In the interior of the kitchen

Along with various options for finishing the ceiling, which require a lot of investment, time and the involvement of qualified specialists, there is an equally common, and well-proven, method.

In a relatively short time, choosing a tile suitable for the room and preparing the ceiling for work, it is easy to figure out this simple matter. Also in the article you will find information on how to stick products diagonally.

Finishing

Decal tiles on the ceiling begins with the right choice of quality polystyrene products.

Choice

So:

• The geometry of a square tile must comply with the geometric parameters, that is, all angles must be 90 degrees, and the sides, of course, must have equal lengths. Without this, it is impossible to achieve high-quality docking - however, the cracks can be sealed with putty or acrylic sealant, but, we think, no one needs extra dances with a tambourine.
• The quality of the feedstock and the structure of polystyrene are evaluated, the relief of the product must be evenly clear and even.
• Homogeneous polystyrene grains of fine fraction, without voids, are an indicator of quality

• A tile made in violation of technology is characterized by the presence of defects (irregularities, shells, sagging or depressions) on the surface of the relief, as well as rounded or crumpled corners, crumbling edges. Qualitatively, without gaps, it is not possible to lay and join such tiles.
• The sticker of products with flaws is used to fill in small areas along the walls and in inconspicuous places, if it is possible to cut out the defective part.

Features and types

Modern polystyrene foam tiles are a universal material for finishing the ceiling in different rooms:

• It is especially popular in the living room, bedroom and office. Here, this design looks very advantageous due to the visual increase in the height of the ceiling.
• Styrofoam products are used when finishing the ceiling in the kitchen, however, a protective laminated coating is applied to it.
• When planning the decoration of a children's room, the material is selected with a special sound-absorbing layer.
• For the bathroom or toilet, smooth white or slightly corrugated tiles are used.

Such foam products are made in one of three ways that determine its properties.

May be:

• Pressed foam. For its manufacture, blocks of polystyrene are taken and the necessary parts are obtained by stamping. It differs:

1. low density;
2. small weight;
3. thickness ranging from 6 to 8 millimeters.

• extruded(cm. ). Pressed from polystyrene strip. In this type, the density is higher, the surface is quite smooth and shiny, it imitates the surface of marble, wood and other material in appearance.
• Injection. In this case, sintering of raw materials is performed in special molds, without destroying the granules. Its surface acquires beautiful and clear relief patterns, the thickness of the tiles is from 9 to 14 millimeters. It is carried out with straight shapes around the perimeter, and after gluing to the ceiling, the seams are practically invisible.

Calculation and purchase of necessary materials

• The calculation of the number of tiles for a particular room can be made by dividing the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room (length * width) by the area of ​​​​one product. This manipulation is usually promptly foreseen by the seller, so you can only stock up on the size of the room before buying.
• The most common ceiling tile size is 50 x50 cm. (4 pieces), or 2 sq.m. (8 pcs.).
• Given the possibility of manufacturing or installation defects, especially if the ceiling tiles are installed diagonally, depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and the method of installation, you should purchase 5-10% more material.
• It is preferable to purchase tiles from one batch of production - the batch number, the number of meters and the date of manufacture must be indicated, instructions are attached for this.

Tip: When purchasing a tile, it is logical to purchase a ceiling plinth made of the same material, similar in design, suitable in width and color, in the required quantity.

In the photo - special glue

Ceiling tile sticker also requires the purchase of an optimally suitable adhesive.

How to choose the right glue

Ceiling tiles can be glued to concrete, gypsum, brick, wood, metal, plasterboard and other substrates. produced for facade adhesives, tile adhesive mixtures, liquid nails, mastics, silicone sealants, etc.

Attention. Adhesives containing organic solvents (acetone, gasoline, ethers, etc.) dissolve polystyrene.

Especially for polystyrene, high-tech mounting adhesives (Titan, Moment, etc.) on a polymer basis have been developed. They are well combined with any surfaces of the ceilings, securely hold the tiles.

• When choosing glue, first of all, you need to focus on the material from which the tile you bought is made. Probably the most versatile composition will be liquid nails glue.
• The price of polymer adhesives is quite affordable.
• Ceiling tiles are glued on a dry, clean, even, solid and primed base.

Tool

Before gluing ceiling tiles, you should stock up on everything you need:

• Chopping cord for marking the surface. It is sold in hardware stores, chalk is also purchased in the kit, which is poured into a container and stains the thread for beating landmarks on any grounds;
• construction knife cuts tiles perfectly, it is better to have an option with a blade width of 25 mm on hand, it is much tougher and more convenient to use. Get spare blades in the kit, as they become dull during operation;
• Adjustable elbow- an indispensable tool if diagonal tiling is performed. This device is fixed at any angle, which greatly simplifies the marking of tiles and eliminates errors during the cutting process;

• Sealant gun. With it, liquid nails are applied, which will be used when gluing. The tool costs a little, but greatly simplifies and speeds up the workflow;
• Tape measure and pencil used for measuring and marking. You can use a long ruler, but a tape measure is more convenient;
• Since you will have to work on the ceiling, you need a ladder or table. The height of the device should be comfortable so that you do not rest your head on the surface and do not stand with outstretched arms.

