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After installing plastic windows, the question always arises about the design of slopes. After all, they perform not only an aesthetic function, but also provide additional heat, sound and moisture insulation. Experts say that the design of slopes is a complex and expensive process. In this regard, many are interested in interesting ways and options for slopes on plastic windows.

There are several technologies for mounting slopes on windows or the so-called<окосячки>. This is plasterboard sheathing, installation of sandwich panels, plastering and finishing with PVC panels. Let's take a closer look at these types.

It is better to sheathe with drywall with increased resistance to moisture - GKLV. There are two ways to do-it-yourself plasterboard sheathing of slopes on windows: frame and frameless.

Moisture resistant drywall.

Frame installation method

On the drywall joining line with, a profile is screwed into the groove on the screws. The frame is ready, you can begin installation. The device of window slopes has such a feature that there is an empty space between the GKLV sheet and the wall, this will worsen the thermal insulation qualities of the opening. Therefore, the space is filled with mineral wool or polyurethane foam.

When using mounting foam, it is worth filling the space carefully, because. when dried, the foam has the ability to increase in volume and can damage drywall.

At the junction of drywall sheets, a perforated corner is mounted and putty on top of it.

Frameless installation method

Basically, the frameless method is used for plasterboarding old ones. Before starting work, the surfaces must be cleaned of finishing materials and primed. Drywall is cut and prepared in advance, then glue is applied pointwise to the blanks and they are attached to the guide.

To fix drywall and evenly distribute the glue, you should press it with a wooden block, this will give evenness to the structure.

For additional fixation, use spacers installed to. Complete fixation of the gypsum mortar (Rovband or similar) occurs within an hour. At the end of the sheathing, they begin to putty and paint, you can also paste over with wallpaper.

This is the most common and quite practical way for do-it-yourself windows. Usually use a sandwich - panels with a thickness of 10mm. They differ in budgetary cost, along with high rates of moisture resistance. The surface is glossy, matte, stylized as wood. They have a spongy structure, which provides thermal insulation.

Sandwich panels

Another technology for mounting slopes is to install a wooden block and fix it with self-tapping screws.

Advantage This method is that with the help of a wooden lath it is faster and easier to align crooked corners, and the irregularities between the lath and the wall are filled with mounting foam or gypsum mortar. This method allows you to quickly install window slopes with curvature of the walls

minus visual, then that even with small sizes of the bar, you will have to use a corner of at least 30 mm. In addition, when attaching the rail, a corner break occurs.

Fastening is carried out on a mounting foam. From the window, sandwich panels are wound tightly on the box and foamed, and the other edge is attached to a wooden crate. The outer edges of the sandwich panels are fixed with screws. The edges where the screws are screwed will close.

Treat joints and cracks with sealant.

Plastering window openings

This method is the most time-consuming and requires the utmost accuracy, but the least expensive. Mixtures for plaster are based on gypsum and cement. Dilute with water before use.

Work performance technology

Before plastering, the entire work surface is carefully prepared. If there are strong irregularities, then the entire wall is knocked down and primed. First, the walls are plastered, and only then they start working with. This is a very long process, because one layer must dry, only then a second can be applied to it. The gaps are filled with mounting foam, this provides additional sound insulation. Each layer of the coating - the base must be primed. Corners are finished with special plaster corners, which ensure the evenness of the corner.

In order to avoid cracks in the future at the points of contact between the plastic and the plaster, an acrylic sealant is applied at the corners of the joining of the box, which can be safely painted.

How to make slopes on plastic windows

To install you will need:

• Plastic panel, they are three - and six meters;
• Starting profile, the same dimensions as the panel;
• Profile F - figurative, for edging a window opening;
• Mineral wool, for insulation;
• "Liquid nails" with a gun,
• Self-tapping screws for metal, for attaching profiles to the frame and window sill.

The work is carried out in several stages:

1. All cracks are sealed with silicone white sealant.

Warm slopes on the windows in winter will prevent the formation of condensate and, accordingly, the appearance of harmful fungi.

Installing slopes for plastic windows with your own hands is a sure way to save money. Because sometimes in companies this process is expensive and not every company undertakes to carry it out.

Subject to the correct measurements and the selection of all the necessary components, making slopes on the windows with your own hands will not be a difficult task for you.

After installing the window block and filling the gap around the perimeter of the structure with mounting foam, you need to take care of finishing the window slopes from the outside and from the inside. Exterior finishing should not be postponed indefinitely for a number of reasons - without it, windows look untidy, and building foam is exposed to the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation.

Functional purpose of external slopes

Polyurethane foam is able to quickly expand, filling the smallest cavities and firmly adhering to any surface. In a frozen state, it helps the fasteners to fix the window block in the opening, serves as a good heat and sound insulator, a barrier against dust and moisture from the street. Construction foam is not afraid of temperature changes, exposure to precipitation, but is destroyed under ultraviolet radiation.

If filled joints are left exposed to the sun, the polyurethane foam will degrade in a matter of months. Mounting foam under the influence of ultraviolet becomes brittle and crumbles, moisture penetrates into the material and accelerates the process of destruction. As a result, over time, the seams lose their tightness.

This results in freezing and wetting of the walls around the window, large heat losses, fogging of glass, mold growth in damp walls. The window unit can warp, and its mechanisms will fail faster due to increased loads.

Finishing the slopes, performed immediately after the installation of the translucent structure or after a short time, protects the seams filled with mounting foam from external influences. When it is arranged, the external slopes can be additionally thermally insulated. High-quality finishing gives the windows a complete look, improves the appearance of the facade.

