The tuber-bulb flower gladiolus is loved by all flower growers, its varieties are diverse. Gladiolus have unilateral arrow-shaped inflorescences and xiphoid leaves. Flowers are smooth and corrugated. The colors of gladiolus are diverse: from monophonic to two-color. Cultivation of gladioli is carried out most often for cutting, flowering occurs in July-September.

To grow gladioli, you must adhere to the agricultural technology of growing these flowers. Disease often damages the best varieties gladioli.

Gladiolus

Conditions for gladioli

You need to grow flowers on sunny place protected from the violent winds. The soil they prefer is sandy, loamy with the addition of old humus soil. You can not bring fresh humus or manure for planting gladioli, the bulbs get sick and die from this. Inhibits plants and lime, it is better to replace it with sulfur powder. Below we will write everything you need to know about planting and caring for gladioli in the garden.

Preparing gladiolus bulbs for planting

Before spring planting, gladioli bulbs are carefully peeled and immersed in water for a day at room temperature. Then the bulbs are dried and pickled in formalin, diluted 1:800. The pickling time for large bulbs is 2 hours, and for small ones - up to 1.5 hours. Next, the bulbs are again washed in water and dried.

When to plant gladioli

Planting gladioli is carried out in early spring, when the earth moves away. Slight frosts are not terrible for gladioli.

Planting gladioli in the ground

How to plant gladiolus outdoors

Deep planting of gladiolus bulbs produces very large flowers, and shallow planting produces many babies. When planting large bulbs, the depth is maintained at 8-10 cm, between the bulbs we maintain 15-20 cm. planting hole river sand (1 cm) is poured, gladioli bulbs are laid and also sprinkled with clean sand, but not with earth. You can immediately install a peg for tying a flower arrow next to the hole.

Care for gladioli in the garden

Top dressing is applied during the cultivation of gladioli 3-4 times, wood superphosphate and ash are suitable for this. Caring for gladioli consists of loosening the soil and watering.

Watering gladioli

Water gladiolus every week during the growing season - in the morning or in the evening. You need to pour a lot of water, it is better to do this in the furrows, which will first be made a few centimeters from the gladioli. After that, gladioli can be mulched or loosened the soil so that the moisture lasts longer.

Blooming gladiolus

The arrow of the flower is cut without leaves, they will give strength to the development of the bulb, providing it with nutrition. Cut flowers of gladiolus can be in the water for about eleven days, during which time all the buds will bloom in turn.

When to Dig Up Gladiolus

Autumn care for gladiolus

Autumn care for gladioli consists of collecting bulbs and preparing for wintering. How more leaves has a plant, the larger the bulb will be. Peduncles must be cut with a knife disinfected with alcohol, the procedure is repeated with each cut.

We dig up gladioli, preparing for wintering

Gladiolus are dug up last, let a few autumn frosts pass. For this, garden forks with three teeth are suitable. The soil should be slightly damp or dry. Dig carefully so as not to hurt the children. Then it shakes off the gladiolus excess soil light tapping on the stem. The stems are cut off, a stump of 3-4 cm should remain, the roots are left. The corms of gladioli are dried upside down on wooden grates.

A day later, the bulbs are disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (2-3 hours). And again lie down after that until completely dry on the grate. After all the procedures, the stump will easily separate along with the husk from the bulb.

How to store gladioli in winter

Drying is over, now the bulbs are inspected, damaged and diseased are removed.

Storage of gladioli is best done in a dry room at a temperature of 6-7 ºC in wooden boxes. The layer should consist of no more than four rows. Gladiolus bulbs during storage should be inspected every fifteen days. Raw bulbs are dried, and the diseased are removed. Good luck!

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When growing gladiolus, an important aspect is the correct time to dig before wintering. To determine this, one must take into account climatic features your region, as well as the time of planting and trimming flowers.

Please note that if the gladioli have faded, the procedures for preparing for storage will be different, so you should carefully read the guidelines for digging and wintering gladiolus set out in this article.

also in this material tells about the rules for planting and caring for gladioli, having studied which you can grow lovely decoration your garden, in the form of such aesthetic flowers as gladioli. The article will be useful for both beginner gardeners and more experienced professionals in the field of botany.

General information

In general, more than two hundred species of gladioli are known to science, and the number of varieties bred by breeders has already exceeded five thousand. Another name for this flower is "skewer", it is due acute form stem and flowers of the plant.

Mostly gladioli are grown for use in bouquets. The color of gladiolus flowers is very different, including red, lilac, white, pink, yellow and even close to black. All this helps to create colorful flower arrangements.

Gladiolus, description of the species

Africa is considered the birthplace of gladioli, perhaps from there the plant came to the Mediterranean countries, and wild species were also found in the Asian region. The first mention of the flower dates back to the third century BC. In ancient treatises, the corms of a flower were said to be healing and magical, capable of curing diseases and protecting against enemies.

They were also used for food. Interest in gladiolus, as an ornamental plant, appeared only at the beginning of the 19th century, it immediately gained recognition as European countries as well as in America.

Relate to corms perennials Iris family.
Their leaves are straight, tall, rather hard. At the bottom, the leaves close, clasping the stem on both sides. Stems high, up to 1.5 meters, solitary. Inflorescences spike-shaped, up to 0.9-1 m long.

• Each flower is assembled from six lobes, fused at the base, shaped like a funnel. The fruit is a capsule, the seeds are round, brown.
• Each plant forms a round, slightly flattened bulb, dressed in scales. The color of the bulbs can be very different, from light yellow to dark burgundy, almost black.
• The color of the flower petals also differs in the same variety.

These flowers are suitable for growing both in open ground and in greenhouses, they are good both in flower beds and in the cut.

Autumn harvesting and storage of gladioli

With the advent of autumn, you need to think about saving gladioli for next year.

Around the tenth of September (but if your gladioli bloom for a long time, then later) you need to dig up the bulbs, separate the children from the mother tuber, destroy diseased specimens and process those that can still be saved.

