Foreword

A bathhouse on the site is the greatest pride of any owner, especially if it was built with your own hands. In order for this building to bring joy and last for a long time, you need to take care of how to build the roof of the bath correctly. Warming is important for a steam room. We will tell you how to make the ceiling in the bath without unnecessary mistakes.

The roof of the bath - what everyone should know

Depending on the type of structures, the roof may differ in its design and shape. The main feature of the bath roof is its light weight. Therefore, such a roof has a simple design.

Before you make the roof of the bath, you need to think about the type of building itself. Such a structure can be located on the land plot separately or be attached to the house. You also need to think about the type of roof, which can be either single-pitched or gable.

It is important to choose the slope of the roof. The angle of inclination of the slope depends on the weather conditions. The roof must withstand wind and snow. Therefore, the smaller the angle of inclination, the less heavy precipitation the roof can withstand.

Features of a pitched roof

This type of bath roof is the easiest to build, less labor-intensive and cheap in cost. A similar design lies in the fact that the beams are laid horizontally on opposite walls of the bath. The angle of inclination of the slope is provided due to the different heights of the walls of the structure.

A roof with one slope can be made with an attic or an attic room can be built there. From the point of view of thermophysical indicators, such baths have the best thermal insulation properties. Such rooms can be used to store bath equipment, stack firewood for a fireplace and stove there. It is possible to make a lounge there.

To save money, attic space is not made. In this case, the bath roof can be combined with the ceiling. With this option, building materials will require significantly less than for the construction of an attic or attic.

Bath roof construction - construction stages

Step 2: Mounting the support beams

Along the upper perimeter of the walls, it is necessary to lay boards that will support the entire truss system. During this process, it is imperative to monitor the evenness of the beams. Such control can be done using the usual level. At this stage, support posts will be required if the boards protrude more than 50 cm beyond the wall.

Step 3: Installing the truss system

At this stage, it is necessary to install the rafters on the supports in increments of 1–1.5 m. You can fix them with metal brackets.

Step 4: Building the crate

The crate is necessary so that the roofing materials have something to attach to. Depending on the roof covering, the crate can be either solid or with gaps. The first option is used for ondulin or roofing material. In this case, boards of 20 mm thickness will be required. Be sure to take into account that the joints of each row should be in different places. To achieve this, it is better to use different lengths of boards. In the case of using metal tiles or slate, a continuous cover of the crate is not required. To do this, you can fix the boards with a gap of 20-30 cm.

Step 5: Roof waterproofing

In order to avoid excess moisture and leakage during rain or snow melt, it is imperative to make a hydro-vapor barrier of the roof. To do this, the vapor barrier film is fixed with a stapler to the crate. A waterproofing material is laid on top of this film. Flooring, as a rule, is done along the roof, starting from the eaves. Waterproofing should be laid with an overlap of 5 cm on top of each other. You can also fasten this material with a construction stapler.

Step 6: Covering the roof with roofing material

The metal tile flooring starts from the lower corner of the bath roof. Sheets must be laid on top of each other with an overlap of 10–20 cm. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets in the area of ​​​​the cap. This will prevent leakage when it rains. When the last sheets of the top row are fixed, you can proceed with the installation of the ridge. As a rule, galvanized metal is used for this procedure.

Step 7: Sheathing the end of the roof

For sewing the roof, you can use lining or ordinary boards that need to be fixed without gaps. Siding can also be used as end cladding. This material is easy to use, inexpensive and looks nice.


The ceiling in the bath - important properties

Structural elements of the ceiling should not contribute to the wetting of the insulation. Otherwise, the heat-insulating material may lose its heat-saving properties. As a result, the bath will quickly cool down, which is unacceptable for such buildings.

A significant role is played by the height of the ceiling of the bath. The ceiling should not be too high or too low. To calculate the optimal ceiling height, take into account the maximum height of people who will take bath procedures. The next criterion for calculating the height is the size and number of shelves.

Be sure to take into account the possibility of a comfortable swing with a broom. If a log bath is being built, then 10–20 cm must be added to the height of the ceilings for future shrinkage. As a rule, for people with a height of up to 190 cm, a ceiling with a height of 2.5 m is sufficient. and

Types of bath ceilings and their insulation

There are several common types of ceiling coverings. The first type can be attributed to the false ceiling. Its design consists of boards (cut or tongue-and-groove), which are attached to the ceiling beams. It is also required to lay a vapor barrier on top of the beams, spread waterproofing. On top of these layers, heat-insulating material is laid, which also needs to be covered with a layer of vapor and waterproofing. Foam plastic, mineral wool is used as a heater, or bulk material (expanded clay) is used.

The positive properties of this type of ceiling include simplicity in the device. A high level of thermal insulation, no doubt, is also a positive criterion for choosing which design. Due to the large number of different layers, such a ceiling is very reliable and can last for a long time. As for the negative factors, this includes the cost of erecting such a structure. The price is affected by the use of a thick beam for the ceiling beam.