Ceiling preparation

When carrying out repairs in old premises, the ceiling base, using a hard metal spatula, (if it is fragile and peels off). There should be no flaking, loose areas, as well as crumbling seams and potholes.

• The cleaned ceiling of both the old and the new premises is swept with a broom (vacuum cleaner) and treated with a primer.
• A dry, primed ceiling is inspected to identify the largest defects (displacement of floor slabs, cracks, potholes, concrete sagging and other pronounced troubles).

• All irregularities more than 3-5 mm, with the help of liquid mixtures, are leveled (read more). Potholes and smaller sinks are able to hide ceiling tiles.
• During installation, more careful leveling of the base is required.
• After the mixtures have hardened, the repaired areas are again subject to priming. Wood, plywood, plasterboard and other ceilings are also subject to soil treatment.
• The primed ceiling base provides more reliable interaction with any adhesives.

Before sticking tiles to the ceiling, its location is determined.

Ceiling markings

How can you position

In old-style rooms, it is very rare to find a room with regular geometric shapes, so in such rooms it is more rational to use the diagonal gluing method, in which the tile sticker starts from the center of the ceiling or from the installation point of the central chandelier.

How to tile diagonally? Everything is quite simple!

• The first thing is the center of the room. This point is located at the intersection of two building cords stretched from diagonally opposite angles.

Advice! There are cases when the center of the ceiling and the location of the main chandelier do not match. In this case, you should be guided by the lamp, although exceptions are possible.

• Next, we determine what we will have in the center - a solid tile or a butt joint. The first option without cutting the tiles is possible only with the chandelier removed.
• Next, two lines are drawn strictly perpendicular to the walls and to each other, drawn through the center of the ceiling. It is they who will guide us at the beginning of the work.

How to glue diagonally

• In the installation option from a chandelier, the corners of four tiles are cut off for fasteners and power supply of the lighting fixture. At the next stage of work, this place is covered with a decorative overlay of the chandelier.

How to glue the ceiling tiles correctly - make the cutout so that it is sure to hide under the decorative trim of the chandelier

In fact, the main difference between diagonal installation is the trimming of all extreme elements, while the next option allows you to install whole tiles at least two walls.

Faster and easier installation of plates - parallel to the walls. It is produced from the wall, which is the most visible in the room. This method of laying is practical and convenient in small areas.

Installation

How to paste

If installation is carried out in winter, then the tile should lie down in room conditions for at least two hours.

So:

• Before sticking tiles on the ceiling, you should carefully read the instructions for using the adhesive composition. Processes for sticking to adhesives from different manufacturers may vary slightly.
• Some manufacturers of adhesive compositions recommend that within a few minutes after applying the composition to the surface, withstand the glue for partial swelling for a while, and only then combine the parts with the ceiling. The technologies of other adhesive manufacturers do not require this time.
• Recommended for each individual type of polystyrene tiles, the adhesive composition is applied to the tiles and the ceiling dotted, dotted or completely. Some types of tiles have special areas for applying glue on the mounting side.
• With the help of a napkin or a foam rubber sponge, the tile with applied glue is pressed tightly around the entire perimeter to the ceiling so that there are no signs of punching on the front surface.
• Protruding adhesive is removed immediately with a dry and clean cloth.

Sticking sequence

Exactly according to the markup, in the center of the ceiling or the location of the chandelier, the first tile is fixed. Following the markup, subsequent products are mounted tightly to the first plate.

Perfectly inscribed in country style

In order to comply with the technology, during the installation process it is necessary to control the alignment of the sides and monitor compliance with the pattern, if any.

On the mounting side of some types of tiles there is a special marking in the form of arrows. When installing such a tile, the arrows should have the same direction, as in the video.

So:

• Neighboring, in order to avoid displacement before the polymerization of the glue, it is convenient to temporarily fix them together using masking (paper) tape.
• The rows of slabs adjacent to the walls are cut in most cases. In such cases, preliminary, with the help of a tape measure, measurements are taken on the ceiling, and transferred to the tile with a pencil. After cutting with a construction knife, the desired fragment is tried on to the designated place, and fixed with glue.
• At the next stage of painting work, at the junction of the ceiling and walls, a plinth is mounted. It is possible to attach the plinth with the same glue on which the ceiling tiles are glued, but it is more efficient to use a special adhesive putty that can hide all the gaps between the plinth and the relief.

Skirting board installation

• The joints between the plates are filled, if necessary, with white acrylic sealants. The use of silicone sealant is not recommended.

Care is carried out with a vacuum cleaner with a soft nozzle, grease marks are removed with alcohol, other dirt is wiped off with a clerical washing gum. Water ingress on some types of products is undesirable.

Knowing how to stick ceiling tiles, you can quite efficiently do all the work with your own hands. You should first familiarize yourself with the work of professionals using the thematic video.