Shoots are cut off with a pruner after digging. collected material washed by running water and disinfected with a solution of foundationol, followed by washing again, and after it treatment with a solution of manganese.

After that, the tubers are dried for a couple of days and transferred to boxes. The first 15 days of storage are held at a very warm temperature, the thermometer column can rise up to 30 ° C. Further, the temperature is reduced to 20 ° C and it will remain so until the spring cleaning. Do not forget to turn the bulbs over from time to time throughout the winter.
Children collected after digging are also left. They are stored at 5°C, as higher temperatures adversely affect germination. Children are allowed to be stored in the refrigerator.
It is also worth mentioning some additional tips for growing these flowers.

• You can not grow plants in one place for more than 2 years.
• When transplanted to a new place, the change in the composition of the soil affects the flowers well.
• It is worth buying bulbs that are designed for growing in your climate.
• Do not plant children and tubers nearby, as the latter will suffocate the former.
• Try to plant bulbs and babies on correct depth, because if the deepening is insufficient, then the stems will fall, and if planted very deep, then there may be no flowering.
• When grown in sandy loam, the plant needs more foliar fertilizers than on other soils.
• Beds with gladioli should be well ventilated to avoid the appearance of fungi.

Gladioli need 40-45 days after flowering for the corm to gain strength for next year!

It means that after cutting flowers gladiolus for about this time should remain in the garden and accumulate nutrients specifically for corms. Unfortunately, many flower growers do not know about the existence of this rule and, due to inexperience, lose expensive varieties, allowing gladioli to bloom until the very frost, and then immediately digging them up for storage in an emergency mode.

If you dig up the corms, preventing them from gaining strength without a peduncle, then most likely they will not even sprout next year. That is why, based on local climatic conditions, already in August you need to prepare gladioli for harvesting.

For example, if in your area stable colds come in early October, then you will need to dig up gladioli at the end of September. In conditions middle lane these dates are shifted a couple of weeks further, so corms can be harvested after the first decade of October.

cut inflorescences

I hope this is clear. Now you need to determine the timing of the "total" cutting of inflorescences, regardless of whether they bloomed or not. To do this, subtract 40-45 days from the estimated date of harvesting. For example, in the middle lane, I cut off all flower arrows on September 1, and after October 10 I start cleaning. I repeat that depending on climatic conditions, these dates can be shifted, but 40 days for a corm to ripen is the law , which the grower is better not to violate!

• Experienced gladiolus collectors advise first of all to harvest dark-colored (cherry-red, purple) and lavender-blue varieties, because they lose their natural immunity to fungal diseases earlier.
• In addition, it is recommended to first dig up early varieties and medium ones, and then late ones, for which 40 days for aging is the minimum, it is advisable to give them 50 days.
• Young non-flowering corms are dug up later than all the others to give them more time to accumulate nutrients.

Often, new varieties are acquired precisely in the form of large children, they can only release a flower arrow by the end of summer. If you really want to see the first flowering or just check the correctness of the variety, then the flower arrow is broken out in advance, but not completely, but up to the first bud. It is left alone on the plant and very soon it will bloom, after which it is also removed.

With an impressive collection, digging up gladioli is a rather large-scale, time-consuming and responsible job that cannot be done in one day. They prepare for it in advance, freeing up a day or two from other events, stocking up on boxes and similar containers, signing labels with the names of varieties.

The first light (0-2 degrees) autumn frosts do no harm to gladioli at all, lower temperatures slightly damage the leaves. With severe freezing, they synthesize nutrients worse, and you will have to hurry up with digging. The corms themselves in the soil will not be affected, but if the temperature is expected to drop below -5-7 degrees, then it is advisable to cover the bed with mulch.

Weather

It is advisable to start cleaning in dry, warm weather, but if the deadlines are running out, then the main thing is to dig it out in time, regardless of rain or snow. Each gladiolus is carefully dug up with a shovel, the soil is shaken off over a piece of film (so that the children do not scatter around the garden) and the stems are cut with secateurs or sharp scissors, leaving a stump of no more than 1-2 cm at the corms.

• The old corm is immediately removed along with the roots, the best children are selected for reproduction. In corms grown from children, they only shorten the roots, which will need to be completely removed before planting. Thereafter planting material thoroughly washed in a solution of potassium permanganate, or one of the fungicides.
• Corms are not peeled from scales in autumn, unless a couple of the top ones are removed. Each variety is placed in a separate box to dry and placed in a very warm place(25-30 °C, but not lower than 20 °C) for the first two weeks. Then they are dried for another 1 month at a temperature of 20-22°C.
• After complete drying, the corms are laid out for storage in linen bags or boxes indicating the names of the varieties and stored in a cool, dry place (optimally 5-10 ° C). It can be a dry cellar, where there are no rodents, the lower shelf of the refrigerator, utility non-residential premises etc.
  Every month, during storage, corms should be inspected in order to detect diseased ones in time.

If they become damp and become covered with mold, they are laid out to dry in a warm place for several days, after which they are again placed in storage.
Gladiolus all year round requires the attention and care of the grower. Love him, and he will never cheat on you - he will annually delight with magnificent graceful flowers, because it is not for nothing that he is considered a symbol of loyalty and honor!

shkolazhizni.ru

When to dig up corms and where to store planting material?

The term for digging corms depends mainly on the timing of flowering and cutting. For the maturation of corms and babies from the day of flowering and cutting, 30-40 days should pass. So, if the gladiolus bloomed and was cut on August 1, then on September 1 it can already be dug up. If there are a lot of gladioli and it is impossible to remember the flowering time of each, they keep a diary and check the time of digging each plant according to their records. In cases where the gladiolus is not cut and the flower remains on the plant, additional nutrients are consumed and the time for digging is postponed for another 15-20 days.