The next type of ceiling is floor. Differs in simplicity of a design, it is constructed by means of a continuous flooring of the cut-off boards. Thermal insulation with a vapor barrier film is laid on top of them.

Basalt wool is most often used for insulation. Bulk materials can also be used as heat and vapor barrier. They fill all the cracks and cavities well, this results in a continuous layer of insulation. For bulk materials, it is necessary to make sides along the perimeter of the attic. When using this type of thermal insulation, it is impossible to use the attic, since bulk materials cannot withstand high loads.

Among the main disadvantages of this design is the impossibility of creating a ceiling with a height of more than 2.5 m.

This is due to the fact that the ceiling beam is not used. The negative factors of this type can also be attributed to the susceptibility of the insulation to moisture. The insulation material will get wet quite often and will need to be replaced frequently.

The third type is the panel ceiling. This design consists of panels that are assembled separately. The main element is load-bearing beams. The box itself is assembled from boards. A pie made of hydro, steam and thermal insulation is laid inside such a trough. Boards must be laid on top of these materials. For this purpose, cut bars of any length can be used.

In this part of the DIY Bath cycle, we will talk about how to build a bath roof with your own hands. We will consider the types of roofs for the bath. Let's describe the general structure of the bath roof and its individual elements: bath roof rafters, lathing, steam and waterproofing, roofing.

Types of roofs for a bath

Single and double pitched roofs

The roof of the bath can be made both single-pitched (flat) and gable (with an attic). Basically, the construction of the bath roof involves the construction of a gable roof with an attic room, which is used for drying and storing bath brooms. You can also use the attic of the bath for storing household equipment, and if the bath area exceeds 20 sq.m. then in the attic of such a bath can be adapted for drying clothes. You can familiarize yourself with the pitched roof structures by clicking on the link.

Components of the roof

Bath roof rafters


Rafters (rafter trusses)

The truss structure can be assembled directly on the log cabin of the bath, it is also possible to assemble roof trusses on the ground and then install them on the log cabin of the bath. Both options are used in the construction of baths.

Bath roof lining


Roof base (sheathing)

The lathing along the roofing can be carried out both with a solid shield and with gaps between the boards (bars) of the lathing. It depends on what roofing material will be used to cover the roof - for rolled materials (roofing material), it is desirable to make the crate a solid shield with a minimum allowable gap between the boards of not more than 1 cm, for sheet roofing materials (asbestos-cement wave slate or bituminous wave sheet) - the distance between the boards is allowed 15-25 cm.

Note: if metal tiles, flat asbestos-cement slate will be used as a roofing, then the crate must be made, the same as for rolled materials - solid, but if roofing iron is used as the roofing material, then the crate can be made with the distance between the boards, as well as for asbestos-cement or bituminous slate.

Do-it-yourself steam and waterproofing of the roof for a bath



Steam and waterproofing

For waterproofing the roof, you can use various materials - glassine, roofing material, waterproofing films. Also, such a substrate for roofing material (slate, ondulin, etc.) serves not only as waterproofing, but also as insurance against moisture penetration into the attic, if the roofing leaks.

Roofing


Roofing

To cover the roof of the bath, you can use various roofing materials, both rolled, such as roofing material, and sheet - asbestos-cement or bituminous slate, as well as metal tiles or roofing steel.

Bath roof construction

Installation of ceiling beams

As it was written in the second part, which describes the construction of the log house, the top two crowns on the log house were left unsecured.


Installation of ceiling beams: cutting device

To start the roof installation, it is necessary to disassemble both crowns, check the bars for straightness of the ends and make cuts for installing ceiling beams from a bar with a section of 100x80 mm.

In the upper crown, you can not make a cut, but then when replacing the ceiling beams, you will have to dismantle the upper crown of the log house or cut the beams flush with the walls of the bath, and if you do it as shown in the figure, then replacing the ceiling beams can be done without any difficulty.


Installation of ceiling beams: mounting method

This method of end cut - “deaf cut”, closes the ends of the ceiling beams from the side of the street and does not require insulation (caulking) of the gaps between the log house and the ceiling beam.


Installation of ceiling beams: laying scheme (top view)

When the ceiling beams are installed, you can proceed directly to the construction of the roof of the bath.

Roof truss device

Roof trusses can be assembled directly on the log house itself, or they can be assembled on the ground, and then installed on the log house. Consider the option of assembling roof trusses on the ground, this method will allow you to quickly assemble roof trusses, besides, their assembly on the ground is much more convenient.


Components of a roof truss


The dimensions of the structural parts of the truss truss

At the beginning, it is necessary to cut the material from which the roof trusses will be assembled to the given dimensions:

A - rafter leg: length 280 cm (edged board 40 (50) x 100 mm);

B - the base of the truss truss: 440 cm (edged board 40 (50) x100 mm);

B - crossbar (edged board 40 (50) x100 mm).

The boards from which the rafters will be made must be cut not at a right angle, but at a bevel, so that the truss truss after assembly has an angle of inclination of the rafters of approximately 40 ° (the angle of inclination is shown in the figure).