Tired of wallpaper or monotonous coloring - glue tiles on the ceiling. This is a very simple and quick way to change the interior of the room. Anyone, even a novice master, will be able to perform such work. We will tell you how to properly glue the ceiling tiles.

The material from which this coating is made is foam. It not only well detains extraneous noise from neighboring apartments and premises, but also performs the function of a thermal screen. Styrofoam creates the effect of a thermos and significantly reduces heat loss.

The styrofoam ceiling plate is available with all sorts of patterns, so you can choose the material for every taste. The light weight of the tile makes it possible to quickly perform installation work almost alone. However, it is worth noting that it is recommended to mark the ceiling together.

On sale there are even foam plates that mimic the coffered ceiling. Such ceilings can be observed in medieval castles and palaces. To arrange an old ceiling in your apartment or house is not difficult and special financial costs. Ceiling gluing refers to the budget option for finishing, and does not require large financial investments.

After pasting the ceiling, foam boards can be painted with acrylic paint for interior use. This allows you to make a glued ceiling to match the tone, color and style of wall and floor coverings. The ceiling tile looks finished when paired with the foam ceiling plinth. Such slats often repeat plaster moldings.

We calculate the material

The ceiling tile has the following format or size - 0.3 x 0.3 m, 0.5 x 0.5 m. There are also various figured (carved) slabs, however, they also have a clearly marked amount of area.

Before gluing the ceiling tiles, you need to calculate the amount. To do this, you need to divide the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling of the room by the area of ​​​​one tile. When performing installation work, trimming to size or even accidental destruction due to negligence is inevitable. To take into account all losses and accidental overspending, 10-15% must be added to the figure obtained.

If you do not know which tile you are going to choose, then you can use another option:

• Multiply the length and width of the room
• Add 10-15% to the resulting ceiling area
• Purchase in the building materials store only such an area of ​​\u200b\u200bceiling tiles that is obtained after calculations

In the event that the ceiling tiles are glued diagonally, the stock of material is calculated in the same way.

In order to choose the right adhesive for ceiling tiles, you need to check with the store manager what adhesive to glue the ceiling tiles with or read in the instructions or certificate attached. Usually such glue is always in the same place.

The consumption rate of the adhesive is indicated on its packaging. It is necessary to buy glue in accordance with its consumption per 1 square meter, regardless of the size of the ceiling tile. It is also worth thinking about choosing a ceiling plinth, without which the ceiling will not be completed. Its quantity is equal to the perimeter of the ceiling of the room.

Important to remember! To compensate for the length of the plinth when cutting, 3-5% is added to the total figure. Glue it with the same glue as the ceiling tiles.

Installation

Before the ceiling tile is applied, the existing ceiling must be leveled. To do this, it is recommended to completely remove the old whitewash or water-based paint coating.

After that, the ceiling is carefully puttied, and all irregularities (differences, pits and cracks) are removed. When the putty dries, it is rubbed with sandpaper or an abrasive mesh until the surface is smooth and even. The prepared surface is primed with a deep penetration compound, such as CERESIT or the like.

After 3-4 hours, the primer will dry and you can start marking the ceiling. To do this, you need to determine the center of the ceiling. To do this, it is enough to draw the diagonals of the existing ceiling. At the place of their intersection, the center of the ceiling will be located. This point is also important when gluing the ceiling tiles diagonally.

Mark the midpoints of opposite walls and stretch the thread, no matter what kind of ceiling tiles are being installed. Their intersection should be in the center of the ceiling. If the walls are of different lengths, then make the appropriate amendments. Draw center lines along the threads with a pencil. According to them, in consequence, the pasting of the ceiling tiles will be oriented.

Glue is applied to the first tile in strips with a step of 15-20 mm. 5-10 mm recede from the edge of the tile. This is necessary so that excess glue does not fall on the front surface. It has a delicate surface on which fingerprints can remain.

Ceiling tiles or foam tiles are applied at any corner from the intersection of the center lines in the center, and are pressed tightly over the entire surface. Excess adhesive for ceiling tiles around the edges is removed with a clean rag or sponge. The second tile must be glued end-to-end first in the second corner from the center of the ceiling. Hold it for about 1-2 minutes, after which it is released and proceed to pasting the next plate.

It's important to know! Before gluing, it is necessary to remove the existing burrs from each plate from its edges.

If this is not done, then it will be very difficult to achieve minimal joints. The ceiling slab is pasted over in a circle from the center. Perform trimming if necessary. Cutting foam tiles for the ceiling is very simple. To do this, mark it with a pencil and a ruler and cut it off with a clerical knife. Cutting a hole for a chandelier from a ceiling tile is also not difficult.

After the entire ceiling is covered with tiles, you can putty the cracks. Now you need to put the ceiling plinth. It is rather difficult to glue the foam baseboard rail, however, there are some secrets here that will make the job easier.

In order not to press liquid nails treated with glue or composition for 3-4 minutes, you can gently nail it with a small nail to the wall into a layer of plaster. They do this with an interval of 0.5 m. When the glue dries completely (18-24 hours), the nails are boldly removed, and the holes are filled with acrylic putty.