In the non-chernozem zone of Russia, the bulk of gladioli flourishes in the second half of August. Therefore, digging can begin as early as September 15th. A slight under-ripening does not affect the quality of the corm, but it is favorable for the selection of the baby, since the unripe baby has not yet separated from the corm and is easily selected along with it. The bulk of the baby in this case has a light gray or gray color.

A well-ripened baby has a dark brown color, difficult to distinguish from the color of the soil, in addition, it is not connected to corms. The loss of such a baby during digging and clogging of the soil is very likely.

Corms of gladiolus are dug up in sunny weather. First, plants grown from corms are selected, and among them, early varieties are the first. To do this, experienced amateur flower growers try to place plantings by variety in such a way that the early ones grow separately from the later ones. This makes digging easier. You can dig with a shovel, but it is better to take two scoops with hard handles.

best time for digging

On the one hand, cleaning should not be delayed in order to prevent corms from being in cold, damp soil - harvesting is best done in dry weather, when the earth is not too wet (it should easily crumble from the corms without polluting them), but also not dry and hardened. In both cases, it is quite difficult to select all the children.

And since the children remaining in the ground are able to remain viable for several years, the site becomes clogged, the varieties can mix. Gladiolus bulbs left in the ground do not tolerate frosts below 10C and below.

Do not hurry

On the other hand, you should not start digging too early, since the ripening of corms in varieties of early and medium flowering periods occurs within 30-40 days after flowering or cutting of inflorescences, in late varieties within 45-50 days. If individual plants begin to form a peduncle too late, then unfortunately it is necessary to cut it out (or break it out) so that the bulb has time to fully mature.

With a single-line transverse landing, the digging process is as follows:

• at a distance of approximately 7 cm from the center of the gladiolus corm, scoops are cut into the soil on both sides, passing along the entire row;
• starting from the edge of the row, the scoops cut deeper by about 15 cm and bend the handles away from the gladioli;
• pressing on the handles, the ends of the scoops of the corms of gladioli with the baby stick out to the surface of the soil;
• choose corms and a baby from the soil and put them in a container; a sieve, a box or a basin can serve as a container.

When the plantings of one variety are completely dug out, pruning is done:

• cut the stem as close to the corm as possible;
• tear off the old corm from the new one by pressing thumb right hand;
• cut the roots.

Sometimes the old corm is torn off after a week of drying. It depends on the conditions for drying and the skills developed by the grower.

After digging up the corms and baby gladiolus are placed on a sieve for washing in water. The washed material is placed in bags, the variety is designated and treated (see the section "Preparation of planting material").

The timing of digging is associated not only with the process of maturation of corms and babies, but also with the condition of the plants. If the gladiolus plants are green, with no visible signs of disease, then they are dug up at the usual time. If there are diseased specimens, then they dig out earlier in order to save the crop of corms.

How to dig

• And then I do the following: I tightly clamp the bulb in my left hand. A right hand gently shake the stem so that it breaks off.
• Here the main thing is to get used to breaking off the stem without damaging the integumentary scales. You just need to gently bend the stem in one direction, in the other, do not pull sharply. This method allows you to do without cutting the stem.
• This is usually easy to do in young bulbs with not very thick stems. Thick stems require more care, they are more difficult to break, sometimes you have to cut them.

But if you can't break the stem without breaking the scales, then cut it short. In any case, the stem should be removed or cut short. Do not leave it to dry with the onion.

The fact is that the leaves can contain the most dangerous pest gladiolus - thrips. If the stem and leaves are not removed, it will move to the bulb, under the scales, and will overwinter on it. As a result, the bulbs may die during the winter, and if they do not disappear, then flowering in the summer may not occur. From thrips, flower arrows are underdeveloped, the plant does not bloom and dies. And it is very difficult to notice it - a very small pest.

Therefore, it is best to remove the tops from gladioli from the site - take them out or burn them.

Children remain on the dug out bulb, and under the bottom there is an old bulb. I separate them for drying.

Bulb drying

I put the dug bulbs in boxes with the bottom up in one layer. I put the boxes in low boxes. In this form, I dry gladioli for several weeks. Turn the bulbs while drying.

When the weather permits, I take it out into the sun. If the weather is bad, I put the boxes in the shed. To speed up the drying process, we slightly heat the bath and bring it in to dry. If there are few gladioli, you can put them in the room. best temperature for drying - 28-30 degrees.

Drying can take 2-3 weeks.

Cleaning order.

The early and middle ones are removed first, and then late varieties gladioli. In addition, take into account another important nuance. Among equal harvesting periods, they are the first to try to dig out dark-colored varieties of gladioli (cherry-red, purple) and lavender-blue, since they lose their natural immunity to fungal diseases earlier. Last of all, gladioli grown from tuber buds (children) are removed.

Thus, for central Russia the period of harvesting corms of gladiolus falls on September - October.

If the dug corms are heavily contaminated, then you can gently rinse them in running water and dry them. Some flower growers pickle the excavated planting material in insecticide preparations (in case of damage by thrips), fungicides (if the leaves at the time of digging had an unhealthy appearance), and healthy gladioli - in solution boric acid or potassium permanganate.

The time for which the bulbs are placed in the solution depends on the preparation and is indicated by its manufacturer. For boric acid and potassium permanganate, this is about half an hour.

In excavated plants, it is necessary to cut the stem, leaving a small stump (about 1-1.5 cm). Sick plants are collected in a separate container and, after harvesting, burned.

Corms must be dried for about two months before being stored.

We lay them out to dry by grade in separate trays (if possible in one layer) in a well-ventilated area. The first 10-15 days - at a temperature of 25-30º C, then another 1-1.5 months at a temperature of 20-22º C.

During the drying process, corms should be periodically turned over and inspected for signs of disease and signs of thrips. Sick corms are to be removed and destroyed.

At the first signs of thrips reproduction, it is necessary to decompose the corms into plastic bags, inject a small amount of an aerosol preparation from insects, tightly tie the bags and leave for at least half an hour - an hour. You can warm the corms for 5 minutes in hot water(+50º), then dry thoroughly. An indicator that the tubers are dried enough is the easy separation of the old corm from the new one.

