A metal tile is a practical, reliable and affordable roof covering. Currently, there are many of its brands. Now the most popular is the metal tile "Monterrey" (installation instructions will be presented below). What is this material? Further in the article we will talk about this coating, "Monterrey" and its analogues will be given.

Main classification

This product has three main options:

1. Maxi.
2. Standard.
3. Super.

The above types are slightly different from each other. In particular, the magnitude of the profile and the step of the wave are different.

Main advantages

As mentioned earlier, this roofing is currently very popular. Its affordable price is one of its main advantages. Also, this coating differs in a number of other positive qualities. This material very resistant to corrosion. In addition, throughout the entire period of operation, it perfectly retains its original color.

light weight

This advantage is significant. Square meter cover weighs approximately 5 kg. Thanks to this, installation work is greatly facilitated. In addition, much lower costs will be required by the entire Instruction for the installation of the coating does not provide for additional reinforcement.

High speed and ease of work

Many are attracted by the Monterrey metal tile. Installation, the instructions for which are quite simple, is carried out quite quickly. A medium-sized roof can be completely covered in a couple of days. This is due to the simplicity of the technology. It is quite possible to equip the roof on your own. Currently, many use the Monterrey metal tile as a roofing material. The installation instructions for the material are so clear that laying can be done with your own hands.

External attractiveness

The use of this material provides wide opportunities for design. The Monterrey metal tile is distinguished by a wide variety of colors and textures. The installation manual is a description of the laying technology. Using imagination and following the recommendations, you can bring to life bold and original design projects. It is also worth noting that this material is safe from the point of view of fire protection and ecology.

Features of the roofing "pie"

It is well known that the roof should effectively protect inner space buildings from bad weather. It is also expected that its service life will be quite long. In this case, there is a need proper arrangement"pie" before the Monterrey metal tile will be laid. The installation instructions must be followed exactly. "Pie" includes several layers. None of them can be ruled out. Otherwise, the quality of the roof will inevitably deteriorate.

Most often, the "pie" includes the following:

1. Outer layer (metal tile "Monterrey").
2. Frame (the crate on which the material is laid).
3. Waterproof film.
4. Design for ventilation (designed for the space between the waterproofing and the crate).
5. Internal lining.
6. Vapor barrier layer (a film that prevents steam from entering the interior of the house into the insulation layer).
7. Thermal insulation.
8. Internal counter-lattice (designed to ventilate the space between waterproofing film and insulation layer).

Preparatory work

They need to be taken care of before the Monterrey metal tile is laid. Installation instructions (what are the preparatory work, will be described below) involves careful work with the roof structure. The final result will depend on the quality of preparation. If it is planned to lay metal tiles on the roof during the repair of the roof, then, first of all, the old coating is removed. Then you need to pay attention to checking the correct shape of the slopes. This is also done with new structures when building a house. Next, the width and length of the slope are measured. In some cases, slight deviations may be detected. Additional elements will help correct this situation.

frame

The instruction for the metal tile "Monterrey" indicates the need for arranging the supporting structure for the coating. To install the internal counter-lattice, you will need bars with a cross section of 50 mm. They are stuffed on rafter legs. Waterproofing is laid over the counter-lattice. Previously, materials similar to roofing material were used for this. Nowadays, more and more preference is given to modern products. We are talking about waterproofing microperforated films. Their laying is done quite freely. A small gap is made. However, the film must not touch insulation material. An external counter-lattice is neatly attached from above. The technology is similar to the arrangement of the internal frame. Next, you need to build a crate. This is a structure on which Monterrey metal tiles are laid. For construction, boards treated with an antiseptic should be used.

Necessary calculations

The recommended size of the boards used in the construction of the crate is 32x100 mm, provided that the rafter spacing is up to 900 mm. If this value is greater, then it will be necessary to use boards of a different section. The size of the metal tile should be taken into account when choosing the spacing of the crate. The distance between the first and second (from the cornice) is up to 300 mm. When arranging the rest, the step of the tile wave is taken into account. The features of the selected material are also taken into account.

Important Information

When installing the end element, certain nuances should be taken into account. The plank must necessarily rise above the plane of the crate at a distance equal to the height of the wave profile of the metal tile. The dimensions of this protrusion are 40 mm. In the case of using "Monterrey" type super or standard, the recommended pitch of the crate is 350 mm, maxi - 400 mm. The most difficult ones involve the installation of a continuous crate. We are talking about the places where the chimney pipes exit, the formation of internal corners, and so on. In the latter, valleys must be installed. They are ready-made elements roofs. Installation is carried out with an overlap of up to 100 mm. Internal aprons must be mounted at the exit points of the chimneys. For this, junction bars are used.

Sheet stacking features

This work can be started after completion preparatory phase. Laying is carried out in one or two rows vertically. It depends on the height of the slope. If there are few joints of roofing material on the roof, then the coating looks more reliable. However, the carriage long sheets And working with them brings a lot of inconvenience.

Main nuances

According to the manufacturer's recommendations for installation work do not use sheets longer than 4 meters. In this case, laying can be done both from right to left, and in reverse order. However, there are some things to consider here as well. If we are talking about laying on the left side, then the overlap of the sheets must be formed by placing the next element in the row under the previous one. Installation of metal tiles "Monterey" in reverse side done differently. The width of the overlap in both cases will be the same - 150 mm.

The first sheet is laid on the roof. In this case, the protrusion from the eaves should be 50 mm. Due to this, an overhang is formed. Its main task is to prevent rain moisture from getting under roofing materials. The sheet must be carefully aligned. It is fixed at the top with a single screw. You need to make sure that it is easy to move it. Then you can start laying the next sheet. Do not forget about the width of the overlap - 150 mm. It must be carefully aligned. Then the sheet is screwed with self-tapping screws to the previous element. At the same time, it is not fixed to the crate. Laying one or two subsequent sheets is carried out in a similar way. Next, you will need to work with the finished block, which consists of 3-4 elements fastened to each other. It must be aligned with the eaves. Only then can you begin to fix the sheets on the crate.