The joints of the ceiling plinth are also puttied. To get the correct and beautiful joints of the plinth in the corners, it is cut in a joiner's miter box at an angle of 45 degrees. After puttying all the joints of the ceiling panels and the plinth, it is recommended to paint the entire surface with acrylic paint. Now such a ceiling is difficult to distinguish from a real gypsum stucco

A beautiful and elegant ceiling not only decorates any room, but creates a cozy atmosphere in the house. Ceiling tiles are a way out for those who are fed up with the ideal evenness of the ceiling. Ornate patterns, imitation of stone or wood, a variety of colors help to enliven the interior of any room. Easy installation and budget added pluses to the popularity of this finish.

Types of ceiling tiles

Before choosing the right option, you need to figure out what kind of pvc tile is for the ceiling.

Today, manufacturers present this decorative ceiling covering in three types:

1. Pressed. This is the cheapest type of finish, the product is created by stamping. Thickness in finished form - from 6 to 8 mm. A seamless tile ceiling, imitating a solid coating, is most often represented by stamping.
2. extruded. Produced by pressing. Its surface is perfectly smooth, no graininess, as the product is painted or coated with a film. The thickness of the finished product is from 2.5 to 3 mm. This type of ceiling finish is distinguished by special strength and durability. It is this coating that perfectly imitates natural materials. If you need a wood effect ceiling tile, it will be extruded.
3. Injection. During its production, very high temperatures are used. Sintering gives the finished product increased strength. Thickness - 9-14 mm.

To save the budget, use pressed - its range is quite wide and varied. To create an exclusive design, extruded with a wide range of decorative properties is more suitable.

Wall marking rules

To create a work of art on your ceiling, it is not enough to buy a coating with an intricate pattern. Before you glue the ceiling tiles with your own hands, you need to decide how the coating will be installed. A stylish interior is created using multi-colored tiles, which are glued in a checkerboard pattern or in the form of a snake. The usual options are diagonal and straight.

Before you properly start gluing the ceiling tiles, you need to mark the ceiling. The scheme of future work will avoid trouble in the form of noticeable seams or violations of the pattern.

Markup from the center

The essence of the method is simple: connect the opposite corners of the room with a regular thread. The intersection of the lines is the center of the ceiling, from which the installation begins.

If you intend to glue the tiles to the ceiling diagonally, then no additional action is needed. The threads connecting the corners will serve as markings. The corner of the first square is placed in the designated center of the room. The rest are mounted relative to it.

For mounting in a straight line, you need to draw two more lines. Threads to determine the center divided the ceiling into four parts, forming triangles. For marking, you need to draw lines perpendicular to each other. The new lines pass through the vertex of each triangle at a 45 degree angle. Removing the threads with which we searched for the center of the ceiling, we get two lines of direct marking. The squares of the coating are laid relative to these lines.

Marking from the chandelier

Not always markup from the center will be a good option. The difficulty lies in the fact that the chandelier rarely hangs clearly in the geometric center of the ceiling. Due to the displacement of the light source, installation becomes more complicated - you will have to cut a hole for the lamp cable.

Where to start gluing ceiling tiles in this case? Experts advise gluing not from the geometric center of the ceiling, but from the chandelier. And the installation is easier, and the harmony in the interior is not broken.

The marking technology is the same, but you do not need to look for the center of the ceiling. Lines (straight or diagonal) are drawn through the chandelier hole.

Marking from the corner

Mounting from a corner is the most straightforward way to mark up. It simply won't be needed. The corner of the first square is mounted in the corner of the ceiling. If the sticker option is suitable in a straight line, the whole square is glued first.

Algorithm for mounting diagonally:

• Cut the square in half diagonally;
• Glue the resulting triangle into a corner;
• Glue the whole square with the second, connecting the side with the cut side of the glued one;
• Mount the remaining squares of the cover, respectively, the first two.

In order to hide the unevenness of the ceiling, use multi-colored tiles. It can be laid out in the form of a chessboard or a snake.

How to choose glue

If you decide to update the ceiling in a room or in the kitchen, then you will probably wonder what kind of adhesive is best for gluing ceiling tiles. A small overview of popular adhesives will help you make the right choice.

Before deciding what to glue the ceiling tiles on, you need to understand what requirements to apply to the candidate:

1. The glue should dry quickly. The strength of the coating and the speed of work depends on this.
2. The adhesive must be sufficiently viscous to hold the coating (even such a light one) on the ceiling.
3. The adhesive must be white or transparent so as not to spoil the appearance of the finished ceiling.
4. The glue must be universal in order to glue different surfaces.

So what is the best adhesive for ceiling tiles?

Glue Titanium for ceiling tiles has a high viscosity. This means you don't have to press it against the ceiling while waiting for the adhesive to set. Titanium is a popular adhesive for pvc tiles due to its affordable cost and versatility. It is suitable for gluing various materials, so the remaining glue is always useful in the household.