In dried corms, children and the old corm should be separated

Which can serve as a source of diseases, cut off the roots.

On the other hand, the integumentary scale protects the corms from drying out. We believe that cleaning should not be done, prolonged drying before storage, modern insecticides allow planting material to be stored without much loss all winter.

There is a method of processing corms with molten paraffin

Protects against drying out and mold fungi. To do this, we heat the paraffin in a water bath and immerse the corms peeled from scales in it for a few seconds. This method (waxing) is considered one of the most reliable, but it is also the most expensive and time-consuming. When planting, paraffin should not be cleaned; waxed corms are germinated and planted right in the "clothing" of paraffin.

Poorly dried corms due to high humidity under the scales, they begin to get sick with fungal and bacterial diseases, are poorly stored and die. Therefore, only well-dried and healthy corms with no signs of disease should be stored for storage. All gladiolus corms with signs of disease and cracked babies are discarded.

If there are few varieties or the gladiolus variety is very valuable, and the damage is small, then you can cut out the damaged areas to healthy tissue and cover it with brilliant green (brilliant green) or process strong mortar potassium permanganate.

Front bookmark for storage of corms

It is necessary to inspect again, removing the topmost, thin scales before that, sorting them into bags sewn from fabric that passes air well or from nonwoven fabric, not forgetting to attach a label with the name of the variety.

• Put the bags in boxes or boxes and place in a dry cellar. A small amount of planting material can be stored in a household refrigerator.
• The optimum storage temperature is 3-10º C, but not lower than 2 degrees at low humidity.
• Some gladiolus growers recommend breaking off the stumps left from the stem before storing.

This stump, and in particular the place where it passes into the integumentary scales, is ideal for the life of thrips. By removing it, we deprive this pest of unnecessary protection. On the other hand, when the hemp is removed, the probability of drying out of the open growth bud increases. Therefore, if the losses from thrips are large, we remove the stump. If the pest is not particularly pestering, the stump can be left.

Babies separated from corms

Sort into varieties, if necessary, rinse from adhering earth, dry and put away for storage, providing labels.

In winter, about once a month, it is necessary to check the planting material and remove diseased corms to avoid infecting healthy bulbs. The appearance of gray mold on the bulbs indicates increased humidity during storage. It is necessary to ventilate the room, if possible, add hydrophobic materials (vermiculite, perlite, silica gel) to bags, boxes or bags with bulbs.

Wipe the mouldy-covered klebnebulbs with a cloth soaked in an alcohol solution, vodka, and dry thoroughly. Gray mold, if not allowed to spread, unlike Fusarium, has practically no effect on the quality of planting material.

flora32.ru

excavation

The safety of corms and babies during storage is closely related to the mode of their drying after digging. If under-dried corms get into the storage, there is a danger of them being affected by fungal diseases under the general name "rot". Therefore, it is important to dry dug out, washed and pickled corms and a baby of gladioli for two to three weeks at a temperature of 25-30 ° C, and then a month at room temperature. Beginning flower growers need to learn the rule: it is better to overdry than not dry out.

• Only healthy planting material is stored for storage.
• Corms and baby gladiolus must be viewed and discarded all specimens with signs of disease.
• If the corm valuable variety it is weakly affected and it is a pity to throw it away, you can cut out diseased tissues to a healthy place, disinfect the sections with greenery and put them in storage.

For storage, use a basement, a refrigerator, a room with an open window, etc. rooms where the temperature is maintained within 3-9 ° C. Despite the precautions taken before storage, the infection can remain in the scales of corms and irregularities in the shells of the baby. Therefore, during the storage of gladioli, all material should be reviewed monthly and diseased specimens should be discarded.

Preparing bulbs for storage

The humidity in the room should be within 60%. If you do not comply with the regime of temperature and humidity, root tubercles begin to actively grow on the bottom, sprouts appear. The storage of corms and babies interspersed with chopped cloves of garlic helps to prevent the development of microorganisms and thrips, which are replaced with new ones as they dry.

How to store gladiolus in winter.

If you have a good dry basement - this is the best place for storage of gladioli. For wintering, they need a temperature of 5-7 degrees, it can be lower, but not lower than 0 °. The lower the storage temperature, the longer the rest period.

When I didn't have a basement, I kept the bulbs in a box in the coolest place in the house. V country house this place was in the corner under the sofa. So there the temperature was 10-12 degrees, and the bulbs sprouted already in February, and in May I planted them with large sprouts.

• If you store at a temperature slightly above 0, then before planting, about a month in advance, they must be brought into a warm room so that they wake up and start growing.
• But I will write about this in more detail closer to spring, when I am freer.
• Attention! Never store bulbs in plastic bags!

They must breathe. Therefore, boxes, if there are a lot of bulbs, install so that there is air access. It is advisable to arrange the bulbs in the box in one row, in extreme cases, in two. I keep them in vegetable drawers to get air. I install them on top of each other in several tiers.

It is best to store gladioli in winter in boxes or boxes.

During storage, periodically check the condition of the bulbs. If you notice rotten, dried or moldy bulbs, throw them away immediately, and if the bulbs are damp, dry them.

I don’t keep the baby from the bulbs separately, everything is in boxes by variety, there are also labels with the name of the variety.

“Why store by variety if you don’t sell? - you ask. The fact is that each variety has its own characteristics and its own multiplication factor. Some varieties are well divided, some have a lot of babies, some have little. And stronger varieties can eventually crowd out less adapted ones. To avoid this, plant bulbs and store each variety separately.

Sometimes I hear such a statement: “There were many varieties, but then only small ones remained, probably they were pollinated.” When propagated by bulbs, and not by seeds, there is no such concept and cannot be. Just more resilient unpretentious varieties multiplied, and the less resistant disappeared.