Additional Information

Do-it-yourself installation of Monterrey metal tiles is carried out using special self-tapping screws, which are equipped with sealing washers made of special grades of rubber. must be screwed into the places of wave deflection. For 1 sq. m. cover you need eight elements. You should also pay attention to bypassing the chimney. According to the information contained in the installation instructions for the Monterrey metal tile, the installation of external and internal aprons is required. Manufacturers strongly recommend not to ignore these points. The inner apron must be installed before laying the roofing material. To create it, it is necessary to use special adjoining strips. A tighter pipe connection requires silicone sealant. Installation of the outer apron is carried out after laying the sheets. For this, elements are used that are painted in the color of the roofing. Connections to vertical walls arranged in a similar way. The recommended overlap is also 100 mm. Installation of additional accessories is the final stage of installation. In particular, this applies to devices for snow retention, antenna output, and so on. During installation protective covering from the sheets must be removed. In the future, this will be very difficult to do. In some cases, cutting of sheets is required. In this case, the use of elements with abrasive wheels is prohibited. The fact is that in the process of cutting these materials, heating must be excluded. It destroys the protective coating of the metal roof. In such a situation, it is best to use metal shears to cut sheets when it comes to the longitudinal direction. For cross cutting of material, the use of a hacksaw or electric jigsaw is recommended. In order for the metal tile to last as long as possible, the cut points are painted over with paint.

Recently, metal tiles have been increasingly used for arranging the roofing part. The material is supplied in the form of profiled sheets with polymer coated. If desired, you can independently perform the installation of metal tiles. Step-by-step instructions will help you do this without serious mistakes.

Works on laying fragments of roofing

Products are based on steel sheet 0.45-0.55 mm thick. It is galvanized and has a special coating based on polymers. The cost of production may vary depending on the thickness of the metal and the type of protective layer.

Enumeration of merits

First of all, it is necessary to highlight the following advantages:

• aesthetic appeal;
• weather resistance;
• affordable cost;
• lightness of the main elements.

Note! Polymer coatings perform not only a protective, but also a decorative function, since their color range can vary over a fairly wide range.

A few shortcomings

Since the sheets have a small thickness with enough large sizes, the risk of damage to them during careless installation still exists. Subject to all the rules, the integrity of the elements is difficult to violate.

Another disadvantage is the appearance of a noise effect during heavy rain during operation. However, with the correct soundproofing living space, this minus is completely excluded.

Related article:

Assembly tools

In advance, you need to prepare a set of tools and accessories for the work:

Note! It is forbidden to cut sheets using abrasive wheels, as high temperature exposure leads to the destruction of not only the polymer, but also the zinc layer.

Basic set of additional parts

The step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles should mention essential elements used with sheets. They are used depending on the roof configuration and operational features.

It is suggested to take a look at the list of basic parts:

• a skate is required to close the upper joint between two slopes;
• the end plank is necessary to decorate the edges from the side of the gable overhangs;
• the valley is installed at the places where the slopes coincide;
• the eaves plank is attached from the side of the gutters;
• the junction bar is mounted in the presence of a pipe and other protruding structures;
• a snow retaining element is needed to prevent snow from sliding off the roof.

Installation instructions for metal tiles: step-by-step execution of work

Loading and unloading of products can be carried out manually, but a certain number of people must be involved in the course of work. Usually 1 person is required for 1.5-2 running meters sheet length. That is, when unloading metal fragments with a length of 6 m, 3-4 people should be present.

Waterproofing device and fixation of control bars

If thermal insulation will be laid between the rafters, then waterproofing material must be present in any case. It is fastened with brackets to the bearing part of the roof. The canvases are spread across the rafter legs with an overlap of at least 15 cm along all slopes.

Bars 50x50 mm are nailed directly along the rafters, providing a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material. For fixing, nails of at least 90 mm are used.

Proper installation of the crate under the metal tile

As a crate, a cut board 25 mm thick and 100 mm wide is usually used, but the final choice will depend on the pitch of the rafters. The elements are attached to the bars 50x50 mm using nails with a length of at least 70 mm. The distance between the boards depends on the wavelength of the metal tile used.

At the installation site of the ridge element, it is recommended to install two strips close to each other. This will simplify the installation of the ridge on the metal tile. In the same way, you should do in the places where the valleys are attached. The bottom board of the crate should be higher than the rest by the height of the wave. Usually the thickness of the lining is enough to compensate for the difference.

Installation of parts mounted up to sheets

To protect the ventilated space under the roof from the penetration of moisture and street debris, metal tile cornice strips are installed. An additional ventilation tape must be attached to the ends of the 50x50 mm bars.

When installing the valley, a universal seal is laid. The bottom edge of the element should be on the surface of the cornice board. At the junction horizontally, an overlap of at least 30 cm is made.

Stroking a brick chimney implies a conclusion waterproofing membrane not less than 50 mm. A strobe is made in the pipe itself, the depth of which should be at least 15 mm. Water is diverted to a valley located in the immediate vicinity.

The process of laying and fastening sheets

All sheets must be aligned horizontally with a 50 mm outlet for the crate. When fixing metal elements the following points should be followed:

• the self-tapping screw must be installed in the deflection of the wave, where the sheet is adjacent to the crate;
• fastening to the bottom board is carried out above the step directly through the wave;
• along the edge of the slope, fasteners are screwed into each wave.

Installation of end strips and ridge

Elements for closing end joints are mounted in the direction from the cornice overhang to the ridge. The overlap on adjacent planks should be 10 cm. The recommended spacing between fasteners is 35 cm.

As for the skate, it is fixed in the upper crest of every second wave. When building up the elements, an overlap of at least 15 cm is left. A self-adhesive sealing tape is attached along the entire length.

