-quality drainage of water and prevents the penetration of drains under the skin.. In depth, the ebb is made 4 cm more than the slope (3 cm - protrude forward for water drainage, and 1 cm - bends for mounting to the window box).

Conclusion

Finishing window openings is one of the most difficult operations when sheathing a house with siding. All questions that arise during the performance of work most often relate to the correct trimming of framing elements and the order in which parts are installed.

Before starting work, it is recommended that you carefully read the manufacturer's instructions that come with the siding. It describes in detail the installation process of all elements and, in particular, specific parts and accessories (if any). After all questions are clarified, there will be no special problems and window openings will be finished properly.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to finish windows with siding:

In contact with

Finishing window slopes from the outside with siding is done after the completion of the main facing work and allows you to give the house a finished and neat look. Siding provides additional insulation of window openings from the external environment.. The installation of this material is quite complicated, since it involves accurate measurements and cutting panels at different angles.

Photo 1. A window is an architectural detail of construction specially conceived in the design of a building: an opening in the wall that serves to let light into the room and ventilation.

Let us consider in detail such stages of facing work as the choice of material, the installation of fasteners, the correct marking and cutting of siding panels.

The choice of material for exterior window trim

Siding for window slopes, as well as facing material for walls, can be of several types:

• metal;
• vinyl;
• wooden (block house).

There are also such types of cladding as ceramic and cement siding, but due to their mechanical properties, they are not very well suited for finishing window openings. As for the color scheme, the slopes look original, which stand out in contrast against the background of the wall (photo 1).

When finishing window slopes from the outside with siding, in addition to the facing material itself, you will need to purchase the following fasteners:

• finishing and window trims;
• H-shaped and J-shaped profile;
• low tides;
• internal and external corners for decorating joints;
• chamfer.

Required Tools

Necessary set of tools for work: hammer, metal building square, hacksaws with fine teeth, tape measure, level, pencil, screwdriver

To install siding slopes, you will need a fairly standard set of tools. It includes a medium-sized hammer, with which it will be convenient to attach the crate and siding to the wall, a metal building square to control compliance with the correct installation angle, hacksaws with fine teeth - one for plastic, the other for metal. To track and mark the vertical position of the slope, a tape measure, a long piece of cord or thick synthetic thread, a construction pencil or chalk are useful. The presence of a powerful screwdriver in your arsenal will significantly speed up the work, since tightening the screws requires a lot of effort. The construction level will help in controlling the quality of siding laying - without it it is difficult to determine the horizontal installation of panels.

Slope installation sequence

Sheathing of slopes begins with an audit of the state of the window openings on which the cladding will be installed. When working on the cladding of a new house, this step can be missed, but if you have taken up the slopes of a building that has been in operation for a long time, be sure to pay attention to the presence of cracks in the walls, as they weaken the adhesion force to the crate. If cracks are found, they should be carefully repaired, and after the putty has dried, apply several layers of deep penetration primer to the surface of the window opening. After the completion of the repair work, a crate is stuffed onto the surface of the wall for attaching the siding.

Corners and profiles for attaching cladding panels should be cut at an angle of 45°. This is done with a conventional hacksaw or a special circular saw with cutting angle control. Such a tool is quite expensive, but for a large number of works it can be rented.

The installation of siding around the window may have some features and differences depending on the position of the window opening relative to the main surface of the wall. Due to the fact that the wall of the house has a layer of sheathing, insulation and cladding, the window can ultimately be recessed into its surface by 5-19 cm. The structure of the slopes, the presence or absence of some fasteners largely depend on this structure.

Figure 1. Slope scheme when the window is flush with the wall

The simplest version of the slopes is obtained when the window frame is level with the wall (Fig. 1). This situation happens in the absence of a layer of insulation, for example, if the house has internal thermal insulation. The traditional concept of slopes for such a window is used conditionally, since plastic platbands with a J-shaped profile are used instead.