• Any variety must be renewed from the baby. Modern varieties beautiful, but little disease resistant. After 3-4 years, the bulbs disappear, and so that the variety does not hatch, it must be renewed from the children. And in order to see which variety needs more, which one needs less, you need to plant and store the bulbs of each variety separately.
• That's all my secrets for cleaning and storing gladioli in the winter. A little laborious flowers, but what a beauty! And wonderful cut!
• If you have any questions regarding the cleaning of gladioli or their storage in the winter - ask, I will be happy to answer.

Beautiful flowers for you!

irynaroma.ru

Questions

Is it possible to store gladioli in a city apartment on the windowsill?

Answer. It is possible if temperature regime does not go beyond certain limits. However, in some cases, individual corms soften during storage, while the rest are well preserved until spring. Softening is usually explained by the fact that the planting material, which was located closer to the glass, froze.

Why is the shell cracked in most of the large dug-out babies?

Answer. The shell of the baby cracks mainly from uneven development, especially when dry and wet weather alternate at large intervals. As a result, nutrients are supplied unevenly and the shell, unable to withstand, cracks.

When digging, there were many sick-looking corms. Can I plant them next year?

Answer. Sick planting material must be discarded. Inexperienced amateur flower growers, sparing the corms, try to save them and plant them. However, such material will either not sprout, or weak plants will form from it, which then die anyway.

When digging, is it necessary to choose a baby with a diameter of less than 5 mm from the soil?

Answer. You need to choose the whole baby from the soil, because otherwise it will clog the soil, that is, a small baby will germinate next year and the purity of the collection will be violated. In addition, some varieties give only a small baby in the mass, which has to be used for the rapid propagation of the variety.

Is it necessary to cut the roots of corms after digging?

Answer. In large corms, the roots are cut off for ease of transportation and storage. In young corms grown from babies, for better preservation, the bottom is not exposed. Their roots are only slightly pruned and left until spring.

After digging, I was advised not to cut off the foliage of gladioli, but to hold them like that for two weeks. Is it correct?

Answer. No, this is not true, since many pathogens of gladiolus diseases can pass into the corm. Such an event can be performed without undesirable consequences only if you are 100% sure that there are no pathogens and pests on the leaves.

How does late digging affect the corm?

Answer. With late digging, the corm ripens better, has a large mass and size. At the same time, in bad weather autumn time diseases spread rapidly. Therefore, experts believe that it is better to lose in the mass of the corm, but win in its health.

During drying, the corms and the baby were covered with a gray-green coating, similar to mold. Why is this?

Answer. This phenomenon is observed when drying corms in a humid room with poor ventilation. This mold is a penicillium mycelium.

Dried corms on a heating battery. They have become soft. Why is this?

Answer. If the drying temperature long time exceeds 40 ° C, the corms seem to be welded and softened.

Is it possible to keep a baby for two years?

Answer. It is possible if you support a certain storage mode.

Stored corms in the refrigerator brand "hoarfrost". In the middle of winter I looked through them - many turned out to be soft. What disease has struck my corms?

Answer. The Frost brand refrigerator does not have automatic temperature control. Closer to the freezer, it is very low. Those corms that softened simply froze. The temperature in the storage area must be constantly monitored. If it drops below 3 C, you need to change the storage location.

After drying, the corms were stored in the refrigerator. Approximately ten days later I looked through them - they were all covered with light brown spots. Why could this be?

Answer. Your corms have been attacked by a disease called brown rot, or botrytis. The disease, apparently, can be explained by the fact that they were not completely dried. Drying must be observed.

I dug up and dried corms that grew out of the baby, I cleaned them of scales and put them in storage in the cellar. They told me what I did was wrong. When should corms be cleaned?

Answer. Corms after digging and drying are stored for storage without peeling. Sometimes only the upper ones are removed if there are signs of diseases. During storage, the scales protect corms from drying out and mechanical damage (as a result of the latter, pathogenic microorganisms can penetrate into the corm). Corms are usually peeled from scales one to two weeks before planting.

If the corms are not completely cleaned, then spores of pathogens and thrips can enter the soil along with the scales. In addition, cleaning corms allows you to additionally verify the absence of diseases on their surface. If diseases are detected, corms are disinfected and treated before planting with microelements and growth stimulants. Unpeeled corms germinate a week later.

botanichka.ru

Gladiolus planting and care in the open field

For those who have grown gladioli for a long time, planting and caring for them is not a problem, but in general, growing these flowers has some features.

• Planting gladioli begins with the processing of bulbs or their children. Scales are removed from the tubers so that the sprouts remain intact. Damaged tubers are discarded. You can leave them only if the scab or sclerotinia only slightly struck them. In this case, the site of infection is cut off and smeared with brilliant green.
• After these procedures, the material is kept in a warm and bright place until they begin to germinate.
• Starting planting, the bulbs need to be treated with a tool that will help them fight thrips and fungus. To do this, you can soak the material for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate and, without washing, land.

Children also need preparatory measures. Two weeks before planting, the shell is removed from the kidneys and laid out under diffused lighting until germination. When this happens, place the material for nine hours in a manganese solution.

To plant gladioli, you need to choose a very well-lit area that can be illuminated even with direct rays - gladioli tolerate heat very well. The planting site must not be low, as the roots of the plants will rot.

Soil for gladioli

Gladioli need soil of low acidity, about 6.5 pH. In other cases, gladioli begin to hurt. Nutrient soil is also needed, they grow well on black soil. If you live in an area with less nutrient soils, then you will need to enrich them.

• We advise you to plant gladioli in places where vegetables were grown, leguminous plants. But in places where root crops and asters are cultivated, this is strongly discouraged.
• It is better to choose a place for planting plants in the fall and fertilize it with dry phosphorus and potash fertilizers. Gladiolus are planted around the beginning of May, but deviations of a couple of weeks are possible due to the climate of your region.
• A furrow breaks through, into which the tubers deepen. If the soil is light, then the recess is carried out by 4 diameters of the bulb. If heavy, then 3. The gap between the rows of plants is about 20 cm.