Materials and technologies

Plastic slopes

Used for window cladding:

1. Facade plaster. The advantages of traditional plastering technology include the low cost of the material and the ability to finish window openings of any shape, including arched ones. The disadvantages include the complexity of installation, the duration of the work, the low thermal insulation properties of the finish, the need to periodically re-paint the surface. Violation of the technology of plastering works leads to delamination of the plaster layer from the base - in this case, the lining will have to be completely redone
2. Drywall. Moisture-resistant GKL is easily cut and attached to a prepared surface, it is inexpensive. But the material, even painted with a moisture-resistant paint for outdoor use, should not be exposed to direct water. This cladding option is suitable for windows overlooking a glazed balcony, terrace, or located under a wide roof overhang of a private house.
3. PVC products. Slopes made of plastic are easy to install and are ideal for finishing metal-plastic windows. Manufacturers offer various decoration options, which allows you to choose the right color and texture of the material. Flexible PVC elements make it possible to decorate window openings of complex shapes, with rounded outlines. The material is easily cleaned of dirt, does not crack, does not deform, does not change color under the influence of temperature fluctuations, precipitation and UV rays. Lack of prefabricated PVC elements - high cost
4. This material consists of two sheets of plastic and a layer of foamed polymer heat insulator between them. The advantages of the material are the same as those of PVC slopes, but sandwich panels additionally insulate the open part of the window opening
5. Metal. There is a wide range of slopes made of galvanized steel on the market, including those with a protective and decorative coating. Manufacturers of wooden windows with double-glazed windows can offer ready-made slope elements made of aluminum and decorated to look like wood, but this finishing option is expensive
6. Tree. External slopes made of wood are suitable for decorating and protecting window openings in wooden houses. The most durable option is a thick larch board impregnated with an antiseptic and a water-repellent paint and varnish coating. Also, wooden cladding is mounted on window openings overlooking a glazed balcony, terrace

Before applying the plaster, it is necessary to prepare the surface. First of all, cut off the excess foam with a mounting knife. If the slopes are already plastered, they are tapped with a hammer. In the presence of voids, delaminations, the old plaster is completely knocked down.

Surfaces are cleaned of dust, dirt, deep cracks are filled with putty for outdoor use and wait for it to dry. Then the slopes are primed, and 3-4 hours after drying, they begin to install beacons.

Thin slats are fixed at a distance of 5-6 cm from the window block on liquid nails or gypsum glue. Beacons should be located so that the plaster layer overlaps the edge of the block by 1-2 cm. The slope surface should not be perpendicular to the plane of the window, but at a slight angle - this improves illumination.

The plaster mortar is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions. Then the first layer of plaster is applied over the beacons - it must be thick and form the required plane. Be sure to check the angles of inclination of the resulting slopes. For strength, you can use a reinforcing mesh - it is recessed into a layer of plaster.

After drying the base layer (it takes 24 hours), the surface is treated with a primer and dried. The leveling plaster layer should be thin. It is dried and treated with a construction grater. Then the surface is primed again - after drying, it is ready for painting with facade paint.

Drywall

Necessary tools and materials:

Strips of the required width are cut from the GKL sheet for two side and upper slopes. To do this, make a deep cut with a sharp knife along the rail, break along the line, and then cut the cardboard on the back side.

The surface of the slopes is cleaned of dust and dirt, primed if it is planned to glue the material. A corner is attached to the window frame with liquid nails, a strip of plasterboard is glued to it.

Previously, a moisture-resistant adhesive is applied to the back of the drywall element with volume dots or a snake, closer to the outer edge. Then the drywall strip is pressed, fixing at the desired angle.

Second mounting option: a crate of laths is attached to the slopes with dowel-screws, on which drywall is mounted using self-tapping screws. Seams are recommended to be sealed with putty for outdoor use. Then the lining of the opening is primed and painted, a plastic corner is glued around the perimeter to protect the ends of the drywall from moisture.

PVC sheet

Necessary tools and materials:

Rails are mounted along the border of the window opening, along the perimeter, with the help of dowel screws. With self-tapping screws, a starting U-shaped profile is attached to the window block, and an F-shaped profile is attached to the rails with brackets. In this case, the F-profile strip must go to the facade.

If necessary, heat-insulating material is glued to the slopes. Strips of plastic are inserted with their edges into the grooves of the profiles. In the corners, the joints should be carefully sealed with liquid plastic.

Manufacturers offer special L-shaped panels (plastic slope with casing) for finishing slopes, in this case it is not required to use an F-profile.

Necessary tools and materials:

• plastic sandwich panels with foamed thermal insulator
• U-shaped PVC profile
• PVC corner
• screwdriver + screws
• assembly knife
• liquid Nails

After cleaning the surface of the outer part of the window opening from dirt, on the sides and in the upper part of the window block, a starting U-shaped profile is screwed with screws.

Planks are cut out of sheet material along the width of the slope and fastened to liquid nails, after inserting one edge into the starting profile. The top panel is fixed first, then the side panels. To protect the ends of the elements from the sandwich panel and give the window a complete look, the outer edge of the opening is closed with a plastic corner.

The protective film from the sandwich panels is removed only at the end of the work. This will protect the surface from accidental damage during installation.

Metal

Necessary tools and materials:

• metal scissors
• tape measure + pencil
• goniometer
• sheet steel slope profiles
• screwdriver + self-tapping screws (painted to match the metal for cladding)
• assembly knife
• sealing noise-absorbing tape
• deep penetration primer
• brush
• silicone sealant
• foamed heat insulator + liquid nails (if necessary, insulate the structure)

At the preliminary stage, the opening surfaces are cleaned of dirt, excess foam is cut off with a knife. Then it is important to take measurements correctly in order to determine the length of the top and side trim elements, the angle of inclination of the drainage.

The drainage should have sidewalls bent upwards - they go onto the slopes. The angle of inclination of the drainage system is not less than 10°. To attach the drainage to the window frame, use self-tapping screws painted to match this element. Under the drainage system, it is required to lay a seal in advance so that rain and hail do not interfere with their noise.

Then they are adjusted to the size of the planks - at the side, the lower part is cut in accordance with the angle of inclination of the drainage. The upper part of the plank facing the facade is cut at an angle of 45 °, the height of the protruding part must correspond to its width. The side elements are put on with a profile groove on the sides of the drainage system and attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

For ease of installation in the strips, you can pre-drill holes for self-tapping screws.

