Plant hippeastrum (lat. Hippeastrum) belongs to the Amaryllidaceae family. There are about 90 species of hippeastrum. The name of the flower consists of two roots of the ancient Greek language, meaning “horseman” and “star” in translation. Hippeastrum is often confused with amaryllis, but you should know that beautiful amaryllis (the only representative of the genus) grows naturally in southern Africa, and hippeastrum grows in the tropics and subtropics of America, in particular in the Amazon basin. Amaryllis and hippeastrum are relatives belonging to the same botanical family, but representing different genera. Hippeastrum was brought to Europe in the 16th century, and in 1799 the first plant hybrid, Johnson's hippeastrum, appeared.

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Planting and caring for hippeastrum (in brief)

• Bloom: August-September.
• Lighting: bright diffused light (southern, southwest or southeast windows).
• Temperature: 17-25˚C.
• Watering: at the beginning of the growing season - scanty, with the appearance of a peduncle before flowering - abundant, but not excessive. It is recommended to use the bottom watering method.
• Humidity: usual for residential premises.
• Feeding: from the beginning of the growing season - once every two weeks with liquid mineral fertilizers for deciduous plants, and from the moment the peduncle appears - in the same regime, but with solutions of mineral fertilizers for flowering plants.
• Rest period: from October to January.
• Transfer: once every 3-4 years after flowering or before the start of the growing season.
• Reproduction: seeds, children and dividing the bulb.
• Pests: scale insects, aphids, spider mites, mealybugs.
• Diseases: peronosporosis, burn fungus, red rot.

Read more about growing hippeastrum below.

Hippeastrum flower - features

Hippeastrum flowers are bulbous perennials. The round, sometimes conical bulb of the hippeastrum consists of a short thick stem and closed scales. The size of the bulbs, depending on the type, ranges from 5 cm to 10 cm in diameter. At the base (bottom) of the bulb there is a bunch of cord-like roots. The leaves of hippeastrum are linear, grooved on the surface, keeled below, 50-70 cm long, 4-5 cm wide, arranged in two opposite rows. Some varieties may have purple leaves, but they are mostly green. An umbrella-shaped inflorescence of 2-6 bisexual flowers 13-15 cm in length and up to 25 cm in diameter is formed on a cylindrical, hollow, leafless peduncle 35-80 cm high. The flowers, funnel-shaped or tubular, are located on long petioles; the color of the flowers is very different: dark red, bright red, orange, pink, white, etc. The fruit is a tricuspid capsule, spherical or angular, in which small hippeastrum seeds ripen. The germination rate of freshly harvested seeds is almost one hundred percent.

Homemade hippeastrum has several features, things to consider if you decide to grow it:

• varieties with light and white flowers produce few full-fledged seeds;
• in the summer, hippeastrum is best kept in the garden, buried in the ground;
• the timing of the flowering of hippeastrum can be adjusted by timing it to certain dates - this is very convenient, considering that a blooming hippeastrum is a wonderful gift that replaces an expensive, exquisite bouquet;
• Each hippeastrum flower blooms for only ten days;
• For forcing, you need to use only large bulbs, which have accumulated a large supply of nutrients.

In the photo: Hippeastrum flowering

Caring for hippeastrum at home

How to care for hippeastrum

The hippeastrum should be kept in a well-lit place, preferably on a south, south-east or south-west window sill, covering the flower from direct sunlight and turning it around its axis from time to time so that it maintains its compact shape. The temperature during the period of active growth is preferable from 17 ºC to 25 ºC. As already mentioned, in the summer the hippeastrum feels great in the fresh air, but you will have to arrange it outdoors in such a way that it does not suffer from waterlogging.

Water the hippeastrum at the beginning of the growing season, you need to do it very sparingly, gradually increasing watering only from the moment the peduncle appears - a signal that the plant has begun the growing season. As the flower shoot grows and before flowering begins, watering should become abundant, but nevertheless moderate, so that the soil in the flowerpot is moist and not wet.

It is best to water from the bottom or from a tray, gradually adding warm water until the earthen ball gets wet. Avoid getting water on the bulb.

After flowering, watering is also gradually reduced until it stops completely.