Additional instructions for installing snow guards on metal tiles

The number of elements for holding snowdrifts on the roof is selected taking into account the geometry of the roof. In areas of high snow scraping, two rows can be installed metal profiles. Pass type snow guards are optimal solution for individual buildings. They are attached using long self-tapping screws to the crate itself through

How to lay a metal tile? This question is asked by almost all developers who have chosen this modern, practical and durable material. We will try our best in detail to tell what technology of installation of metal tiles is recommended by its manufacturers and what scheme of installation of metal tiles is most preferable.

The main advantages of metal tile modules are - good strength and high fire resistance properties.

In addition, you will learn how the roofing "pie" works, what materials and tools will be needed to build the roof, and much more. We hope that our instructions for laying metal tiles will be useful to both developers and builders, regardless of whether you are building a house or making a canopy from metal tiles.

Metal tile: installation technology

A design made according to this scheme, with the proper selection of materials, will provide you with a reliable and durable roof.

Briefly about the roofing "pie". Before starting the installation of a metal tile (you can download the video or watch it a little lower), let's recall some concepts and a diagram of a roofing "pie". It got its name from a large number layers with different functions. It is this design, with the proper selection of materials, that will provide you with a reliable and durable roof.

Regardless of whether you do the installation of metal tiles with your own hands or hire installers, it is important to clearly understand that the roof is quite complex structure, during the construction of which it is necessary to strictly follow the recommendations for the installation of metal tiles, which are given by manufacturers, as well as all building codes and regulations.

Constantly keep under control the entire installation of metal tiles (you can download the video instruction or watch it here), since the consequences of poor-quality work may not appear immediately. So, poorly laid steam and waterproofing can lead to the accumulation of condensate, deterioration of thermal insulation properties, rotting wooden elements designs. Keep in mind that, only by observing all the rules for installing metal tiles, you can build a reliable and durable roof.

Metal tile and installation structural elements produced according to the following sequence (scheme N 1):

The technology of installation of a roof made of metal tiles implies mandatory protection of the insulation from the side of the MCH with the help of film waterproofing, and from the side of the premises - film vapor barrier.

1. Rafter system.
2. Counter rails.
3. Waterproofing film.
4. Bars of a vertical crate.
5. The initial bar of the horizontal crate.
6. Bars of a horizontal lathing.
7. Additional crate.
8. Wind board.
9. Gutter bracket.
10. Cornice plank.
11. Metal tile.
12. Roof ridge.
13. Skate seal.
14. Hearing window.
15. Thermal insulation.
16. Vapor barrier.
17. Attic lining.

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Installation instructions for metal tiles (Monterrey and its analogues)

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Tools and equipment

Installation of Monterrey metal tile and its analogues must begin with the preparation of the necessary tool. You will need:

1. Manual scissors for metal.
2. Hacksaw (with fine teeth).
3. Cutting shears for metal.
4. Special nozzle for a drill for cutting metal.
5. Electric nibblers.
6. Electric jigsaw.
7. Circular saw.
8. Bulgarian with an abrasive wheel.

• tool for cutting sheets of metal (MCH);
• screwdriver (preferably cordless);
• hammer of medium size;
• long straight rail or rule;
• marker.

• scissors for metal (manual and electric);
• hacksaw or electric reciprocating saw with the corresponding canvases;
• electric cutting shears;
• jigsaw;
• circular saw with victorious teeth.

At the end of the work, carefully remove the metal filings, otherwise they, rusting, will spoil the polymer coating of the MP.

Attention! In no case do not cut the metal tile with tools with abrasive wheels ("grinder"). Otherwise under the influence high temperatures not only the polymer layer will be destroyed, but also the zinc coating. The result will be disappointing: a rapid rusting process will begin, rusty streaks will appear on your roof.

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Installation of metal tiles (Monterey and analogues)

If thermal insulation boards have already been purchased, then the pitch of the rafters will depend on their width, since subsequently the insulation will be inserted between the roof rafters.

The step of the rafters under the metal tile should be in the range of 550-900 mm. Keep in mind that if you have already purchased thermal insulation boards, then the pitch of the rafters will depend on their width, since subsequently the insulation will be inserted between the roof rafters. As a material for rafters, as a rule, a bar with a section of 150x50 mm is chosen.

After the rafters are installed, it is necessary to perform control measurements of the slopes. Check the squareness and flatness of the structure, for this, measure the diagonals of the slopes. Small deviations (up to 10 mm) are acceptable, they can later be hidden with additional elements.

Please note that if a metal tile is used for the roof, the slope of the slope must be at least 14 °. The length of the sheets is determined by the main size - the length of the slope. It is measured from the ridge to the eaves, taking into account the eaves overhang (at least 40 mm). If your slope is more than 6 m long, then the sheets must be broken into two or more pieces, which are then laid with an overlap. The overlap of the metal tile should be about 150 mm. Of course, when using long sheets on a slope, fewer joints are obtained, but it is much more difficult to lay them than short ones.

The length of the insulation should be 2-3 cm more than the distance between the rafters.

With diurnal temperature fluctuations, condensation may appear on the lower surface of the MP. Also warm air from the house, containing moisture vapor, penetrates into the cold under-roof space. Excess moisture leads to wetting of the insulation layer, and consequently, its thermal performance deteriorates. As a result, the roof freezes, ice forms on the metal tile, rafters and crates rot, mold appears and collapses. interior decoration premises.

To avoid all these troubles, the installation manual for metal tiles of any manufacturer strongly recommends using insulation of the required thickness. In addition, the technology of installation of a roof made of metal tiles implies mandatory protection of the insulation from the side of the MCH with the help of film waterproofing, and from the side of the premises - film vapor barrier.

To remove moisture vapor from the under-roof space, it is necessary to create natural ventilation, that is, to provide free movement air from the roof eaves to its ridge. To do this, between the MCH and the waterproofing film, by means of the crate, leave free space(about 40 mm). On the cornice overhangs, when they are hemmed, gaps are left, and in rubber seal special holes are released from the ridge.

