How to install plastic windows; what nuances should you pay attention to during measurements and installation; common errors, as well as ways to identify them - we will consider these and other pressing issues in this article.

Why do problems with plastic windows occur so often?

Many people believe that PVC windows are only as good as the quality of their installation. In many ways this is true. The fact is that the production of plastic windows is carried out using automated systems, and calculations and design are carried out on computers using specialized software. That is why defects in the assembly of translucent PVC structures are extremely rare, and the notorious “human factor” becomes the cornerstone. It should be noted that in addition to high-quality installation, it is very important to wisely choose a window system that is optimally suited for certain conditions. And yet, an incorrectly measured window simply cannot be installed properly.

Consequences of poor installation

Preparing the opening

When performing window installation work, you always have to devote some time to preparing and restoring the opening. This problem is especially relevant when replacing window units in old buildings due to extensive damage to dilapidated structures. In a good way, for a high-quality solution it takes two to three days, which is simply impossible in residential premises. Quick-hardening cement-based compounds and polyurethane foam in combination with sheet insulation come to the rescue.

After dismantling the old window, the opening must be freed from moving, crumbling particles and protruding elements of the old internal slopes. All surfaces are cleaned of dust, dirt, and oil stains. Loose areas should be secured by filling with a waterproof binder.

Large voids formed when replacing window blocks, for example, between rows of facing and load-bearing brickwork, are sealed with dense insulation, and all through holes are foamed.

In addition, it is necessary to remove mortar deposits, repair cavities and chips on the internal surfaces of the quarter that exceed 10 mm in height. Such attention to this section of the opening is explained by the fact that a hermetic tape seal will be placed here.

Installation of plastic windows

Positioning and temporary fixation of window blocks

Windows can be installed in a pre-prepared opening, either assembled or with the sashes and double-glazed windows removed. In any case, the window block must have an installation profile designed for mounting the window sill and ebb.

Using a level or plumb line, the windows are aligned in compliance with the required installation gaps within permissible deviations - up to 1.5 mm per meter, but not more than 3 mm for the entire length of the product. The difference between window diagonals should not exceed 8 mm. If the opening does not have a quarter limiting the location of the window block, then it is recommended to install the product at a certain distance from its outer edge - at least 1/3 of the thickness of the load-bearing wall. If the wall is not uniform, with insulation - in the area of ​​the insulating layer.

Using plastic mounting wedges, the window is fixed in the opening. Such wedges are installed in pairs in the corners of the window block; the thickness is adjusted by moving them relative to each other by several interlocking teeth. The prefabricated plastic block has an air chamber, therefore it is not a cold bridge, like a homemade wooden block, and moreover, it does not deform with changes in temperature and humidity. The recommended width of the wedges is 100-120 mm. All installation pads are removed after fixing the window with fasteners, except for the lower support wedges. It is they who transfer the load to the load-bearing base, and not the lower assembly seam.

Attention! If the window has a vertical central bulkhead - an impost, then the support wedges should be placed directly below it.

PVC window fixing

Depending on the design and density of the wall materials, the weight and dimensions of the product, the strength of wind loads, and the size of the installation gaps, the optimal type and number of fastening elements is selected. To attach windows to openings, plastic or metal anchor dowels, construction screws or mounting plates are used.

Polymer dowels are used for walls made of low-strength materials - lightweight concrete, hollow brick, wood, and also to avoid contact corrosion in aggressive environments. Plastic frame dowels provide good thermal insulation of the connected elements.

Windows are fastened with self-tapping screws to wooden bases - rough frames, embedded elements, wooden frame posts.

Flexible anchor plates are used for multi-layer wall construction, if there is insulation in the area where the window block is located, and the attachment point must be moved beyond it.

Metal expansion dowels provide excellent resistance to shear loads occurring in solid mineral substrates such as concrete, solid brick, and natural stone.

The length of the fasteners is selected so that the spacer element of the anchor is immersed in the base by at least 40 mm. The diameter of the dowels should not be less than 8 mm.

Fastening elements must be located in the range of 150-180 mm from the inner corner of the window block and 120-180 mm on both sides of the impost. If there is no impost connection, then one dowel should be located along the line of the frame ledge of the two sashes. The distance between the fasteners should not exceed 700 mm for white and 600 mm for tinted windows, therefore an anchor is almost always placed in the area of ​​the middle of the side profile of the window.

In predetermined places, through holes are drilled in the window frame, so that the heads of the dowels and locking screws are recessed into the rebate of the window profile and can be closed with decorative plugs or caps. Depending on the characteristics of the wall materials, anchor holes in them are drilled or drilled with a hammer drill in a mixed mode - drilling with impact.

Attention! The depth of drilling holes in the walls should be at least 10 mm greater than the length of the part of the anchor that extends into the base.

Flexible anchor plates are attached to the windows before they are installed in the installation opening. To do this, they are snapped into grooves on the outside of the plastic profile and screwed to it with screws and a drill, the diameter of which must be at least 5 mm and a length of at least 40 mm. After fixing the window in the opening, the plates are bent and attached to the wall using plastic expansion dowels with a diameter of 6 mm.

Attention! There should be two attachment points for each plate.

Technology for filling installation gaps

According to current GOSTs, when installing plastic windows, a three-layer system of installation seams must be used. This design was based on a fairly simple idea, once implemented by German specialists. The main component of the installation gap is the central layer in the form of polyurethane foam, which performs a sound and heat insulation function and must remain dry under any circumstances in order to function correctly. The inner layer protects the insulation from moisture penetration from inside the room, in other words, it is a vapor barrier. Self-adhesive tapes or vapor-tight mastic sealants are used for this. The outer layer is a pre-compressed self-expanding seal strip (PSUL), which allows moisture from the foam insulation to pass through, but is waterproof on the outside.

