Perennial onions, which vegetable growers grow to produce greens, are interesting for their characteristics. All varieties and varieties of perennial onions tolerate winter well, grow early, and with the right agricultural technology they delight with their feathers from spring to late autumn.

All types of perennial onion varieties are bred by seeds. Despite the fact that onions reproduce by dividing the bush, it is recommended to regularly renew perennials by sowing nigella into the ground. This allows you to obtain stable yields of green feathers and prevent the development of fungal and bacterial diseases that affect plants growing in one place for a long time.

What varieties and varieties are known?

Perennial onions are represented by such species as batun, slime, chives and multi-tiered onions. All of them grow in the wild in different parts of the world. Breeding work has made it possible to obtain onion varieties that are superior to wild relatives in taste, feather length, yield, resistance to changes in temperature and lack of moisture.

Important: The description given by the manufacturer on the packaging of onion seeds allows you to find out the characteristics of the crop. When purchasing onion seeds, you need to pay attention to the characteristics.

This could be April 12 - an early variety that opens the garden season. Bushes 2 years old produce the first green feathers after the snow melts from the garden. This variety does not tolerate drought well and quickly goes dormant.

It is being replaced by the Maysky variety, which bears fruit until mid-June. Russian Winter Batun competes with these varieties. It forms powerful bushes and is resistant to bacterial infections.

To ensure that green feathers are always on the table, batun seeds are sown 2 times a year, using Parade, Welsh or Performer hybrids for planting. Growing batun as an annual crop makes it possible to provide the family with greens until the end of the summer season. Nigella batuna, sown in the ground in early spring and then in early June, produces a harvest of young onions from mid-July until the first snow.

Important: Hybrids are not adapted to Russian frosts, and plantings freeze out in winter.

If you want to leave a few bushes in the garden in order to get early onions in the spring, then for sowing use the Russian size variety, which produces a powerful feather up to 35 cm long 1.5 months after sowing the seeds.

The Legionnaire and Green Banner varieties, resistant to fungal infections, are recommended for cultivation on an industrial scale. These types of batun produce branched succulent feathers 45 days after sowing the seeds in the ground.

In addition to trumpet, other types of perennial onions are grown to produce greens. This can be a multi-tiered bow. This variety of perennial crop attracts many farmers due to its unique method of propagation using aerial bulbs. The culture produces a fragrant feather that can be cut several times during the season.

Breeders offer 3 varieties of multi-tiered onions. The Chelyabinsk variety is suitable for cultivation in areas equated to the Far North.

In the southern regions, the Memory onion is planted, forming a huge mass of green feathers.

In the central regions of the Russian Federation, the Likova variety has performed well; it easily tolerates spring frosts, expelling the first feather 21 days after the soil thaws.

Chives and slime are less often planted in plots, despite the fact that these types of perennial onions have juicy, aromatic early greens.

Schnitt produces a thin round feather, which, with proper agricultural practices, can grow back several times during the season. You can plant one of the varieties on the site, and it will grow beautifully in the bed allocated for it.

The slime forms a bush, increasing in size every year, forming a hummock. On sale you can find slime with names such as Leader, Broadleaf, Vavilovsky.

The feather of the slime is flat, juicy, containing a large amount of mucus, which is why the culture received its name. Leaves grow continuously until drought occurs. As the temperature rises, the bulbs go dormant for a short time. At the end of August, the bushes begin to produce green feathers with renewed vigor.

If you equip a garden bed with different types of perennial onions, this will allow you to obtain green feather harvests throughout the summer season.

The photo below shows a variety of varieties of perennial onions, which will allow you to choose suitable perennial crops.

How to grow onions from seeds

The appropriate time to plant perennial onions with seeds in open ground is considered to be late autumn or early spring. Sowing done in the frozen soil of a pre-prepared bed is good because it allows the seeds to become saturated with moisture in early spring and germinate at a time suitable for the plant. This makes it possible to get an early harvest of young onions 2 weeks earlier compared to spring sowing.

Spring sowing has its advantages. When planted in early spring, a higher percentage of seeds germinate. Onion beds are less overgrown with weeds. With this type of sowing, the soil is looser and the plants develop better.

When choosing a way to grow perennial onions from seeds, you need to pay attention to the climate. In the southern regions, where spring begins early, the soil quickly loses moisture; sowing seeds in early spring is more suitable.

Where winters are snowy, and snow melting continues until the end of April, frosts continue until mid-June. Batun can be planted in the ground before winter.

Important: Perennial onions should be planted with seeds in well-fertilized soil. A perennial will grow well only if it receives adequate nutrition.

How to care for perennial plantings

Growing and caring for perennial onions requires compliance with the rules of agricultural technology.

Perennial onions grown for greens require abundant watering and repeated foliar feeding, which is done after the grown crop is cut.

To improve nutrition, onion beds are watered with green fertilizer made from an infusion of nettle leaves, midge, burdock and other weeds. Perennial onions grow well in one place for several years if in early spring, when the ground is frozen, the beds are sprinkled with either complex onion fertilizer or nitrogen.

Water perennials as the soil dries out. The root system of the bulbs is long, and the onions do not need abundant watering. Loosening the soil and weeding is carried out after each watering. This allows you to both grow large, succulent feathers and maintain healthy and strong plantings.

Important: If perennials are not taken care of, bacterial diseases begin to affect the root system, which completely destroy adult bushes.

Bushes of 2 years of life form peduncles, which should be removed in a timely manner so that the bulb does not waste its energy in vain on growing unnecessary seeds. Part of the flower stalks can be left for nigella to ripen if the variety has been planted. Hybrids produce empty seeds.