Roll out the waterproofing horizontally on the rafters. Start from the eaves, making a sag of about 20 mm. Make an overlap between adjacent panels (approximately 150 mm). Films of the Yutafol or Yutacon brand should be placed outward with the side that has a colored strip along the edge. Flipping the film is not allowed. On the market today you can find a sufficient number of certain roofing films. Consult with managers about the features of their application.

1. Rafter leg.
2. waterproofing material.
3. Control grid.
4. Lathing.

After installing the waterproofing material, it is possible to simultaneously lay the roof covering on the outside and thermal insulation inside the building. Install heat-insulating plates between the rafters, leaving a gap of at least 20 mm for the Yutafol or Yutacon waterproofing, otherwise the film will lose its properties. If you purchased Tyvek or Yutavek brand film, there is no need to make a gap.

On the internal surfaces rafters with a stapler, fix the vapor barrier "Yutafol H Silver" or "Yutafol H 110". Lay the vapor barrier sheets with an overlap, hermetically connecting them with adhesive tape. After completing this stage of work, you can begin inner lining(if it is an attic floor).

Carry out the crate from antiseptic-treated beams with a section of 50x50 mm and edged boards 32x100 mm (approximate values). First, nail falling beams onto the rafters over the waterproofing film from the ridge to the eaves, and then fasten the batten boards on them.

Take the first board of the crate (if you count from the cornice) thicker than the others (about 10-15 mm). Now the most important thing is to maintain the necessary distances between the boards. If you have a Monterrey metal tile, the installation of the second board must be carried out, stepping back from the bottom edge of the first board 300 mm (measure to the middle of the second board being nailed).

Before mounting the metal tile, in the inner junction of the slopes, the bottom bar of the valley is fastened with self-tapping screws to the solid crate. If the planks need to be joined, an overlap is made (100-150 mm).

The same distance for MCH "MP Maxi" is 350 mm. The center distance of all subsequent boards of the crate (32x100 mm) for the "Monterey" or "Supermonterey" MCH is 350 mm, for the "Maxi" MCH - 400 mm. If you have made a rafter pitch of more than 1000 mm, use thicker batten boards.

Perform a continuous crate in the valleys, near the chimneys, along the perimeter of the dormers and dormers. On both sides of the ridge, nail two additional edged boards, and lift the end strips above the ordinary crate, to a height equal to the height of the MCH profile.

Before mounting the metal tile, in the inner junction of the slopes on a continuous crate, fasten the bottom bar of the valley with self-tapping screws. If the planks need to be joined, overlap (about 100-150 mm). Then mark and cut (if necessary) the MCH sheets. Mount the metal tile from the bottom up.

On top at the junction of sheets (it rarely looks beautiful) install decorative element- the top bar of the valley. Attention! Junction nodes are the weakest point of the roof. Therefore, so that later you do not have to repair metal tiles, approach their device especially carefully.

To ensure a hermetic adjoining of the roof from the MCH to the chimneys and walls, an internal apron is made on the slope. Use the lower junction bars for its manufacture. Attach the plank to the pipe wall and mark the top edge of the plank on the brick. Then, along the marked line with the help of a grinder, punch a strobe. After chasing is completed, remove dust and rinse the working section of the wall with water.

Start installing the inner apron from the wall of the pipe located on the underside of the slope (from the side of the eaves, not the ridge). Cut the bar in place, install and secure with self-tapping screws. Using the same principle, install the apron on all remaining sides of the pipe. If you have to join the planks, overlap (about 150 mm). Process the edge of the apron wound into the strobe silicone sealant(it is better if it is colorless).

Fasten the gutter holders to the bottom board of the crate. Their method of attachment and pitch is determined by the type of drainage system used.

Then, under the lower edge of the inner apron, put flat sheet, the so-called tie, which will ensure the flow of water. Direct the tie either into the valley or down to the roof eaves. Along the edge of the tie, using pliers and a hammer, make a rim.

Mount MCH sheets on top of the apron and tie. After laying the roof covering around chimney, proceed to the manufacture and installation of the outer apron. For its manufacture, use the upper junction bars. Install them in the same way as the lower ones, only do not insert the upper edge into the strobe, but fasten it directly to the wall.

Attention! All movements on the roof from the MCH must be carried out only if safety measures are observed. Wear soft, comfortable, non-slip shoes. Step only into the deflection of the wave. Put on the installer's belt and fasten the tether.

Fasten the gutter holders to the bottom board of the crate. Their method of attachment and pitch is determined by the type of drainage system used. So read the instructions that come with it. Pay special attention to the location of the edge of the gutter. It should be below the edge of the metal tile by 25-30 mm. This is necessary to maintain the integrity of the gutters when snow layers leave the roof.

If drainage system has a rectangular cross section, the gutter is simply inserted and fixed in the holders. The cornice strip is attached to the roof lathing, while the lower edge of the strip overlaps the edge of the gutter. The waterproofing film is removed above the eaves (to drain condensate).

When installing the gutter round section you need to bring its rear edge into the locking protrusion on the holder. The cornice strip is installed according to the above method. Roofing film is also displayed above the cornice strip.

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Installation of metal tiles - instructions for installing skylights

The number of windows required for a comfortable attic lighting level can be determined by the ratio usable area glazing to the area of ​​the room. Values ​​from 1:8 to 1:12 are recommended.

Let's make a small digression and consider the option of a roof with skylights. The number of windows required for a comfortable level of attic lighting can be determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the area of ​​the room. Values ​​from 1:8 to 1:12 are recommended. That is, if your attic has an area of ​​\u200b\u200b100 sq.m, then total area windows should be 10 sq.m. It is recommended to install skylights at a height of 90-110 cm from the floor level. When choosing windows, also consider that two windows small size, located at some distance, will give more light than one big one.