It is a little more difficult to slope a window recessed into the wall surface at a distance of up to 19 cm. This value corresponds to the maximum allowable depth of a window frame according to European standards, therefore window trims have a maximum size of up to 22 cm, taking into account a margin of 1.5 cm for connection with profiles and platbands.

Sometimes there are cases when it is necessary to sheathe windows with siding that are deeper than 19 cm. This is especially true for houses located in a cold northern climate, where it is necessary to set a thick layer of thermal insulation. The standard window trim will be too narrow and will not cover the entire slope space. What to do in this case? This issue is solved very simply: the window trim is cut into pieces, the length of which corresponds to the depth of the slope, and is laid not parallel, but perpendicular to the frame. Thus, it is possible to perform a slope of almost any depth. To fix the outer edge of the slats, platbands in the form of corners are used.

Finishing windows with siding with your own hands is quite simple, it is enough to study in detail the sequence of actions and stock up on the necessary materials and tools.

Installation of metal and plastic sills

The lower part of the slope must be equipped with a low tide - an external window sill made of steel, aluminum or plastic. It provides protection of the wall and seams from the penetration of atmospheric precipitation.

A wide window sill from the side of the street will give you the opportunity to decorate it in the summer.

The standard width of the tides is from 90 to 400 mm, which is quite enough even for the deepest slope. When finishing window slopes from the outside with siding, the future installation of the ebb should be taken into account, so the lower part of the window opening may not be sheathed with siding - it will be blocked by an external window sill.

The choice of material for the ebb is a rather important process, since the absence of problems in the operation of openings depends on its result. Modern industry produces several types of ebbs, the most common of which are steel, aluminum and polyester. Each type of such window sills has its own advantages and disadvantages, the features of their use depend on the climate and the material from which the siding is made.

Installation of ebbs is carried out using mounting foam, which ensures the tightness of the coating. The edge of the window sill, which is located near the window, is attached to a recess in the frame specially designed for this. At the same time, the opposite edge should protrude a few centimeters above the slope, ensuring the flow of water to the ground, and not to the wall of the house.

When installing any coating outside the house, you should especially take care of its waterproofing. When atmospheric precipitation penetrates into the heat-insulating layer, the latter loses its properties and quickly becomes unusable. The lower part of the slopes is protected by properly installed ebbs, and the side and top may require a waterproofing layer. If you do not save on the quality of siding, window trims and accessories for their fastening, as well as carefully consider the installation, then waterproofing may not be required, which has been proven by the experience of installing slopes in various situations.

In addition to the presence of a waterproofing layer, high-quality installation of the cladding involves the treatment of all joints with silicone sealant.

Conclusion on the topic

Facing the house should not only protect it from the influence of environmental factors, but also look beautiful and neat.

Properly designed slopes emphasize the thoughtfulness of the appearance of the walls and do not allow water to penetrate under the surface of the siding.

The presence of windows in the house that are not insulated from heat exchange with the street means an increase in heating costs, increases humidity and promotes the development of mold and fungi. Modern materials allow you to negate these problems, providing your home with warmth and comfort.

Installation of such facing building material as siding is a fairly simple matter. However, many are frightened by the very thought that, while doing the specified work on their own, you will inevitably stumble upon an obstacle in the form of an opening called a window. Indeed, there are windows in residential buildings, but this does not mean that the installation of facing material will be difficult.

In fact, installing siding around a window is as easy as the whole process. Let's see what the assembly of this product is.

Training

First of all, it is necessary to prepare all the construction tools that may be needed for an hour of work. Do not underestimate the significance of this moment, because it determines the convenience and ease of all subsequent manipulations.

So, the installation of such a facing building material as siding requires the use of the following working tools:

1. Metal scissors. The material is cut with precise movements from the top edge of the sheet. Be sure to ensure that the mounting holes are located in the right place. In addition to the specified tool, scissors are also useful, with which curly cutting is performed. Without them, the assembly of building materials in arched openings is impossible. When using these items, safety measures must be strictly observed so that the installation of the siding does not cause injury.
2. A hacksaw with fine teeth, designed for woodworking and the same for working with metal.
3. Knife cutter. With the help of this device, the siding is “notched”. The material is then folded several times at the “notch”, causing the panel to break exactly along the strip mentioned above.
4. Hammer and screwdriver.
5. Square. Installing siding around where the window is located requires care. This tool is designed to mark mounting angles directly near windows and on slopes.
6. The level is one and a half meters long, as well as the water level.
7. Chalk, with which all the necessary lines will be marked.
8. Self-tapping screws, with which the siding will be screwed to the wall.