Multi-tiered onions require special attention, as they can grow a large number of bulbs over a season. They need to be removed from plants without waiting for the small bulbs to touch the ground and begin to take root. This leads to thickened plantings and depletion of the soil in the bed.

The collected seeds of multi-tiered onions are planted on a prepared bed in early August, which allows you to get a harvest of greenery in early September.

For the winter, onion beds are covered in those areas where winters have little snow and night temperatures reach -25C. The plantings are covered with dry grass, corn grass, reeds or covering material. The shelter is removed after the snow melts. They do this carefully, because green leaves of young onions are found under the harvested grass. The vacated beds are carefully loosened with a rake, trying to destroy the top dense layer that prevents the seedlings from breathing.

In areas where there is a lot of snow, perennial onions overwinter under snow cover and thrive.

It’s no secret that ground vegetables are tastier and healthier than greenhouse vegetables, which is why spring gifts from the garden are so desirable. And the first among them are perennial onions. Of course, we paid attention to them before. But it’s unlikely that anyone in their garden has any kind of complete collection. That’s why we decided to talk in detail about perennial onions.

The genus Allium (onion) includes half a million species, but only two hundred of them grow in Russia. Almost all of them have high nutritional, medicinal and decorative properties, but, unfortunately, they mainly grow garlic, onions, leeks and shallots. And batun, chives, slime, fragrant, multi-tiered, oblique, and wild garlic are rarely seen among gardeners.

Perennial onions are rich in essential amino acids and vitamins, have a great effect on metabolism and immunity, their essential oils stimulate appetite and improve digestion. And everyone knows about the volatile substances phytoncides with strong bactericidal properties.

Leek

Perennial onions have other advantages: simple agricultural technology, winter and frost resistance (withstand temperatures down to minus 40°), resistance to diseases and pests, and a good harvest for 3-5 years even with repeated cutting.

Unlike onions, perennial onions form a false bulb, which, under favorable conditions, continuously produces leaves. And since the dormant period is short, they are suitable for growing in protected ground or room.

An area outside the main crop rotation is allocated for perennial onions - it will be used for 5-6 years. It’s good if the onion corner is not flooded with water in the fall and spring. The roots of this plant are string-shaped and lie at a depth of 20-30 cm, so the soil must be very fertile, light in texture, neutral or slightly acidic (pH = 6-7), without rhizomatous and root-bearing weeds. If horsetail or horse sorrel grows on the site, liming is first necessary.

The soil is prepared in the same way as for onions: in the fall, manure, humus or compost (10 kg per sq. m) and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are added for digging, and nitrogen fertilizers are added under the rake in the spring.

Perennial onions are propagated by divisions or sown. The seeds are small, especially those of chives, and the germination rate is low. It is better to sow fresh ones, but if they have lain down (germination rate is below 80%), then the seeding rate should be increased. Before sowing, they must be disinfected.

Depending on the type of soil, the seeds are placed on a flat surface, ridges or ridges; the last two methods are useful in lowlands and on cold ground. They are sown in open ground in April-May and must be mulched with peat or humus (0.5-1 kg per sq.m.). Seedlings and cuttings are planted in the spring and summer.

Shallot

In the second and subsequent years, regular fertilizing is necessary (in early spring and after each cutting of leaves - 10 g per square meter of potassium and nitrogen fertilizers and 15 g of phosphorus fertilizers). In the first year, a plant with one to three branches is formed, and the next year the same number of flower shoots with spherical inflorescences appear.

At the end of April - beginning of May, chives, batun and multi-tiered trees grow earlier than others, later - slime and fragrant. Therefore, by planting a set of perennial onions, you can create a green conveyor belt.

To get greenery in winter, 3-4 year old planting material is selected in the fall and dug up. Place in boxes, sprinkle with earth or peat and store at a temperature of 0 - plus 2° until planting.

Chives(resin, skoroda) are valued for their decorative properties, high vitamin C content in early spring and good winter hardiness (does not freeze even in the Far North). It has fist-shaped, hollow, awl-shaped, green leaves with a waxy coating up to 40 cm long. The plants grow strongly and produce a powerful bush in the fourth year. Flower arrows are straight, thin, slightly longer than the leaves. They bear small spherical inflorescences with flowers of various colors: from white to lilac-violet.

This bow has two varieties: Central Russian(it bushes strongly, leaves quickly grow up to 25 cm, but also quickly become coarse) and Siberian(leaves are larger, up to 40 cm long, grow more slowly and later, but persist for up to two months). In our country Honey plant and Nemal are zoned everywhere, and Bohemia and Crocus grow better in areas with mild winters.

Honey plant is a mid-early variety. Its plants grow dark green, semi-sharp leaves in spring. They can be harvested for a long time, the yield is 1.7-2.5 kg/sq.m.

Astrakhan tomatoes ripen remarkably well lying on the ground, but this experience should not be repeated in the Moscow region. Our tomatoes need support, support, garter. My neighbors use all sorts of stakes, tie-downs, loops, ready-made plant supports and mesh fencing. Each method of fixing a plant in a vertical position has its own advantages and “side effects”. I'll tell you how I place tomato bushes on trellises and what comes out of it.

Flies are a sign of unsanitary conditions and carriers of infectious diseases that are dangerous to both people and animals. People are constantly looking for ways to get rid of unpleasant insects. In this article we will talk about the Zlobny TED brand, which specializes in fly repellents and knows a lot about them. The manufacturer has developed a specialized line of products to get rid of flying insects anywhere quickly, safely and at no extra cost.