In the photo: Growing hippeastrum at home

When the hippeastrum peduncle reaches 12-15 cm in height, water the soil with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, and after 4-6 days feed the plant with phosphorus fertilizer. In general, hippeastrum is fertilized at the beginning of the growing season twice a month with liquid mineral fertilizer for deciduous plants, and after the leaves appear and for better formation of buds - with fertilizers for flowering plants in the same regime. Make sure that the concentration of minerals is not too strong, otherwise, instead of fertilizing the plant, you will burn its roots.

Do not forget to wash the leaves from dust in a warm shower or wipe them regularly with a damp sponge.

Hippeastrum transplantation

Hippeastrum is replanted once every three to four years before the dormant period or before leaving it. It is very important to choose the right pot for the flower: the distance from the bulb to the wall of the pot should not be more than 2 cm. The soil should be approximately the following composition: two parts perlite (or coarse sand), leaf and turf soil and one part humus. The soil must be sterilized before use. Don't forget about the drainage layer. Planting of hippeastrum is carried out by transshipment in order to cause as little damage as possible to the root system of the plant. The bulb is placed in the soil so that at least a third of it is above the surface.

Reproduction of hippeastrum

Hippeastrums reproduce by seed and vegetative methods. It is better to sow seeds immediately after collecting them, while they have one hundred percent germination. If you allow the seeds to dry out, then the ability to germinate becomes only thirty percent. Actually, sowing seeds is a simple, routine procedure, so there is no point in talking about it, especially since the seed method can only be used if there are seeds, and they can appear if you artificially pollinate the flower.

It is much easier to reproduce vegetatively, namely, by separating the hippeastrum babies from the mother bulb. This is done during transplantation. We separate the baby with a sterile sharp instrument, treat the cuts on it with crushed coal, plant it in a separate pot and do not deprive the young plant of foliage for two years, even during the dormant period.

In the photo: How hippeastrum blooms in an apartment

There is another way of vegetative propagation of hippeastrum - by dividing the bulb. It is carried out in November, when the bulb contains the maximum amount of nutrients. Remove the top layer of substrate so that only the lower part of the bulb remains in the soil. Remove outer dry scales. Cut off the leaves, taking some of the top of the bulb. Cut the onion vertically into four equal parts so that the cuts reach the surface of the substrate; vertically insert plastic or wooden knitting needles with a diameter of 5-6 cm into the cuts so that the parts of the onion do not overlap. Care for the bulb as you would an adult plant, avoiding allowing the substrate to dry out. As soon as the leaves appear, fertilize and continue fertilizing as usual. Next spring, divide the bulb and plant the parts in individual flowerpots.

The rest period of the hippeastrum

The resting period of hippeastrum is from September to January. If your plant spent the summer holidays in the yard, then by the beginning of autumn it’s time to bring it into the house. At the same time, they begin to gradually reduce watering, as a result of which the leaves of the plant dry out. After complete drying, the leaves fall off on their own, and the stem is cut off, the plant is transferred to a dry and dark room, the pot is placed on its side and stored at a temperature of 6-12 ºC without watering for 6 to 8 weeks until it is time for the hippeastrum to wake up.

Hippeastrum flowering

How to make hippeastrum bloom

• Firstly, Before planting, the bulbs can be treated with hot water at 43-45 ºC for three hours. After such extreme temperatures, the plant blooms in three weeks.
• Second way effects: stop watering the plant in August, move it to a dry, dark place and keep it there until the end of January, after which resume watering. In a month and a half you will be able to enjoy the flowering of hippeastrum.
• And the third way beliefs: cut off all the leaves of the hippeastrum in July and do not water it for a month, and with the first watering, introduce liquid complex fertilizer (to avoid burns, first moisten the soil thoroughly, then add fertilizer).

In August or September, your hippeastrum will bloom like a darling.

In the photo: Handsome white hippeastrum

Hippeastrum does not bloom - why?

Sometimes this happens due to a lack of nutrients, because the hippeastrum plant is a gluttonous plant, and there is very little soil in the pot, so it is quickly depleted. For this reason, fertilizing should be sufficient and regular, as should watering.

And it happens that a plant throws all its energy into fighting pests, such as spider mites, scale insects, and then it has no time for flowering.

Hippeastrum does not bloom even when the soil is waterlogged and the bulb begins to rot.