River sand is laid out at the bottom of the furrow, but it is better to use sphagnum, as it keeps the soil damp and helps fight rot.

Caring for gladiolus requires care. With the young plants reaching 10 cm, you need to cover the area with a layer of 5 cm of humus (mulch it).

Site selection, soil preparation for planting

When choosing a place on the site for placing gladioli, we must remember that they come from sunny Africa and for development they need good lighting. You can not plant these flowers in the shade big plants, on the north side. It is also necessary to provide protection from the wind.
Gladioli are quite demanding on the soil. Heavy clay or peat soil detrimental to these flowers. Sandy or sandy loams are best suited for them. loamy soils with a slightly acidic reaction close to neutral.

It is best to take care of preparing the land for planting gladioli in the fall. Requires autumn digging beds on a spade bayonet. At the same time, organic fertilizers are applied, at the rate of ten kilograms of humus per square meter. Adding a small amount of wood ash will not hurt either.

If it was not possible to carry out these works in the fall, then they can be done in the spring, after the earth has thawed.

Selection of planting material, planting in the ground

For planting gladioli use:

• seeds
• tubers
• corms

In amateur floriculture, planting with seeds is practically not used. It is most convenient to purchase either young corms, or use the "kids". They come in different sizes, to get flowers you need larger ones, very small ones need to be grown and they will bloom only next year.
Well-formed corms form several replacement bulbs during the season, they are much smaller than the main one, it is optimal to use replacement corms for planting.
Large corms have, in addition to the main one, several more lateral buds. With some experience, if necessary, propagate a rare variety, such a corm can be divided. However, there is a risk of destroying it with careless movements.

Ground temperature

When planting gladioli, it is necessary to focus on the temperature of the upper layer of the earth. When at a depth of 8 - 10 cm the thermometer shows at least + 8 degrees, it's time to land.
In most regions, the soil warms up to this temperature in late April - early May.

For planting, we prepare holes with a depth of 2.5 - 3 over size corms. The distance between the holes depends on the size of the planting material. The larger the corm, the greater the distance. Approximately - from 10 to 20 cm. You can also dig a continuous groove and spread the bulbs at a specified distance.

Before lowering the planting material into the hole, it is advisable to shed it well with water or a solution of phytosporin, and all the integumentary scales must be removed from the bulbs and rotted places, if any, should be cut off with a clean knife.

• You can pour five - six garlic cloves hot water, cool and place corms there for a couple of hours before embedding in the ground.
• The holes are covered with loose earth and mulched with dry loose peat.
• This will protect the earth from drying out, because it is advisable not to water the gladiolus until the shoots appear.

If several varieties are planted, then it is necessary to mark the boundaries of each, this will help not to confuse the corms when digging and laying for storage.
Shoots that appear after 12 - 18 days also need care.

Watering

Watering gladioli is done once every seven days in the morning or late in the evening. You need to water a lot, about a bucket per square meter. Try to keep the water flowing directly onto the soil and not getting on the stems and foliage. On hot days, watering is increased.

• After watering, the area is loosened. This procedure must be performed every 10 days. If the peduncles cannot withstand the weight of the buds, then it makes sense to make supports for them.
• Watch the flowering and do not leave wilted and dry flowers on the shoots so that nutrients do not go to them.
• Also, several times during the summer period, the site will need to be weeded from weeds. This is especially important at the beginning of the growth of gladioli, when weeds can simply drown out shoots that have not yet grown strong. In addition, in a neglected area, plants are more likely to get sick and suffer from slugs.

Water for one plant needs at least a bucket, so that moisture penetrates to a depth of at least 25 - 30 cm. The regularity of watering depends on the weather, but frequent and shallow watering harms gladioli.

When watering, you must try so that water does not fall on the leaves; for this, a watering furrow is laid in advance along a row of flowers. After each watering, after rain, as well as once every 10 days in dry weather, the earth must be loosened, preventing its compaction.

top dressing

Gladiolus need to be fertilized. For this, both mineral and organic substances are used.

Mineral dressings are used three times.

• The first is the introduction of nitrogenous fertilizer. This is done when a pair of true leaves is formed on the plants.
• The second time, in addition to nitrogen, phosphoric and potash fertilizer. They are brought in when 6-7 sheets appear on the gladiolus.
• The third time only phosphorus and potassium are added. This is done immediately as soon as the peduncle appears, since then the period of active development of the buds begins.

Organics don't hurt either. Liquid fertilizers should be used, because it will be easier for the flowers to absorb them. Good infusion of bird droppings. This fertilizer is applied every 15-20 days. Starting from mid-August, it is worth stopping top dressing. It is also not recommended to use horse manure as a fertilizer for gladioli.

Foliar top dressing is also quite useful. Spraying gladiolus with mineral dressing a couple of times during the summer season will increase the beauty of flowering and accelerate its onset.

An important point is cutting flowers - you can’t do this when you want. This procedure should be carried out at a certain time, namely early morning and in the evening. Cut the peduncle low enough to hide between the foliage.

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During the season, you will need to feed the gladioli at least five times:

• when a second leaf appears, feed with nitrogen fertilizers for the first time
• when the fourth leaf appears, make a second top dressing
• third dressing after the appearance of the fifth leaf
• the fourth time to feed with phosphates when buds appear
• in early September, the last top dressing is carried out

Weeds are removed at least two to three times, and if necessary, weeding will have to be repeated up to 4 to 5 times over the summer. Weeding is good prevention many diseases of gladiolus, the key to abundant and long flowering.

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Gladiolus have faded what to do next

Working with faded gladiolus: TOP 5 important rules

In the garden there may be gladioli of different flowering periods. Care for each of them after the flowers on the stem have faded is the same. It should be noted that simple rules also apply to those plants that are planted in the spring for admiration, and those that are grown for cutting.

Proper care of the flower after flowering is necessary so that you can get abundant flowering in subsequent years. With gladioli, everything happens almost the same as with varietal tulips - their tubers are dug out every year. But first things first!