Clay Master for ceiling tiles has a too strong smell. You will have to work with it with an open window, and temperature changes will negatively affect the installation. The negative qualities of this glue can be safely attributed to the duration of drying. Even after several hours, the finish is easily moved.

Dragon Polymer All-Purpose Adhesive also has an unpleasant, persistent odor and a drying time.

Acrylic putty is usually used for finishing work before painting or wallpapering. But its qualities - density and good tenacity - allow it to be used for finishing the ceiling.

When choosing how to glue the tiles, you need to pay attention to the convenience of packaging. Tile glue in tubes is much more convenient to use than in cans.

Installation of tiles on the ceiling

Installation of a new ceiling coating is carried out after surface preparation. In this case, the old coating can be left in place.

If you still do not know what to glue first: wallpaper or ceiling tiles? To this tricky question, experts say there is no difference in the order in which the work is done. After all, one does not interfere with the other. And all the irregularities at the meeting point of two perpendicular planes can be hidden with skirting boards.

It is allowed to glue ceiling tiles on whitewash. The main rule in this case is the surface primer. Contrary to popular belief, the coating will hold firmly and long enough. Especially if you still clean those places where the whitewash is cracking and moving away from the ceiling.

If everything is simple with whitewashed ceilings and wallpaper, then gluing ceiling tiles on old ceiling tiles is definitely not worth it. This will affect the quality of installation and the appearance of the ceiling. The old finish is noticeably translucent, and such a coating is held very poorly.

If you decide to prepare the ceiling carefully, then the video tutorial below will help you:

The classic installation method is the answer to the question of how to properly glue ceiling tiles. This coating method involves cleaning the ceiling, leveling its surface, priming, preparing all the tools, and then decorative finishing.

Installation steps in pictures:

Answers to the most popular questions will help you quickly and competently update the ceiling:

1. How to apply adhesive to ceiling tiles? Special compounds are applied dotted around the entire perimeter and in the center for strength. Acrylic putty should be applied in an even strip around the entire perimeter.
2. How to glue ceiling tiles on an uneven ceiling? In this case, the glue must be applied around the perimeter in an even layer. If the ceiling is too uneven, then no finish will save the situation. Visually correct the irregularities will not work, as well as glue the coating with high quality. The ceiling in this case is better to align.
3. How to clean ceiling tiles? Care must be taken during installation. But if the glue still got on the front side, it is better to immediately remove it with a dry cloth.
4. How to clean the ceiling from tile adhesive? When removing the old coating, you need to remove all traces of its presence, including glue. An effective way is mechanical removal using a special power tool (grinder) or a conventional spatula and chisel. Less labor-intensive use of solvents.
5. Can ceiling tiles be glued to wallpaper? Oddly enough, you can. Recommendations, as in the first case: remove the wallpaper in those places where they already move away from the ceiling. In this case, it is important to consider that bright wallpaper shines through the white coating. It is allowed to glue wallpaper on the ceiling tiles, of course, if its surface is without relief.

We wish you good luck with your tasks when repairing the ceiling!

Ceiling tiles are a common ceiling design option in residential areas. Even now, when more and more people are choosing stretch ceilings, they are happy to use it in repairs, because it has a lot of advantages. This is a great option to create a beautiful, practical interior at a minimum cost. The cost of this type of material is extremely low, and you can handle the installation yourself, without resorting to the services of finishers.

The most popular type of ceiling tiles are square or rectangular styrofoam (styrofoam) slabs. Ceilings with this finish are also called "glue", "glued" or "pasted". The front surface can be laminated or simple, smooth and embossed, painted to look like wood texture, fabric, stone or imitating stucco and wood carving.

Styrofoam ceiling tiles are glued to almost any surface: from concrete to wood chip boards. Laminate tiles can also be used in the kitchen. For wet rooms, only waterproof extruded panels are suitable.

There are three types of polystyrene ceiling tiles:

1. Pressed or stamped. Thickness - 6-7 mm.
2. Injection (thickness - 9-14 mm). It is obtained by casting and sintering polystyrene foam raw materials in molds.
3. extruded. Pressed from extruded strip. Can be painted or film coated.

The standard size of a ceiling tile is 50x50 cm for a square tile and 100x16.5 cm for a rectangular tile.

Advantages and disadvantages of foam ceiling tiles

Polystyrene is a lightweight, environmentally friendly material. It is dense, therefore it has soundproofing and heat-insulating properties. At the same time, the ceiling panels are perfectly cut, easy and quick to install.

Expanded polystyrene is difficult to ignite, but easily melts (begins to deform at temperatures above 80 ° C). With pipes of water heating, they can be glued closely. But do not place fixtures too close, especially with powerful lamps and open tops. Light bulbs should be at a distance of 20-30 cm from the ceiling surface. With all the advantages, adhesive ceilings are not very durable; they turn yellow over time from sunlight. Some types of tiles do not tolerate moisture. In addition, it is difficult to achieve the impression of a solid surface due to the large number of joints and seams.