The upper slope element is adjusted to size, the sides are cut out and bent along the edges with a width of about 1 cm. The part that will lie on the pediment should have protrusions on each side equal to its width. The upper element is mounted in such a way as to insert the sides into the grooves of the sidewalls, and the protruding parts on the gable - for the triangular protrusions of the side elements.

All junctions of metal elements to the wall are filled with sealant for outdoor use to prevent moisture from entering the structure.

Tree

Necessary tools and materials:

The outer part of the wall opening is cleaned of dirt, excess mounting foam is removed, if the wall is wooden, it is additionally treated with an antiseptic. Measurements are carried out for each window separately, as precise fitting of the cladding elements is required. All prepared wooden planks are treated with an antiseptic.

The lower part of the sidewalls is cut at an angle corresponding to the angle of inclination of the drainage. The slopes are installed in the outer grooves of the frame and fastened together with self-tapping screws in the upper corners. It is important to achieve a fit of the elements, there should be no gaps at the junctions of the top and side strips.

The gap between the structure and the opening is carefully filled with mounting foam, taking into account that it increases in volume by 3 times. A day later, after waiting for the foam to completely harden, it is possible to attach trim around the opening. They will close the gap between the finish and the wall, give the cladding a finished look.

The side trims join with the upper cuts at 45°. It is convenient to mount wooden planks on nails without hats or wooden studs and wood glue so that fasteners are not visible on the front side. The finished structure is covered with stain and varnish. The joints between the casing and the wall are filled with sealant.

Internal slopes

To finish the internal slopes, the same materials are used as for the external ones, with the exception of metal strips. The technologies are generally similar, but there may be some nuances that we will consider in more detail.

Regardless of the material chosen, the finish is mounted in such a way that the slope plane is located at an angle of more than 90 ° relative to the window. "Dawn Angle" increases the area of ​​dispersion of the light flux - the room will be brighter. First of all, this is true for windows in thick walls.

Decorative plaster

The plaster layer when finishing the window opening from the side of the room can be made smooth or embossed using ordinary or textured plaster.

Plastering is carried out in several stages:

• slopes are cleaned and primed
• apply and level the base layer of plaster
• a perforated corner is mounted on the upper and side edges of the window opening and fixed by leveling the plaster mortar that has come through the perforation
• after drying, the base layer is primed
• apply a layer of textured plaster and use stencils, a spatula or other devices to form a decorative relief
• after drying, paint in the desired color with moisture-resistant paint for the interior

To reduce the risk of slope freezing, use insulating textured plaster. Increased thermal insulation properties are given to it by a filler - vermiculite, perlite, expanded polystyrene granules.

Plastic finish

Installation work includes:

• fastening a rail 10x40 mm along the edge of the slopes (it is nailed to wooden walls, in other cases it is required to drill holes for dowels)
• cutting a groove 1 cm deep in the mounting foam on three sides of the window block (the window sill must already be installed) or fixing the starting PVC profile
• fitting plastic panels, taking into account the slope of the window sill and the angle of dawn (so that there are no gaps after installing the parts, they are adjusted by removing extra millimeters with a file)
• fixing the panels to the mounting foam (first the top panel, then the side panels)
• installation of decorative corners to decorate the edges of the opening (attached with liquid nails)
• removal of the protective film and sealing the joints of the panels with liquid plastic in color

Before installing the panels, holes are drilled along the outer edge of each element according to the diameter of the fixing studs. The back side is treated with sandpaper to improve adhesion to the mounting foam. The slopes are moistened so that the foam polymerizes better.

The top panel is inserted into the groove, foam is applied to it with short sprays, taking into account that it will increase in volume by 3 times. The panel is pressed with the outer edge to the rail and fixed with nails. If you drive them through the finished holes, the edge of the panel will not crack. The sides are attached in the same way.

If you use a PVC panel with a casing, no additional decoration of the edges of the opening is required. But in the future, when replacing wall decoration, it will be more difficult to accurately perform the joint of materials. A corner or a removable decorative profile can be dismantled and then reinstalled.

Plasterboard finish

To finish the internal slopes with moisture-resistant drywall, various technologies are used. In all cases, it is required to clean the slopes, cut grooves 1 cm deep in the mounting foam and fit the sheathing elements to size.

1. Foam mounting. The slopes are moistened with water, the foam is applied to the wall and to the strip of plasterboard. They put the part in place, after a short time they remove it and install it again. Fix to the wall with pieces of masking tape. After polymerization of the foam, the adhesive tape is removed, the joints are puttied. The cleaned structure is painted, after which a protective PVC corner is glued along the edge
2. Putty installation. Slopes should be primed and then leveled with a base layer of putty. After it dries, the surface is primed, a thin layer of putty is applied and the prepared GKL element is pressed against it. A day later, the joints are puttied, cleaned, primed and painted, a protective corner is installed
3. Frame mounting. A crate is mounted from wooden slats or a metal profile. The details of the cladding made of GKL are fixed on it with self-tapping screws, sinking the heads. Joints and attachment points are puttied. Finishing work is standard. This option allows you to lay insulation between the elements of the crate

wood finish

The internal slope from a solid board can be mounted using the same technology as the external one - on mounting foam. A variant with a frame made of wooden slats is also used.

The crate makes it possible to sheathe the window opening with clapboard, placing the elements horizontally.