The method of fastening the rafters and the base of the truss truss

At the top, the rafters are fastened end-to-end with each other - with the help of capercaillie screws, the lower part of the rafters is attached to the base, also end-to-end using the same screws.

Table 1. C water table of the cost of the capercaillie screw


Screw "capercaillie"

Ø a=8 mm (may not be constant +/- 0.5 mm), Ø b=10 mm.

In order to make it easier to screw the capercaillie screw into the rafters and so that the rafters do not crack at the attachment points, it is necessary to drill an unloading hole with a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter a(see picture).

At a distance from the upper point of connection of the rafter legs, this is about 50 cm, the rafters are interconnected by a bar - a crossbar, this will stiffen the truss truss and prevent the rafters from bending under the weight of the roof, as well as snow in winter.


Bolt fastening

To fix the crossbar in the rafters, you need to make cuts in half the thickness of the rafter leg, the same size cuts must be made at the ends of the crossbar, then install the crossbar in place and fix it to the rafters with capercaillie screws.

Pediment sheathing


Pediment sheathing

The extreme truss trusses can be sheathed immediately on the ground, after they are assembled. To do this, it is necessary to make a crate of bars (the bars are located horizontally), on which the pediment sheathing boards will be attached. The crate can be arranged from bars with a section of 40x40 mm (50x50 mm).

The pediment sheathing boards must be cut to size so that after they are nailed, there will be a release of at least 25 mm beyond the base of the truss truss. This is necessary in order to:

  • the runoff of rainwater that fell on the pediment sheathing was not directed to the sheathing of the walls of the bath;


An example of sheathing the eaves and gable of the roof with a vertical arrangement of boards

    when sheathing the eaves, the ends of the boards will be hidden behind the sheathing of the pediment, as shown in the figure (fragment (A) highlighted in red).


Gable trim 2

The pediment sheathing can also be done with a horizontal sheathing. To do this, the battens for fastening the cladding boards must be installed in a vertical position, with a 25 mm extension beyond the edge of the base of the truss truss (as described in the previous description).

How to make sheathing from wooden grooved boards can be found in the article.

Attic door installation


Attic door frame

In one of the extreme truss trusses, it is necessary to make an entrance to the attic (it is best to make an entrance to the truss truss, which will be installed at the back of the bath).

To do this, it is necessary to put together a door frame that is simple in execution from bars with a section of 50x50 mm:

fasten the lower and upper crossbars with the side posts of the box with an end connection and fix with self-tapping screws or nails (the length of the fastening material is at least 90 mm);


Door frame with restrictive bar

  • around the entire perimeter of the box, it is necessary to attach a restrictive bar 25 mm wide;
  • the side posts should rest against the rafter leg, so using the end connection, you can attach the door frame at the top to the rafters, and attach the lower part to the base of the truss truss using self-tapping screws (as shown in the figure);


Door

The door can be made from 25 mm thick tongue-and-groove boards (as shown in the picture). The boards are attached to the transverse bars with self-tapping screws from the back, a jib must be installed between the bars. Installing a jib will give the doors rigidity and prevent the door from skewing. To install doors at the entrance to the attic, you can use overhead door (garage) hinges. Fastening the hinges to the doors must be done before installing the doors, attaching them to the doors with bolts or self-tapping screws.

Installation of roof trusses, lathing and roofing

Installation of roof trusses begins in the following order:

  • at the beginning, extreme truss trusses are installed;
  • then a truss truss is installed in the center.

Step 1


Installation of end trussesInstallation of end trusses

The roof device must begin with the installation of extreme roof trusses:

  • the roof truss is installed on the upper crown of the log cabin of the bath;
  • first, two or three holes must be drilled in the base of the truss truss, through which the truss truss will be attached to the upper crown of the log house.

A plumb line is attached to the crossbar (approximately in the center) (you can use twine with a load tied at the end, for example, a nut), the straightness of the installation of the truss truss is controlled by the plumb line:

A - the truss truss is installed correctly, without deviations to the side;

B and C - the truss truss is installed skewed and its alignment is required.

  • when the truss truss is installed evenly, its base can be fixed with screws - “grouse”;
  • for the stability of the truss truss, it is necessary to install along the edges of the jib (the length of the jib is not of fundamental importance, however, the jib must be attached to the rafter leg approximately at the level of the crossbar);
  • before the jib is fixed to the upper crown of the log house, it is necessary to check once again the straightness of the installation on a plumb line and, if necessary, align the roof truss.

Step 2


Installation of the central roof truss

When the outer trusses are installed, you can install the central and subsequent trusses with a distance of 100-110 cm from each other. Fix the trusses with temporary braces, and after the visor is made, the braces can be dismantled.

Rafter trusses must be attached to the upper crown of the log house with screws - “capercaillie”, as well as extreme truss trusses.

Step 3

Now that the truss trusses are installed, you can proceed to the device of the crate.