So, the peduncle has faded. What to do? Necessary:
Carefully cut the peduncle with secateurs or sharp knife. It is better to carry out the procedure in the evening, so that during the cool night the plant rests from the heat and humidity and can gently tighten the wound. When cutting off the peduncle, a stump of 3-5 cm should be left.

Do the following

• Trim the plant so that all the leaves are at the same level. For large-flowered varieties, it is enough to leave 20 cm of the stem, for dwarf varieties - 10 cm.
• Reduce watering. It is no secret that during flowering, the ground around the flower should always be wet. This is the only way to achieve a dense arrangement of buds on the peduncle and abundant flowering (some varieties are in a hurry to please flower growers with a stem of 36-48 buds). But after the plant has faded, abundant watering not needed: 1 watering every 10 days is enough. However, if the autumn is hot and dry, you can water the plants more often.
• Make 2 top dressings in order to enrich the bulb with nutrients. Usually, 35-40 days pass from flowering to digging up the bulbs, so this amount of top dressing is quite enough. Top dressing: for 7 liters of water you need 1 tablespoon of superphosphate + 150 g of wood ash. Potassium and phosphorus will help lay the onion healthy buds that will delight you abundant flowering next year!
• A couple of days before digging up the bulbs, the plants should be treated (for prevention) with any remedy against diseases and pests. So you will be sure that dry, brown, black rot, as well as rust and scab, are not terrible for the bulb.

These simple actions will make it possible to dig a healthy and strong bulb at the appointed time. The one that will delight with friendly and abundant flowering, bright shade, the maximum height of the stem.

Attention! Many do not consider it necessary to cut flower stalks on time. In this case, the nutrients are spent on maintaining life in the peduncle, the bulb does not get nutrients. And the next year it affects both general view and the development of the plant, and on its flowering.

Digging up bulbs: a couple of important points

If you provided proper care gladiolus after flowering - it remains to wait for the end of September-beginning of October. It was at this time that it was necessary to dig up the bulbs, separate the replacement from the children, inspect for mechanical damage or disease, process and dry.

After that, the bulbs can be stored in the cellar, if the air temperature is + 5 + 6 C, the humidity is about 70%. The main thing here is a box with a grid, a shelf or a pallet, inside which air will circulate easily. A good option- the lower shelf of modern refrigerators. And you will definitely be with gladioli next year!

In fact, caring for a gladiolus that has faded is a simple matter. The main thing is desire and patience - and the result will surprise all the neighbors around!

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Care after flowering

Caring for faded gladioli is:

• in building optimal conditions for the maturation of corms;
• in their timely extraction from the soil;
• drying and preparing for storage.

After the gladioli have faded, the leaves and flower stalks are cut off.

To create favorable conditions for the ripening of the bulbs, as soon as the gladioli fade, cut off their leaves and flower stalks. This technique will make it possible to accumulate nutrients for the corm of the gladiolus without spending them on the formation of seeds.

Specially carried out during this period, potassium-phosphorus top dressing will be especially useful for small bulbs, as it will stimulate their growth. In the form of fertilizers, wood ash and superphosphate can be used.

Attention! The cut should not be carried out at the very root, but leaving a green part up to 25 cm high, so that the resulting baby bulbs also receive enough nutrition.

Then the corms should be left for 20-30 days in the ground for ripening, stopping the watering of gladioli for this period. The lack of moisture in the soil will contribute to an increase in the concentration of nutrients in the corm.

After cutting, the bulbs remain in the ground for 20-30 days.

Features of preparing corms for storage

Digging of corms is carried out depending on the variety - early flowering varieties of gladiolus are dug earlier, late-flowering - later. Removing corms from the ground should be done very carefully so as not to damage them. After all, even the smallest wound can become a focus of the disease, leading to decay of the future planting material. To do this, the bulbs should be removed along with a clod of earth.

Attention! Planned digging of corms of late flowering gladioli is carried out at the end of September and only in dry weather.

The fact that the corms are fully ripe is evidenced by the darkened scales and the children easily separated from the main bulb. If, due to prolonged wet weather, dark-colored spots appear on the foliage, the digging of the bulbs should be carried out earlier, this will prevent their infection with gray mold or botrytis.

Cleaning of corms should be carried out manually, carefully removing the ground and immediately rejecting rotten specimens and very small bulbs. After that, the corms can be washed, and even treated for 10 minutes with a solution of potassium permanganate (1 g per 2 liters of water) or a solution of the Maxim preparation.

Preparing corms for storage includes the following steps

1. Cut off the remains of the stems, leaving a stump 1 cm high.
2. Manually remove the bottom and roots.
3. High-quality drying of gladiolus corms is a guarantee of their safety throughout the winter. To dry the bulbs well, they are laid out in a room with good ventilation and t ° not less than + 25 ° C, keeping for at least 2-3 weeks, or dried on a sunny day outside. In this case, the bulbs will dry out in 5-7 days.
4. Dried and peeled corms should be placed in a cardboard box, laid out in one layer, or folded into a stocking, a woven bag and hung in a cool room with low humidity - t ° not higher than + 3-5 ° C. At higher temperatures, corms may begin to germinate .

Attention! Periodically stored corms should be inspected; if spots are found, the affected bulbs should be removed. If signs of germination are found, the bulbs should be dried additionally for several days, and then transferred to a colder room.

Providing gladioli proper care after flowering, you can get first-class planting material for the next season.

Gladiolus is a real decoration of the garden. Why don't all flower growers breed gladioli? Everything is very simple - these flowers are troublesome to grow, because their corms need to be dug up every year and stored in special conditions. Only then can you get the result - a wonderful flowering.

1. Terms of digging gladioli

You can start digging gladiolus bulbs after 30 days, as they fade in warm and dry weather. Each variety of gladioli has its own flowering period, so it’s difficult to talk about specific dates, but usually it’s the period from the first to the fourth decade of November .
Overdosing gladioli in the ground is not worth it, as rotting and fungal diseases can begin. Bulb tubers that are grown from buds are dug out last.