In the course of work:

• fasten thin slats along the edge of the opening
• cut a groove in the mounting foam around the window unit
• cut to size lining
• the lower element is cut so that the bevel matches the angle of the window sill
• with an indent of 0.5 cm from the outer edge, two mounting holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in each element
• the lower element is leveled (its upper edge must be strictly horizontal) and fastened with a self-tapping screw through the lower hole
• put a groove on the upper element on the crest of the lower element, gently tap it with a hammer so that the connection is tight
• first screw the lower screw of the upper bar, and then the upper screw of the lower bar (this simplifies the assembly of the canvas from the lining)
• repeat the cycle until the opening is completely lined
• attach a decorative corner around the perimeter
• cover the structure with stain and protective varnish

Thermal insulation can be pre-installed on the slopes. If mineral wool is used, it is required to attach a waterproofing membrane to the base, and a vapor barrier on top of the mineral wool. Before installation, all wooden elements cut to size are treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

You can mount the finish of external and internal slopes on your own, if you have basic skills in working with a standard set of tools.

Video: Do-it-yourself installation of PVC slopes.

Video: Installation of metal slopes.

Video: Installation of metal slopes

Video: Slopes made of wood.

Each of us sooner or later faces the installation of new beautiful windows. As a rule, old windows made of cracked wood are replaced by modern plastic structures. At the same time, after the dismantling of dilapidated wooden frames and the installation of new euro-windows, an untreated strip remains along the perimeter of the window from the inside, which has a width of 5-15 centimeters, depending on the design of the building. This strip is called a slope, it must be covered. Today we will talk about what it is for, and how to finish the slopes of plastic windows with your own hands.

The need for finishing window slopes

Facing slopes (the inside of a window or doorway) is the final stage when installing new doors and windows. First of all, this procedure is considered necessary from the point of view of aesthetics and completeness of the created interior: the old slopes are destroyed after the removal of the old window, and it is necessary to close the mounting seam with foam, which is formed during the installation of new window blocks. But also finishing the slopes allows you to improve the thermal insulation of the entire opening and get rid of many problems with windows.

Qualitatively finished slopes are not afraid of temperature changes, condensation does not occur on them, and the sound and heat insulation properties of the opening only increase. But often the owner of the window refuses to finish the slopes or puts this work aside. Many people have such thoughts: after all, the window is reliably foamed, then nothing will happen to it if it stays a little without slopes. Only, as a rule, it drags on for a long time, and the windows remain in this form for years.

1. The gaps between the double-glazed windows are most often sealed with mounting foam, which is an excellent soundproofing material. The sun's rays are destructive to this foam, and it quickly becomes unusable.
2. Foam in the hardened state increases the volume and “crushes” itself, therefore, after a while, a gap may appear between the frame and the foam layer, which will nullify all efforts to install a window or door.
3. Open foam is not a waterproofing material and tends to absorb moisture, which destroys the material when it freezes.
4. The foam, which is open for a long time, loses its thermal insulation properties very quickly: an increase in humidity by only 5% leads to a decrease in the thermal insulation of the foam by 50%.

You can wait with finishing the slopes with your own hands if your house or apartment is supposed to be renovated with redevelopment. In any case, you will have to start with the installation of new windows. We put windows - cover them with plastic wrap and continue the repair. And you can finish the openings at the final stage of repair work.

Plastering and painting slopes

The undoubted advantage of finishing slopes with plaster is its low cost. Before work, a dry mix based on gypsum or cement simply needs to be diluted with water. Thoroughly clean the surface near the double-glazed window, removing all dirt, dust and bituminous stains, and chop down the concrete in the corners. For good adhesion of walls (brickwork) and plaster, it is recommended to embroider the seams of slopes and corners by 10 millimeters.

After you plaster the walls that are adjacent to the window, you can plaster the slopes. Cover the walls with plaster, then level the slope angles. Remember that a new layer can only be laid after the previous ones have dried, so this method can be called very long, because the entire plastering procedure takes 2-3 days. Often the plaster layer turns out to be too thick, which is caused by the features and irregularities of the walls.

Apply a small amount of mortar to the slope groove, leveling it. Let this piece dry a bit. Apply some more plaster, smooth, continue until the slope sinuses are completely filled. At one time it is allowed to apply a layer with a thickness of about 5-7 millimeters. Level the layer in the direction from the bottom up, moving to the sides. Use a trowel to align the join lines.

When finishing window slopes with plaster, keep a small angle between the frame and the wall. Make sure the corners are the same. Before plastering on the top of the slope, you can fix a wooden lath with a perfectly horizontal even edge. You can fix it with gypsum plaster or nails. On the sides of the slope, you can also install slats.

It is recommended to level the plaster with a wooden bevel with a rounded handle. The width of the slope tells you how long to take the bevel. One end of the bevel is mounted on a box, the other on a wooden rail. It is possible to start leveling the edge of the corner between the slope and the wall only after the mortar has begun to set. Then a covering layer of plaster is applied and rubbed off.

To maintain the integrity of the mustache at the proper level, flat fisks or roundings are used. After the layers of plaster have dried, the slats are removed. Treat the remaining sides in the same way. The plastered corner should ideally be lapped with the surface of the walls without prayer, and the covering layer should have the same thickness of 22 millimeters along all slopes.

Remember that when working with plaster it is strictly forbidden to open the window. If the mixture gets into the fittings, it can damage it, as a result of which the window will not perform its functions well. And an even layer of plaster allows the window to open and close normally during the entire operation.

However, finishing the slopes in the old fashioned way with plaster has a whole list of serious drawbacks. The plaster mixture is not sufficiently securely connected to the PVC frame, which ultimately leads to the appearance of gaps between the surfaces of the frame and the slope. Due to the action of seasonal temperature changes and insufficient elasticity of the plaster, cracks form on the surface of the slopes. In addition, the heat-insulating properties of the plaster are weak, which leads to the formation of mold and condensation.

Finishing window slopes with plasterboard

Drywall slopes are already considered traditional. Preference is given, as a rule, to moisture-resistant drywall, which is resistant to condensation that occurs on the window. Or ordinary drywall is treated with a primer in several layers or with a moisture-proof composition. Moisture-resistant drywall has a high level of rigidity, good thermal insulation and increased thermal resistance.