Roof sheathing can be done:

  • from bars with a section of 50x50 mm;
  • from edged boards 25 mm thick and 100 (150) mm wide;
  • the crate can also be made from unedged boards.


Sheathing from unedged boards

Note: if the crate is made of unedged boards, then in this case it is necessary to use an edged board for the ridge and cornice, as shown in the figure, this is necessary so that the line of the ridge and cornice is even.


Lathing from edged boards for rolled roofing materials

If roofing material is used as a roofing material, then the boards of the crate should fit as tightly as possible with the ends to each other (the allowable gap is not more than 1 cm). The removal of the boards of the crate beyond the truss trusses located along the edges of the bath is 15 (20) cm - this is necessary for the installation of a gable cornice, which will partially protect the gable from precipitation. The roofing material is laid in two layer.

Note: with a larger gap between the boards, over time, the roofing material will sink into the gaps between the boards and may tear, the roof will begin to leak.

Ruberoid can, of course, be used as a roof covering, but over time, from exposure to UV light, the roofing material loses its elasticity, it becomes coarser, and the surface begins to crack. It will take 5-7 years and the roof will have to be covered again.


Lathing from edged boards for sheet roofing materials

For sheet roofing materials, such as asbestos-cement, bituminous wave slate, metal tiles, the distance between the boards of the batten can be made more than under the roofing material, about 40-50 cm.


Photo of the lathing of the roof of the bath vapor barrier

But before proceeding with the installation of the crate, you need to take care of the vapor barrier of the roof.


Vapor barrier installation scheme

First, you need to lay a vapor barrier film (A) on the trusses and attach it to the rafters with a construction stapler (you can use small nails with a wide hat). After the film is stretched, you can make the roof crate (B). The crate begins to be made from the ridge of the roof, going down. The crate is best made from solid boards, without joining them along the length of the roof. This will give additional stability to the roof structure.

Note: in this case, boards 440 cm long will be required (400 cm roof length and plus 20 cm outlet on each side for the device of the gable cornice).


The scheme of laying waterproofing and roofing in the roof of the bath with your own hands

You can lay the material along or across the roof:

  • if the material is laid along the roof (A), then the flooring must be started from the eaves of the roof slope with an overlap of strips of at least 5 cm, the material can be fixed using a construction stapler;
  • if the material is laid across the roof (B), then from which side to start laying the material does not matter, but the overlap of the strips in this case should be at least 10 cm, fixing the material, as in the first case, is carried out using a construction stapler.

Step 4

The next step after the installation of the crate is the flooring of the roofing material - asbestos-cement, bituminous wave slate or metal tiles. As mentioned in the first part, bituminous wave slate was chosen as the roofing material for the roof of the bath.


Photo of asbestos-cement bituminous coating

The laying of sheets of such slate should be started from the back of the roof so that the joint of the sheets is not visible from the side of the entrance to the bath.


The scheme of laying sheets of ondulin

It is necessary to lay the first row of three sheets, the bottom of the sheets should be in line with the eaves. Before proceeding with laying the second row, it is necessary to cut the sheets of roofing material in half, since the width of one roof slope is 280 cm vertically, and one sheet is 200 cm long, then the second row will require a sheet 100 cm long, which will provide an end overlap of sheets of 20 cm .

Note: such roofing material can be cut with a hacksaw, a jigsaw, a hand-held circular saw - but at the same time, there should be a tooth with a small pitch on the cutting part of the saw, if the tooth is with a large pitch, then when cutting the sheet, the edge may turn out with tears.


Photo mount ondulin

Sheets of such slate must be nailed to the crate along each wave at the end and end overlap of the sheets on each other, it is also necessary to nail on both sides of the side overlap. Fastening is carried out through one wave, in this case, 20 pcs of nails are needed to fasten one sheet.


Roof ridge installation

The joints of the slate sheets on the roof ridge can be closed using a corner made of roofing steel. The corner is attached to the roof using self-tapping screws with a wide head (preferably stainless steel or zinc-coated self-tapping screws).

And so the roof is ready, the log house is protected from precipitation, and you can proceed to the installation of the floor and ceiling of the bath.

Attention: Prices are valid for 2009.

A bath is a complex engineering structure, the construction of which is feasible with your own hands, but it will require engineering knowledge and time. The roof requires special attention and calculation, since the greatest heat loss occurs through the coating - from 30 to 45%. The construction of a roof requires a balanced approach and an accurate idea of ​​the type, construction of the roof and the material of its coating even before construction begins.

Stages of building a roof over a bath

Work on the installation of the roof on the bath, taking into account all the standards and rules, is carried out in several stages:

  1. The choice of roofing option, coating material and supporting structure.
  2. Collection of loads, execution of drawings and calculations of the supporting structure, preparation of estimates and a list of necessary materials.
  3. Purchase of material, preparation of the construction site and necessary tools.
  4. Building.