The construction of a complex seam begins with the installation of the PSUL on a quarter of the opening, 3-5 millimeters from its edge. Thus, a front installation gap is formed, the size of which is regulated by the working thickness of the sealing tape compressed by at least 25% - in practice this is on the order of 3 to 20 mm. In some cases, for example, if a quarter of a brick has jointing or other minor irregularities, the tape is glued directly to the window profile.

Attention! The current GOST 2007 in article 5.1.9. allows the sealing of the outer layer with plaster compounds, whereas the previous standard prohibited this, allowing the use of only profile parts: strips, false quarters, flashings.

Please note that the use of ebb molding is a prerequisite for ensuring reliable protection of the assembly seam from atmospheric moisture. The ebb should extend 30-40 mm beyond the cladding of the external walls; noise-absorbing pads can be installed under it.

Next, after the window is finally secured in the opening using anchors or flexible plates, the installation seam is filled with a layer of foam. Foaming is carried out with the window unit fully assembled. Please note that compensation gaskets must be installed between the glass unit and the profile.

As we have already said, the central layer, depending on the dimensions and features of the windows, can range from 15 to 40 millimeters. The foam sealant must be applied in a continuous, uniform layer, without the formation of voids, tears, or cracks. That is why, with a large window profile width, or if the width of the installation gap significantly exceeds the standard one, polyurethane foam is applied in stages, taking into account technological breaks for drying of the layers. It is recommended that before starting to fill the seam, do a test foaming of a small area to determine the degree of expansion of the polyurethane sealant. The foam should not extend beyond the outer plane of the window profile.

Attention! Cutting off excess foam material makes the central layer too hygroscopic, so this operation is performed only in extreme cases and only from the inner surface of the assembly seam.

A vapor barrier tape is glued on top of the dried foam insulation, extending into the opening, or mastic is applied. An important stage in the construction of the inner layer of the installation seam can be considered the treatment with silicone or acrylic sealants of the mating elements of the window system, such as the facing of the slope, the window sill, as well as the junctions of individual window blocks with each other and with stand, rotary, expansion profiles.

Upon completion of window installation, the protective film must be removed from the frames and sashes.

Main mistakes when installing plastic windows

The first thing you should pay attention to is the deviation of the parts of the installed window unit from the vertical and horizontal lines. Let us remind you that modern standards allow installation inaccuracies of up to 1.5 mm per linear meter or 3 mm for the entire product. The vertical is perhaps best checked using a plumb line and a tape measure attached near the window, measuring the distance from the thread stretched under the weight of the cone to the window profile. When using this method, the dimensions of the product do not matter, because we have the opportunity to take measurements along the entire length of the profile. The horizontality of the parts can be checked by placing control marks on the vertical window profiles, including mullions, using a hydraulic level and subsequent measurements of the distance from them to the edges of the product. Note that only expensive rack levels allow more or less qualitative examination of deviations, but in most cases their length is clearly not enough to understand the overall picture.

If there are only vertical or only horizontal deviations, this means that the box is skewed and does not have right angles. The lengths of the diagonals are checked with a tape measure - the maximum permissible difference can be 8 mm.

Next, you should check the window for any deformations of the window profiles. For these purposes, a cord is pulled along the lines of the outer edges of the window profiles, from corner to corner - deviations are determined visually. A very common problem is the curvature of the middle of the side profiles towards the center of the window. This happens when installation is carried out on flexible anchor plates that are unable to contain the pressure of expanding foam, or if there are no spacers between the glass unit and the profile. Deflection of horizontal profiles occurs for the same reasons.

It is very important to check the correctness of the choice and technology for using a certain type of fastening elements. Very often, installers completely unreasonably prefer to use anchor plates for all occasions, since it is much easier to install the product with their help, in addition, they do not need to remove the sashes and remove the double-glazed windows. You should take the requirements regarding the number and location of fasteners as seriously as possible.

The absence of support blocks under the installation profile (most often under a vertical impost) or the use of homemade wooden wedges instead. As a rule, this error is paired with a more serious one - too small or zero installation gap at the bottom of the window.

Violation of the technology for constructing assembly seams consists mainly of too small gap sizes, discontinuity of insulating layers or their absence. The most common mistake can be considered overflow of foam material, which entails deformation of the profiles and the need to cut off excess sealant.

A related problem causes ventilation at the joints of the elements of the window system - the window sill, slope cladding, connecting, expansion, and turning profiles. This is a banal lack of sealing of their joints with self-expanding tapes or acrylic or silicone.

Often installers incorrectly install connected window units, for example on glazed balconies. The windows are not located in the same plane - like a book. Checking this is quite simple; you should pull the cord in front of the front line of the window, from corner to corner, and take measurements with a tape measure.

It is also not uncommon for windows located next to each other to be placed not on the same horizontal line, or without connection to the geometry of the facade. For example, this is very important on a bay window, panoramic glazing, where one complex window sill can be used with several window blocks. And again, a water level will come to the rescue, making it possible to place mutually located horizontal marks at a sufficient distance.

We will definitely look at problems that arise due to errors when assembling PVC windows and ways to solve them in the following articles.

How to avoid poor-quality installation of plastic windows?