The advantages of openings that are finished with drywall over plastic counterparts are the cheapness of the material and the possibility of quick repair of damage: you just need to putty the damaged area and repaint it. In addition, drywall is able to maintain optimal humidity in the room, absorbing excess moisture and releasing it back when the level of humidity in the environment is insufficient.

However, if the humidity in the room exceeds 75%, then the drywall may swell, losing its original characteristics. In addition, when choosing drywall for finishing slopes on windows, get ready for such negative moments. This material has a relatively low strength, and the created slope can be damaged as a result of mechanical stress. The created slopes require additional repairs over time, or rather, painting, as stains appear on the drywall.

Sheets of material are fixed on a wooden or metal crate (if the wall on which the window is located will be sewn up with drywall), on mounting foam (if the putty does not set well), on the appropriate glue or putty. The last method is the most common.

After installing the window, you need to cut off the excess foam and remove the old finish. Don't forget to prime the surface as well. If there are large potholes and cracks, they should be leveled with a plaster mortar. To avoid moisture penetration into drywall and prevent mold, it is recommended to impregnate it with a moisture-resistant composition before assembling the slope.

Then cut drywall. The sheet is marked according to clearly measured dimensions from the window or door opening, which are taken along the width of the part to be sheathed and the height of the opening. A properly marked sheet of drywall is cut with a special knife, then the finished panels are tried on in size, the entrance to the starting strip and the slope from the frame to the wall.

The slope is assembled starting from the top panel. First of all, glue is applied to the edge of the panel. Glue is applied in a single strip, a couple of centimeters wide. Next, the panel is installed in the starting strip, pushed in more tightly, and the second edge of the drywall sheet is pressed against the wall. They also do the same with the side panels, which are inserted into the grooves and pressed against the wall with glue. All joints must be treated with a neutral sealant.

To prevent premature wear of the corner when finishing the door slopes, you can use painting corners made of galvanized steel or aluminum. In places where drywall enters the window profiles, it is recommended to stick a mesh tape so that cracks do not form there. After that, the surface is prepared for painting: 2-3 layers of putty are applied and the last layer is overwritten. You can paint drywall with oil or acrylic paint of any color.

Installation of plastic slopes

The most versatile type of slopes are plastic, in the constructions of which mineral wool is used, which gives the slope hydro- and thermal insulation. Plastic is a very durable material that can last for about 15-20 years. And now it is worth considering the arguments why it is rational to put plastic slopes:

1. Plastic slopes can be installed on the same day when you installed new doors and windows, and lining the openings with plaster, drying it and painting it takes several days.
2. PVC slopes are additionally a heat-insulating barrier between the street and the room.
3. Plastic openings have high moisture resistance, great strength and rigidity, they do not fade, do not fog up, and are also easy to clean.
4. The material of such panels corresponds to the material from which the double-glazed window is made, therefore they expand with the same temperature changes, and there is no excessive stress in the slopes.
5. Plastic slopes do not require additional painting work.
6. Door and window openings get an attractive finished look because they blend well with modern door and window designs.

Sandwich panels

Currently, when finishing slopes with plastic with their own hands, two products have become widespread: plastic wall panels and sandwich panels. Sandwich panels are 2 sheets of plastic, between them is a layer of foamed or extruded polystyrene. They are produced with a thickness of about 8 - 36 millimeters. When facing a window slope, it is best to use panels that are 1 centimeter thick.

Sandwich panels you can veneer slopes of wooden or plastic doors and windows, the width of which is 5 - 150 centimeters. The advantage of such panels is obvious: in principle, slopes can not be insulated, since the heat-insulating material is incorporated in the panel design. The disadvantage is that the sandwich panel can delaminate under the influence of moisture.

It is recommended to postpone the installation of such slopes for the next day, so that the mounting foam has time to dry completely. To ensure the best insulation performance, slopes must be installed at the same time as window sills. There are several methods for fixing sandwich panels to the wall, but it is recommended to use the most common and practical one.

The ends of the panels are fastened with dowels to the base of the slope, then fasteners and plastic decorative corners are installed. All seams adjoining sandwich panels to window sills, windows and door frames should be treated with PVC-based adhesive or neutral sealant. Unlike silicone sealants, they do not have a sticky consistency, as a result of which they do not become dirty or turn yellow.

Wall panels

Wall plastic panels are a less expensive facing material than sandwich counterparts. Plastic panels are colored or white hollow panels, inside of which there are stiffening ribs located across the sheet. The thickness of such wall panels is close to 1 centimeter, width - 25, 39 and 37.5 centimeters, length - 3 or 2.7 meters.

Such wall panels are recommended for use with slope depths in houses up to 25 centimeters, because with wider openings it will be difficult to achieve sufficient rigidity and strength of the coating. When facing slopes with such panels, it is imperative to create insulation from mounting foam or basalt wool. Do not forget to close the joints with a decorative corner.

Plastic wall panels are glossy and matte. Matte products are more often used, as they do not glare in the sun and look less pompous. It is also possible to find slabs in the "wood look" version of various shades, which allows you to finish the slopes in a wooden house in full accordance with the interior design.

Finishing slopes with decorative stone

In the interior, natural stone, be it granite, marble or onyx, is used quite rarely, as it is expensive and weighs a lot, which causes problems with transportation and installation, because not every wall can withstand the weight of such a cladding. Therefore, its place is gradually replaced by a light and inexpensive decorative (artificial) stone. This material goes well with wood, so it is often used to finish window and door slopes.

The composition of the decorative stone for cladding includes cement or gypsum, a variety of dyes and fillers. Perlite, expanded clay and pumice are used as fillers, so the weight of a decorative stone is approximately 2 times less than the mass of a natural one. And if you compare it with granite, the difference will be even more significant: artificial stone is 3-4 times lighter than natural stone.

But at the same time, decorative stone outwardly practically does not differ from natural stone, successfully imitating it. It can look like a brick, it can be "chipped" - one that has a knocked down texture and uneven edges, as if finished with a jackhammer. Sawn decorative stone with smooth, even edges is also on sale. Rubble stones resemble natural boulders of various shapes and sizes.