In addition, you can install skylights in groups, horizontally, vertically or in combination. As a rule, windows are installed on the crate with simultaneous fastening to the rafters. Although there may be some peculiarities depending on the manufacturer skylights. If the horizontal dimensions of the window do not match the pitch of the rafters, a partial change will be required. roof structure. In this case, it is recommended to install a rafter fragment and additional horizontal counter rails that fix it. The opening under the window should exceed its dimensions by 40-60 mm in the horizontal plane and by 45 mm in the vertical plane. Usually the installation of skylights is not difficult, since each window has detailed installation instructions.

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The first sheet is aligned along the end of the roof and is fixed with one self-tapping screw in the upper part. At the same time, a visor made of metal tiles (removal) of the order of 40 mm is made at the eaves.

Align the first sheet along the end of the roof and secure with one self-tapping screw in the upper part. At the same time, make a visor of metal tiles (removal) of about 40 mm at the eaves. Lay the second sheet with an overlap on the first (if you are mounting from right to left) or bring the edge of the second sheet under the first - when mounting from left to right.

Between themselves, connect the sheets with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the overlap, while not screwing them to the crate and provide them with the opportunity to move relative to the self-tapping screw holding the first sheet in the upper, ridge part.

Lay the third sheet in the same way as the second. Align all three sheets connected to each other parallel to the eaves. If it is necessary to join the sheets along the length, lay them in the order indicated in Figure B. Attention! If your metal tile is equipped with protective film be sure to remove it during installation.

Fasten the lower part of the sheet with self-tapping screws to the sole of the MCH wave. Step through the wave. Arrange the subsequent rows of self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern, also alternating them through the wave. Fasten the side overlaps of the sheets with self-tapping screws for each ridge. Estimated consumption self-tapping screws during the installation of metal tiles - 6-8 pieces / sq.m of roofing.

Attention! When buying a metal tile, check with the supplier for the terms of the guarantee. The fact is that some manufacturers provide a guarantee for the MCH only if they use self-tapping screws of a strictly defined brand. Therefore, advice: buy self-tapping screws from a metal tile supplier.

At the ends of the roof, install end strips with an overlap of 50 mm. Fix them with self-tapping screws through 550-600 mm. Use self-tapping screws 80 mm long on the top, 28 mm on the side. Trim the planks if necessary.

Under the ridge, a curly seal must be placed, after releasing the ventilation holes.

Skate bars can be flat or round. Start installing the round ridge bar by fixing flat or conical plugs on its ends with self-tapping screws or rivets (choose their shape in accordance with the shape of your roof). For a flat ridge, no plugs are required.

Place a curly seal under the ridge, after releasing the ventilation holes. Install a flat or round ridge on the laid seal. Place ridge screws 80 mm long through the MCH wave. Make an overlap of 100 mm between the individual ridge panels.

The metal tile is roofing material, having the form of profiled steel sheets with a polymer coating. It is applied to a covering of roofs with an angle more than 14 degrees.

Outwardly, it looks like a classic ceramic tile, but surpasses it in reliability and ease of installation. In this article, we looked at which is better, ?

Material stable to temperature fluctuations and other negative climatic influences. Its main disadvantage is low soundproofing characteristics, but it is eliminated with proper work.

In this article, you will learn how to make a metal tile roof with your own hands, step by step from A to Z. If you do not know how to choose a metal tile, then.

This stage of work should be given special attention, since it will be on the crate. Also, this design provides natural interior roof space.

1. Metal roofing is made from wooden beam. Mutual arrangement boards can be solid and thinned.
2. Most commonly used sparse constructions, while the distance between the boards () is strictly tied to the distance between the lower depressions of the waves of the tiles, since in these places the material has the greatest strength.
3. Distance between the first two bars from the side of the slope should be approximately 70 centimeters less than the established step.
4. The minimum thickness and width of the board for the crate are 25 and 100 mm respectively.
5. The width of the board for the counter-lattice can be half as much. The first board from the edge of the roof should be 15-20 mm thicker than all the others.

NOTE!

boards pre calibrated in one size to avoid future distortions and irregularities in the location of the tiles.

Lathing step

The installation of the structure is carried out after completion . The main crate is attached to the counter-crate, which is connected to the truss frame with self-tapping screws. Additional support boards are laid on the roof ridge under the metal tile.

Calculation of metal tiles

Count required amount material for building a roof is produced like this (or use):

When counting the number of sheets in a row, you need to keep in mind the value overlap, which can reach 15-20 centimeters.

To ensure that there is no shortage of material, it is best to round all values ​​up.

Roof calculation

Metal roofing: waterproofing and vapor barrier

Before proceeding with the installation of metal tiles with your own hands, you should take care of isolation . Protection internal spaces from liquid provided with layers of vapor barrier and waterproofing.

The waterproofing is located between the rafters and the counter-lattice and prevents moisture from entering the inside of the roofing pie. environment. Most common waterproof materials are polyethylene and reinforced films. They are stretched over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope with slight sagging. It is important to ensure that the waterproofing does not intersect with thermal insulation.

roofing cake

Vapor barrier is a protective layer does not let moisture into the interior of the roof generated in the premises. This is the most bottom layer roofing cake, it is located under the rafters (it is attached to them) and thermal insulation, thereby providing its protection from condensation.

A mansard roof made of metal tiles must be vapor-insulated with high quality; in cold roofs without insulation, installing a vapor barrier is not necessary.

Necessary tools and equipment

Covering the roof with metal tiles begins with training necessary tools . To install a metal roof, you will need:

• Screwdriver.
• Rail.
• Metal shears or other metal cutting devices such as nibblers, circular saws, etc.
• Construction stapler.
• Roulette and marker.
• The components of the roof and roofing cake: tile sheets, self-tapping screws, hydro-, steam- and heat-insulating materials, beams for battens and rafters.

NOTE!

When working with tiles you can't use grinder and other abrasive cutting tools, since it breaks the structure of the sheet.

Fastening and laying metal tiles - step by step

How to cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands? Metal tile on self-tapping screws with a gasket made of ethylene-propylene rubber, which provides waterproofing of fastener areas.

If tiles with a hidden fastening are mounted, then galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer are used.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened with optimal force.

If the holding force is insufficient moisture will get under the cap and cause it to corrode. If you tighten the screws too much, the gasket will deform, which will violate its tightness.

1. Before you cover the roof with a metal tile, you should make sure that the crate is symmetrical and reliable.
2. self-tapping screws screwed in in places of the lower deflection of the tile, they must enter strictly perpendicular to the plane of the boards of the crate.
3. When connecting two overlaps fastening is carried out in wave rises using shortened screws.
4. Installation of tiles begins from the lower left corner of the slope, subsequent sheets are stacked on top previous ones.
5. self-tapping screws screwed into each wave of tiles along the perimeter of the slope and in a checkerboard pattern in the interior areas. If a screwdriver is used for this, then its rotational effect on the material must be minimized.

Metal tile - do-it-yourself installation + instructions

Now you know how to properly lay a metal tile and we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the most important thing - instruction for the installation of metal tiles.

Installation of metal tiles - step by step instructions

How to properly cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands? The first step is .

It is on it that all other elements of the roof will be fixed. The system is constructed from wooden beams, while their size exceeds the dimensions of the crate bars.

The most important elements of the rafters are:

• Mauerlat. This is the fulcrum of the structure.
• rafter legs. They hold on to themselves and rely on the Mauerlat.
• Racks. Reinforce the support of the rafter legs.

The fastening of the rafters to the wall is carried out using the so-called tavern. These are metal strips that connect two structures with nails or self-tapping screws.

Next are installed basic insulating layers: insulation, steam and waterproofing. A waterproofing film or membrane is applied to the rafter system and fastened to it with a stapler. Thermal insulation is placed in cells, formed by the intersections of the rafters, and is fixed with the help of cords drawn crosswise in the lower plane of the rafters.

Rafter installation

After completing the installation of protective structures, you can proceed to the installation of the crate, on which, later, we will lay the roofing. She superimposed over rafters and waterproofing layer and attached to the screws to these structures.

Do-it-yourself metal tile installation:

1. A cornice bar is attached to the frontal board, providing roof protection from the influence of the wind.
2. When performing work, the need to ensure good natural ventilation space. To do this, leave gaps between all layers of the roofing cake. The basis of natural ventilation is the possibility of free air circulation under the roof ridge.
3. The last step is installation of metal tiles. Please note that the sheets protrude beyond the edges of the crate by 5 centimeters and align horizontally along the cornice line.
4. ridge bar attached to additional two boards, which are installed at the junctions of two slopes during the installation of the crate. Such measures are necessary to ensure additional resistance of an important structural element to negative impacts.

metal roofing plan

Laying metal tiles requires extra care. First, it must first plaster. Secondly, around it you need to install boards attached to the crate. Thirdly, shingles are cut 15 centimeters on all sides facing the chimney.

Chimney bypass

Additional elements

In addition to the above cornice and ridge slats, when installing a metal roof such items may be needed.(): Tips of the masters

• Distance between beams roof frame should be no more than 60-90 centimeters otherwise the roof structure may sag.
• When performing work, shoes must be worn on soft sole and move along the tile, stepping into its lower deflections. This will prevent the material from bursting.
• The absence of contacts between the protective layers is important not only to ensure ventilation, but to prevent them. mechanical damage during friction.
• To provide additional ventilation, you can equip dormer windows in the attic.
• For level installation of all elongated trim pieces need to stretch the thread and fix it between two already installed structures.

This is how the technology of laying metal tiles on the roof looks like. This material has an service life of about 50 years, but without the need for repair work operation will only take place if the installation is carried out correctly.

Useful video

Do-it-yourself metal tile laying in video format:

The metal tile is an engineering and technical "alloy" of steel strength and the aesthetics of traditional roofing ceramics. Lightweight profiled sheets practically do not affect the weight of the building and delight installers with convenient dimensions.

A sure plus in the piggy bank of material priorities is the ability to independently carry out the entire cycle roofing works without paid participation of builders. Only first you need to find out how the roof is made of metal tiles with your own hands, and learn about the rules and intricacies of the process of its construction.

The corrugated metal sheets of the now popular coating are equipped with double protection against atmospheric attacks. Steel profiled blanks are first immersed in hot zinc tanks, which forms an anti-corrosion film on the surface. Then the outer side of the material is covered with a colored polymer shell that performs aesthetic and protective function.

However, both degrees of protection will not be able to withstand the attacks of precipitation and household fumes if the roofing pie is arranged with violations and errors. In the space under the coating, condensate will begin to accumulate, which will slowly but surely get to the metal. The insulation will get wet and lose its insulating qualities. Wooden elements get wet, as a result of which they rot.

Rely completely on a light weight and an impressive area of ​​\u200b\u200bsheets of material is also not worth it: both the rafter system must be strong enough, and the crate is needed such that each element is fixed at the required number of points. Therefore, to self-assembly metal tiles should be properly prepared, i.е. get acquainted with the nuances of the construction of the truss structure, lathing and roofing pie.

Rafter system and crate

Metal tiles are used in the arrangement of cold and insulated roofs. The truss system for the cold type can be erected from steel or aluminum elements. But wood is still a priority, because it is easier to attach coating sheets to it. Insulated structures require more powerful roof trusses, because thermal insulation will be located between their legs. The use of metal in such situations is impractical, so warm roofs are arranged according to wooden rafters with a crate.

Note that the installation of a roof made of metal tiles is possible on pitched roofs ah with a minimum slope of 14º. The slope of the roofs is from 15º to 20º.