Choosing a roof option

The choice of roof structure is influenced by the coating material, the purpose of the attic space - whether it will be heated with a residential attic or cold, as well as the level of wind and snow load in the region where the construction is being carried out.

Types of pitched roofs used in individual construction:

  1. Shed. Sloped roofs with a single slope are often used to cover small structures such as bathhouses when needed to be built quickly and inexpensively.

    Shed roof has the simplest design and is built very quickly

  2. Gable. If you need a larger roof slope and want to have a full-fledged attic, they construct a more complex gable roof.

    The gable roof is more difficult to install, but it allows you to get a full-fledged attic for storing bath accessories

  3. Hip and semi-hip. Such roofs have 4 slopes - instead of gables on the ends of the house, they also cover with a slope. Roofs of this type are built in climatic regions with a large wind load. The roof, in which the end slopes - hips - descend half the length of the main roofing, are called semi-hip.

    The hip roof resists strong winds well due to the installation of additional slopes instead of end gables

  4. Tent. This is a special case of a hip roof, which is built over houses that are square in plan, as well as over bases that fit into a circle.

    The hipped roof is arranged in the same way as the hip roof, but does not have a ridge, since all the hips converge at one point

  5. Multipliers and combined. Multi-gable roofs are used to shelter L-shaped or U-shaped buildings that are complex in terms of structures, and at the same time different types of roof shapes can be used in coatings.

    Multi-gable roofs consist of several roof structures combined into one

  6. Attic. This is a very popular type of roof for residential buildings. They come in a variety of shapes, but what unites them is the presence of a warm living space in the attic space. There are such roofs in the baths.

    The device of the mansard roof allows you to get a full-fledged living space on the second floor

The easiest option for construction is a pitched roof. It is often used when the bathhouse is attached to the main house, and with small coating slopes. When building a free-standing bath, the gable roof shape is most in demand.

Roof design

Factors affecting the design of the roof:

  • snow load on the roof, which is determined based on the geographical location of the construction area;
  • normalized resistance to heat transfer, also depending on the climatic region. This parameter affects the choice of insulation thickness;
  • structure weight. It depends on the material of the roof;
  • choice between attic and attic. Insulation of the roof above the attic affects its design and gives an additional load on the rafters;
  • type of bath - an attached room or a separate building: the extension can be covered with a shed structure, while it is more economical to complete a separate building with a gable roof;
  • roof slope. His choice is influenced by the material of the roof, as well as the intended purpose of the under-roof space and the personal preferences of the owners.

Collection of loads on load-bearing elements of the roof

Snow and climatic regions are determined individually according to the maps attached to SP 50.13330.2010 "Thermal protection of buildings" SNiP 23-02-2003, updated edition. These maps are used to determine the specific snow load on the roof in winter. The load from the weight of the coating varies from 6 kg / m 2 (Ondulin) to 55 kg / m 2 (ceramic and cement-sand tiles).

Having planned a warm attic above the bath, the weight of the insulation, the vapor barrier layer and the interior cladding of the room is added to the weight of the roof - from 30 to 55 kg / m 2, depending on the type of insulation and facing material. If the attic above the bath is not heated, then only the weight of the roofing membrane is added, which can be neglected.

The weight of coniferous wood (pine, spruce, larch), from which roof structures are most often made, is determined as the product of density and volume. The density of wood is 600 kg/m 3 .

Table: specific snow load depending on the region

region number1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
80 120 180 230 320 400 480 560

The region number is determined by the snow load distribution map issued by Roshydromet.

Each region of our country is assigned a number depending on the average snow load intensity.

The height of the passage under the roof slope is normalized and should be at least 1.6 m to be able to perform periodic inspection of the technical condition of the structures.

When choosing a roof slope of up to 20 o, the coating can be made of metal profiled sheets, including metal tiles, with a slope of 20 to 40 o, any roofing material can be used, except for rolled roofing bitumen-polymer materials.

Table: roof slope depending on the coating material

Structural calculation of rafters

The calculation of roof structures is carried out in accordance with SP 64.13330.2011 "Wooden structures", but tables with averaged data can be used. This method is much simpler, although the result will be slightly higher than the design minimum, since the tables are designed taking into account the maximum loads from snow and the weight of the roof. To determine the section of the rafter, it is enough to know the span of the building and set the distance between the rafters.

Table: the length and size of the section of the rafters, depending on the distance between them

Rafter length, mDistance between rafters, cmRafter section size, cm
until 3120 8 x 10
until 3180 9 x 10
up to 4100 8 x 16
up to 4140 8 x 18
up to 4180 9 x 18
until 6100 8 x 20
until 6140 10 x 20

When purchasing material, remember that the length of the rafters in this case is the size from support to support, that is, in fact, the rafters will be longer for the overhang of the roof eaves and trimming in the tong.

Lathing design

The design of the crate depends on the coating material:

  • covering of metal tiles on the eaves and ridge of the roof requires a continuous flooring to a width of 450 mm, the step of the intermediate lathing corresponds to the transverse profile of the corrugations and is assigned by the manufacturer of the material;
  • Roofing from bituminous tiles (for example, "Shingles"), tiles, small roof slopes from corrugated sheets (Euroslate Ondulin) require continuous flooring from boards or moisture-resistant board materials (OSB, DSP).