Finishing door slopes with stone can be done independently, since for facing there is no need to perfectly level the surface, which means there will be no labor-intensive work. For interior decoration, it is recommended to choose decorative tiles that have a thickness of 1.5 - 2 centimeters, and which are dyed over the entire thickness, since defects will not be noticeable in the event of a chip.

The presence of a textured side of the tile allows it to be mounted on any surface, and special rounded and corner elements - to create complex structures on slopes and openings. Therefore, preparing the surface for the installation of decorative stone will not take you much time. Make notches on a smooth surface to ensure high adhesion of stone plates with glue, and then prime the slope surface. After that, glue is applied to the surface of the walls or the sole of the glue using a comb spatula.

The decorative stone is laid in even horizontal rows and is perfectly glued to the surface with liquid nails. Align the plates with a level. If you need to cut platinum, you should do this: when gypsum is the main component of the material, you can use a hacksaw for trimming, and if cement is the base, you should use an electric circular saw.

The last step in finishing the slopes with a decorative stone is grouting when the glue finally sets. It is customary to seal the seams the next day, filling them with a special solution and smoothing with a rubber spatula. You can also lay artificial stone end-to-end without seams.

Finishing of external slopes with metal

External slopes perform several functions. The very first consists in the decorative concealment of a UV-sensitive polyurethane foam. Properly finished external slopes of window structures reliably protect mounting seams from the harmful effects of moisture. Water that enters the mounting foam degrades its thermal insulation qualities and causes the destruction of the material due to constant freezing and thawing, as well as expansion during freezing.

There are a lot of technologies for finishing external window slopes. The most popular option is plastering, but this method has many disadvantages. No matter what you do, there will definitely be a crack between the window frame and the slope. The use of plastic slopes for exterior decoration is impractical: plastic becomes brittle at low temperatures, and this is completely unsuitable for our conditions.

Therefore, it is worth paying attention to the metal slopes that were invented back in Soviet times. The main advantages of external slopes made of metal with a polymer coating are as follows. They increase the thermal insulation properties of the window seam, perfectly protect houses and apartments from freezing and blowing, do not rust, do not change their shape over time, and retain their color.

The only significant drawback of finishing the outer slopes with polymer-coated metal is the high cost. However, this is more than offset by long-term operation of products without the need for repairs. You do not need to plaster, whitewash, paint or finish metal slopes every year, which allows you to significantly save on finishing materials.

Thus, it becomes clear that the slopes must be made immediately after the installation of the window structure. At most, you can postpone this activity until the repair in the apartment is completed. Much will depend on the selected materials and the quality of the installation of the double-glazed window. Properly lined window openings will not freeze and get wet, as a result of which they collapse, peel off and become covered with cracks.

Windows are called the eyes of the house. Their appearance reflects the tastes of the owner. Finishing of windows, their framing give completeness to the facade, emphasize the architectural style of the building, its severity and elegance. Realtors claim that framing the openings from the outside increases the value of the house by 15 - 25%. Many decorative elements made of various materials allow you to create an individual image of the building, imitating any era and direction in architecture.

Window siding

Finishing and framing around the window - an element of architectural decor

Vadik came to me for advice. His elderly relative asked him to prepare and sell the house. It was necessary to maximize the price of the building with minimal cost to give it a marketable appearance. The site was located near the city, and we went to look.

I immediately noticed the framing of the windows. It was an old, faded and cracked cladding. It provided sealing of the opening, but lost its aesthetic appearance. There was no cashing on the facade. It is possible to make a beautiful facade only in harmony of all elements. It was necessary to start with finishing the doorway and windows in the same style.

We had to replace the wooden architraves. We decided to install plastic sandwich panels and frame each opening in the same style throughout the facade. Inside there was also a wooden cashing. She was replaced by slopes made of polyurethane.

Plastic frame parts are the most practical

While we were drawing sketches of the future facade, I told my friend what decorative elements are for facing the opening, and how to cash out inside and out.

Finishing of plastic windows is carried out from various materials:

• tree;
• a rock;
• porcelain stoneware;
• crumb rubber;
• facing tiles;
• plaster molding;
• plastic parts;
• foam elements.

Wood is the most beautiful in its originality and warmth. But it requires constant care and quickly collapses from dampness.

Stone and porcelain tiles are difficult to install and must be periodically varnished. Their main disadvantage is the large weight and load on the foundation.

Styrofoam and gypsum look great, but they are hygroscopic, they need to make a multi-layer protective coating.

Parts made of polyurethane suited us. Plastic products look good inside and out. They have several advantages over other products made from other materials:

• the same color throughout the depth;
• abrasion resistance;
• do not fade in the sun;
• serve more than 20 years outside the building without losing their appearance;
• moisture resistant;
• fireproof;
• easy to mount around the opening.

A large selection of polyurethane parts and extensions allow a novice specialist to independently make trim and window frames.

Polyurethane window cladding elements

Making window frames with polyurethane parts, we first installed plastic trim. The windows were small for the size of the house. Therefore, white cladding should visually enlarge them.

Outside, a large number of decorative elements made of polyurethane are used for cladding door and window openings:

• sandrik - decorative cornice;
• console;
• rack;
• moldiga;
• pilaster;
• window sills;
• platbands;
• false shutters;
• keystone;
• bracket;
• rust imitation.

It is possible to use other details, such as stucco molding, rosette. But they are used less frequently, mainly in the classical styles of the Baroque and Renaissance. Before us was a modern house with a massive foundation lined with stone. To visually equalize the proportions, it was necessary to lay overlays in the form of rusticated stones at the corners. Framing windows with wide side elements will increase them.

The color range of plastic products is large. The most popular are white, woodgrain and various gray tones. Colors are chosen according to the chosen style. It is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the building and openings. Light wide cladding enlarges the windows. If you need to reduce or make less noticeable, you should choose a dark-colored plastic that matches the tone of the walls. Then it is enough to put platbands and a window sill.