In the following photos you can see which tools are commonly used in these jobs.

The installation of siding around the place where the window is located is also associated with the use of special components.

Accessories

Finishing the wall with siding around the opening in which the window is located is a process of assembling load-bearing profiles made of galvanized metal, as well as installing components for facing work. These elements are special rails that are attached around the entire perimeter of the opening in which the window is located. All of these details are shown in these photos.

In the case when the siding will be installed on the slopes around the window, it is necessary to use double-sided corner profiles.

Installation

Before the siding is attached to the facade of the building, it is necessary to assemble the crate. What the frame looks like can be seen in these photos.

First, preparation is carried out before the frame is attached. The window is prepared for cladding by removing platbands and other elements protruding above the plane of the walls of the building.

After it is precisely determined that the surface of the structure on which the siding is to be mounted is dry, you can begin work.

If there are irregularities on the surface of the wall, they must be covered with plaster. And in the case when the window has rather large slopes, the installation of an angular profile is required. However, it is more profitable to level the slopes with plaster, and then apply a special primer. How it looks is shown in the available photos.

Before you begin to mount the siding, you need to apply markings to the crate. This requires the following tools:

1. A square that determines the size of the corner in the opening where the window is located. It should be 90 degrees.
2. Chalk for marking.
3. A level that serves as a determinant of the presence of irregularities. This is necessary so that you can align the frame, if necessary. Siding is mounted exclusively on a flat surface.
4. Water level (water level). It is intended in this case to determine the level of attachment of the supporting profiles that are located around the window opening.

The installation of building materials around the opening in which the window without slopes is located is carried out in this way:

First you need to determine the distance under the window. On all sides of the opening where the window is located, it is necessary to leave a margin that does not exceed six millimeters. After that, with the help of scissors for metal, the necessary gap is cut. Next, the carrier profile is fixed. A sheet of building material will be inserted into it. These manipulations will help to give aesthetics to the appearance of the house, as shown in the available photos.

After completing all the steps described above, a panel is attached under the window, the width of which corresponds to the width of the opening in which the window is located. It should turn out as shown in the photo.

In the same way, siding is mounted around the entire opening.

More detailed information on how siding is mounted around the opening in which the window is located can be found in this video.

If a decision is made to perform it on their own, then many are confused by whether they can install the material around window and door openings. Of course, window siding has its own characteristics, but if you wish, you can do this work yourself.

Fittings for mounting

The quality and beauty of finishing window and door openings largely depends on high-quality fittings for fasteners. Before finishing the window with siding, purchasing the material, it is advisable to immediately buy the original fasteners offered by the manufacturer of this particular finishing material. It is also desirable to calculate the required number of fasteners in advance.

Calculation of the necessary fittings for fastening panels

In order not to buy the necessary materials later, besides, it can be difficult to find strips of the same color and the same manufacturer, we calculate the material consumption in advance. To do this, we measure all window and door openings around the perimeter.

Only the distance under the windows is not taken into account, since a window sill and ebbs will be installed in this place. We add up all the obtained values ​​\u200b\u200band take a margin for trimming about ten percent.

Although the price of quality elements is rather big, it is not worth saving on this. The beauty and strength of the cladding depends on what decorative elements will be used. The easiest way to calculate the required amount of material is if there is a drawing plan.

Looking at the cladding scheme, you can immediately decide which fasteners can be replaced with more economical options. And which ones can you do without?