In the construction of the truss system for warm roof with metal tiles there are rules, these are:

• step between rafter legs must not exceed 90 cm. The minimum distance between the rafters is 60 cm. If the step of the existing truss system is greater than the specified upper limit, an additional crate is arranged from a transversely installed board.
• The rafter system is arranged from a board 50 mm thick. The recommended board height is 100 or 150 mm depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
• Laid in a spacer between the rafter legs should not come into contact with traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the device of the truss structure, then an additional counter-rail of 30 × 50 or 50 × 50 is stuffed onto the rafters along their direction. It will create a gap of 3-5cm.

In order to ensure ventilation of wooden elements, it is advisable to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 cm in the rafter legs from the side. The formation of holes is an optional procedure, but strongly recommended by metal tile manufacturers. If there are concerns about the weakening of the structure, they are advised to place them closer to the ridge in two or three rows with a step of 30 cm.

Before the construction of the crate, which works as the basis for fastening the sheets, the geometric parameters of the truss system should be checked. Measure and verify the length of the diagonals of rectangular slopes. On the mansard roofs the length of the diagonals of each part of the slope separately. You need to control the horizontal position of the overhangs and the ridge, as well as the location of the outer surface of the rafter legs in the same plane. Timely detection of deviations in geometry will eliminate further errors.

After making sure that the roof trusses are geometrically flawless, you can proceed to the construction of the crate, in the device of which, by analogy, clear rules apply:

• The first lath - the lowest rail on the overhang should be higher than the subsequent ordinary rails. For its construction, it is necessary to take a bar thicker than for ordinary laths. For example, for the bottom rail 50x50, and for all subsequent 30x50.
• The initial rail of the crate should be clearly parallel to the line of the eaves.
• The step between the first and second bars is 28 or 30 cm. The step between subsequent rails is 30, 35 or 40cm. pitch is determined by the distance between shear waves metal tiles.
• In the process of installing the crate, through penetrations through the roof are taken into account and fasteners for pipes are installed.
• In the grooves, around the dormer windows, chimney, fan and other pipes, a continuous crate of boards is arranged.
• At the top of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure secure fixation eaves plank. Boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Among other things, before installing the crate, all wooden components should be treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting composition.

The crate plays not only the role of the basis for fastening the sheets, but at the same time performs another very important work. It forms ventilation ducts through which air currents circulate from the overhang to the ridge, and provides a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.

ventilation ducts must remain free so that air can flow under the metal sheets without interference and also come out. From the side of the overhangs and from the side of the ridge, they are simply covered with perforated tape, which prevents dust and debris from entering the roofing pie.

Structural roof boards

Cornice boards are used to strengthen the slope and make it more rigid if the roof is planned to be equipped with an organized drain or to hem overhangs. vinyl siding. In situations where filing is done with a corny board, there is no need to use board reinforcement.

Cornice boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves pre-selected in the rafters. The dimensions of the grooves must correspond to the dimensions of the board so that the plane of the overhang remains unchanged and the height of the truss system does not increase. If it is planned to install long hooks used to fix the gutter, grooves are cut in the cornice board for their fastening. Hooks with a short leg are screwed only to the front board. They are used when the installation of a drainage system was not planned in advance and when repairing old roofs. The installation step of all types of hooks is equal to the step of the rafter legs.

The frontal board is used if the roof does not have an organized drain. It is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. Serves as an element for fastening various roofing parts and accessories, including for hemming overhangs. The end board serves as the basis for end bar, the latter closes the waterproofing laid over the board. In addition to the decorative function, the plank nailed to the end board prevents the roof from rattling.

Time to hem the overhangs

Coating manufacturers strongly advise to hem overhangs with valves specially produced for this purpose, such as KTV or Vilpe. For filing cornices, siding, profiled sheet or vinyl spotlights are recommended. Dobora are on sale with the application of connecting details and with the instruction. You can hem economically with a board attached with a gap for roof ventilation.

The specifics of the roofing cake

The composition and structure of the roofing pie under the metal tile depends on whether the structure will be insulated or not. In the simplest non-insulated scheme, only a waterproofing film is used. A vapor barrier is used if attic space supposed to be stitched.

The insulated roofing cake includes three standard layers, these are:

• Vapor barrier. It is located on the side of the future intake of household fumes, i.e. from within the truss system. Her job is to protect the insulation from steam. stripes vapor barrier material are laid parallel to the overhangs with an overlap of 10-15 cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and they are connected into a single canvas with adhesive tape. Between inner lining attic and vapor barrier should create a gap by installing battens.
• Thermal insulation. As a heater, mineral wool boards are most often used, the thickness of which is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP II-3-79. The material is installed at a distance between the rafter legs. To ensure the rigidity of the installation, the plates are cut with a width of 1.5-2 cm more than the distance between the rafters.
• Waterproofing. It is needed as a barrier against atmospheric precipitation. They lay it on the outside of the truss system in front of the batten, they try to arrange it immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. The waterproofing material is laid, like a vapor barrier, in strips with a similar overlap and fastening methods.

The waterproofing layer is laid so that its canvas overlaps the lines of the walls along the perimeter by at least 20 cm. In the areas where the slopes join, in the valleys, laying is carried out with overlaps of 20-30 cm. Along the ridge line, the waterproofing must have a gap so as not to interfere with air circulation.

Important condition: bituminous water-repellent materials cannot be used as a waterproofing of a roofing cake when installing a roof made of metal tiles. Waterproofing must pass steam and condensate accumulated in the insulation.