1. Use the services of a large company; it is better if it is a manufacturer of window systems rather than an intermediary.
2. Study in detail the technology of installing PVC windows. It’s not for nothing that they say: “Aware means forearmed.”
3. Prepare an area for storing materials. Free up as much space as possible near window openings, cover furniture and household appliances with polyethylene, insulate other rooms, fence off the work area outside.
4. Discuss all technological nuances with the measurer, be constantly present during installation - do not forget about the large number of hidden works.
5. Before and after installing windows, check the integrity of the profiles and glass units, and the functionality of the fittings.
6. Do not sign the acceptance certificate for new windows until you check the quality of their installation.
7. If you later discover problems - blowing, rubbing, then feel free to contact the contractor with a request to fix the problems. In the vast majority of cases, all problems are promptly resolved by the manufacturer.

Advantages of installing windows at the Moscow Windows company

Full-time installation teams (not hired ones). Employees are citizens of the Russian Federation.

All installation teams are trained in their own service center and undergo annual training and certification.

All installation and fastening materials are purchased centrally from trusted suppliers.

Automated calculation of installation materials allows us to guarantee compliance with GOST standards. Elimination of errors when calculating materials.

Installation quality control. Every day, an independent quality control service makes selective visits to sites to check the work being done.

Receiving feedback. 2 days after installation, a quality control service manager will contact you and you will evaluate our work.

The service life of plastic windows is 40 years or more, but only competent installation provides them with high performance properties. Installation of PVC windows according to GOST is one of the Moscow Windows Standards.

The company offers two installation options using unique technologies: basic SetEco™ and installation according to GOST SetFull™.

Installation of windows using the SetFull™ system

Installation of plastic windows using SetFull technology is carried out in accordance with GOST, taking into account the features and disadvantages of buildings.

A special composition protects the installation seam both from the street side and from the room side.

The installation warranty using the SetFull™ system is 5 years.

System components:

1. Polyurethane foam.
2. Pre-compressed sealing tape.
3. Waterproofing tape (membrane type)
4. Vapor barrier layer.

Installation of windows using the SetEco™ system

This is the basic type of installation. The materials used are easy to use, while providing basic sealing of the assembly seam. For additional protection, “Insulation of the external seam” is performed. The service involves the installation of two special insulating tapes. Recommended by the Moscow Windows company for orders with plastic slopes, providing reliable vapor barrier from the side of the room.

Installation warranty using the SetEco™ system is 2 years

System components:

1. Polyurethane foam.
2. Pre-compressed sealing tape.*

*PSUL tape is installed only when ordering the service "Insulation of assembly seam"

Installation according to GOST

Modern plastic windows require proper installation. When installing plastic windows, all future loads on the window must be taken into account: mechanical, temperature and chemical. Its functional durability primarily depends on the correct installation of a window.

Stage 1. Protecting living space from construction debris

Before installation, it is imperative to prepare the room. Cover the floor, furniture, expensive items, dishes, etc. with plastic film to protect from construction dust.

Stage 2. Checking for compliance with the window size and order contents

Before starting dismantling work, we be sure to check the dimensions of the openings and frames delivered to the site, taking into account the standards for the dimensions of the installation joint. We check the order contents.

• Date: 08-04-2015
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Modern plastic windows have a fairly large number of advantages. Their installation can provide reliable sealing and thermal protection. In order to save some money on installing windows, you can install them yourself. The design is quite complex, but its installation does not require the use of any specific tools. To get a high-quality result, you will need to study the rules for installing plastic windows, which are contained in GOST 23166-99 and GOST 30971-02.

Figure 1. Measurements of a plastic window.

Installation procedure for plastic windows:

1. First of all, you will need to measure the openings.
2. After this, the old windows are dismantled.
3. Openings are being prepared.
4. New windows are being installed.

Items that will be needed:

1. Building level.
2. Plumb.
3. Chisel.
4. Anchor.
5. Foam.
6. Screws.
7. Hammer.
8. Primer.
9. Marker.
10. Documents containing standards for installing plastic windows.

Necessary measurements: sequence of actions

Visually, the measurement process can be seen in Fig. 1.

Installation standards state that the first step is to measure the rectangular window. The width of the opening is measured. To do this, you need to determine the distance between the extreme points of the opening. Next, the height of the window opening is measured. To do this, you need to determine the distance between the upper slope and the window sill. To the result you will need to add the thickness of the window sill.

Measurements must be taken in at least three places for each size, at the extreme points and in the middle. Smooth openings can be found quite rarely. As a basis, you need to choose the smaller of the values ​​that will be obtained.

Installation of PVC windows: double-glazed windows, slopes, ebb, fittings.

Using a plumb line with a medium pointed end, you need to check the vertical curvilinearity of the opening. Using a level, you need to check for horizontal distortions. If there are deviations, they will need to be indicated on the sketch. The frame drawing is a rectangle that is inscribed in the sketch of the opening according to the measurements taken. Based on the sketch, it will be necessary to make adjustments to the frame dimensions.

Installation standards require taking measurements of all openings in the room. The width of these structures may vary significantly, but the height should be the same.

Next, the placement of the window block is determined. The structure must be mounted 2/3 of the width of the wall from the inside. If you plan to cover the walls with thermal insulation material along the outside of the house, the windows can be installed a little further.

After this, the external ebb tide is measured. Most often, you just need to measure the length of the mounted ebb or add 50 mm to the width of the opening at the bend. The width of the ebb is determined as the distance from the mounting plane to the outer part of the wall, the margin for the protrusion (35-40 mm) and for the bend. If thermal insulation is performed, it is important to consider the thickness of the sheathing layer.

Next, the window sill is measured. The width of the structure is equal to the distance from the inside of the wall to the mounting plane and the overhang size. In this case, you will need to exclude the width of the window frame from the result. The overhang must be calculated based on the fact that the window sill should cover the heating battery by a third of its size.