Important. Having decided to do the finishing with your own hands, you will also have to purchase the materials yourself. And sellers often try to offer the buyer the maximum number of fasteners he does not need (this is their job). Therefore, knowing what you need, you can save a lot.

fastener elements

Finishing window openings with siding requires the following fasteners:

• H-profile;
• J-profile - a universal element that can be used instead of a window trim and other elements;
• Corner outer and inner for decorating the joint of panels;
• finishing bar;
• Chamfer:
• low tides;
• Window plank.

It is advisable to choose fasteners that match the color and texture of the cladding panels. Or, if it is intended by the design concept, the fittings may differ in contrast from the color of the main finish.

Features of installing siding around windows

Since the architecture of each house is individual, the window openings can be completely different. Finishing window slopes with siding and its features depend on the configuration of the window.

There are three main types of windows relative to walls:

• The windows are recessed into the wall by five to nineteen centimeters;
• The window opening is located on the wall without slopes;
• The slopes of the windows are more than nineteen centimeters;
• Arched or lancet window openings.

Naturally, the installation of siding in each of these options will be different.

Slopes around window openings less than nineteen centimeters

Since, according to European building codes, slopes are made no more than nineteen centimeters, the window bar has a standard size - up to twenty-two centimeters.

To attach the window trim to the frame, a finishing profile is used, into which the window trim is inserted. Finishing a window with do-it-yourself siding using a window trim is not at all a complicated process.

If desired, the window trim can be replaced with cheaper fittings - chamfer and J-profile (as you can see, this fastener can be used in almost all window trim options).

Slopes around windows more than nineteen centimeters

But building standards in Russia differ from European ones, so the slope around the window and door opening can be much larger than nineteen centimeters. In this case, window siding involves the use of external corners, which are mounted around the perimeter of the window opening.

A universal J-bar is exposed near the frame, and an outer corner along the perimeter of the window opening. The slope is decorated with siding panels cut to size, which are inserted into the grooves of the fittings around the window opening.

Windows without slopes

The easiest option for self-assembly of panels.

For finishing, you can choose a platband with a width of 6.2 centimeters, then the window openings will be emphasized in the design of the facade. First, a platband is installed, and trim panels are inserted into it.

If the design involves an inconspicuous window trim, then it is better to choose a narrow J-profile for fastening the siding around the windows. When finishing window openings with siding is done independently, then it is quite possible to choose the option that suits the cost and decor.

Arched or lancet windows

Siding manufacturers recommend using a flexible J-profile for arched windows, but it can be replaced with a standard one. It’s just that during installation it needs to be cut a little, exposing it around the window opening, as shown in Figure 6.

Important. Arched window siding is trimmed with profile trimming every twenty centimeters. This will prevent cracking of the hardware.

On the Internet, you can find a lot of photo and video materials with step-by-step instructions for installing siding around window and door openings. Therefore, let's pay attention to the most basic principles that should be followed when installing material around windows.

Useful information is contained in the article.

Features of installing siding around window openings

Finishing window openings with siding according to the instructions requires the following conditions to be met:

• Fasteners (self-tapping screws or dowels) must be galvanized to prevent rust;
• Fasteners should not be screwed tightly into the panel, leaving a gap for the expansion of the material of one millimeter;
• Mounting screws should be screwed in straight, and in no case at an angle;
• The self-tapping screw must be screwed clearly in the middle of the fastener hole in the material panels. If this condition is not adhered to, then the panel or fittings can easily crack or deform;
• The corners when connecting the fittings are cut to forty-five degrees;
• The part of the fittings adjacent to the slope at one docked plank is cut at an angle, and at the other it is wrapped. This is required for a tighter connection of the elements, without gaps and cracks;

• For a more durable and reliable fastening under the window, it is worth installing the final bar, which will securely fix the panel.
• Since the outside of the finish is exposed to adverse weather conditions (rain and wind), the fasteners must be tightly joined;

We conclude that do-it-yourself window siding is doable. The main thing is to follow the installation instructions and not neglect the basic requirements. When installing the cladding on your own, you can significantly save money and perform an original and spectacular facade decor. There would be free time and a desire to show imagination and creativity.