The summer months are the time for hydrangeas to bloom. This beautiful deciduous shrub produces luxuriously fragrant flowers from June to September. Florists readily use large inflorescences for wedding decorations and bouquets. To admire the beauty of a flowering hydrangea bush in your garden, you should take care of the proper conditions for it. Unfortunately, some hydrangeas do not bloom year after year, despite the care and efforts of gardeners. We will explain why this happens in the article.

Every summer resident knows that plants need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium for full development. These are three main macronutrients, the deficiency of which significantly affects the appearance and yield of plants, and in advanced cases can lead to their death. But not everyone understands the importance of other macro- and microelements for plant health. And they are important not only in themselves, but also for the effective absorption of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, are one of the early aromatic berries that summer generously gifts us with. How happy we are about this harvest! In order for the “berry boom” to repeat every year, we need to take care of the berry bushes in the summer (after the end of fruiting). The laying of flower buds, from which ovaries will form in the spring and berries in the summer, begins approximately 30 days after the end of fruiting.

Spicy pickled watermelon is a savory appetizer for fatty meat. Watermelons and watermelon rinds have been pickled since time immemorial, but this process is labor-intensive and time-consuming. According to my recipe, you can simply prepare pickled watermelon in 10 minutes, and by the evening the spicy appetizer will be ready. Watermelon marinated with spices and chili can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Be sure to keep the jar in the refrigerator, not only for the sake of safety - when chilled, this snack is simply licking your fingers!

Among the variety of species and hybrids of philodendrons, there are many plants, both gigantic and compact. But not a single species competes in unpretentiousness with the main modest one - the blushing philodendron. True, his modesty does not concern the appearance of the plant. Blushing stems and cuttings, huge leaves, long shoots, forming, although very large, but also a strikingly elegant silhouette, look very elegant. Philodendron blushing requires only one thing - at least minimal care.

Thick chickpea soup with vegetables and egg is a simple recipe for a hearty first course, inspired by oriental cuisine. Similar thick soups are prepared in India, Morocco, and Southeast Asian countries. The tone is set by spices and seasonings - garlic, chili, ginger and a bouquet of spicy spices, which can be assembled to your taste. It is better to fry vegetables and spices in clarified butter (ghee) or mix olive and butter in a pan; this, of course, is not the same, but it tastes similar.

Plum - well, who isn’t familiar with it?! She is loved by many gardeners. And all because it has an impressive list of varieties, surprises with excellent yields, pleases with its diversity in terms of ripening and a huge selection of color, shape and taste of fruits. Yes, in some places it feels better, in others it feels worse, but almost no summer resident gives up the pleasure of growing it on his plot. Today it can be found not only in the south, in the middle zone, but also in the Urals and Siberia.

Many ornamental and fruit crops, except drought-resistant ones, suffer from the scorching sun, and conifers in the winter-spring period suffer from sunlight, enhanced by reflection from the snow. In this article we will tell you about a unique preparation for protecting plants from sunburn and drought - Sunshet Agrosuccess. The problem is relevant for most regions of Russia. In February and early March, the sun's rays become more active, and the plants are not yet ready for new conditions.

“Every vegetable has its own time,” and every plant has its own optimal time for planting. Anyone who has dealt with planting is well aware that the hot season for planting is spring and autumn. This is due to several factors: in the spring the plants have not yet begun to grow rapidly, there is no sweltering heat and precipitation often falls. However, no matter how hard we try, circumstances often develop such that planting has to be carried out in the midst of summer.

Chili con carne translated from Spanish means chili with meat. This is a Texas and Mexican dish whose main ingredients are chili peppers and shredded beef. In addition to the main products there are onions, carrots, tomatoes, and beans. This red lentil chili recipe is delicious! The dish is fiery, scalding, very filling and amazingly tasty! You can make a big pot, put it in containers and freeze - you'll have a delicious dinner for a whole week.

Cucumber is one of the most favorite garden crops of our summer residents. However, not all and not always gardeners manage to get a really good harvest. And although growing cucumbers requires regular attention and care, there is a little secret that will significantly increase their yield. We are talking about pinching cucumbers. Why, how and when to pinch cucumbers, we will tell you in the article. An important point in the agricultural technology of cucumbers is their formation, or type of growth.

Now every gardener has the opportunity to grow absolutely environmentally friendly, healthy fruits and vegetables in their own garden. Atlant microbiological fertilizer will help with this. It contains helper bacteria that settle in the root system area and begin to work for the benefit of the plant, allowing it to actively grow, remain healthy and produce high yields. Typically, many microorganisms coexist around the root system of plants.

Summer is associated with beautiful flowers. Both in the garden and in the rooms you want to admire the luxurious inflorescences and touching flowers. And for this it is not at all necessary to use cut bouquets. The assortment of the best indoor plants includes many beautifully flowering species. In the summer, when they receive the brightest lighting and optimal daylight hours, they can outshine any bouquet. Short-lived or just annual crops also look like living bouquets.

How to grow perennial onion

ONION-BATUN

Perennial bows– productive, unpretentious, winter-hardy, ubiquitous.
Perennial onions include:
Onion
Chives
Slime Bow
Sweet onion

This article is dedicated to Onion-batun.

General description

Perennial. It can be grown in one place for up to 5 years. And then divide the overgrown onion clumps (bushes) and plant them. Thus, multiplying your onion plots. Or you can simply sow new seeds.

Onion is also called Tatarka, winter, sandy, piped.
This is perhaps the most common type of perennial onion.
He comes from Eastern Siberia and China.

Its leaves are long, green, hollow, like those of ordinary onions, only wider. They taste juicy and spicy. And they contain 2 times more vitamin C than onions.

Onions are used only for greens, because their turnips are very small, the so-called “false”. By the way, you can also eat it, it’s juicy and tasty))

Agricultural technology

Onion is propagated by seeds or by dividing the bush.

On my plot, I grew my first onion from a purchased bag of seeds.
One bag was enough for me to plant a whole bed of onions 3 m long and 0.75 m wide.

The seeds were sown in the spring at the beginning of May (Yaroslavl region) to a depth of 1 cm.
Since I sowed them densely, I had to thin out the seedlings when they reached a height of 15 cm. I left a distance between seedlings of 10-15 cm. The pulled out spring onion, of course, was used for food.

Over the years, the remaining plants branched and grew, forming beautiful lush bushes. I transplanted them into a specially designated bed near young garden trees at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other to give the onions more light and space.

I set aside a sunny place for the onion. This is not even a garden bed, but simply rows on an area with a flat soil surface.
The distance between bushes in a row is about 30-40 cm, and between rows - 60 cm.

I weed, water, loosen as necessary. I feed them, which will be discussed below.

Bloom

Onion is considered an excellent honey plant and blooms very beautifully. Of course it's a matter of taste, but I like it. These are large spherical flowers, slightly rising above the onion bushes and attracting an incredible number of bees, bumblebees and butterflies.

At the peak of flowering, it’s even scary to walk past the onion bushes, there are so many bees and bumblebees buzzing around them. And how many butterflies fly in! Here, by the way, there is a small collection of photographs in which I captured one of these “invasions.” Look, it's interesting))

Here (Yaroslavl region) flowering begins in the second half of June and lasts about two weeks. Although, of course, the period and length of flowering is influenced by the weather.

Propagation by seeds

Onion produces seeds that have time to fully ripen right on the bush around the end of July.
It’s easy to check how ripe the seeds are. It is enough to take the peduncle by the stem and shake it slightly. And if the seeds easily spill out of their pods onto the palm of your hand, it means they are ripe.

The seeds are dry, small, about the size of a match head, black in color, and have ribs.

The seeds can be collected and immediately sown in another place to obtain young onion plants.

I don’t collect seeds, but let them sow themselves around the bushes. My bed with onions is well-groomed, there are no weeds, so I can afford such self-seeding. At the end of July - beginning of August, the seeds germinate splendidly and begin to grow.
In a well-kept garden bed, no weeds interfere with the development of young string shoots. They also have enough sun and moisture.

Young sprouts go away before winter, overwinter well under the snow, and in the spring they form young bushes, which I plant (if I need to) or distribute to neighbors.
If you didn’t have time to replant in early spring, you can postpone this procedure until August.

Onion - as an annual or biennial crop

Sometimes I grow spring onions as an annual, and sometimes as a biennial.

Onion - like an annual.
In spring (late April - early May), sow seeds in prepared soil.
In September, collect juicy green onions directly from the false bulbs, which are not very large and very tasty (the roots are cut off from them).

Onion - like a biennial.
In the 1st year, at the end of July - beginning of August, sow the collected seeds in the prepared soil and allow them to germinate and get stronger before the onset of winter.
And in the 2nd year, from July to September, you can harvest fresh herbs for food, tearing the onion out of the ground right along with the bulb.

This method of growing onions (biennial or annual) is very convenient, because in the fall fresh green onions can no longer be collected either from perennial onions or from onions.

Frost resistance and cold resistance

Onion is frost-resistant. In the literature they write that it can withstand thirty-degree frosts. From my own observations, I will say that when in November 2009 frosts hit -35o and lasted for a whole week, and there was no snow at all, the onion (and the bed with it was without shelter) survived these frosts perfectly and in the spring, like no other never before, I was pleased with the greenery. Under the snow, spring onions will not be afraid of frosts even at -40 degrees. We had such frosts in January 2006 and lasted for a week.

In the spring, spring onions sprout very early, as soon as the ground thaws, and in some places there is still snow. Spring return frosts and falling snow are not at all terrible for its seedlings. Young seedlings can withstand spring frosts on soil down to -7 degrees without any shelter.

Drought resistance

Onion is moisture-loving. Therefore, on dry days it should be watered, preferably every day. Of course, onions will survive drought without watering. It just won't produce a lot of juicy leaves. And what will be on the bush will not be suitable for food at all. The leaf will be dry, hard, fibrous and tasteless. The resulting seeds will not germinate well. An example of this is the abnormally dry summer of 2010, when there was not enough water for all garden crops. And the onion had to rely on its own strength. This affected the harvest, but not the onion plot as a whole. By the way, in September 2010, when the rains came, the onion responded and pleased us with juicy greens in October.

Feeding

I periodically feed onion bushes with wood ash. During the summer I give at least two feedings. Or better yet, three.
The first is in early spring, when leaves are just beginning to grow.
The second - in a couple of weeks.
The third feeding is somewhere in August - September, when the onion has already dropped its seeds.

I sprinkle ash directly under the bushes and on them. How many? It's hard to say. I simply dust the bushes and the soil around them generously with ash. Onions are generally responsive to ash and are not afraid of the “power” of this natural mineral fertilizer. In addition, ash is a good preventive measure against diseases and pests.
I also throw a scoop of compost under the bushes (once a season, I don’t have enough for more).

Previously, I mulched the beds (covered the ground around the bushes with sawdust and mowed grass). This technique retains moisture in the soil and provides additional nutrition to the plant. But recently I have given up mulching the beds with onions because of the laboriousness of this process and keep them under black fallow, that is, I loosen and weed them.

Harvesting and preparing for winter

I harvest, that is, I cut off the leaves starting in May and throughout the summer as needed.
I pick off leaves that are more than 20 cm long at their very base.
I try to pick one leaf from each “branch” (i.e. false bulb).
Before doing this, I look at how many leaves there are on the “branch”. If it’s one or two, then I don’t touch this “branch” at all. I only pick from those “branches” that have three or more leaves.

I don’t completely cut off the bushes (and they consist of several “branches,” i.e., false bulbs)! I’ll take five leaves from one bush, then go to another. The next day I collect leaves from other bushes. And so on in a circle.

It seems to me that this type of harvest is easier for onions to withstand. He will have enough strength to restore his green mass.

The collected leaf goes into salads, soups, or is eaten straight away - dipped in salt and served with black bread and potatoes. Yummy-looking!

In the fall (from the second half of September) I stop collecting leaves. If autumn has dragged on and the weather has been warm for a long time, then in October I stop collecting leaves.

Remaining leaves from onion bushes NOT I remove them, although experts advise doing this in order to avoid the spread of diseases and pests and so that in the spring the old leaf does not retard the growth of new ones.
But my onion bushes go into winter with leaves. It seems to me that it’s easier for him to spend the winter in our area. Nutrients are completely transferred from the leaf to the false bulb, thereby giving it additional strength. Although maybe I'm wrong. But I haven’t seen any negative results from my approach yet.
In the spring, I remove last year’s dried leaves directly with my hands (they are easily removed from the bushes) or carefully sweep them away with a rake. There are times when I forget about them))

Mice protection

As a frost-resistant crop, onion does not require shelter. But if there are mice robbing the area, who like to feast on false onion bulbs, making their way to them right under the snow, then you need to take care of shelter.

At one time there were a lot of mice in our garden, and every spring I found the onion bushes eaten away by 80% or more. The bushes, of course, recovered during the summer. But the yield was not as great as we would like.
Therefore, we had to resort to the following methods:

Method 1.
During the first autumn frosts, I covered the onion with a thick layer of spruce branches (spruce branches). From above, the spruce branches were pressed to the ground with boards and bricks so that mice could not crawl to the onion-butter under the branches.

But this is a somewhat labor-intensive method. It can be made simpler:

Method 2.
For this you need old pots and buckets without bottoms. I placed them directly on the bush with the narrow part down so that the bush was in the middle of the pot or bucket. This is an excellent barrier against mice. The bushes remained completely intact.

Lately I haven’t been covering my onions with anything because I haven’t seen any mice infestation.

Diseases and pests

Onions are almost not affected by pests and diseases with proper agricultural practices.
But, nevertheless, he can get sick or suffer from pests.

* Onion moth (pest)
I personally encountered onion moth in the first year of growing onions. But she defeated her quite quickly.
Signs of onion moth - onion leaves are eaten away from the inside so that only a thin skin remains on top. If you cut such a leaf lengthwise and open it, you will find a small (no more than 1 cm) light green caterpillar inside.
By the way, this caterpillar affects not only onions, but also all types of onions.
Control measures.
Experts recommend that at the first signs of damage, spray with a solution against pests (insecticide) of contact action, for example, Fufanon or Karbafos. True, in this case, onions for greens will not be eaten. So this should be resorted to in the most extreme cases, if there is too much of a pest and it threatens the life of the plant. Although in this case, in my opinion, it makes sense to simply remove the affected plant and grow a new one from seeds.
Of course, correct agricultural technology helps against onion moth (and other pests) - loosening the soil, destroying affected leaves. I used exactly this method and folk remedies for struggle and prevention, you will read about this below.

* Onion weevil (pest).
Signs: light dots and prickles on onion leaves. They are left by the beetle itself, 2-2.7 mm long.
The leaves are gnawed through passages, then the leaves turn yellow and die. This is already a weevil larva - yellow, legless, bent, up to 7 mm long.
Control measures are agrotechnical: loosening the soil, removing and destroying damaged leaves, and, of course, folk methods of control described below.

* Downy mildew (disease).
Signs: gray-violet mold appears on the leaves, the leaves turn pale and, starting from the tips, die. The bulb itself stops growing and becomes a little soft, although outwardly it does not differ from a healthy one.
This disease can especially affect onions in damp and cool summers, with thickened plantings. The infection is introduced by wind, rain, the gardener himself, and also through infected planting material.
Control measures - spray with a solution against diseases, for example, copper kuparos (100-200 grams per bucket) or “HOM”. Repeat the procedure 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days. But in this case, it will no longer be possible to use onions for greens this year! Only to save the plants themselves. However, I repeat that if the disease spreads strongly, it would be better to simply dig up the diseased onion and sow a new one in another place.
Of course, proper care of onions (agricultural technology) and dusting onions with wood ash will help prevent this unpleasant disease.

I didn’t use chemicals on my spring onions, because I really want to eat them here and now right from the garden))
The lesions, for example, from the onion moth on my onions were not very strong, so I simply removed the leaves damaged by the moth.
And although it is believed that it is impossible to prevent the appearance of, say, moth, it seems to me that if you take good care of the bed where onions grow, you don’t have to worry about the appearance of onion moth and other pests.

There are a number Folk ways, which are good prevention against the appearance of many pests and diseases on onions. Here are some of them that I tried myself and was pleased with the effect:

1. Pour a strong solution of mustard powder directly over the leaves. Concentration doesn't matter - the more, the better. Mustard will not harm onions)) The onion moth, for example, does not like mustard watering.

2. Periodically water the onion (and all types of onions) with very cold water. I don’t remember where I read this recommendation as a preventive measure against onion pests. But I used this method because of its simplicity and accessibility. Our water is well water, ice cold. So I gave my bow such a “hardening” shower several times in May-July. I don’t know about pests, but I noticed that the onion greens became especially juicy and green))

3. Water with salt solution (2-3 times per season). Dissolve 1 cup of salt in a bucket of water and pour over. Sometimes I've done this by simply sprinkling the beds with coarse rock salt (available at grocery stores) before watering or before it rains. I sprinkled it by eye, but it turned out to be about 1 glass of salt per 1 m2 of bed. The salt solution is also very good at combating a very unpleasant onion pest - the onion fly, which loves to attack onions.

4. I feed the onions with ash. I have already written above in the “Feeding” section how I do this. Ash is not only a source of minerals for onions, but also an excellent preventive measure against diseases and pests. The leaf becomes too tough for pests, and the plant is healthy.

5. Sometimes I water the onions directly over the greens with an infusion of potato tops, tomatoes, onion peels and garlic. Such infusions do not destroy pests, but are a good preventive measure, as they repel them. Therefore, you can start using such infusions in early spring, when pests appear after wintering and are looking for somewhere to “settle”.

6. Don't overuse manure! Why? Because you need to be confident in its quality. Otherwise, and oddly enough, poorly rotted manure can be a source of diseases and pests! And onions overfed with manure generally begin to grow poorly, and their leaves droop for no apparent reason. Therefore, if you are not sure about the quality of manure, then it is better to refrain. There can be much more harm, and not only for onions, but for the entire garden in general.

I periodically and selectively perform points 1 to 6 on my onions during the summer and do not observe any pests or diseases on them. I really hope that this will continue))

I did not talk about all pests and diseases. But in general, with good agricultural technology - do not thicken the plantings, loosen the soil, weed the weeds, feed with ash and potash fertilizers, destroy damaged leaves and plants, remove plant debris in a timely manner - all this will help prevent the appearance of pests and diseases or at least reduce their spread.

Conclusion

Don’t have onions on your property yet? I highly recommend getting one as soon as possible. You won't regret it!

Grown as a perennial, onion will provide you with delicious, juicy, vitamin-rich greens in early spring and throughout the summer. And grown as an annual or biennial, spring onions will provide delicious greens in the fall.

Total benefit and not much hassle))

Katerina Shlykova,
amateur gardener since 2003

Quoting and partial copying articles and stories, possibly indicating the source in the form Active link to the corresponding page of the site.

When to divide and replant garden perennials - domfloris. ru

Perennial flowers do not require annual planting; they grow in one place for two to several years, and do not require special care. If plants grow greatly over time, lose their decorative properties, and flowering weakens every year, we will try to rejuvenate the perennials by dividing and then replanting.

This method makes it possible to expand and increase the collection of garden and ornamental crops.

Each plant has a certain lifespan in one place, after which it must be renewed, divided, or replanted.

Juveniles that divide every 2-3 years. These flowers include primroses, hybrid pyrethrum, grandiflora and lanceolate coreopsis, pinnate carnation, horned violet...

It is preferable to divide and plant primroses every 2-3 years, adding fresh nutrient soil annually - due to the elevation of the bush above the garden bed. The rhizome of primroses grows obliquely upward, which is why the old bushes seem to rise above the ground, therefore, normal rooting of young rhizomes and proper development and flowering do not occur.

Garden iris, butterfly violets, white lilies are perennials that like to constantly change their place of residence. If they are not replanted every 3-4 years, the formation of flower buds decreases, and then the plant stops blooming altogether.

Hostas, goldenrods, phlox, astilbe, herbaceous peonies, cultivated delphiniums - do not need frequent replanting, can grow in one place for more than five years, and division ahead of schedule is often carried out to obtain planting material.

How to determine the time of dividing and replanting perennial plants?

Overwintering perennials are divided and replanted in early spring, in April - early May, or in the second half of summer, August-September, so that they have time to take root well by winter.

This takes into account the growing season of a given crop. With early spring flowering of perennials before the beginning of summer, it is better to replant in the fall. And vice versa, it is better to divide those that bloom in the fall in the spring. Some types of perennial plants are best left undisturbed in the spring (for example, irises and peonies).

Early flowering bulbs are planted from the first ten days of September until the second half of October. Among the primroses in the fall, you can safely plant primroses and anemones.

In the autumn, gardeners have more time, provided the weather is warm, to take care of perennials: plant them, decorate borders, flower beds, and garden paths with them.

When starting work, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions and the place where crops are planted. We divide the bushes in dry weather, about a month before frost begins; the air temperature should not be lower than +10-12°C. Plants must have time to adapt their root systems to frost.

The propagation technique of perennials by division is influenced by the structure of the root system.

When digging up a plant, use a pitchfork or shovel to determine what kind of root it has.

The following have an extensive fibrous system of roots located on the soil surface: peritrum, cornflower, violets, rudbeckia, and mallow. In the flower garden they stay together, compactly, they are easy to separate and plant in a new place. The more often we replant, the larger the flowers.

We separate young, healthy plants from the mother bush from the end of August and continue until mid-October, so that there are 2-3 weeks left before permanent frosts. If the plants are not replanted, then after 3-5 years, the middle of the bush (with old plants) will begin to dry out and lose their decorative effect.

Division of rhizomatous perennials - peonies, irises, phlox...

Many perennial crops living in our garden have powerful rhizomes - modified underground shoots in which nutrients are deposited.

Over the course of a year, such perennials form many vertical shoots. The stem part becomes so strong (woody) that it is quite difficult to divide the plant. Vigorous growth leads to crowding, and plants stop developing and blooming properly.

Representatives of rhizomatous perennials: astilbe, herbaceous peony, bearded iris, perennial phlox, daylily, hosta, sedum, etc. They require replanting to a new place after 4-7 years, depending on the type of plant.

Horizontally growing rhizome - underground (perennial aster, mountain cornflower, kupena, meadowsweet, lily of the valley, monarda, mint, cornflower, aspenberry, rudbeckia, yarrow, etc.) or above-ground (garden iris, bergenia, doronicum).

Before digging, cut off the above-ground part. Using a shovel or a pitchfork, carefully remove the rhizome from the ground, cut them into several parts, having previously washed them from dirt so that you can see how best to divide them. We remove rotten areas and damaged parts, divide them so that 2-3 buds (eyes) remain and plant them.

In a plant such as lily of the valley, when dug up, the rhizome breaks up into separate fragments with buds, and in order to separate the peony, force must be applied. The separated, now independent, parts of the rhizome are planted in a new place.

Taproot perennials.

Throughout their lives, these plants retain the primary (main) root that appeared during seed germination, growing from year to year. Roots tend to become storage areas for nutrients.

Such plants tolerate replanting very poorly or not at all, since when digging, the most important branches in areas of the root system are inevitably cut off. Sometimes especially valuable and rare varieties are propagated by division.

Taproot perennials include aquilegia, elecampane, hybrid delphinium, beautiful dicentra, oriental poppy, multileaf lupine, etc.

Of all the methods of vegetative propagation, dividing and replanting perennials is the oldest and simplest method, which does not require a lot of time and effort. As a result, after a year you get several new ones from one perennial plant.

See popular articles on the topic...

Autumn planting of dayliliesPlanting and caring for peoniesPlanting and caring for lilies in autumn

Perennial onions species, cultivation. review of materials on the 7 dachas website

Perennial onions: types, cultivation. review of materials on the 7 dachas website

Slime Bow

Drooping onions, better known as slugs (Allium nutans), have a pleasant, mildly pungent taste. It appears in early spring, as soon as the snow melts, when there is no other greenery in sight. The bushes are squat, with wide, succulent leaves that do not become coarse until autumn. Greens can be completely cut off 3-4 times per season. The bushes produce a lot of shoots in the first four years, then the growth rate decreases. This means it’s time to replant the plant.

Perennial onion

Wild slime grows in Siberia and the mountainous regions of Central Asia. In recent years, slime has been grown as a garden crop. The plant is not capricious, unpretentious and does not require much attention. During flowering, the slime is very decorative.

Valued for its beneficial properties and high taste. It is used to prepare salads, make fillings for pies, use it as a seasoning in various dishes, and also salt and dry it for the winter. You can read more about this type of onion in the publication Drooping onion - “meek” slime.

Multi-tiered bow

Interesting, unusual, worthy of being grown in the garden - multi-tiered onions (Allium proliferum). It has many names: Egyptian, viviparous, horned, Canadian, walking. In the first year it looks like a trampoline, in the second year it produces a flower arrow, on which small aerial bulbs measuring 2-3 cm in diameter grow in 2-3 floors. They serve as planting material.

Instead of inflorescences, aerial bulbs are formed on multi-tiered onions

The underground bulbs are red-lilac in color, with thick juicy scales, collected in a nest of 3-5 pieces, like a shallot. Both aerial and underground bulbs have a pungent taste and pronounced aroma. Thanks to this property, multi-tiered onions are used in marinades, preservation, and as a spice for dishes. It should be noted that the bulbs can only be consumed in summer and autumn: they do not ripen and therefore are not preserved in winter; they germinate quickly.

You can find even more interesting and useful information about this wonderful representative of perennial onions in the article A true exotic of the onion family - multi-tiered onions. And in another publication dedicated to this plant (Multi-tiered onion “Odessa Winter 12”), our reader shares her experience of growing and breeding it.

Ramson onion

Ramson (Allium ursinum) or Kalba is found everywhere in the wild. The plant is characterized by garlicky taste and aroma. In appearance, wild garlic bears little resemblance to onions; it can easily be mistaken for lilies of the valley. Kalba is in great demand for its unusual taste and beneficial properties. It is used to prepare salads, as a seasoning for main courses, pickled, and salted. Wild wild garlic is collected in huge quantities, which leads to its disappearance: in many regions of Russia it is listed in the Red Book.

Ramson can easily be mistaken for lily of the valley

Rather than transferring a Red Book plant, it is better to plant it on a personal plot. Onions require little care and are not difficult to grow. On sale you can find seeds of two subspecies of wild garlic: bear onion and victory onion; they also reproduce vegetatively. The agricultural technology is simple - loosening the soil, watering in dry years, thinning out overgrown bushes.

Ramson is a very interesting plant, and there are many publications about it on our website. Here are the most interesting and useful of them:

Ramson: planting and care The very first vitamin: recipes with wild garlic

Oblique bow

Oblique bow(Allium obliquum) is also called uskun, mountain garlic. It is widespread in natural conditions, but is practically not found on the household plots of Russians. In appearance it resembles garlic: the leaves are the same flat, 2-2.5 cm wide, tapering, like garlic, towards the top, and also extend alternately and to the sides from the stem. The peduncle is like an onion - a multi-colored spherical inflorescence with yellow fragrant flowers that attracts bees with its aroma.

Uskun onion looks like garlic

The agricultural technology for growing uskun is the same as for other perennials. Onions are very early, the leaves quickly become hard and inedible. To keep the greens juicy and fresh, you need to cut them 2-3 times over the summer. Uskun is an excellent seasoning for meat dishes, and this onion can also be used in preservation instead of garlic.

fragrant onion

Sweet onion (Allium ramosum) or jusai is native to China. So far this representative finds few admirers among gardeners, which is a pity. Its lanceolate leaves remain tender and soft almost all summer. Their taste is pleasant, not at all spicy, with a subtle smell of garlic. It is not recommended to cut off the greens completely; it is advisable to tear off the outer leaves and leave 3-4 middle ones. The leaves become coarser during the bolting period, and fragrant onions bloom late, in August.

Jusai blooms very beautifully

It must be said that jusai blooms very beautifully: white star-shaped flowers are collected in a hemispherical loose umbrella. Such onions can be planted on an alpine hill, because in the wild they grow on hills and rocky slopes.

Chives

One of the most decorative perennial onions is chives (Allium schoenoprasum). It adapts perfectly to any natural conditions: it can grow in the harsh climate of the tundra, and feels great in the arid steppes of Central Asia. The tender tubular leaves of chives are a real storehouse of nutrients. They just need to be cut regularly, otherwise they become tough.

Chives are very decorative

Chives are grown for their early greenery, and more often for their white, purple, pink fluffy inflorescences. They blend well with many plants, and these onions make a wonderful living border for a flower bed. Schnitt is moisture-loving, agricultural technology comes down to abundant watering. You can read more about this decorative, healthy and tasty plant in the publication Delicate, handsome chives and its advantages.

Each of these types of perennial onions is worthy of growing in your garden.

Perennial onions are of particular value, but have not yet become widespread. They are unpretentious, frost-resistant, able to grow from under the snow and produce high-vitamin greens very early. In May and the first half of June, onion greens are the most valuable and cheapest source of vitamins.

Using different types, you can have nutritious onion greens all year round (using temporary film shelters and greenhouses). Perennial onion feathers can be obtained from early spring, when there are no vegetables in the open ground, until late autumn, when other garden crops have already been harvested. Perennial onions have a very short dormant period, so in late autumn and winter they can be driven out in protected ground.

It is advisable to use perennial onion plantations for cutting for no more than 4 years, after which a new plot must be established.

Batun is the most famous type of perennial onion, but I would advise growing it in an annual crop: sow it annually in a small area in the spring, and dig it up entirely in the spring of next year. With many years of use, the leaves of the batun quickly become coarser, and diseases (downy mildew) and pests accumulate at the cultivation site.

Photo: perennial onion

Planting perennial onions

For perennial onions, areas that are not flooded with melt water, well fertilized and illuminated are suitable. Ridges that are cleared of snow earlier in the spring and warm up well are suitable for planting.

It is better to sow seeds early in the spring, so that by autumn the plants are stronger and overwinter well. Next year they can be cut or dug up entirely. The seeds are sown across the ridges, the distance between the rows should be 25-30 cm. The seeds are buried 2-3 cm into the soil. Consumption rate: 2.5-3.0 g of seeds per 1 sq. m. m or 1 g per 1 linear meter.

Transplanting perennial onions

When transplanting perennial onions, old shoots can also be used to plant new plantations. To do this, plants are dug up and divided into branches. When transplanting, it is better to cut off the roots, leaving 8-10 cm. The shoots should be transplanted into well-watered grooves at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other.

Caring for perennial onions

Perennial onions do not require any special care. You just need to cut the greens on time and provide them with water and the necessary nutrition. Also, do not forget in the fall, when the leaves wither, clear the area of ​​plant debris and deeply loosen the rows.

Temporary film covers can be used on onion beds - this will speed up the regrowth of plants by 10-15 days. It is better to install the arcs in the fall, and in early April, while there is still snow, stretch the film over them. With such agricultural technology, green onions will be ready for consumption already on April 20-25.

Feeding perennial onions

In autumn, it is recommended to apply organic fertilizer (manure or compost) to the onion planting sites at the rate of 10-12 kg per 1 square meter. m. Among mineral fertilizers, superphosphate and potassium salt work well in the fall, the consumption rate is 20-30 g per 1 sq. m. m.

In the spring, as soon as the soil dries out, the onion beds are fed with mineral fertilizers: 20-30 g per 1 square meter. m of ammonium nitrate, potassium chloride and superphosphate.

Cutting perennial onions

During the summer, onions can be cut 3-4 times. Last time - no later than August 15-25. After each cutting, the plants need to be watered and fed. If the onion has not been cut and it begins to shoot, then the shoots must be cut off and thrown away, and the soil must be loosened. To speed up the growth of leaves, onions will require additional watering and fertilizing.

Collecting onion seeds

Leaves should not be cut off from plants left for seed. The inflorescences are collected when the top boxes begin to open. They are placed in gauze bags and hung to dry. After collecting the seeds, the arrows and leaves are cut off and removed from the site.