Slopes are measured after installing plastic windows, since it is quite difficult to determine the width of the structure.

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How to choose the design of plastic windows according to the fastening method?

After measurements of the structure have been made, you can purchase windows. During the selection process, you need to consider the type of structure fastening system. Installation standards require the following mounting methods:

1. Installation through the frame in the window installation plane.
2. Fixation using reinforcement, which is pre-fixed to the frame during manufacture.

We will most use the first method. When using this method, you will need to completely remove the window structures from the blind sashes.

The second method is recommended for use if you are installing plastic windows yourself. In this case, it will be possible to eliminate the possibility of damage to double-glazed windows and the tightness of the structure during the disassembly and assembly process. However, when installing the entire window block, the structure will weigh much more, so installing the window yourself will be quite difficult.

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How to do the preparatory work?

When windows are ordered, production and delivery times should be clarified. It is not recommended to carry out any work until the structure arrives.

First of all, you will need to clear the space in front of the windows, and then put away all the furniture. It is recommended to cover the floor and heating radiators with a special film.

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How to prepare a window profile?

If old windows are installed, they need to be dismantled. To do this, you will need to use a chisel to pry the glazing bead with which the glass unit is fixed, after which you need to snap it out of the groove with weak blows. The first step is to remove the glazing beads, which are located vertically. After this, you need to dismantle the lower and upper ones. It is recommended to mark the beads. With modern manufacturing, the sizes of such devices may vary, so if they are mixed up, small gaps may appear.

The frame must be tilted so that the glass unit falls out of the grooves. After this, it must be placed against the wall at a slight angle.

You will need to remove the decorative plugs from the canopies of the swing doors and unscrew the clamping bolts. If there is a transom system, it is necessary to release the upper part of the sash and remove the hook from the lower canopy.

As a result, only the frame with imposts should remain. You will need to make holes in the inside of the frame for mounting anchors. You need to make at least three attachment points on the sides and two on the ends. To make holes, you need to use metal drills, since inside the plastic structure there is a metal insert for strength. The windows will need to be secured with anchors with a diameter of 9-10 mm. The drill must be selected of the appropriate size.

If the windows are attached by lugs, then there is no need to disassemble the structure. You just need to install the fasteners into the frame and secure them using screws.

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How to fill a profile with foam and prepare an opening: installation standards

To eliminate the possibility of the appearance of cold bridges, at the point where the profile is attached to the frame, it will be necessary to fill the entire space inside the profile with polyurethane foam. It is recommended to do this a day before installing the windows so that the foam can fill the entire base and harden.

If it is not necessary to keep the old frame, it is better to dismantle it. The sashes must be removed from the awnings or pulled out along with the mounting screws. The frame and frame of the windows need to be cut in several places. Using a crowbar, you need to pry up each part and remove it from the opening. In some cases, it is necessary to first remove the nails that hold the window frame in place.

The seal and insulation that are located under the box will also need to be dismantled. Using a hammer drill you will need to remove part of the slopes.

All garbage must be collected in bags and taken out.

The ends of the openings must be leveled and cleaned of dust. The surface will need to be primed.

If windows are installed in an old wooden building, it is recommended to lay waterproofing material along the entire opening to prevent moisture from entering the foam layer. If there is a need to strengthen the structure, you can insert a wooden box.

Relatively recently, all residential buildings had ordinary wooden windows, which had to be sealed for the winter. Today it is almost a relic of the past. And most people strive to replace such windows with modern plastic window structures, and they are especially interested in installing plastic windows with their own hands.

This desire of the consumer is quite understandable - plastic windows not only have an aesthetic appearance, but also serve as interior decoration. They are also much easier to use, last an order of magnitude longer, and are significantly cheaper than their wooden counterparts.

If you have a desire to replace the old windows in your apartment with modern double-glazed windows, then you will certainly ask yourself whether it is possible to install a plastic window yourself. How difficult is it to install plastic windows, and can you do it yourself without the help of specialists?

Yes, it's quite possible. In order to install a plastic window with your own hands, it is not necessary to have a construction specialty. With certain skills and good tools, anyone can install a plastic window with their own hands.

Let's figure out how to do it right.

What does a plastic window consist of?

First, let's look at the design of a plastic window. Without this, you will not understand the installation process itself.

Plastic windows are made from a special material called PolyVinyl Chloride. That’s why plastic windows are called PVC windows in short. Like any window, the main element of a PVC window is a frame made of a profile consisting of cells. The more such cells in the frame (also called chambers), the warmer the window will be.

Typically the frame color is white. Although plastic can be black, brown, and even colored. The most common and most budget option is white plastic windows.

In addition, the window consists of an opening part (sash) and a stationary part, which is called a “capercaillie”. The glass unit is directly inserted into these parts of the window, which is pressed against the frame with a special plastic strip. For tightness, a black rubber seal is placed.

Special mechanisms are installed on the window sashes, with the help of which the window opens and closes.

In addition, on the outside the window has a so-called ebb - a small board with the help of which precipitation is removed, and slopes - plates that seal the side and top parts from the street side.

Stages of installing plastic windows with your own hands

All stages of installing plastic windows with your own hands come down to the following:

• careful measurements;
• dismantling old window structures;
• preparation of window openings;
• DIY PVC window installation.

Taking measurements

Before ordering and, accordingly, installing a plastic window, you need to make several measurements. Moreover, how carefully they are done will determine how your structure will fit into the window opening. Remember that accurate measurements are almost half the battle. If you take the measurements incorrectly, when installing plastic windows yourself, the structure simply will not fit into the opening. In addition, the windows may begin to freeze.