Gives it a neat and attractive look. This process is quite simple and can be performed without the involvement of builders. Facing such elements of the house as window openings should be carried out according to existing technology. This small area will require careful measurements and precise trimming of the material. Let's figure out how to sheathe a window with siding.

Do-it-yourself steel and vinyl siding is offered for cladding buildings. Metal finishes are heavier and more expensive, so plastic material is more commonly used. It is resistant to all weather collisions - precipitation, wind, high and low temperatures, lasts a long time and is easy to clean when dirty.

Regardless of the choice of material, the installation of siding on window slopes follows the same pattern.

Training

Before sheathing a window, you must purchase all the fittings and accessories:

• profile elements;
• low tide;
• corner for finishing joints;
• chamfer;
• window and finishing strip.

Fasteners and siding must be from the same manufacturer. Only original fasteners are used, otherwise the lining will not be of high quality. Purchase the required amount of material and accessories at a time, since the finished siding often differs in shade from the main one. You can calculate the required amount according to the drawn up drawing. For calculation, the perimeter of the window is measured and 10% is added for trimming. Siding fasteners are made with self-tapping screws.

Before the start of the sheathing, the surface of the slopes is prepared, and if necessary, plaster is applied. The surface is primed to protect slopes from microorganisms. Work on the cladding begin after drying.

Tools

1. Metal shears for cutting siding.
2. Angle for marking.
3. Hammer for mounting the crate.
4. Level.
5. Two hacksaws: for metal and woodworking.
6. Knife for cutting the fold of the siding panel.
7. Cord and chalk for beating levels.

Window protection

Initially, it is necessary to protect window openings from precipitation. To do this, an apron made of aluminum foil or thin iron is installed around the perimeter. The strips are superimposed on each other, smeared with sealant and nailed. The edge is protected with aluminum tape. The manufactured apron is not attached to the window frame.

1. "At the corner." Four J-profiles are selected according to the height and width of the window. The ends of the top bar and the lower part of the side profile are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. Only the front part is cut off, the inner corner is not affected. An incision is made along the width of the upper profile for water drainage and is bent into a side profile, which is wound under the upper one. The connection of all parts of the frame is made with a gap of up to 5 mm for thermal expansion. The drainage is attached to the mounting foam and is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.
2. "Overlap". The top, bottom and two side J-profiles are taken. The top element is cut in width and folded inward to drain water. The bent edge is inserted into the side profile. A gap of 3-5 mm is observed between the elements, giving room for expansion. The lower profile is inserted with a gap of 2–3 mm.

If the recess of the window opening is less than 19 cm, you can use a specially made window strip. Its edges are covered with a finishing profile or a J-profile with a chamfer.

Windows with slopes exceeding a width of 20 cm

Work begins with the installation of low tide. It runs 2 cm wider than the slopes. In the manufacture of a metal tide to fit the window, the side parts are not cut off completely, the remaining strips are unbent vertically and fastened with self-tapping screws to the walls. Before fixing the ebb, liquid nails are applied to the area adjacent to the wall.

In the case when the window is deepened by more than 20 cm, a crate is installed. A right angle is determined and the starting profile is screwed along it. The slopes are lined with siding, and the perimeter joints are closed with an outer corner.

No gaps should be left at the points of attachment to the siding profiles; the fixation must be rigid.

When facing a semicircular window, a flexible J-profile is used. In the absence of an elastic element, you can take a regular one and notch along the bar. When attaching the profile, a step of 15 cm is observed.

Rules that can't be ignored

• You need to purchase only galvanized self-tapping screws, as they do not rust from moisture.
• Tighten fasteners at a right angle, any distortions reduce the strength of the structure.
• Holes for self-tapping screws have an elongated shape, which ensures the mobility of fasteners during expansion. Tighten the self-tapping screw not completely, leave a gap of 1 mm.
• The gaps between the profiles allow the structure to expand without problems when heated.

Installation of siding near window openings is a difficult section of cladding, in order to know how to properly finish, you can familiarize yourself with the video tutorial.

Video

This video shows how to trim a window with siding with your own hands:

Photo