The Roof Rules (SNiP II-26-76) standardizes the minimum size of the lathing elements at 30x50 mm.

Execution of a set of drawings

Roof drawing set includes:

  • roof plan;
  • wiring diagrams of load-bearing elements;
  • detailed drawings of each structural element;
  • attachment points;
  • roof section with a flag, which displays the layered composition of the roof;
  • material requirements list;
  • general data on drawings with instructions for installation and requirements for materials.

The most commonly used sections of the timber truss system

When calculating the distance between the rafters, it is necessary to take into account the presence of vertical structures, for example, a chimney.

It is impossible to complete drawings without an engineering education, so individual builders draw elements by hand or print out detailing of nodes from technical literature and specialized Internet sites. However, the best solution is to order a roofing project from companies specializing in this type of work. In this way, all the requirements of current regulations will be met, which guarantees the durability of the roof structure.

Video: gable roof design

Photo gallery: gable roof drawings

On the wiring diagram of the rafters indicate all dimensions in horizontal projection The sections show the required dimensions, elevations, marked elements of the system and nodes On the drawings of the nodes, the designs for connecting elements are worked out
The required dimensions, the layered composition of the roof are given on the node, individual elements are marked According to the drawings, element-by-element statements are made indicating the quantity / volume / weight

Installation of a roofing system for a bath

We will analyze the sequence of the roof device for the bath using the example of a gable roof structure.

Required Tools

To build a roof, you will need a set of measuring, cutting and carpentry tools:

  • roulettes of different lengths from 5 to 20 meters;
  • marker, pencil;
  • cord along the length of the skate;
  • hammer nail puller;
  • metal scissors;
  • roofing knife;
  • putty knife;
  • Scotch;
  • a hacksaw, an electric saw, an electric drill and a screwdriver, various drills and nozzles for them;
  • horizontal and vertical level;
  • rail, ruler;
  • mounting foam and silicone sealant.

Tools must be kept in the tool bag while working on the roof.

For the safety of work, it is necessary:

  • safety belt, rope;
  • protective glasses;
  • mittens;
  • overalls set.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a gable roof

Roofing begins when the attic floor beams are mounted. Before starting work on the beams, running decks are made of boards or chipboard, DSP, OSB boards that can withstand the load from a person and the structure being mounted. All wooden roof structures are impregnated with a flame retardant, antiseptic and fungicide or a complex protection against fire, decay and fungus.

All elements of the coating are prepared for installation on the ground according to the template. Finished roof trusses are lifted to the installation site and temporarily fixed with boards.

Assembly work is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Installation of the support beam - Mauerlat. Mauerlat, which ensures the stability of the roof and transfers the load from the roof to the walls of the house, is preferably made of dense hardwood that is resistant to decay (oak, maple, larch). The minimum size of a beam is 100x100 mm, most often a beam with a size of 100x150 mm is used, placing it at least 5 cm from the outer edge of the wall. The beam is fixed to the wall through a gasket made of waterproofing material on the studs laid during the construction of the wall. The holes for the studs are evenly spaced along the length of the beam, not combining with the attachment points of the rafters. The holes for the studs are marked and drilled before the beam is raised to the design position.

    Mauerlat is attached to the wall with evenly spaced studs, previously embedded in the frame

  2. Assembling the truss system. The assembly of a structure consisting of a pair of rafter legs and a puff is easier to perform on the ground according to a template. In this case, all roof trusses will have identical dimensions. True, the weight of the structure can be significant, and a crane is required to lift it.

    Rafter trusses are easier to assemble on the ground and then lift to the roof

  3. Installation of roof trusses. First, structures are installed at the ends of the house, temporarily fixing them with mounting boards, racks and struts. For ease of installation of subsequent elements in the ridge, a cord can be pulled between the installed trusses. Then intermediate trusses are mounted. After all the elements of the truss system are installed, they are finally fixed at all points and temporary supports are removed.

    To simplify the installation of intermediate trusses between the extreme rafters, you can pull the cord

  4. Installation of a superdiffusion membrane using a counter-lattice, installation of the main batten. With the help of a counter-lattice, we attach a superdiffusion membrane to the rafters. Depending on the selected coating material, we mount the crate - sparse or slab flooring.

    When installing a roofing pie, it is imperative to observe a ventilated gap between the membrane and the roofing

  5. Cover installation. The laying of the coating material is carried out from the bottom up from the left corner. The work is carried out according to the manufacturer's instructions. Perform all necessary connections to vertical structures (for example, a chimney), The roof ridge is closed with a special ridge element.