First you need to carefully examine the opening. If the part of the window that is smaller on the outside, then measurements are taken at the narrowest point. Moreover, it is highly advisable to make several of them, because window openings are rarely perfectly smooth. Find the smallest measurement value and add 3 to it. Measure the height, leave its value as it is.

If the window is the same size both inside and outside, measurements are taken slightly differently. You need to measure the width and height. Then you need to subtract 5 cm from the height, and 3 from the width. This will be the full size of your window, with width and height. We subtract the values ​​in order to leave gaps for installing the window sill and special mounting foam.

Each owner chooses the window sill according to the size he wants. Some like wide window sills, some like narrow ones, and some make them at wall level. This is individual, and there are no rules here. This applies to width.

The length of both the window sill and the ebb should be taken with a margin - about 10 cm wider than the window opening.

Getting ready for installation

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows always begins with dismantling the old window. As a rule, even novice builders find dismantling particularly easy.

After you have broken out the old window, you need to carefully inspect the opening and remove anything that may fall off later. If some parts of the opening protrude from the walls after dismantling, they must also be removed and the surfaces smoothed. Potholes, if any. It should be sealed with cement mortar.

When installing PVC windows with your own hands, you must take into account the following circumstances:

• the plastic window structure should be carefully secured;
• the window structure must be leveled both horizontally and vertically, otherwise in the future it may simply warp;
• It is necessary to plaster the mounting foam on all sides, with which the structure is attached, also in order to avoid future problems such as deformation.

Plastic window installation technology

Install a plastic window with your own hands as follows:

• The structure should be fixed on four sides using wedges, and it should be determined how accurately the frame is positioned relative to the opening;
• secure the frame with special bolts;
• attach the structure with screws to the wooden part;
• seal the plastic structure using polyurethane foam, spreading it over a surface slightly moistened with water.

You need to start with the fact that there are two different ways to install plastic windows with your own hands.

The first method is to drill holes in the window frame for special anchors, which are driven into the wall. This is a rather complicated method, but a more reliable fastening.

The second method is that metal plates are first attached to the frame from the outside, and only then these plates are attached to the walls. This is a much simpler and faster method, but such fastening is not reliable. The frame can simply warp even in strong winds. Therefore, if you nevertheless decide to make your life easier and install a plastic window with your own hands using the second method, use thick and wide metal plates. In this case, you can give your plastic structure greater reliability. However, if your city is very windy, this method is definitely not suitable for you.

Direct installation

Installing a plastic window with your own hands using the first method with reliable fastening is carried out as follows.

First, you should check whether the structure and the window opening are compatible. If everything is in order, we proceed directly to installation.

First you need to remove the window sash. For this:

• turn the window handle down, placing the window in the “closed” position, and use a screwdriver to remove the trim from the hinges;
• pull out the pin, which is located on the top hinge;
• open the shutter by turning the window handle to a horizontal position, after which, by lifting the window sash, you can easily remove it from the lower pin.

After you have removed the sash, you need to remove the double-glazed window on the capecaillie. For this:

• insert a small spatula or something similar, strong enough, thin and not wide, into the gap between the frame and the bead;
• move the glazing bead with a spatula, going along the entire length, and remove it from the frame.

After this, you can easily remove the glass unit itself. The main thing is that it does not fall out of the frame after the glazing beads you removed are no longer holding it. To avoid this, the window should be tilted.

The frame is freed from the glass unit, and now it should be covered around the perimeter with special tape. This tape is needed to keep the window warm.

As a rule, white self-adhesive protective tapes are glued to the frames. It is also advisable to remove them, because later, when they heat up in the sun and stick to the frame, fused with it, this will be difficult to do. In the meantime, the tapes are very easy to remove.

Now the frame needs to be inserted into the window opening. To do this, you will need mounting wedges, which are placed in the corners (this is a mandatory requirement), as well as in other places where you deem it necessary.

Using a drill and a drill bit, special holes are made into which the fasteners are inserted. The first hole is drilled at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the top edge. The bottom hole should be approximately the same distance from the bottom corner. The gap between two fasteners should not be more than 5-7 cm.
The anchor is hammered into the hole and then tightened. At the same time, you must tighten the anchor carefully, trying not to overtighten, otherwise the profile will bend, and this cannot be allowed. This operation - tightening the anchors - is continued as many times as necessary.

After this, ebb tides should be installed outside. Before installation, self-adhesive waterproofing should be applied to the part of the frame that is located outside. Grooves are made in the side openings (the edges of these ebbs will need to be inserted there later).

On that part of the opening where the ebb will rest on the wall, a special profile is installed, to which the ebb will then be attached. If the height difference is small, you don’t have to install the profile, but simply apply a layer of polyurethane foam. Then the ebb should be placed under the ledge of the frame and attached to it with self-tapping screws. Along the lower edge of the ebb, you also need to fill it with polyurethane foam.

Now let's take a closer look at the second method of installing plastic windows with your own hands - using plates.

This method is much simpler, although, as we have already said, it is less reliable. Installation using this method involves installing thick metal plates.

They should be installed at the same distance as the anchors in the first installation method - approximately 2 cm from the edge, and no more than 7 cm between those in the middle. The metal plates are simply screwed to the profile using self-tapping screws.

In all other respects, do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows is completely identical to the first installation method. In the same way, the window is leveled in three planes, after which all actions are identical. Simply, unlike the first method, they attach not the frame itself, but metal plates, and attach them to the so-called dowel-nails. The peculiarity of the fastening is that they first drill a hole, then bend the metal plate, insert a dowel into the hole, put the plate in place and tighten the dowel.