Ceiling tile care

Laminated polystyrene tiles are wiped with a damp sponge and warm soapy water, preventing water from getting under the tile. Simple non-laminated boards are wiped with a dry cloth or vacuumed gently using a soft nozzle. Small dirt is removed with an ordinary eraser, and traces of grease from white plates are washed off with alcohol. Solvents such as gasoline, turpentine, acetone can ruin tiles.

How to glue ceiling tiles. Instruction.

Step one- Preparation of foam tiles and ceiling

The tile is not a capricious thing, but it reacts to changes in humidity and temperature. After you bring it into the room, open the packages and let it lie down for 2-3 hours. This will avoid its deformation after installation.

During this time, prepare the ceiling

We remove old wallpaper, tiles and whitewash. We check for the absence of loose or flaking areas. The ceiling surface must be clean, dry and even. Putty is needed only with significant surface differences. Potholes and minor chips are perfectly covered with ceiling tiles. But it is always desirable to prime.

step two- Ceiling markings

Now decide on the location of the tiles on the ceiling. You can glue tiles at any angle to the walls, but the most convenient way is to mount them parallel to the walls or diagonally. It is better to start installation from the center of the ceiling or the place where the chandelier is installed. To find the center, stretch 2 twine diagonally from one corner to the other. Draw two perpendicular lines through the center point with a marker (or also pull the threads). It is important to align the first rows, it depends on how evenly the rest will lie.

Step Three- We lay the first row of non-plastic tiles

How to apply adhesive to ceiling tiles

Gluing rules may vary slightly depending on the adhesive used.
It is necessary to apply glue completely or dotted on special ledges on the reverse side of the tile or in the middle and in the corners, as well as on the ceiling.

If you use a special adhesive such as ELTITAN (which is desirable), then the tiles can withstand 10-15 minutes before laying. It is convenient to apply glue on 3-4 tiles at once, so that by the time the glue is applied to 3 or 4 tiles, the first one can already be glued.

For a porous ceiling, it is desirable to apply a thicker layer of mastic.

The key to a beautiful, even ceiling is geometrically consistent tile sizes. Therefore, pay attention to its shape: sometimes it has uneven cuts, which will affect the quality of the coating.

We glue the first ceiling tile

We glue the first tile so that one of its corners is located exactly at the center point (here, as a result, 4 central tiles will converge). If there is a fixture for a chandelier at this point, they need to be cut off the corners. This place will later be covered with a chandelier plate or a special ceiling rosette.

Align the edges of the tiles along the marked perpendicular lines. When sticking, the tiles must be pressed tightly against the ceiling, but in such a way as not to leave dents.

Second and subsequent rows

Arrange the next tiles in parallel rows, avoiding gaps between the edges. Focus on the triangular arrows on the back - they should look in the same direction. The last rows, most often, have to be cut with a knife to the desired size, and after trying on, apply glue. When buying, it is worth considering a certain supply of tiles for fitting. The gap between the extreme tiles and the wall will be closed with a ceiling plinth. Residues of glue are immediately removed with a sponge. Step four: We cover the cracks

Ceiling tiles without seams are, in principle, possible. To ensure that the coating looks like a single whole, and that water does not penetrate between the seams, all gaps between the tiles must be filled with sealant. The silicone sealant is temperature and water resistant. After filling, smooth it with a trowel or fingers, and remove the excess with a damp cloth.

Final touches

Now glue the ceiling socket by cutting a hole in the middle for the chandelier. We mount the ceiling plinth. It is installed last, along with borders and stucco.

At the end of the work, the doors and windows in the rooms must be tightly closed to prevent air movement.

When funds do not allow for a multi-level ceiling design or there are budget restrictions, ceiling tiles are used. This material is unique: with its simplicity, it allows you to update any interior without much effort and the involvement of repair teams.

You can make the ceiling tiling yourself: it will not take much time, and the result will look quite professional.

Peculiarities

Ceiling tiles are mainly square-shaped fragments of different sizes (about 50 x 50 cm) made of natural and synthetic material. If earlier they were exclusively white, today on store shelves you can find blue, beige, pinkish, milky tiles, as well as options with a color pattern. This material, folding into a monolithic canvas, forms different patterns that give the space of any room elegance and comfort.

Ceiling tiles and surface texture differ. It can be matte and glossy. The material is unique in that some of its varieties allow the surface to be painted. Thanks to this, there is no need to re-glue the lining if the surface is dirty. To update, it is enough to roll it with a roller with paint or spatula. So you can maintain a beautiful and fresh appearance of the ceiling for up to 10 years.

A distinctive feature of the material is sound insulation: ceiling tiles make the room warmer, reducing extraneous noise from neighboring apartments. It doesn't matter how thick it is. Depending on the type of material and its density, these raw materials need to be handled carefully and gently. It is necessary to glue such a tile carefully, otherwise, at the time of pasting the ceiling, a fragment can be deformed, leaving unsightly dents on its surface that are visible to the naked eye.