    Sheets of metal tiles are attached to the crate with self-tapping screws with a neoprene gasket

  6. Installation of a drainage system (if provided by the project). The drainage system protects the walls from excessive moisture. With a cornice height of up to 4 meters, its device is not necessary, but the presence of a gutter and pipes will increase the life of the building, and the costs will pay off handsomely. It is better to purchase a set of gutter systems at the same time as buying a roofing material, matching the color of the roof or a contrasting color, depending on the taste of the owner. The drainage system includes:
  7. Installation of building gables, filing of cornices. In buildings made of masonry material, gables are usually made of wall material. In houses made of timber or logs, the pediments are sewn up after the installation of the rafters, fixing racks and girders on the end pairs of trusses, along which they are sewn with boards or metal profiles.

    The pediments of the baths are usually sewn up with siding or wooden clapboard along the crate fixed on the end truss truss

Lastly, the cornices are hemmed and spotlights are mounted in the cornice overhang.

Video: roof, attic and rough ceiling of the bath

If you do not feel able to correctly calculate the truss system, complete the drawings and build the roof - entrust this part of the work to professionals. If you decide to overcome difficulties on your own, remember that the construction of the roof will take more than one week, because all work requires accuracy and consistency.

The construction of baths involves the arrangement of the roof, the options for its creation may be different, but provided that one of them corresponds to this structure. The question of which bath roof design is preferable in this particular case worries many owners of private households, especially when the work is done on their own.

A bathhouse is usually built on its own in a personal or suburban area, so you need to know not only how to make a roof, but also how to properly waterproof it and lay a heat-insulating layer, which roofing materials to prefer and other aspects of solving the problem. The fact is that the ceilings on this building have significant differences from the roofs on buildings for other purposes: the main load on its supporting structure is created from the inside of the room, and not from the outside.

As you know, the humidity and temperature conditions in the bath during the adoption of procedures are significantly increased and therefore a large amount of steam enters the attic space, after which it settles on the roof structure elements.

What are the roofs for baths

To help make a decision on how to make a roof for a bath, a construction project and applicable domestic building codes can help. First of all, when choosing the type of roof, the technical parameters of the structure are taken into account.

An important factor is the type of area where construction work is being carried out:

  • a simple bathhouse near a residential building is usually built with a gable roof, such as in the photo;
  • if significant precipitation is observed in the region in winter, then roofs with a large angle of inclination are chosen, but not more than 45 degrees. Such a structural solution allows the snow mass not to linger on the roof, and it rolls down;
  • in the steppe or forest-steppe natural zone, where frequent gusts of strong wind are observed, the choice is stopped at a minimum slope, due to which the roof structure has such aerodynamic properties that allow avoiding heavy loads on it;
  • in the case when the building is attached to a residential building, the problem of how to make the roof of the bath is simply solved - it is created as a shed in accordance with the technical characteristics of the house (in more detail: "").


The term of its operation without repair or restoration will depend on which roof arrangement option is chosen and the material for its creation, how reliably the installation work is performed. Multi-pitched roofs have the most presentable appearance, they have a more complex structure and they provide the building with an original look. But they are not always a reasonable solution, since they are expensive for the owners.

Features of creating bath roofs

Each of the options for how to make a roof in a bath has its own characteristics and advantages. So the presence of an attic improves the appearance of the building and ensures the creation of effective thermal insulation, and this factor is very important, since the bath is most often used in the cold season.


Regarding what material is best in the bath, it depends on its slope. When using a metal roof, this parameter should be approximately 20 degrees, and if a slate roof is to be created, then about 30 degrees. Roll coating requires the roof slope to be within 5 degrees.

In the absence of an attic, the slope, regardless of the roofing material used, cannot be more than 10 degrees.

Rafter system for the roof of the bath

Before making the roof of the bath, it is necessary to equip a supporting truss structure for it, consisting of separate trusses. They also carry out the crate and select the material for laying on the roof.

In the upper part of the strapping there are floor beams. Before that, to support the legs of the truss system, a beam called a Mauerlat is mounted. At the same time, special nests are made in the walls of the building, which are necessary to comply with the strictly horizontal location of the floor beams, which are produced outside the outer perimeter of the bath. The size of the release is regulated depending on the design solution, but if it is more than 50 centimeters, the installation of support poles will be required.


Before you put the roof on the bath, before fixing the rafter trusses to the required places, you need to make sure that they are fully consistent with each other. To do this, you can put them all in one pile, and if there are deviations, it is desirable to correct such elements, and, if necessary, redo them. Otherwise, if the imperfections are not eliminated, the reliability of the truss structure will be violated.

After that, on the overlapping beams or on the Mauerlat, the corresponding markup is performed. It is possible, to give greater reliability, to nail the trimmings of the bars in such a way that the supporting parts of the rafter legs are located in the space between the trimmings. This method of installing the truss system allows you to significantly speed up the work and prevent errors and miscalculations in the size and location of trusses.

How to insulate the ceiling in the bath, in detail on the video:

At the same time, front trusses are attached to the center of the roof at a very small angle, which gives the supporting structure the necessary rigidity and allows it to withstand significant wind loads during operation. All other roof trusses are mounted at the same distance, which should be one meter, and fixed in place by stitching with a ridge board.