In the photo: How hippeastrum blooms

Hippeastrum after flowering

As soon as flowering is over, the plant needs to be prepared for rest, because the quality and timeliness of the next flowering directly depends on how correctly you prepare the hippeastrum for the rest period. From mid-September, watering stops completely, and after the leaves fall and the wilted peduncle is trimmed, the plant is placed in a dark, dry room with a low temperature, where the hippeastrum will remain until the end of January or the beginning of February. Then the pot with the bulb is placed in a well-lit place, watering and fertilizing are resumed, and the next period of active growth of the hippeastrum begins.

Indoor hippeastrum - difficulties in growing

The most common problems in growing hippeastrum are red rot, downy mildew and red burn fungus. And, of course, the above-mentioned pests - scale insects, aphids, scale insects and spider mites, which are destroyed with special insecticides. You can determine what the plant is sick with by how the hippeastrum looks.

If there are red spots on the leaves and the bulb, then it is a fungal burn, if the white coating is powdery mildew, and if the leaves hang limply, and rot is visible on the scales of the bulb, then this is rot. If there are signs of rot, all affected areas should be removed, diseased roots should be dried, the bulb should be dried, and immediately before planting in a new sterile substrate, the bulb should be treated with Fundazol.

Powdery mildew is treated with special commercially available preparations. And the red burn is eliminated by removing the bulb from the ground and cutting out all the lesions to healthy tissue. Then the wounds are sprinkled with a mixture of chalk and copper sulfate in a ratio of 20:1 and the bulb is dried for a week, after which it is planted in a fresh substrate, pre-treated with fungicides.

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Hippeastrum is a beautiful bulbous perennial plant that belongs to the Amaryllis family. Flower growers love it for its exotic appearance and chic large flowers, which, depending on the variety, differ in color, pattern and terry size of the petals. How to properly grow bulbous plants, what care is needed for hippeastrum at home, and what difficulties might a beginner encounter? Experienced florists are ready to give detailed answers to these questions.

What kind of flower is this, hippeastrum?

The flower was first discovered in the subtropics of Central America and only at the beginning of the 17th century was it successfully cultivated and began to be grown in gardens, greenhouses and on window sills. Currently, there are at least 80 plant species that amaze with their beauty and sophistication.

The hippeastrum bulb is small, only 6–10 cm in diameter, and has the shape of a cone. The leaves are large, at least 50 cm long, narrow (4–5 cm), fleshy and dense, rich green in color, with a groove in the middle. The peduncles are long, vertical, rise above the bush and end in inflorescences collected in a group of 4-5 flowers. Thanks to the many varieties, the petals range in color from white and soft pink to deep orange and bright red. The flower may not be uniformly colored, but may have streaks of darker or lighter colors. After flowering, a fruit is formed - a tricuspid capsule with small seeds.

Features of caring for hippeastrum at home

Hippeastrum prefers delicate care and will not tolerate careless treatment. As a true inhabitant of the tropics, lighting, humidity and air temperature are of great importance to it.

Lighting

The flower loves bright light; the daylight hours should be 12 hours. The ideal place for placement is windows on the south side, as well as on the southwest and southeast. To prevent the plants from wilting and getting sunburned, it is better to shade it at noon. To do this, you can prepare cardboard shutters in the form of panels for the windows. Hippeastrum tends to reach for the sun, so in order for it to develop stably, the pot should be periodically turned in different directions. If the plant has enough light, it can reach a height of more than a meter and bloom regularly.

Air temperature

For the heat-loving hippeastrum, care at home should be as close as possible to its natural habitat, and the air temperature should vary depending on the time of year. So, in summer the plant should be kept in the range from +18 °C to +25 °C, during the dormant period the temperature should be lowered to +10–12 °C, otherwise the bulb will not be able to rest and replenish the nutrients necessary for flowering.

Humidity

This indicator does not play a big role, but if the room has dry air or heating devices are running, then it is recommended to periodically spray the hippeastrum, once a day is enough. A refreshing shower or wiping the leaves with a damp sponge or piece of gauze has a beneficial effect on it. Such procedures should be carried out only from spring to autumn and at an air temperature of at least +20 °C, otherwise it can provoke various diseases. You can spray only the leaves and stems of the plant, avoiding droplets getting on the inflorescences. Water may cause stains on the petals, depriving them of their decorative properties.