The method of constructing a water-repellent layer depends on the material used:

• Classic version of waterproofing - reinforced or non-reinforced polyethylene film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first one is formed truss system and is located between the insulation and the film, the second is formed by the crate and is located between the film and roofing. The size of each of the gaps is 3-5 cm.
• The superdiffusion membrane can work fine with a single ventilation gap of 3-5cm. It is created between the membrane and the metal tile. Using polymer material there is no point in breaking the contact between the waterproofing and the insulation. After all, the membrane is able to pass excess moisture out, preventing it from getting inside.
• Anti-condensation materials with a fleecy surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated when washed with air, which should be provided with a path. Therefore, this option also needs dual-circuit ventilation, like the classic. It is mainly used in the arrangement of cold roofs.

All types of insulating materials except polymer waterproofing, stacked with sagging. So it is necessary that when the film is pulled, it does not break. Only the membrane does not need to be laid with sagging - it tends to stretch.

Around the through passages through the roof, waterproofing is placed on the walls of communication pipes by 5-7 cm. Ideally, around pipes and other weakened areas of the roof, it is recommended to arrange additional waterproofing layer.

Installation of parts before laying the coating

Before laying the metal tile, it is mandatory to install:

• Eaves strips, excluding the penetration of dust and debris into the under-roof space. They are mounted on top of the ventilation tape attached to the ends and the legs of the drain hooks. The slats are attached to the frontal and eaves board with self-tapping screws in increments of 30cm. To prevent rattling from gusts of wind, data metal parts set with tension.
• Cornice droppers, which are located under the waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from waterproofing.
• A lower valley that reinforces the protection of the concave corners of the roof. Represents metal corner, repeating the shape of the groove. It is mounted on top of a solid plank crate. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice board. In almost flat grooves, the boardwalk is equipped with an additional strip of waterproofing. The lower valley is screwed with self-tapping screws every 30 cm. A porous sealant is covered over the lower valley.
• Protective bypass around chimneys crossing the roof. It is carried out using metal bypass strips, the upper edge of which is attached to a strobe formed in the pipe walls and treated with a sealant. Stitching into the seam is prohibited! The same rules apply when arranging adjoining walls.
• Lightning conductor required for safe operation metal roof.

The lightning rod system consists of three main parts. The first is a lightning rod, which is a steel or aluminum bar Ø 12mm, from 20 cm to 1.5 m long. The second component of the down conductor is a single-core steel or aluminum wireØ 6mm. They lay a down conductor along the crate and along the walls, lead to the ground. Grounding, the third part of the system, is an iron beam 1.5 m long buried at a depth of 1.5 m or a steel sheet with an area of ​​1 m × 1 m, for example.

Rules for laying sheets of metal

Before laying profiled sheets, it is necessary to arrange logs for transporting material to the roof. In order not to lift the coating one sheet at a time, it is advisable to build racks for temporary storage at the top. More home master you will need soft shoes, diligence and accuracy in the process of moving along the roof. The work contractor is allowed to step only into the deflections of profiled waves.

When laying metal tiles, you can move even to the left, even to the right of the first fixed sheet. The main thing is that the capillary groove overlaps with the sheet laid on top. The guideline for choosing the direction of laying is convenience. However, it is better to act in such a way that the element laid on top immediately fits under the extreme wave of the previous one and snaps into place with a capillary groove. This way it stays in place and doesn't slide off.

Typical installation sequence

Indisputable rules for the installation of metal tiles:

• Starting sheets are attached to the first lath through the wave on top of the transverse step of the cover. Their lower edge extends 5 cm beyond the eaves.
• All subsequent fastening of sheets is carried out in recessions of waves from below the transverse step.
• Along the end board, the profiled coating is attached to all waves.

Before fastening, it is necessary to carefully check the horizontal position of the sheet. After making sure that the installation is flawless, it is temporarily fixed with one self-tapping screw at the upper edge in the center. Then the second sheet is laid, leveled and temporarily fixed in the same way. Aligned sheets are fastened together. Do the same with the third and fourth.

Screwing to the crate is carried out when a block of 3-4 sheets is laid and temporarily fixed. The block is fixed at all the required points. Only the outer sheet is not screwed to the crate, so that it remains possible to connect it with the next element.

The process of laying metal tile sheets in several rows differs only in that the rows of material will also have to be fastened to each other. Sheets in height are increased vertically.

Algorithm for laying on triangular slopes

Profiled sheets are suitable for pitched roofs of any configuration. However, for a competent device of a hip or hip roof made of metal tiles, you will have to act according to a different scheme.

Installation of sheets on slopes of a triangular shape:

• We find the center of the overhang and draw the central axis through it.
• We take the first sheet and do the same with it.
• We combine the axes of the slope and the sheet in fact, we verify the horizontal and vertical.
• Temporarily fasten the sheet with a self-tapping screw in the center at the top edge.
• We install the sheets to the right and left of the central element of the coating in the usual way.

After fastening the corrugated sheets, the excess is cut off.

The convenience of trimming with marking material for arranging valleys, triangular, trapezoidal and oblique slopes will provide a home-made "devil". It is built from four boards 10 cm wide. The boards are arranged in parallel pairs and are connected to each other according to the hinge principle. A simple fixture will help to accurately outline the cut segments.

Final installation work

After laying the wavy coating with a light soul, you can proceed to the finishing touches:

• Install passage elements around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roofing cake at the intersection points are sealed with adhesive tape. Butt joints are filled with sealant.
• Screw the end plate to the end board with self-tapping screws every 50-60 cm.
• Screw the top bar of the valley, having laid a self-expanding sealant on the coating beforehand.
• Build a horse. To do this, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge is glued on the outside with waterproofing of the Metalroll or Figarol brand. Ventilation ducts must remain open. The ridge is fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate, the fasteners should be screwed through a convex comb. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.

A drainage system, snow guards, service ladders and fencing, if planned, are installed on the laid coating.

A detailed video instruction will become an excellent consolidation of information about the device on the roof of a solid roof made of metal tiles with your own master's hands:

There are many nuances in the construction of a roof with metal tiles. However, there is nothing super complicated in technology. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the device and observe them so that you do not again have to change the roof to the next option.