If you mount only a narrow molding around the perimeter of the opening, the facade will look strictly, in retro style. Bracket and sandrik without console will stretch the window vertically and make it narrower.

The capstone reminds us of the times of the knights, when they could not make even ceilings and built arched vaults. In combination with overlays under the rustic stone, the illusion of a massive building is created. But such a cladding does not look on wooden houses.

Carved platbands and false shutters are suitable for log cabins. It is desirable to choose a color imitating pine and birch, you can just white.

Finishing the doorway and windows in the same style

To give a stylish look, we decided to install window sills made of acrylic stone under white marble on the ground floor. They are durable, repel water and are not afraid of frost and UV rays. They look more solid and elegant than standard plastic ebbs. Place brackets and moldings under them. From above, a wide sandrik with a triangular protrusion in the center.

To increase the width of the doorway, we mounted pilasters on the sides, creating the illusion of semi-columns. Similar wide consoles adorned the windows. The moldings along the perimeter of the frame emphasized the geometry of the lines, their severity.

On the second floor, they installed a plastic window sill, architraves, and along the side wall, the opening was finished with false shutters with an arched sill. On the front side of the facade, the facing of the walls around the opening was imitated with rustication. At the top, keystones and molding flaunted.

A familiar realtor after we completed the window framing and the transformation of the facade, said that the value of the house had risen by 30%. A properly created image of the facade is of great importance. After all, it is the exterior of the house that makes the main impression.

In addition, we have significantly improved the thermal insulation of windows. Exterior decoration not only decorated, but also reliably protected the walls from getting wet. It became quieter inside, the noise from outside almost did not penetrate. The light frame enhances the natural lighting of the rooms.

Facing openings inside and outside the house

Inside the house, we dismantled the old window sills and platbands. Installed plastic panels at the bottom. Replaced the insulation on the sides and top. Then they checked the vertical and mounted a new profile around the perimeter for support. Placed the top slope. We adjusted the side panels and put them in place by sliding them behind the starting profile around the frame and gluing them to the corner along the inside of the opening.

When the buyer came to look at the house, Vadik and I were convinced of the correctness of our actions. He was not interested in interior decoration, since each person redoes it after buying it in his own way. He checked the condition of the pipes purely mechanically so that they would not leak. But the good condition and beautiful decoration of doors and windows was noticed first of all.

Works such as the installation of skirting boards and ceiling cornices, the finishing of door and window slopes from the side of the premises and on the facade are considered a mere trifle compared to general construction and repair activities. But it is they who put the final point, create a finished look of the interior.
But it's not just beauty. Qualitatively executed slopes strengthen the opening, protect it from destruction, play an important role in the thermal insulation of the building.

After installing the double-glazed window, slopes are installed, the material for the manufacture of which is selected taking into account such parameters as the climatic features of the region, the purpose of the room, the requirements for the appearance and style of decoration, practicality, price, etc.
The main selection criterion is which side of the building - internal or external - is facing. It is clear that not all materials used in rooms with a stable temperature and humidity regime are suitable for the facade of a house.

For interior decoration

In principle, in rooms with normal humidity and constant temperature, slopes can be made from any material. Here, the main criteria are appearance, compatibility with the interior, practicality in care.
Most often, the internal lining of windows is made of the following materials:

• Plaster with subsequent painting;
• Drywall, plywood, chipboard and other sheet materials, which also serve as the basis for subsequent fine finishing;
• Tree;

• Plastic ;
• Ceramic tile;
• Artificial stone for window cladding, etc.

It also matters what the double-glazed windows are made of. If they are wooden, plastic slopes can only spoil the look of the window, reduce its cost. But the lining of a plastic window may well be made of sandwich panels or PVC panels.
The same materials, along with smooth tiled or ceramic tiles (see), are the most practical for finishing openings in wet rooms or those in which wet cleaning and disinfection often have to be done - in kitchens, bathrooms, hospital wards, child care facilities, etc. .

For outdoor decoration

Facing the window opening from the outside reduces the above list of materials by several positions. First of all, this applies to drywall and other sheet materials based on wood waste, which are completely unsuitable for outdoor use.
Under the influence of high humidity, direct exposure to snow and rain, sharp temperature fluctuations, they are deformed and destroyed. Not suitable for exterior decoration and decorative brick or stone tiles based on gypsum - it is also very afraid of moisture.
On the other hand, this list can be expanded with the following materials:

• Metal. Slopes are made of galvanized steel with a color polymer coating;
• Facing brick or clinker tiles;
• Siding. Or rather, special additional elements designed for finishing openings on facades sheathed with this material.

Note. When choosing a window cladding option from the outside, what the building is built of or finished with is of great importance. It is hardly appropriate to glue artificial stone on them if the facade is wooden. But metal slopes look great in any combination, subject to proper color selection.

In general, there are many nuances in the choice of suitable materials. For example, if with rectilinear openings there are no problems during the installation of any of them, then the facing of round windows or openings with arched vaults imposes certain restrictions.
And the choice here is not so great - it's either plaster, or finishing with small tiles, or the use of flexible materials. For example, drywall, which, when wetted, can be given the desired shape. After drying, all its performance characteristics return to the material.

For window sills

Facing the window sill can be made of the same material as the slopes. But it is usually subject to more stringent requirements for strength, resistance to damage and moisture, and other parameters. Therefore, it is not recommended to make it from drywall, ordinary plastic, or veneer with gypsum tiles.
Today in the construction market there are a lot of offers of ready-made window sills, which only need to be adjusted in length and width. They are made of specially treated wood, durable plastic, moisture-resistant MDF and chipboard with a decorative plastic or laminated coating.
Cast window sills made of artificial stone are gaining more and more popularity. They are made individually after taking measurements and choosing the desired shape, and are installed by the manufacturer. Pleasure is not cheap, but, as they say, for centuries.