Watering hippeastrum

This is one of the most important factors; home care for hippeastrum should provide it with regular, abundant watering during flowering. The water should not be cold; plants are extremely sensitive to its temperature. When watering, you should find a “golden mean”, despite the fact that the flower requires a lot of water at the beginning of the growing season, destructive waterlogging of the soil should not be allowed. The soil should be moderately moist, but not wet. It is better to water through a tray; the soil will absorb as much moisture as required. It is enough to carry out the procedure once a day; the frequency of watering depends on the level of soil moisture, but in the summer, most likely, the plant will require daily “quenching of thirst.”

Important! The plant should be watered carefully, without getting on top of the bulb; direct exposure to water can cause it to rot.

Soil composition for growing hippeastrum

The flower prefers fertile, loose, oxygen-rich substrates. Recommended soil composition:

• turf soil - 2 parts,
• fresh humus - 1 part,
• peat – 1 part,
• middle fraction sand – 1 part.

Be sure to prepare drainage: coarse expanded clay, broken shards or bricks. Its volume should be at least 1/5 of the pot. It is recommended to plant the bulb on sand, and not in a ready-made substrate. Such a “pillow” 1-2 cm thick will protect it from the development of rot and other infections.

Fertilizer application

An integral part of hippeastrum care is the comprehensive application of fertilizers during the flowering period. Feeding should begin in the spring, as the leaves grow; during this period, you can use complex mineral fertilizer for decorative deciduous plants. With the appearance of flower stalks and before the end of the flowering period, the fertilizer is changed to a universal mixture for flowering indoor plants or for amaryllis. Frequency of fertilizing: 2 times a month, alternating organic and mineral compositions.

Choosing a pot for hippeastrum

In order for the plant to grow well, develop and delight with flowers, the pot should be selected in a small size; its diameter should be only 3 cm larger than the bulb. If you choose a larger container, the flower will have many children, leaves, and it is possible that it will not bloom. To prevent the roots from being crowded, it is better to choose a fairly tall container.

How to plant hippeastrum correctly?

The plant does not tolerate transplantation well and to avoid stress it is better to use transshipment. If the flower was bought in a store, then you should lightly moisten the soil, place the container on its side and gently tap on it, as if “shaking out” the earthen lump. It is necessary to moisten the soil in order to reduce damage to the roots. After the earthen ball is removed from the old container, it is placed in a new pot. You need to carefully ensure that the bulb is only 2/3 immersed in the soil, and the upper part remains outside.

It is recommended to replant the first couple of years of hippeastrum annually in the spring before flowering begins. In adulthood, once every 2 years after flowering is enough. During transplantation, especially of adult plants, children can be found. In this case, they are carefully cut off with a sharp knife, sprinkling the cut areas with charcoal to prevent infection.

Advice! In the summer, it is recommended to plant hippeastrum in the garden or take it out onto the balcony. Natural temperature changes during the day and night have a positive effect on its health and flowering, and growing it in open ground will provide many children.

How to take care of hippeastrum after flowering and during the dormant period?

After the plant has flowered, you need to wait until the last inflorescences and peduncle dry. Only after this can the peduncle shoot be cut off, leaving a small stump of about 3 cm. During this time, the bulb will have time to pick up the remaining nutrients in it. When summer is still in full swing, there is a high probability that the hipeastrium will bloom again, but if autumn (October) has arrived, then it must be prepared for “hibernation.”

In winter, caring for hippeastrum is not difficult. Watering is gradually reduced, and the plant is moved to a cooler and darker place. At this point, its leaves and stems are dry and can be cut off. The pot with the bulb is stored lying on its side at a temperature from +10 °C to +12 °, watering and fertilizing are completely stopped, the soil should be dry. The awakening of the flower begins in late January - mid-February; for this, it is moved to a warmer place and gradually begins to be watered. With the appearance of new leaves, you can apply fertilizer.

Hippeastrum refuses to bloom

Sometimes, even the most competent care of hippeastrum at home cannot guarantee regular flowering. There are 3 methods, repeatedly tested in practice.

1. Before planting, the bulb should be kept in warm water for at least 3 hours; the temperature should be clearly at +43–45 °C. Next, the plant is planted according to the usual scheme; such a “bath” will ensure guaranteed flowering in 21 days.
2. For a too capricious flower, the onset of the dormant period is ensured a little earlier - in August, by stopping watering and placing it in a dark, cool place. But awakening, as usual, is at the end of January. Such rest guarantees flowering in the coming year.
3. In mid-July, the leaves must be cut off and watering of the plant should be stopped. After 30 days, you should water the flower with water, and then apply complex fertilizer. This “shock therapy” will allow you to enjoy the blooming hippeastrum already at the end of August or September.

Important! The plant refuses to bloom for a reason; it probably lacks micronutrients, but it is quite possible that the bulb has rotted or pests have appeared. Therefore, before stimulating flowering using the above methods, you should observe the flower, perhaps in this way it gives signals for help.

Diseases and pests of hippeastrum

A strong, healthy hippeastrum - home care should begin with a daily and thorough examination. This is the only way to notice a disease or pest in time and begin treatment.

• The plant suddenly stopped growing and there were no new leaves. Most likely, the bulb is damaged; it is recommended to remove it from the pot and inspect it for pests.
• Blackening of the inflorescences indicates that the hippeastrum is frozen or the soil is too wet. Damaged flowers need to be cut off and the pot moved to a warmer place, stopping watering the plant.
• Another sign that the flower is too damp is pale and limp leaves. You need to check that the holes in the bottom of the pot are not clogged and that the drainage is well ventilated. Watering should be stopped for a while and the soil should be allowed to dry thoroughly.

Most often, when caring for hippeastrum, you can notice such serious diseases as gray rot and red burn of the bulb (staganosporosis). Diseases are not so easy to identify and if treatment is not started in time, the plants are difficult to save.

• Gray rot is a fungal spore that affects the leaves and looks like a gray coating. It is better to remove severely damaged leaves immediately, and spray the remaining leaves with a 2% solution of laundry soap and a 2% solution of copper sulfate, mixed in equal parts. Most often, this disease is caused by high humidity.
• A red burn on an onion can be seen by characteristic bright spots or stains; these places should be carefully cut out, and the sections should be treated with brilliant green or foundation, and then sprinkled with charcoal powder. You should make sure that there are no more new lesions on the bulb, and only then plant it in fresh soil and a disinfected container. The disease is provoked by too high air temperature and humidity.

Pests can be easily detected by inspecting the plant. Thrips and aphids are small insects that are located over the entire surface of the leaf, and mites should be looked for on the reverse side along the characteristic silvery cobwebs. To combat them, you can use spraying with a solution of laundry or green soap, as well as more modern medications.

Carefully! Hippeastrum juice is very poisonous, so it is advisable to carry out all work with gloves and not leave it in the children's room. At the first signs of poisoning (vomiting, diarrhea), you should consult a doctor, as complications may occur that cause impaired renal function.

In general, caring for hippeastrum is not much different from caring for other bulbous plants. The worst thing for them is dampness; proper watering will save you from many problems and allow you to enjoy the beauty of the blooming “star” throughout the spring-summer period.

Hippeastrum care video

Many gardeners who have recently acquired a hippeastrum indoor plant? They often ask if he needs a period of rest. The hippeastrum should subside. This will allow you to regulate its flowering period and improve vegetative development.

The rest period of the hippeastrum - when it occurs and how it proceeds

When and how should hippeastrum be put to sleep and why does hippeastrum need a rest period:

• hippeastrum needs a rest period to regulate flowering and normal development- any experienced florist will say the same. You need to put to rest those bulbs that bloomed in the spring. Young bulbs (under three years of age) do not need to be sent to rest. In some cases, hippeastrum blooms once in the spring, and a second time closer to October-November. In this case, the hippeastrum bulb is put to rest if it does not send out new leaves after flowering. This can be checked by spreading the middle of the crown at the base of the leaves. If no new forcing is expected there and the hippeastrum does not bloom, then the plant can be prepared for sleep;

• The hippeastrum is prepared for the rest period as follows: it is NOT WATERED AT ALL. They start doing this in mid-September. By the end of September, the plant with its lush crown is moved to a dark and cool place where there is no sun rays at all or their amount is minimal. The room temperature should not rise above 13 degrees. In such conditions, the leaves of the hippeastrum begin to dry out and, as they become dead, they are removed. It is not recommended to cut off the still green leaves and thus forcibly send the hippeastrum into a dormant period. All nutrients from the leaves must go to the bulb. By cutting off the green leaves, you deprive the bulb of a significant supply of nutrients. As a result, the plant, even if it has planted a flowering arrow, will bloom sparingly and instead of 4-5 buds it will throw out only 1 or 2 pieces;
• the dormant period of the hippeastrum begins when it begins to shed its leaves. They lose color and begin to dry out. As a result, the plant loses its entire crown. Hippeastrum without foliage should be kept in a dark and cool place until January-February. At this time, the bulb cannot be watered, otherwise it will rot;
• the dormant period of the hippeastrum ends when it begins to throw out a flower-bearing arrow. If this does not happen, the plant begins to wake up on its own. It is taken out to a warm and well-lit place and carefully watered. In this case, you don’t need a lot of liquid, again, so that the onion doesn’t rot.

Hippeastrums in the garden in summer. In such cases, they are dug up in September and transferred from the soil in pots to a warm room. However, there is no need to stimulate the further development of the plant (growth of a green crown) at home. It is better to immediately move the pot with the plant to a dark and cool place and wait until the flower begins to shed its leaves. During the same period, it is possible to separate the adult bulb from possible children that formed in the summer.

Hippeastrum is a very beautiful bulbous perennial plant of the Amaryllidaceae family, which is very popular among gardeners for its high decorative qualities. Hippeastrum is native to South America. Monotonous, dull, dusty and flat steppes for many, many kilometers, which completely burn out in the summer under the merciless scorching sun, turning into a desert - the usual growing conditions for hippeastrum.

Hippeastrums have adapted to such a life. During the period of heavy spring rains, they quickly come to life, and the steppes are covered with a continuous carpet of blooming hippeastrums.

But there are especially many hippeastrums in Brazil. Brazilian hippeastrums, growing on desert plateaus and high-mountain meadows, have very beautiful flower colors: red on the outside and white on the inside. Also found in the wild is a species of hippeastrum with bright red, carmine flowers that shimmer like velvet in the sun.

In North America, there is a special type of Virginian hippeastrum, which grows in damp and shady forests. The flowers of this type of hippeastrum are of variable color: at the beginning of flowering they are purple, gradually the color becomes less intense and turns into pink, and then the flowers become white.

Quite often flower hippeastrum confused with amaryllis. However, experts will never confuse them: amaryllis has only one species - amaryllis belladonna, or beautiful (Amaryllis belladonna), the color of amaryllis flowers is mainly pink, amaryllis blooms in autumn and blooms in winter.

Among the hybrid hippeastrums, there are so many different shades and colors of flowers that it’s amazing, from snow-white to purple. Hippeastrum flowers are very large, can reach 20 cm in diameter, and there are up to six flowers on a peduncle. Hippeastrum blooms in spring or late winter. If you wish, you can force hippeastrum to bloom twice a year, which cannot be done with amaryllis. The leaves of the hippeastrum are belt-shaped, dark green in color, can grow along with the blooming of flowers, and sometimes appear after flowering.

Hippeastrum care

Dishes. Narrow and tall pots are better suited for growing hippeastrum, because in addition to the bulb, the hippeastrum also has roots that are quite long and during the dormant period they do not die off, but continue to feed the bulb.

You also need to observe the planting depth of the hippeastrum. The bulb should rise from the ground by one third. And don’t try to fill the pot too much with soil; it’s better to wait until it settles on its own and add soil to the desired height. Pots should not be too wide in size; it is enough if the distance between the wall of the pot and the bulb is only 2-3 cm. In too wide a container, hippeastrum may not bloom for a long time.

Earth mixture: turf soil, peat, sand, humus in a ratio of 2:1:1:1. The soil mixture for hippeastrums must be nutritious, water- and breathable with a neutral or alkaline pH reaction of the soil. Also do not forget about the drainage layer. Also, when transplanting hippeastrum, you can use ready-made purchased soil for bulbous plants.

Lighting. Hippeastrum is a light-loving plant, so it is advisable to keep it on southwestern, southern or southeastern windows. The light can be either direct sunlight or bright diffused light. Hippeastrum hybrids that lose leaves during the dormant period can be moved to a cooler and darker place with the hippeastrum bulb.

Air temperature. Hippeastrum grows well at room temperature. In summer, the usual room temperature is +20 +25 0 C. In winter, the air temperature may be slightly lower.

Watering. At the beginning of winter, in order for the hippeastrum to wake up and come out of the dormant period, it is placed on a bright window. During this period, the hippeastrum has no leaves, it is not watered, otherwise the bulb can easily be destroyed. Until the flower arrow appears, the hippeastrum does not need to be watered. After the peduncle appears and until the flower shoot grows to 7-10 cm, watering the hippeastrum should be weak, otherwise the leaves will begin to grow to the detriment of the flowers. It is better to water in a tray or along the edge of the pot, without getting water on the bulb. As the peduncle grows, watering increases.

After the hippeastrum blooms, the leaves and bulb begin to grow, new flower stalks are laid for the next year, during this period watering should be regular. By the end of summer, watering stops. At this time, the hippeastrum begins a period of rest. The pot with hippeastrum can be placed in a cool place and not watered. If the room temperature is high, you can water it occasionally a little at a time so that the bulb does not dry out. Hippeastrum does not need high air humidity, so it does not need air spraying; it prefers dry conditions.

Top dressing. The first fertilizing of the hippeastrum can be done when the height of the flower shoot is approximately 15 cm. If the hippeastrum has recently been transplanted and there are enough nutrients in the soil, fertilizing can be done later. When feeding, focus on phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. They promote flowering, accumulation of nutrients in the bulb, and the formation of future flower stalks. But it is better to exclude nitrogen fertilizers, they can provoke gray rot, and the plant can be irretrievably lost.

Transfer. 30-40 days after the end of flowering, the hippeastrum can be replanted. Annual replanting is not at all necessary, but in this case, change the top layer of soil every year, because hippeastrum quickly consumes nutrients from the soil, and this will later affect flowering. You can also replant hippeastrum before it comes out of dormancy, that is, at the end of December.

Rest period. Hippeastrum needs a period of rest in order to bloom annually. It usually lasts from late summer to late October. When preparing hippeastrum for the dormant period from the end of summer, you need to limit watering and fertilizing. In many hippeastrums, the leaves die off completely.

Hippeastrum, if desired, can be grown without a pronounced dormant period. Then it should be kept all year round on a bright, sunny window in a warm room, watered with warm water as the soil dries out, preferably in a tray. With this care, hippeastrum can bloom in the fall in October - November or in the spring in March - May. The dark green leaves of hippeastrum remain healthy throughout the year and do not lose their beauty.

Reproduction of hippeastrum. Hippeastrum is easily propagated by daughter bulbs that are completely identical to the mother plant. Children more than two centimeters are separated from the main bulb during transplantation. Young plants bloom in 2-3 years.

But what to do if some varietal hippeastrums do not produce children? In this case, hippeastrum can be propagated as follows: cut a healthy hippeastrum bulb into two to four parts with a clean and sharp knife so that each lobe has a part of the bottom. Carefully treat the onion sections with crushed coal and dry for two to three days. After the cut dries, each share can be added to a mixture of sand and peat or perlite. There is no need to bury such an onion; it should simply lie with its bottom on the surface of the earthen mixture.

But you can not completely cut the hippeastrum bulb to the end, but just make deep cuts so that the bulb is divided into two or four parts, but does not fall apart completely. The sections are treated in the same way with crushed coal and also dried for two to three days. After which the bulb is simply placed on an earthen mixture of sand and peat or perlite. Watering of such bulbs is carried out only through a tray. After some time, babies appear at the base of the cut onion.

Hippeastrum can be pollinated and propagated by seeds. In this case, sometimes a completely unpredictable result is obtained (so to speak, the breeder is his own breeder).

After pollination of the hippeastrum, a seed box is formed on the peduncle. In this case, there is no need to remove the peduncle; wait until the seeds ripen. But remember that such a procedure can greatly weaken the bulb, which will again affect flowering in the future: the flowers will be smaller, or the plant will not bloom at all. It is good to carry out experiments with hippeastrum seeds in open ground, where bees fly and the bulb will gain nutrients from the ground while the seeds are ripening.

Hippeastrum seeds are sown immediately after collection, otherwise they quickly lose their viability. Planting of seeds to a depth of one centimeter, seedlings appear in two to three weeks. Hippeastrum seedlings are light-loving, so place them in a bright place. To help small hippeastrums grow better, you can feed them with a weak solution of liquid mineral fertilizers. Young hippeastrums do not need a rest period.

Pests. The main pests of hippeastrum are spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, and onion mites. Pests visible to the naked eye can be removed manually with a sponge or cotton wool soaked in an alcohol solution, after which the plant is repeatedly treated with a solution of Actellik, Fitoverm or Karbofos.

When planting in open ground, do not plant hippeastrum next to other bulbous plants, such as lilies, otherwise hippeastrum may be damaged by onion mite. The bottom of the bulb begins to rot and gradually the entire bulb rots.

Diseases. One of the most dangerous diseases of hippeastrum is red bulb burn, or staganosporosis. At the first detection of red stains and dots on the hippeastrum bulb, without regret, cut out all foci of infection to healthy tissue. Trim off any affected leaves and dead roots. All sections and the bulb itself must be treated with phytosporin, foundationol, and Maxim.

Dry the treated hippeastrum bulb for a week and see if new foci of infection appear. If everything went well, then plant the hippeastrum bulb in a new pot and a new substrate. At first, minimal watering and only in a tray with solutions of phytosporin and foundation to ensure disinfection. In this case, planting the bulb should be as high as possible, this will allow you to control the condition of the bulb. If everything goes well, then the soil can then be filled to the desired height. The main thing is to preserve the onion.

In addition to the red burn, hippeastrum can be affected by anthracnose and fusarium. Treatment is almost the same as for a red burn: removal of damaged tissue, repeated treatments with phytosporin, foundationazole, Maxim.

Remember, diseases appear from an incorrectly selected soil mixture, excess nitrogen fertilizers, improper watering (too much, or water got into the middle of the bulb), from lack of light. If the keeping conditions are chosen correctly, then the hippeastrum will delight you with its flowering for a long time.

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The hippeastrum flower is a beautiful perennial bulbous flower with wide, linear, shiny leaves that attracts the eye with its large, bright flowers. Belongs to the amaryllis family. The genus includes 75 species with characteristic features - a bulb with a short neck and membranous scales. There are filaments of different lengths.

Hippeastrum flower varieties

Early flowering (January-February)

• Beautyful lady
• Dutch Bells

Medium flowering (until March)

• Belinda
• Emperor
• Joker

Late bloomers

• White Christmas

Hippeastrum care basics

Flower growers have recognized hippeastrum as an unpretentious flower, with a relatively low difficulty in growing.

• Hippeastrum prefers to live in southern, eastern or western rooms with weak winter heating.
• During the period of active flowering, it loves light. In winter, he is indifferent to lighting.
• The temperature should correspond to the period of life of the flower. During the dormant period, it is best to move it to a cool place. The ideal temperature is 7-9 degrees. However, for flowering to begin, it is enough to lower the temperature to 15 degrees.
• For planting and replanting, any universal mixtures are used.
• The flower prefers moderate watering. During the rest period, they should be reduced to economical - once a week. Watering is carried out exclusively in the pan. After the plant is saturated with liquid, the excess should be poured out of the pan.
• Sometimes it is necessary to spray, although the plant feels comfortable without them.
• During the active growing season, the flower needs regular feeding with solutions of organic fertilizers.
• A rest period of 6 weeks must be strictly observed. At this time, the flower is moved to a darker place, fertilizing is stopped completely and watering is reduced.
• Hippeastrum is replanted at least once every 2 years.
• Propagated by seeds, but most often by children.

Video: Home care for the hippeastrum flower

What to do if hippeastrum does not bloom

The most common cause of frustration for flower growers is the lack of flowering in a green pet. One of the most important factors influencing this is non-compliance with the rest period. However, this is not all. In order for the hippeastrum to delight you all winter with its luxurious flower, you must adhere to the following rules:

1. The plant should grow in a narrow but deep pot. During annual transplantation, it changes, focusing on the bulb. There should be no more than 2 cm between the bulb and the wall of the pot.
2. The planted bulb should be halfway out of the ground.
3. When the flowering period has passed, leave the flower stalk alone. Don't touch it or cut it.
4. A plant that has not given full roots should not be fed.
5. The flower is also not fed until it blooms.

Video: Hippeastrum flower, bloom

Sometimes flower growers resort to more stringent measures and add hippeastrum to their front garden in the summer. During this time, the flower will grow a strong rosette. The main thing is to have time to dig up the entire plant before the first frost and dry it well. The leaves will dry out, and all the nutrients will remain in the bulb. It is very important to wait for natural drying. After this, return the bulb to the pot and put it in a dark place.

If you follow all the rules, you can enjoy the beauty of hippeastrum up to twice a year.