In working with tiles, the possibility of breakage is not ruled out so cutting should be done with a sharp tool. If there are nicks on the cutting blade at the time of cutting, the material may be chipped, which can lead to breaking off the corner. Dirty and rusty tools should not be used in the work: they can lead to contamination of the glued fragments, which is especially noticeable in the overall picture of the cladding. Even the cleanliness of the hands matters: they will constantly have to be washed, since the adhesive composition gets on them during the finishing process. It is unacceptable for it to get on the tile, this will be noticeable, since not every adhesive can be removed from the surface perfectly.

To finish the ceiling, you will have to buy material with a margin: this will eliminate the lack of panels in case of marriage or improper cutting when fitting.

Panel types

Ceiling panels are classified according to the method of production, type of surface, shape, material of manufacture and size. Thanks to these features, you can visually change the area of ​​\u200b\u200bspace, beat surface irregularities. Today, these panels are made from synthetics (polystyrene), wood, and even metal, although it is rarely used for decoration. The disadvantage of many varieties is the low resistance to combustion, although the manufacturing technology provides for the impregnation of the material with a special composition that prevents ignition.

Manufacturing method

According to the type of production, ceiling tiles are divided into 3 varieties:

• stamped- material created by pressing foam blocks with a thickness of 6-8 mm (rather fragile material with no protective layer and instability to pollution, used due to its low cost);

• injection- a variety formed by sintering in a mold with further processing at high temperature, having a thickness of 9-14 mm (polystyrene foam category with high relief and pattern clarity, capable of imitating stone, marble, wood, tile and ceramic tiles, numbering in the assortment category for painting);

• extruded- a category, the creation process of which is associated with the pressure of an extruded polystyrene foam strip under pressure, it has high quality indicators compared to the two previous types of finishes (it is strong, reliable, durable, hygienic and able to restore its original shape if it is deformed, glue and cut it much easier).

Surface type

According to the type of surface, ceiling tiles can be:

• laminated;
• mirror;
• seamless.

Laminated material is distinguished by the presence of a special film on the surface - lamination. This feature makes the finishing panels moisture resistant, durable, resistant to fading. Due to the laminated film, this ceiling tile has a different shade. The mirror variety is a design option: it is mainly a plastic tile, on the surface of which there is a mirror layer. This option, in addition to the square shape, is rectangular. The seamless type of raw materials is different in that no seams are visible during gluing, while the tile can have classic linear borders or curly lines. It is durable, thermally stable, resistant to moisture, practical and paintable.

Shape and dimensions

These criteria are especially important: it depends on the amount of consumables. The calculation formula is quite simple: measure the length and width of the ceiling, multiply and divide by the number of square meters of material, based on the number of fragments in one package. Usually a factory packed block of 50 x 50 cm consists of 8 blanks. It's basically 2 sq. m.

This parameter is the most demanded, although in addition to it, there are other standards in production, for example:

• 30 x 30 cm - for small rooms;
• 16.5 x 100 cm - for lovers of non-standard techniques.

The inconvenience of calculating a rectangular tile is the need for a symmetrical fit of the pattern, otherwise, due to an incorrectly located pattern, the ceiling may look visually skewed. In this case, pasting with a shift makes sense.

Choosing glue

Properly selected glue is the basis of successful work. Often it is he who slows down the process. Some types of adhesives are enough to attach to the ceiling, they quickly set. Others will have to be fixed by pressing the surface for a while. To date, several varieties of tile adhesive have been proposed for ceiling tiles. It can be transparent, white and beige. The structure is also different. Let's consider a few:

"Titanium"

This glue is divided into 2 types: one of them is transparent, sold in bottles, has a specific smell. Its disadvantage is the viscosity of the structure. Application is inconvenient because the adhesive stretches, forming threads, which distracts from work.

This does not stop some craftsmen: they believe that this glue is suitable for work and does not sag if the neighbors from above have a leak or a pipe breaks.

Liquid Nails

This material is sold in the form of a tube and a bottle for a construction gun. The highest quality goods are produced by the Moment trademark. This adhesive is characterized by excellent adhesion to the surface. It will take a few seconds to stick the tiles. However, it is precisely the fact that it sets instantly that can make it difficult to work: it can be problematic to correct a fragment glued to the surface, because the material has a particularly strong grip.

If a bottle for a gun is used in the work, you will have to work quickly so that at the time of hardening the tile is already on the ceiling. Another nuance is the color of the glue: it is a dirty beige. Such a minus calls into question the use of glue when processing the ceiling with thin fragments that do not involve painting. This glue is expensive, produced in a small volume, so facing the ceiling of a room can cost a lot. It will be difficult to remove it in case of dismantling.

"Quart"

Super white adhesive for ceiling tiles of this brand is available in different volumes in plastic cans. For work, it is optimal to choose a packaging with a volume of 3 kg. The color is similar to the white color of the tile, the consistency resembles sour cream. In work, the glue has proven itself from the best side. The tile applied to the ceiling lies in place, does not move out of it, does not lag behind the surface after it has been pressed down in the places of the applied glue. This glue is convenient in that it can be used to fill the joints, if suddenly there are voids. In terms of color and type of surface, it is similar to the main matte cladding, the processed seams will not be striking, while the surface of the finish will look monolithic.