After the installation of the truss structure is completed, they begin to create a crate, which is made solid or sparse, depending on the roofing material that is decided to be used to cover the roof.

The choice of thermal insulation for the roof of the bath

The choice of how to make the roof of the bath involves the purchase of high-quality heat-insulating material, since the reliability and strength of the roof is affected by the increased temperature from the steam room. If you do not do the right insulation, in winter, the integrity of the roof will be threatened by the formation of condensate, which will certainly cause irreparable damage.


  • the insulation is fixed under the rafter system;
  • thermal insulation is laid on the roof structure;
  • thermal insulation products are placed in the gaps between the trusses. This option is the most preferable because it is easy to implement and requires a minimum of time.

The construction of a bathhouse for permanent operation cannot be completed without roof insulation, because the safety of the wood materials that were used over a long period depends on this. The insulation is laid as close as possible to all planes of the truss structure. Even small holes and cracks are not allowed.


Most often, mineral wool is used for insulation, which, as a building material, has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, low price and environmental safety. Some property owners use foam as a heater, which is less often chosen due to its poor environmental friendliness.

In addition to thermal insulation, when creating a roof for a bath building, one must remember to provide hydro and vapor barriers, which provide the interior with the opportunity to "breathe".

The construction of the bath is completed with fastening roof structure, a gable roof is also possible here. The second option is the most popular. This type of roof is quite capable of building on one's own subject to accurate calculations of the angle of inclination of the slopes and the power of the truss system.

Also consider using roof space- whether the attic will be equipped or. If you want to build a bathhouse with a veranda under a common roof, this must also be calculated in advance.

All these details affect ridge height, type of thermal and waterproofing, selection of necessary materials and the complexity of installation work. Of great importance is price structural elements and roofing material.

Benefits of a gable roof

Why when building a roof for a bath choose more often duplex building? It is related to the complex benefits:

  • thanks to the pitched structure, it is provided natural outlet snow and rainwater, so the roof does not require significant maintenance efforts in the autumn-winter season;
  • the practicality of the design allows you to equip under the roof attic, adapted for storing various equipment and drying bath brooms, or a full-fledged living quarters where guests can be accommodated;
  • with a small area, baths in the attic can be equipped technical area with the removal of heating and air conditioning systems upstairs;
  • gable roof installation not too complicated and is accessible to the non-specialist subject to careful preparation and security and during work at height;
  • ridge roof buildings very attractive, have a finished look and allow you to add variety due to the individual decor of the gables and the use of various roofing materials;
  • roof with two slopes lasts a long time and does not require expensive complex repairs;
  • gable roof construction is sufficient economical option m in comparison with the construction of more complex and large-scale roofing systems.

Gable roof device

Before purchasing materials and proceeding with installation, you must familiarize yourself with features gable roof devices. The basis of the design is rafter system, which relies directly on the erected walls if the bath is log-house or from glued beams.

In the case of using other types of wall materials (brick or foam concrete), a support bar(Mauerlat) for attaching the rafter system. Depending on the span between the supporting wall and the ridge part of the rafter, the rafters can be layered or hanging.

As additional roof reinforcements with a span of more than 3 meters install rafter legs (struts) and a rafter headstock to support the ridge run. Install along the entire length of the slope triangular trusses with a certain step.

Advice: the step of the truss truss should be 1.2 meters, which provides sufficient structural strength and convenience when fixing the transverse crate.

Rafter with support on Mauerlat it is easier to mount than hanging ones, but it is necessary to take into account the spacer load on the walls and adjust the weight of the truss system. Skat is considered optimal 40-50 , therefore, with significant inter-slope spans, they increase proportionally, which can improve design buildings and become the basis for the arrangement of the attic residential area.

Phased construction technology

The construction of a gable roof bath includes several main stages:

  1. structural calculations and drafting drawing or scheme with sizing;
  2. acquisition and markup materials, tool preparation;
  3. installation bearing beams;
  4. installation truss system, including the installation of gables of intermediate trusses;
  5. equipment ventilation pipe outlet from the stove-heater with a refractory casing to prevent the roof from catching fire;
  6. fastening battens;
  7. installation insulating layers;
  8. flooring roofing materials;
  9. registration ridge part.

The best material for the formation of the truss system is a quality pine timber. Suitable for framing edged board. Roofing material is chosen based on style preferences, budgetary possibilities and the complexity of the flooring.

The most popular roofing material for a bath is considered to be profiled sheet due to the optimal combination of its cost, performance and ease of installation.

Advice: do not choose twisted wood for rafters in order to avoid deformations roofs afterwards.

For waterproofing it makes sense to purchase membrane materials that are lightweight and at the same time highly effective in protecting the structure and attic space from moisture. Thermal insulation is selected taking into account material weight, which is especially important when building a large bath with several rooms, including a residential attic area.

You can clearly see the construction of a gable roof for a bath in the following video: