If your ceiling has obvious defects and you do not want to level it, or the humidity in the rooms is quite high, then it is worth installing modern suspended structures. They are of high quality, durability and aesthetic appearance.

The modern rack ceiling is quite diverse. It can be colored, using thin and wider stripes, metal or plastic. Previously, it was used in the bathroom and in the kitchen, and today it is used to decorate all other rooms with it.

In addition to the fact that the design panels are not afraid of moisture and dust and dirt do not accumulate on them, they also perfectly protect against extraneous noise and can last for decades.

A rack ceiling is a great way to hide pipes, wiring and other communications from prying eyes. Examples of various options and combinations can be seen in numerous photos.

In what directions can the slats be fixed?

Have you decided to make repairs with your own hands, including the ceiling? So you need to choose the type of panels, then in which direction they will be installed and correctly calculate the required amount of material.

Due to complex communication systems, material consumption can be high and strips may need to be adjusted. Bypassing the pipe when installing a plastic or aluminum structure is somewhat more difficult than when using a tension option.

There are several options for installing a rack ceiling. The most common is the installation of rails along the entire room. They are cut into long strips, 3-4 meters each. When installed across - shorter lengths are reinforced around the entire perimeter.

This is a good way to experiment with contrasting stripes and panels. The combination of panels is popular. They are laid both along and diagonally. Thanks to this, you can focus on a specific area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

How to calculate the number of rails

Before work, it is worth creating a detailed drawing. On it you can mark the attachment points. It will be necessary to calculate the perimeter, and then calculate the required number of panels on the rack ceiling.

For this you need:

1. Multiply the width of the ceiling by its length.
2. Then divide the resulting figure by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone rail indicated on the package. And get the required amount for work.

Please note that when mounting along and across the room, a different amount of material is used. Therefore, it is worth buying 3-4 slats more than the received calculations. Bypassing the pipe can also entail additional costs.

Features of installation near communications

When deciding whether to install a rack ceiling in the kitchen or bathroom, remember that despite the small size of the room, installation can be complicated by communications. There may be a problem with laying the rails around the pipe.

When working with a room where there are a lot of communications, bypassing the pipe will be the most time-consuming of the whole process.

Instructions on how to properly carry out the work begin with the following:

1. You should measure the perimeter of the room and set marks in the places where fasteners and guides will be installed.
2. The distance between the pipes and the distance from them to the wall should be carefully measured.
3. Cut the required number and length of panels.
4. Transfer the dimensions and the exact distance on the panel and, using a construction knife, make the necessary cuts. To hide the cuts of the hole, which are for laying around the pipe, you can purchase special round caps-corners.

Laying the panels lengthwise or across will facilitate the installation process. It will be more difficult to bypass the pipe when installed diagonally. Here you will have to work hard so that the edges of the stripes coincide and do not violate the general view.

The suspended structure in the bathroom performs a whole range of technical functions: it masks defects in the ceiling surface, serves as an excellent frame for built-in lighting, and allows you to create a unique project in your favorite style.

Professionals can easily cope with both drywall and tensile structures, while amateurs should start with a simpler option: install a slatted ceiling in the bathroom on their own - quickly and at no extra cost.

The prototype of modern plastic and aluminum panels is the usual wooden lining, which is still used for wall and ceiling cladding.

Narrow long slats of various lengths are easy to install, so they are often used for finishing cottages, utility rooms, basements, attics.

With the advent of lighter and more decorative plastic panels on the market, the choice of decorating suspended structures has expanded - the most suitable for renovating bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens.

Thanks to the versatility of plastic, slatted ceilings have become a godsend for decorating the ceiling in the bathroom. Their advantages are undeniable: inexpensive cost, quick installation, diverse design, prompt repair

According to the material of manufacture, all popular panels that our supermarkets offer are divided into plastic and aluminum. PVC slats have a standard length of 2.5 m - 3 m - 4 m (there are also 6-meter parts, but they will not be required for typical bathrooms), but they differ in width.

Panels 25-30 cm wide after installation look like a continuous coating, as they do not have pronounced borders or inserts. We will dwell in more detail on elements that outwardly resemble narrow slats, that is, they have a width of 85 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm.

Aluminum slats are resistant to water splashes and temperature extremes, and their diverse design - from traditional white coating to bright gilding - allows you to realize fantastic projects

Reiki differ not only in size, but also in shape. Among the builders there are "their" divisions into categories.

For example, elements with right angles and a clear configuration are usually called German, with rounded edges - Italian, and unusual ones, characterized by a complex shape and additional installation difficulties - design.

Here are some types of decorative plastic panels:

Elements with soft, rounded corners, the length of the main parts and inserts - 3 m or 4 m, perforated options are possible (hole diameter - 1.5 mm)

V-shaped decorative elements that play the role of inserts between the main, background details. Possible colors: white, gold, silver matte or glossy, chrome

Decorative cube-shaped inserts that fill gaps in an open ceiling. The color of the inserts (gold, silver, chrome, white) is selected in contrast with the main background

When choosing certain details, it is necessary to focus on wall cladding, furniture color, lighting features and make sure that the design of the rails does not contradict the chosen style.

Do-it-yourself slatted ceiling: detailed photo installation instructions

Consider how to quickly install a rack ceiling in the bathroom, using a minimum of inexpensive parts. This manual is useful for beginners to get acquainted with the details of suspended structures.

The installation procedure is the same, regardless of the use of aluminum, steel or plastic parts.

Selecting the point in time to install the structure

Do not forget that the construction of a false ceiling is just one of the stages of bathroom renovation, therefore, it is necessary to determine in advance its place among other works.

Most often, construction activities are moving in the direction from the bottom up, that is, first I lay the floor, then the walls are tiled, and finally the suspended structure is erected. This is the most correct and logically explainable order.

The installation of traverses and the assembly of rails is a quick and “clean” process compared to, say, wall decoration with porcelain stoneware. There is practically no dirt and debris, and the most difficult event is the precise installation of the perimeter and the installation of suspensions.

Do not forget that in parallel with the installation of suspended elements, it is necessary to carry out work on the installation of lighting fixtures - spotlights, chandeliers or hidden lighting

Finishing ceiling work allows you to adjust the height of the walls, mask the flaws in their decoration. For example, a small gap between the tile and the ceiling is easy to cover with a suspended structure.

And here it would not be out of place to recall another advantage of the rack ceiling: it can always be done without prior preparation, simply by installing the profile and “typing” the required number of panels.

Simply put, this is a budget version of the ceiling, which can be erected or dismantled at any stage of the construction process.

We will provide instructions for the construction of a white slatted ceiling. If desired, it can be decorated with colored inserts, install spotlights or use slats of a different size.

Preparatory stage - materials and tools

First of all, you will need tools for marking, since correctly measured distances and intervals are a guarantee of a beautiful result. So, you need:

• marker;
• square;
• roulette;
• building cord (optional);
• level (preferably laser).

With the help of these simple devices, you can carry out all the preliminary work. The first step will be the installation of a guide profile, which will run along the perimeter of the entire room, so it is important to calculate the height of the future structure.

The uppermost ceramic tile can serve as a hint, and its edge can serve as a kind of guide.

The laser level is necessary at any stage of repair work in the bathroom, especially when marking. With its help lay tiles, cladding panels, mount suspended structures of various types

If there are plastic panels or a layer of plaster on the walls, then you will have to count from the floor. Why not from the ceiling?

The fact is that in some houses the ceiling slabs lie unevenly, and if you focus on them, you can make a design with a slope - this shortcoming will immediately catch your eye.

In addition to marking tools, you will need scissors (or a construction knife), a drill (perforator), a screwdriver, a screwdriver. Plastic is easily cut with an ordinary construction knife.

But if you chose aluminum panels, you will have to get special metal scissors. As you can see, there are few tools.

Metal shears can be useful for cutting aluminum panels, steel rails and other metal parts, including decorative corners and inserts

List of required materials:

• ceiling panels - slats made of plastic or aluminum with a width of 85 to 150 mm;
• guide metal profile;
• traverses (bearing tires for attaching rails) and suspensions for them;
• decorative plinth;
• fasteners (dowels, screws).

If the width of the bathroom is only one and a half meters, then it makes sense to purchase 3-meter parts, divide them in half and choose a “transverse” design.

For a large room, respectively, we buy 4, less often - 6-meter panels. If you want to decorate the ceiling with decorative inserts, consider their width when purchasing the main details.

The calculation of the supporting profile is as follows: if the length of the bathroom does not exceed 2.5 m, then 2 rows are enough, that is, a maximum of 5 m. Knowing the number and length of the tires, we calculate purely suspensions - with a light ceiling, 2-3 suspensions for each bus.

When buying a kit of parts, take care of spare parts that may come in handy for the next repair.

Installation of guides around the perimeter

Suppose we measured the height of the flow and marked the line along which the guides of all four sides will pass. The distance to the ceiling is from 10 to 20 cm.

It is impossible below, since the room will look cramped, they are also not recommended above to leave room for technical maneuvers - lighting system devices. Before installation, we check the accuracy of measurements with a level.

We cut the carrier profile into segments equal to the length of the sides using metal scissors.

We apply each segment with the wide side to the intended line, drill holes right through the metal, fix it with screws with dowels. The distance between the holes is approximately 40 cm

If we put the profile on top of the tile, make sure that the marks do not fall on the junction of two tiles. In this case, it is better to use not a puncher for drilling, but a drill and a special drill for ceramics.

We place the guides alternately on all the walls, inserting one profile into the other at the corner joints. When installing each new segment, we use a laser level - any distortion will be noticeable after the general installation

The result should be a smooth frame encircling the entire room. It will serve as a support for the installation of rails and perform a decorative function.

Installation of suspensions and traverses

We fix the hangers (perforated metal plates on which the tires will be mounted) on the stream by drilling recesses for the dowels in its surface.

We hammer the dowels into specially designed holes with a hammer, then insert 2 screws each and tighten them with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

When the suspensions are firmly fixed, we bend both ends of each of them down. Between the ends there will be traverses - load-bearing tires, the basis for installing panels

We take the tires, bring them to the hangers and securely fasten them with screws at the required height. We bend the remaining free ends of the hangers up so that they do not interfere with the fastening of the rails.

When installed correctly, the ends of the traverses should almost touch the opposite walls and be above the supporting profile. The position of each fixed part is checked with a level

It happens that the tire is not enough for the entire length of the room. In this case, it must be increased. At the end of the installed traverse, we mount another suspension, bring the missing segment end-to-end and fix the structure.

On this, the draft work is completed, it remains to assemble the ceiling, laying out the slats according to the planned project (along, across, diagonally, combined).

Ceiling Assembly

We take out the rails from the packages, remove the protective film. Up to this point, it is not recommended to unpack plastic or aluminum panels so as not to inadvertently damage the edges or the top decorative layer.

We cut segments along the length or width of the room.

We take the rails one by one and insert them one by one with the ends into the guide wall profile, and snap the central part onto the traverse (on which special teeth are intended for this)

The last rail does not always fit in width, sometimes it needs to be trimmed. We snap the last detail - the ceiling is ready.

In our case, the ceiling is of a closed type, that is, the panels fit snugly against each other, forming an integral coating, without gaps. If the plans complicate the installation with decorative elements, then gaps should remain between the rails - along the width of the inserts. We install decorative inserts together with the main ones, alternating them

It remains to complete the installation of the lighting system.

Installation of fixtures

We are not interested in mounting the chandelier, as it does not fit well with the slatted ceiling. The simplest and best option is a set of spotlights. Their location can be any:

• along the perimeter of the room;
• along long walls;
• diagonally;
• over work areas;
• in a checkerboard pattern, etc.

In fact, the lion's share of the system is prepared in advance. Even before attaching the rails, it is necessary to lay the wiring, bring it to the fixing points of the fixtures, and cut holes in the panels to size.

In this case, after mounting the ceiling, it remains to fix the lamps and screw the lamps.

Better than others, LED lamps are suitable for bathtubs, which do not heat the ceiling surface, save electricity and give light close to natural light.

The appearance of the lamp can be anything, but it must match the color of the panels and match the style of the room.

The most popular models are round products in silver or gold, but there are hundreds of original lamps decorated with rhinestones, Czech glass, colored shades or pendants.

Design secrets of slatted ceilings

Having decided to build a slatted ceiling in the bathroom or in the toilet with your own hands, consider its design even before starting work. You can achieve an incredible effect, given the texture or location of the rails.

The simplest option, which can be called universal, is white panels without inserts and patterns, with built-in lights. It is suitable for a bathroom in a classic style or in any modern design.

The main advantage of white glossy and matte slats is their excellent compatibility with the whole gamut of colors and textures. All shades of white are in harmony with both pastel wall cladding and dark tiles.

The black ceiling with narrow inserts of the same color looks presentable, especially against the background of chrome accessories and shiny plumbing.

Be careful with black slats. Do not forget that dark tones narrow the space, and the black ceiling, accordingly, visually reduces the height of the walls. For the opposite effect, use reflective gloss or mirror inserts.

Popular slatted ceiling with silver or gold accents. It has two advantages: it enhances the decorative possibilities of panels of any color and fits well into environments filled with chrome details.

Try not to mix gold and silver in the interior of the bathroom or use them in large quantities: the colors lose their appeal, become too catchy, attract all the attention. Light silver or gold decor, on the contrary, looks elegant and appropriate.

If you have sufficient skill in installing suspended structures, you can experiment and create a complex combined structure, playing with the texture and arrangement of rails of different colors.

One of the design rules concerns moderation in the use of bright colors or shiny details. If the ceiling in the bathroom is too expressive, try to minimize the decoration of the walls.

Finally - one of the options for installing a combined suspended structure.

Slatted ceilings are widely used for finishing rooms with high humidity and pollution, such as kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry rooms. The reason for their popularity is the lightness of the material, its durability, moisture resistance and ease of care. Mounting it is also easy. To figure out how to assemble a rack ceiling, you must first understand what it is.

Rail material and ceiling design

Slatted ceilings consist of aluminum, steel, plastic slats (5 to 30 cm wide and 0.4-0.7 mm thick) and a suspension mounting system.

Laths are matte or glossy, smooth or textured and may differ in seams. The way the rails are connected to each other is: open, closed and gapless.

The mounting system consists of the following parts:

• Carrier rail - combs - galvanized strips with locking teeth, under which the rails are inserted. The design of the edge of the rail is such that the bottom, hidden edge, snaps into place with a fastener, and the top, front one, covers it.
• Adjustable suspension consisting of a bracket attached to the comb and a rod attached to the base ceiling.
• Corner, wall, profile, which is needed to close the joint between the wall and the suspended ceiling.

The suspension height can be from 5 to 15 cm. It cannot be less than 5 cm (4 cm is the tire width), and how much more depends on the size of the communications that are bred under the ceiling and the design solution.

It is necessary to decide whether the rails will be attached along or across the room. A long and narrow room with longitudinal slats on the ceiling will seem even longer and narrower. Therefore, the decision must be made based on the dimensions of the room.

Mounting method for rack ceiling

Before figuring out how to assemble a rack ceiling, you need to stock up on the necessary tools. For work you will need:

• building level 1.2-1.6 m;
• ruler, tape measure;
• marker;
• sharp knife, metal scissors;
• dowels, self-tapping screws;
• drill.

How to assemble rack aluminum ceiling: Installation algorithm:

1. In the upper corner of the room at a distance of not less than 4 cm, we make a mark along which the rails will be attached.
2. Using a level, this mark must be moved around the entire perimeter of the room in increments of no more than 1 m.
3. We measure the length of the wall, parallel to which the strips will be mounted, mark and cut off the corner profile of the desired length.
4. We drill holes for fastening the profile - 5 cm from the wall and further every 50-60 cm.
5. We apply the profile to the marked line on the wall and through the holes we outline the attachment points.
6. We drill holes, apply a profile, insert dowels and fasten the profile on self-tapping screws.
7. We also attach the corner profile to the rest of the walls of the room.
8. We fix the carrier rail perpendicular to the wall along which the rails will go. With a tape measure, we measure a distance of 30-40 cm from the wall, and then every 90-100 cm - to the end of the wall. The distance from the tire to the corner profile should be about 1 m.
9. We strengthen the carrier rail with the help of suspensions. To do this, you need to attach it to the ceiling and mark the attachment points 30 cm to the left and right of the wall. Between them at a distance of 1-1.5 m we mark additional fasteners. We also make markings for all tires.
10. We punch holes at the marked points with a puncher, insert dowels into them.
11. The rail can be mounted directly to the ceiling or on adjustable hangers, depending on the required hanging height.
12. The length of the rack ceiling panels should be equal to the length (width) of the ceiling, less than 0.3-0.5 cm. We measure and cut the required number of panels.
13. Let's proceed with the installation of the panels: first insert the panel diagonally, and then align it along the wall and snap it into place with the carrier rail clamps.
14. We insert the second behind the first rail, matching it along the seam with the previous one and so on to the opposite end of the wall.
15. The suspension height must be adjusted by the depth of the screwed-in screws or suspension adjustment (depending on which mounting option is chosen).
16. If the last rail does not completely fit in width, you will have to cut it: outline a line along which it will need to be cut with a sharp knife along the ruler. The rail must be bent and unbent along this line until it breaks along it. On a long rail, it is better to make cuts to the line and break off its extra half in parts.
17. The trimmed panel is installed under the corner profile, fixed in it with wooden spacers. The rack ceiling is ready.

If built-in lamps are installed in the ceiling, then mark their location, make holes and insert the lamp housings in advance, and remove the wiring during the installation process.

Dedicated to A.A.))
Suppose you have made a rack ceiling. How to evaluate the quality of installation? Using an example, I will show you what you need to pay attention to, I will outline three main reasons (although there are more) because of which I would not accept a job. I'll tell you how the ideal rack ceiling should look like and add the secrets of installation.



To begin with, it doesn’t matter what kind of production it is, the price and width of the rails, with or without inserts, it doesn’t matter what quality it is. Absolutely any ceiling can be assembled so that it does not raise questions - then trust my experience. Therefore, for illustrations, I took pictures from the last bathroom, made in an economy version, including the most simple and economical slats from Leroy Merlin. Ceiling without inserts, "French version".

The first thing I look at is the joints of the guides. In most cases, the p-profile is joined at right angles with the letter G, less often (unique ones) run one profile into another.


Both options are the simplest, but, of course, this is wrong.
Profiles are joined at 45 * like ceiling plinths. There is one nuance here, which, as I understand it, many do not know. How to cut and calculate the angle so that there is no gap at the junction?
Yes Easy. Profiles are cut in place.


So we get a beautiful joint of guides.


There is another nuance here. To make it convenient to cut through, the upper edge of the profile is initially cut as below in the picture.
So you have a free corridor for scissors. Conveniently!

Now the second reason why I would not accept the ceiling. Of course it's cracks.
Raise your hands who has a rack and there is not a single gap in it!)
This is the misfortune of most ceilings, which does not justify the installer. Because to avoid them is very simple, for this you do not need, like some, to throw pieces of tiles on the rails and invent bicycles.

Everything is solved by trimming the same p-profile.


Let's start with the first plank. The profile and stringers are already installed.
We paste. What do we see?



Naturally, the rails warp. Therefore, we insert cut pieces of the p-profile into each connection. I advise you to drive the profiles along the entire length into the first bar.

These latches not only get rid of cracks but also prevent their occurrence in the future. They give rigidity to the entire structure, no gaps are formed when replacing light bulbs, for example, or rails, and during further installation, when it will no longer be possible to reach the first rails.


Therefore, you need to insert them into each bar, even if the connection is good.
It is reliable and of high quality, ordinary profile cutting solves all issues.
Now one more nuance of the assembly. How to insert the last bar and at the same time without gaps? After all, almost always it is cut along, and given the material, it warps.
The solution is simple. The penultimate rail is inserted last. This is the law! There are no other options!
Before that, you need to calculate and install the last bar, usually it is clamped along its entire length with latches, which exclude the appearance of cracks.


Then, pieces of inserts are baited into the p-profile for the last rail, which will tighten the final bar. After all, now there will be no access to the interceiling space.


We insert the last one, we correct it.
Everything.


The third most common joint is a sealant. Most often, they are coated with the seams of the fit of the p-profile to the walls and try to mask the gaps.
I will say this - any presence of sealant on the ceilings is excluded. If I see him, I no longer look at the ceiling. In my mind, this is pornography, I would never accept a ceiling with sealant. In fact, this recognition is not that of unprofessionalism, but an element of collective farm performance.

There are two more points to pay attention to.
The first one is grout. The walls (at least in the ceiling area) must be rubbed before installation. In theory, you can gently let down and after, but it is immediately noticeable, in any case, I notice right away.
And the second is the fit of built-in lamps. Often light shines through them, this is a jamb.

Now the only moment in defense and it concerns the installation of French options without inserts. Yes, often slots are visible through the slats, through which you can even see the contours of the stringers. There are no options here, the stringer itself regulates the tightness of the slats, so if there is a choice, the inserts look more attractive.

How do I know all this? For several years I worked purely in bathrooms, when stretch ceilings were just appearing and slatted ceilings were considered in vogue. Considering that each bathroom is done alone for at least 14 days (when forcing) and up to 3 weeks, I redid so many ceilings that I know all the algorithms by heart. I assemble a standard ceiling in 5 hours, and I simply don’t know how to assemble it otherwise. All the aforementioned jambs can be presented to the installer, they are justified.

Use advice. This is all.

They first appeared in our country in the 90s, but then they cost much more than other types of repairs, and for this reason they were not widely used. But over time, the production technology of this material improved, which allowed manufacturers to significantly reduce their prices. Now slatted ceilings can already be found everywhere, both in administrative buildings and in simple ones. And if you install a two-level rack ceiling at home, you can generally get a work of art in the apartment.

Tools and materials needed for work:

1. Stringers, profiles, suspension panels and all other fixtures that make up your ceiling.
2. Impact drill, screwdriver, puncher, jigsaw.
3. Construction level, rulers, tape measure, marker for marking.
4. A set of screwdrivers, pliers, metal shears, a knife.
5. A set of self-tapping screws and dowel-nails.
6. Ladder.

Lath ceiling installation technology

1. First of all, we determine the height of your ceiling. It can be arbitrary, but if there are lighting devices here, then it is necessary to lower it at least 1 cm below the height of the lamp.
2. We make markings around the entire perimeter of the room, connecting the dots with a straight line. To do this, use the corners, applying them to the wall. Here, at the level set by us, the basis of this entire complex structure will be held.

3. We put marks under the future mount. The marking step is 30-40 cm, but if tiles are laid on the walls in the room, then this should be taken into account so that the marks do not fall on the seam. Otherwise, ceramic tiles may burst.

4. We drill rails.

5. We make a hole in the walls.

6. We fasten the corners to the walls with self-tapping screws. This is a fairly light material, and such a mount will withstand it.

7. Next, we prepare our guides for work - stringers. We will need them at the next stage of mounting the rack ceiling.

8. If the bathroom is small, up to 5 square meters, then only three stringers are enough here. The standard distance between them is 70 cm-1 m. But it is better to put one more additional bar, which will give additional strength to our structure.

9. So that the ceiling does not sag, it is better to step back a little from the wall - about 10 cm.

10. Using a drill and a “crown” nozzle, we make holes for lighting fixtures.

11. Drilling must be done as carefully as possible so as not to damage our strips.

12. Immediately insert the lamps into the grooves made.

13. Let's start attaching the panels. They are inserted into the stringers until a characteristic click, indicating that the edges of the rails are securely fixed.

14. Gradually insert them one by one, filling the ceiling space.

15. The panel that turned out opposite the stringer mount is placed last.

16. We adjust the height of the ceiling.

17. This operation can be performed using a screwdriver or a conventional screwdriver.

18. We fasten the remaining rail.

19. We check the quality of work. If the installation of a plastic or aluminum rack ceiling is done correctly, then for a dozen or two years you can forget about repairs.

Where is the best place to install an aluminum rack ceiling?

Everyone knows that aluminum, unlike plastic, is a non-flammable material. This allows you to use this type of finish on stairwells and other possible ways of evacuating people. If you use it in the kitchen, you will be absolutely sure that the low ceiling above the stove will not suffer from the heat. He is also not afraid of high humidity, which makes it possible to widely use aluminum slatted ceilings in halls, baths, pools and lobbies. In addition, such a surface is environmentally friendly, does not emit harmful fumes, and can be cleaned with any detergent.