Unfortunately, this option is not affordable for everyone, besides, if you want to change the interior, it will just be a pity for a lot of money spent. But there is another way to decorate the lower part of the window in an original way by installing a figuratively sawn sheet of durable moisture-resistant material and finishing it with porcelain stoneware or mosaics.
Thus lined window sills look great, are not afraid of moisture and heavy loads, are resistant to scratches, and are easy to clean. And if desired, the tiles can be replaced during the next repair.

The window sill is installed indoors and often performs additional functions - countertops, stands for house plants, shelves for small household appliances in the kitchen.
And the outer one implies installation along the lower edge of the frame of the ebb - an inclined structural element designed to drain water flowing from the window and protect the mounting seam from moisture. The most common material for the manufacture of ebbs is galvanized and polymer-painted metal.

In a word, decorative window cladding today can be very diverse due to the availability of a huge number of traditional and modern materials. The fact that many of them are easy to install with your own hands is also encouraging, achieving not only the aesthetic appearance of the openings, but also increasing their operational properties.

Framing openings - examples of mounting slopes from different materials

If desired, you can handle the work on finishing the slopes on your own, especially when it comes to the installation of sheet materials. Some difficulty in the absence of practice is caused by plastering, tiling and other “wet” processes.
If the finishing is carried out with elements specially designed for this, then detailed installation instructions are usually attached to the kit, following which you can cope with the work without special knowledge and training. For example, if you do not know how to clad windows with siding, ask the seller for an installation diagram or look for recommendations on the website of a particular manufacturer.

Below we will talk about how to make window cladding yourself using the most common materials - plaster, drywall and plastic sandwich panels.

Slope plaster

This finishing option is attractive primarily for its low cost and durability. For work, only a dry mortar diluted with water is required.
So:

• The work begins with a rough leveling of the surface by cutting off the influx of concrete in the corners, after which it is cleaned of dirt and dust;
• The gaps between the wall and the double-glazed window are filled with mounting foam or tow soaked in gypsum solution. At the same time, it is necessary to leave a gap around the perimeter of the window box, which will be filled with a solution;
• When these materials dry, you can go directly to the plaster;

Note. Before cladding a window, it is necessary to plaster and level the wall around it.

• Plastering begins by filling the gap around the box with mortar. When it dries a little, the mixture is applied from the bottom up to the entire plane of the slope and leveled with a trowel;
• If it is necessary to apply a thick layer of plaster for leveling, the work is done in several stages, applying a layer of no more than 5-7 mm at a time and letting it dry;
• It is desirable that the slopes are not perpendicular to the plane of the glazing, but slightly turned outward for better light penetration. The turning angles on both sides must match.
  In order not to be mistaken and to make your work easier, beacons are installed along the frame, and a wooden rail is temporarily attached to the wall, controlling their verticality with a plumb line. Their faces will be guidelines for alignment;

• In the same way, the upper slope is trimmed, fixing the beacon and the rail horizontally with a level check;
• After the solution dries, the slats are removed and the angle between the wall and the slope is removed;
• The final stage is grouting the surface with a finishing putty. After that, the slopes can be painted.

In this way, both internal and external decoration is performed. But for external slopes, it is better to take a special frost-resistant plaster, which is more resistant to the difficult climatic features of our country.

Installation of plastic slopes

Most often, people ask the question - how to make window cladding with sandwich panels? This is a material in which foamed polystyrene is located between the two outer layers of plastic - an excellent heat-insulating material that protects the window opening from moisture penetration and increases its soundproofing characteristics.
The main advantage of plastic sandwich panels, in addition to those already mentioned, is the finished appearance - after the installation is completed, the slopes do not need additional finishing. And the use of special profiles facilitates installation and allows you to make the joints as accurately as possible.
As a rule, such slopes are installed when replacing a double-glazed window by the installers themselves, but this work is paid separately. You can save money by doing it yourself.
To do this, just watch the video, study the diagram below and follow our recommendations.
Sequence of work:

• After measurements, strips of the required height and width are cut from the slab;
• The inner edge of the strip is wound behind the window frame, after which the space between the wall and the future slope is filled with foam. When expanding, it will firmly press the panel against the window block;
• A leveling rail is attached to the outer part of the opening, which determines the slope angle;

• The panel is glued to the slope with liquid nails and snapped onto the rail using a special profile. Or, if a large gap remains between the panel and the slope wall, it is filled with heat-insulating material;
• The joint between the wall and the sandwich panel is closed with a decorative plastic corner, and the joints between adjacent panels are filled with a color-matched sealant.

Drywall slopes

For the manufacture of slopes, it is best to use moisture-resistant drywall, resistant to natural moisture that occurs due to condensation on the windows. If you took a regular one, it is advisable to coat it with a primer several times.
Facing window openings with drywall differs little from the installation of plastic panels:

• The main difference is the installation of an L-shaped plastic profile along the perimeter of the frame, into which the plasterboard strips are inserted with their inner edge. Before this, an acrylic sealant is applied to the profile;
• The distance between the wall and the drywall strip is laid with a heater;
• A layer of glue is applied to a narrow section of the wall closer to the outer edge and, using a level, the outer edge of the material is pressed down, achieving its vertical position;
• After installing all the elements, the seams between them, as well as the joints with the wall, are puttied in accordance with the rules adopted for working with drywall;
• The final stage is finishing putty and painting.

As you can see, everything is quite simple. The main thing is accurate measurements and constant level control. Vertical for the side slopes and horizontal for the top.

Conclusion

It is the small details that make it possible to judge the quality of the repair, and it is they that create the finished look of the interior. Knowing how the material is selected and how plastic window cladding is made, you will avoid many mistakes and save time and money.
Even if you don’t do it yourself, competent control of performers often helps to detect marriage and non-compliance with technology in time, which can subsequently lead to unpleasant consequences and additional costs.