The main mistakes when installing plastic windows with your own hands

If you install plastic windows incorrectly, this can lead to the fact that the house will be cold; water will flow into the room through improperly installed ebbs. And the expensive structures themselves will quickly become unusable. And if professional installers sometimes make mistakes when installing PVC windows, then, of course, an amateur who installs plastic windows with his own hands is not immune from them.

Let's look at the 10 most common mistakes made when installing plastic windows.

The window size is incorrect

This is usually a consequence of incorrect, careless measurement of the window opening, and, accordingly, the manufacture of an unsuitable window structure. And in case the window is too large in size. And if the size is very small, it is simply impossible to install such structures.

Poor preparation of the window opening

If the surfaces are poorly cleaned, there is construction debris, dust, potholes left on them, or, on the contrary, parts of the wall protrude on the surface of the opening, the polyurethane foam will not fit as tightly and evenly as is necessary for high-quality installation of plastic windows with your own hands. In addition, this kind of pollution absorbs moisture very well, and it will soon end up inside your apartment.

Ignoring wall insulation

If a plastic window is installed without taking into account the thermal insulation of the wall, then cold air will penetrate into the apartment at the joints. Therefore, it is imperative to take into account the layers of walls when installing plastic windows. If the wall consists of one layer, the window should be placed exactly in the middle of the wall. If the wall is double-layered, the window should be installed at the very edge, as close to the insulation as possible. And if the wall is three-layer, then it is necessary to install a PVC window directly in the plane of the wall insulation, in order to avoid heat loss.

Incorrect distance between the window frame and the slope

If the window frame is located too close to the slope, the seal in this place will be of poor quality, and moisture will begin to appear and accumulate in these places. If, on the contrary, the frame is located too far from the slope, then there is a risk of deformation, since the load on the anchors or metal plates is too great.

Incorrect size of window sill

The window sill should be slightly narrower than the window frame itself. If it is a different size, or they decide not to install it at all, then water will penetrate under the window frame due to the lack of a normal seal in this place, and as a result, the wall will constantly be wet. Metal parts can simply corrode after a certain time.

Poor quality fastening of PVC window to the wall

If you skimp on dowels or anchors and there are too few of them to attach the window structure to the wall properly, over time the position of the window will change, the frame will become deformed, and it will be difficult for you to tear off and close the window.

Not enough polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is practically the only material for insulating a window structure and the wall itself to which it is attached. If there is not enough foam, the heat will escape. Therefore, the gap between the slope and the window frame must be filled properly, not sparing the mounting foam.

No insulation tape

If you decide not to use the insulating tape required by GOST on the inside and outside of the window structure, be prepared for the fact that the thermal insulation will gradually become worse and worse. Accordingly, the windows will deteriorate much faster than you would like.

Therefore, if you decide to install a plastic window with your own hands, try to go through all the necessary steps and perform all the necessary actions efficiently, carefully and slowly. Then your beautiful plastic windows, installed by yourself, will delight you and your household for many years.

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to completely clear the window opening and the space next to it:

• remove everything from the windowsill,
• take down the curtains
• clear the approach to the window by moving the furniture at least 1.5 meters from the window.

Protect the room from dust and dirt by covering the floor and furniture with cloth or thick oilcloth.

For ease of installation, supply 220V power via an extension cord and prepare garbage bags.

Removing the old frame

Once the room is ready for dust and debris to appear, begin dismantling the old window frame.

The sashes are removed from the window. Window casings are dismantled. If necessary, the slopes are dismantled (knocked down).

The old window frame is dismantled, which usually causes serious damage. If you want to use old windows, for example in a country house, you should specify the option of preserving the old windows when ordering.

The old sill and the old window sill are dismantled.

PVC window installation

The sashes are removed from the plastic window and the glass unit is removed. The window frame is inserted into the prepared opening and secured with anchor bolts or mounting plates. In this case, it is necessary to strictly ensure that the frame is level, and not along the opening (in houses there are often cases when the horizon line of the window opening is far from ideal; the frame should also be aligned vertically). Otherwise, the window will not function properly.

The gaps between the wall and the frame are foamed with polyurethane foam. Foam performs both an insulating function and is a fastening element. The overall result largely depends on the quality of this installation stage. The foam should be applied evenly and fill all the recesses and cavities of the opening, and the degree of expansion of the foam must be taken into account.

Installing a plastic window in most cases means that along with the new window a new window sill and a new sill will be installed. An exception is the case when the apartment (house, room) is undergoing renovation work and the window sill can be installed on its own.

If the window being mounted opens onto a balcony (as in this case), then it is quite practical and functional to install a window sill instead of a low tide (on the outside of the window).

If you have a good old sill, you can save it for a new window, but in this case you will need to restore it (restoration) - a paid service, the cost of which differs slightly from the cost of a new sill.

The window sill is cut to fit the opening and attached to the window (to the stand profile). If the opening under the window sill is small, then it foams. Otherwise, masonry or sealing of the opening with mortar is necessary. When installing a window sill board, make sure that it has an inclination from the window within 5 degrees, and that the overhang beyond the inner surface of the wall is no more than 60 mm.

When installing the window sill, you should take into account that its edges extend beyond the finishing of the internal slope to a depth of at least 15-20 mm.

Advice: when choosing the width (depth) of the window sill, it should be taken into account that the window sill is “recessed” under the window frame by 2 cm, so the width of the installed window sill will be 2 cm less)

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam, and when it dries, they are insulated. The outer layer of insulation is designed to protect the insulation layer (which is a layer of foam) from the penetration of moisture into it, as well as from the damaging effects of the sun.

So, the main part of the work is finished. However, to finish the opening there are not enough slopes (which are both a decorative addition, under which you can hide the mounting foam, and a functional element - increasing the thermal insulation and sound insulation of the window opening). Plastic slopes will give the window a finished look, moreover, this is the best combination with plastic windows.

Installation of plastic slopes

Plastic slopes are installed on the same day as the window for panel and block houses and on the second day for Stalinist houses.

The slopes are either a Belgian sandwich panel (in the image) or German VEKA plastic slopes with removable trims.

The differences between the various plastic slopes are not significant, but you should know them.

The Belgian sandwich panel can be installed at dawn (not at a right angle to the window), which visually increases the window opening. The choice of VEKA plastic slopes is justified for more accurate wallpapering with already installed slopes. Thanks to the removable casing, the edges of the wallpaper will be neatly hidden under it.

Advice: If you are renovating your apartment, then it is better to install platbands on the slopes from a Belgian sandwich panel after gluing the wallpaper yourself - it will turn out neater and prettier).

Installing accessories on windows

At the final stage, a double-glazed window is installed in the window frame and the sashes are hung. Additional accessories are installed, additional fittings and components are attached, such as: step ventilator, clamp, mosquito net, blinds, etc.

The window is ready. Upon completion of all work, a work acceptance certificate is signed. In it, if necessary, the customer indicates his comments on the work performed, if any.

Almost immediately after all the work is completed, the PVC window can be used. The exception is windows with large opening sashes, which are not recommended to be opened within 24 hours after installing a PVC window.

In terms of functionality, a plastic window is much better than old wooden windows. If you follow simple instructions for its care and use, it will last you forever.

Don't forget to remove the protective film from the outside of the PVC window!

According to GOST 30674 "Window blocks made of PVC profiles":
Removing the protective film from the front surfaces of the profiles should be done after installing the products and finishing the installation opening, taking into account that the duration of exposure to sunlight on the protective film should not exceed ten days.

If renovation work is still underway in the room where the windows were installed, the protective film may remain on the product until completion. However, on the outside, the film should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 10 days.

The adhesive base of the protective film loses its properties when exposed to heat and UV and can spoil the aesthetic appearance of the plastic profile.

General installation requirements according to GOST

GOST 30971-2002 “Mounting seams of junctions of window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions" was put into effect by order of the State Construction Committee of the Russian Federation on March 1, 2003.

Due to the need to adjust design documentation for design and construction organizations, the transition period for the development of GOST is set until 07/01/2003. The republics of Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova and Uzbekistan have joined the Russian standards.

What's new? New standards bring significant formalization of window installation and require numerous documents. Among them, it should be noted the need for each installation company to have “Window Installation Instructions” approved by local authorities, the need to develop window installation units for each facility under construction and coordination of units with the customer, it is recommended to analyze thermal fields, and also provides for the execution of delivery certificates - acceptance of window openings before installation, acts of hidden work and acceptance certificates of completed window installation.

Of particular interest in the standards are the Annexes:

• Appendix A (recommended) contains drawings with examples of window installation;
• Appendix B (recommended) sets out requirements for fastening windows in openings;
• Appendix B (mandatory) represents the actual requirements for the installation of windows as a whole and is essentially the main working document;
• Appendix D (recommended) describes the requirements for the method for calculating thermal fields (isotherm analysis).

In general, Russian installation standards bring us closer to the standards adopted in Europe, and, in particular, in Germany.

GOST requires a large number of formalities from window companies and has more requirements for testing joint designs and materials used for them.

Formalization is justified by the fight against Russian negligence.

Testing of materials and seams is generally justified by the fact that until now in Russia there were no detailed standards for installation at all, there is no accumulated scientific experience in determining the properties of installation materials and the quality of seams. Of course, there is no need for the consumer to know all the provisions of this GOST; this is the responsibility of professionals.

Without delving into the subtleties, we can talk about three basic principles for installing windows, to which you need to pay the closest attention.

Three layers of seam sealing

The content of the main part of the standards is devoted to the rules for filling the installation gap between window blocks and openings according to the principle “the inside is tighter than the outside.” Each installation unit must have three layers of sealing: on the outside - protection from climatic influences, in the middle - insulation, on the inside - vapor barrier. You can use different materials for the outer layers and different mounting foams, but, in one design or another, these three sealing planes must be present.

Outer layer is designed to protect the insulation layer from moisture penetration into it, and must be vapor permeable in order for the insulation to be ventilated through it. That is, the outer layer must be waterproof and vapor permeable.

These requirements are due to the fact that when moisture penetrates into the insulation, its thermal insulation qualities decrease. PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tapes) best meets modern requirements for the outer layer. These are special mounting tapes that are glued to the window frame before installing it in the opening, and then, expanding, they fill all the leaks in the quarter in the opening.

Despite serious advantages: optimal construction physics and technological simplicity, they also have disadvantages. It is convenient to use these tapes in new construction when the opening has good geometry. But when replacing windows in old houses, when the slopes are uneven, and even more so, plastered, their use is difficult. Another drawback is that PSUL cannot be covered with plaster.

To a limited extent, silicone can be used outside. In this case, certain rules must be observed: the thickness of the silicone layer must be half the width of the seam being filled, and the silicone must be glued only on two sides and work in tension, the remaining sides must remain free.

Sealant can be used when insulating the installation seam. Although it is not clearly stated in GOST, there is no ban on its use, no matter how much the supporters of mounting tapes might want it. An example of using silicone outside and inside a room is shown in node A.14 in GOST 30971-2002. It is unacceptable, of course, as can sometimes be observed on objects, to simply spread silicone on top of the foam - this is an imitation of seam protection, but not the protection itself.

Central layer– thermal insulation. Currently, polyurethane foams are used for its implementation. It is best to use foams designed specifically for window installation. Such foams fill the joint evenly and do not need to be trimmed after hardening. After installation, other foams hang in clumps from the side of the room, and they are cut off, breaking the protective outer crust.

Inner layer– vapor barrier. Its function is to protect the insulation (foam) from the penetration of moisture vapor from the room. For these purposes, when plastering slopes, vapor barrier tapes, mainly butyl-based, are used, as well as paint-based vapor barriers for moisture-resistant plasterboards. It is possible to use silicone according to the rules mentioned above.

No cold bridges

An assembly seam is a node where the joining of wall and window structures, which have completely different properties, including in terms of heating technology, occurs. And it is important to make the knots in such a way that there are no cold bridges on the window slopes.

Basically, the problem of cold bridges is a problem of single-layer wall structures that were used in houses of past years (solid brick, expanded clay concrete, etc.). In this case, the weak area is the wall itself around the window frame due to its low heat transfer resistance. An area appears on the slope with a surface temperature below the dew point. In this area, firstly, high heat losses occur, and secondly, condensation occurs on it. If moisture condensation on a slope occurs frequently, then fungus (mold) may subsequently form in these places. The same applies to openings without quarters. In their absence, the danger of cold bridges seriously increases, and here the heating engineering of the junction units should be especially carefully considered.

An important recommendation is that if quarters are missing, use window frames with a width of at least 130 mm. With a narrow window frame, high-quality sealing of the seam is difficult and the likelihood of cold bridges is high. The options given in GOST with false quarters from the corners or from the platband are possible only with external plaster, and still remain problematic from the point of view of heating engineering.

If there is effective insulation in the wall (mineral wool or non-flammable polystyrene foam), the window should be placed either in the plane of the insulation or behind a quarter of the insulation. In walls where aerated concrete is combined with external cladding and brick quarters, as a rule, cold bridges also do not occur due to the good thermal properties of aerated concrete.

Fastening the window block in the opening

The specificity of plastic windows is that they have significant thermal linear expansion. That is, when windows are heated by the sun's rays, the bars of the frame and sashes increase in size. The calculated thermal expansion values ​​for white windows should be 1.5 mm per 1 linear meter, for colored windows - 2.5 mm per 1 running meter (the difference in thermal expansion is due to the fact that white window profiles heat up significantly less than colored ones).

In accordance with this factor, the window is fastened to the wall. The corners of plastic windows must remain free; the outer fastening elements are placed at a distance of 150 mm from the inner corners of the frames. The remaining fasteners are placed around the entire perimeter with a pitch of no more than 70 cm for white profiles, and no more than 60 cm for colored profiles. Near the imposts, the fasteners are also placed at a distance of 150 mm from the corner. The gap between the frame and the wall must be at least 15 mm. This is due both to the thermal expansion of windows and to the fact that a thinner seam is very difficult to fill evenly with foam insulation.

Bearing blocks are placed under the lower corners of the box and under the imposts. The blocks are also placed on the sides as follows: if you look at the window from the inside, then with one turning sash, the blocks are placed on the side opposite the hinges at the top and on the same side as the hinges at the bottom. With two doors, four blocks are installed, respectively.

Schematic diagrams of junctions between window frames and walls

1 – window sill board;
2 – foam insulation;
3 – vapor barrier tape;
4 – flexible anchor plate;
5 – support block for the window sill board;
6 – plaster mortar;
7 – dowel with locking screw;
8 – liner made of antiseptic lumber or leveling layer of plaster mortar (recommended only for the lower unit);
9 – waterproofing, vapor-permeable tape;
10 – noise-absorbing gasket;
11 – drain;
12 – insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL);
13 – thin layer of sealant

1 – foam insulation;
2 – insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL) or vapor-permeable mastic;
3 – frame dowel;
4 – sealant;
5 – vapor barrier tape;
6 – panel for finishing the internal slope;
7 – plaster leveling layer of the internal slope.

Thermal gaps must be taken into account especially carefully when designing large-sized glazing elements: when making bay windows, shop windows, glazing to the entire height of the floor. These are the three main principles when installing modern windows, although, of course, there are many nuances and subtleties that depend on the different wall designs and on the materials used for sealing the seam. And - as we already said at the beginning of the article - the human factor is very important - responsible and high-quality work of installers.

Deviations from vertical and horizontal

According to GOST 30971-2002 “Mounting seams of joints connecting window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions", pp. 5.6.4 Deviations from the vertical and horizontal of the mounted window units should not exceed 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, but not more than 3 mm per product height.

In the updated version of GOST 30971 from 2012, the maximum deviations of the window and door unit from the vertical and horizontal levels are the same (clause 5.2.4) - no more than 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, and no more than 3 mm per height of the entire product .

When can windows be installed?

With the entry into force of Moscow Law No. 42 “On Silence”, disturbing the peace of neighbors is an administrative violation. Carefully read our instructions on carrying out noisy work in order to comply with the requirements in force in Moscow and the Moscow region in various buildings.

How much does it cost to install windows according to GOST?

The cost consists of two components: the cost of work (hours) and materials.

The installation seam will comply with GOST for the installation of windows, when using both expensive and economical materials. The use of one or the other will affect the stages (duration) of the work and the final cost of window installation.

Video instructions for installing plastic windows