Surface preparation

Before pasting, you must first prepare the base of the ceiling, otherwise the work risks being short-lived. This is especially true of places where the ceiling was whitewashed with lime. It must be removed from the walls, because the tile will not stick to the whitewashed surface. If for some reason dirt or greasy stains have got on the ceiling, they are cleaned off.

Not only whitewash is removed: it is necessary to cope with the plastered surface.

This also applies to wallpaper, if they pasted over the ceiling. To clean the horizontal plane from them, you can use a conventional spray gun for flowers and house plants. This will reduce the amount of dust when removing the old coating. The tile fits perfectly on a concrete base, although it is often impossible to reach it when cleaning. Do not ignore the preparation process before gluing: it is possible that the whitewash or old wallpaper will move away from the ceiling and the tile may sag against the background of others.

If the ceiling is uneven, has significant cracks, they should be covered with putty or gypsum-based rotband. Then it is necessary to prepare the surface for gluing with a deep penetration primer. This mark is indicated directly on the container, thanks to which the composition will ensure reliable adhesion of the ceiling panel to the ceiling surface. You can prime with a roller and a flat brush. At the same time, the roller is used in the main space, with a brush they pass through the corners and protrusions in order to eliminate the excess consumption of liquid (if you use a roller, in the corners, when pressed down, the primer will flow along the walls). You need to process the ceiling of the room with high quality, then you should wait a day until the composition is completely dry.

Installation subtleties

Mounting the ceiling with ceiling tiles is quite exciting and fast, so many people stick with their own hands. However, the work has its own nuances. She does not tolerate hack-work and haste: a loosely connected tile can fall out of the common canvas over time. It is worth considering the features of the material used: plastic tiles (PVC) do not allow pressure to achieve the density of the web, the porous material can be compressed somewhat if necessary for alignment.

Gluing provides different ways of fixing fragments. Each of them depends on the skills of the master. Calibration must be performed before sticking the material. This is especially important if you plan to start work from the center of the room obliquely. This factor is one of the most important when buying a material and taking into account its stock: out of 50 pieces, 8 will definitely not fit in size. This is due to the packaging itself: often the fragments on the sides have smoothed and obtuse corners.

When buying, it is impossible to wrap packages with tape, squeezing them: side seams suffer from this.

The batch of goods also matters: often the blanks differ by 3-4 mm, which complicates the sticker. Taking the highest quality square (rectangle) as a basis, others are equal to it: so pasting will be flawless. Before gluing a new fragment, attach it to the previous one. This will allow you to choose the perfect joint. After fitting, the element is glued to the surface. It is important to constantly check the direction of the pattern. This will avoid marriage.

It is not necessary to apply glue to the ceiling: it is enough that it will be on the tile itself. It is applied pointwise, as the material is quite light. You can apply glue in the corners, in the center, in the center of each face. In general, 5-9 dots with a small amount of glue are sufficient. To make the tile look monolithic against the general background, and the glue does not give it bumpiness, use a rubber roller for rolling wallpaper: this way you can avoid pushing through the blocks and even out the level of the cladding, especially at the crosshairs of the fragments (if there is no large relief).

If, during the work, a fragment with a dirty area is found in the package, which is not enough for gluing in the corner, it should be used as a pattern for especially difficult places (for example, where pipes or protrusions are located). So you can save on marriage and fit the shape of the missing fragment as accurately as possible. If special coloring is planned (for example, one relief element of the pattern), this is done before gluing. In case the entire surface is to be painted, it is better to do this after the finishing cloth has dried.

Sticking schemes

You can glue the tiles beautifully in different ways.

There are several options for gluing, for example:

• parallel to the walls (along the perimeter);
• diagonally (obliquely with alternation and intersection);
• in a checkerboard pattern.

To avoid distortion of the picture, make a center mark. To do this, find the middle of each wall near the ceiling, stick the thread on the adhesive tape and form a crosshair. If you plan to work with tiles diagonally, a crosshair is formed from the corners of the room. The central lamp serves as a reference point.

If it is not located in the center, make an adjustment.

It is necessary to start gluing from the center, where there is a place for a chandelier (it is removed before work). At the same time, markings are made for the location of the lamp in one square, cutting a small hole in its center. This square will be a guideline for the main process. Symmetry will depend on how it is pasted. If it is located parallel to the wall, the gluing of the same name is performed, if the corners of the fragment are turned to the centers of the walls, then a rhombus is pasted.

Sometimes the center consists of 4 squares: in this case, for perfect alignment, they are folded together and a circle is drawn with a compass. This will allow, if it is necessary to replace the fragment, not to remove the chandelier. If the work starts from the corner (parallel method No 2), it is important to consider that there will be cut off fragments along the edges, otherwise the drawing will be skewed. It is unacceptable that there be a whole square on one side of the wall, and only half of it on the opposite side.