2. The process of harvesting bulb tubers

The bulbs are dug out with a shovel, and even better with a pitchfork, after which the soil is shaken off the tubers, damaged and rotten bulbs are immediately thrown away.
After the bulbs are dug out, lay them out on a plank or plywood floor, dry a little and cut off the stems with a sharp knife or scissors, leaving about 2 centimeters.

3. Preparing for storage

In order for the bulbs to be well stored, they must first be dried for a month at room temperature.

In order not to dry out the bulbs, do not remove the scales from them, which prevents the rapid release of moisture.

When the bulbs are dried, carry out their primary processing - rinse and, in order to protect against diseases, dip them for half an hour in a solution of potassium permanganate or chlorophos (20 grams per 10 liters of water).
Corms that have not matured will not store well in winter, so it is better to wax them. Take the corm right in the scales with tweezers for the rest of the stem, and dip it in melted paraffin for a couple of seconds, then cool it under running water cold water and dry. Now planting material can be laid for storage.

4. Storing gladioli in a trench

If winters are mild in your area, choose an area where there is no close occurrence ground water. Dig a trench 80 cm deep and 70 cm wide. Put the gladiolus corms in boxes, sprinkle them with dry sawdust, then lower them into the trench, cover with dry foliage and then cover with a film that will protect them from melt water and rain. Trench laying is carried out before steady cold sets in.

5. Storage of gladioli in the basement

A cool, dry basement with good ventilation is ideal for storing gladiolus corms. True, there is one caveat - crops should not be stored in the basement, because fruits and vegetables emit a lot of moisture during storage, and this leads to moldy corms, as well as to their early awakening from dormancy. The storage should have a constant temperature in the range from +4 to +7 degrees and relative humidity from 65 to 80%. For tuber buds of gladiolus (dektok), try to create a cooler temperature (by 2 - 3 degrees) or more high humidity(from 85 to 90%).
If possible, make boxes with a mesh bottom, thanks to which the planting material dries quickly and is better stored, as it is well ventilated.

6. Storage of gladioli in the loggia

Gladiolus corms can be stored in a glazed loggia. If it gets very cold, place the corms in a pre-prepared and insulated container with a thermometer. Place it on boards or other heat-insulating lining, and in case of special severe frosts Throw a warm blanket over the container.

7. Storage of gladioli in the apartment

In the apartment, choose the coolest place. Fold the corms into a low wooden box, lined with paper, and cover with calcined river sand. Can also be used instead of sand charcoal and ash.
Healthy and quickly dried corms after digging (you can use a fan when drying) can really be stored in an apartment even at a temperature of 18 - 20 degrees. Just do not wrap them and lay them so that they do not touch each other, and the moisture released quickly evaporates. True, with such storage, corms noticeably lose volume by spring, but if they are soaked before planting in a growth stimulator, then with appropriate care, they will grow and bloom well.

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You can store corms of gladioli and on the windowsill. Shield them off room heat and ventilate the planting material through the window.

8. Storing gladioli in the refrigerator

The refrigerator is convenient in that the condition of the planting material can be monitored at any time. Also, there is a stable temperature and humidity, and when roots appear, you can lower the temperature by shifting the container to the top shelf.
Wrap each onion in plain paper, napkin or newspaper and put everything in a plastic bag, after making several holes in it for ventilation. It is better not to put the bag in the lower compartment (for vegetables) - it is covered with glass and therefore “does not breathe”. It is better to place the bag on top of the vegetable storage box - there the air humidity is close to optimal: 70 - 80%.
Check every 2 weeks at first. If you find dampness, dry the bulbs and replace the paper. Then you can check once a month.

9. Pests

If pests are found on the bulbs (usually it is tips), treat them with Inta-vir. Solution: one tablet per ten liters of water. Then dry the bulbs for a week. If you do not find "Inta-vir", you can treat the bulbs with hot water (55 - 60 degrees) for 10 minutes, and then with cold water (10 -12 degrees).

Growing gladioli in open ground is considered quite simple, but still carried out according to certain rules. In order for the plants to bloom for a long time and profusely, you need to choose the right site for planting them, as well as select and process the bulbs.

When to plant gladioli in the open field in spring and how to do it right - read this article.

How to plant a gladiolus

By their own biological features gladioli require gardeners to follow certain growing rules. The site is selected in accordance with the requirements of the plant, as it is a light and heat-loving flower.

Planting and caring for gladioli is carried out as follows(picture 1):

• Plot preferred with well-drained, light-colored soil and without drafts. In order for growth and flowering time not to slow down, it is better to choose the location of the area in the northern part. It is also not allowed to plant a flower in an area with a high level of groundwater. It is advisable to choose a flat area or with a slight slope to the south for removal excess water, and in southern regions darkening of the area at midday is acceptable.
• Soil acidity is an important ingredient in cultivation. On such soils, the flower does not open well, darkens and fades, it develops fusarium. A slightly acidic pH of 6.5 to 6.8 is considered the most best indicator. The plant turns yellow if the soil is alkaline, since the iron content does not dissolve in it and slows down the formation of chlorophyll in the leaves. In order to neutralize the acidity of the soil when digging, it is recommended to add dolomite flour or eggshells at the rate of 150-200 grams per square meter.
• The best soil considered loam. To create such a soil structure, sand is added to heavy loam, and if the soil is sandy, clay is added to it with a small amount rotted compost. When the site warms up well, it is dug up and the bulbs are planted.

A good planting site is considered to be places where vegetables and legumes used to grow, but it is not recommended to plant them in places where asters or root crops were previously planted.

If you have already decided on the landing site, then it is recommended to dig up its site since the fall and apply phosphorus and potash fertilizers.

Figure 1. Features of planting gladioli

Landing is carried out from the end of April to the middle of May. Bulbs must be properly placed in the soil. large bulbs deepen into the soil by 10-15 cm, and small ones - by 8-10 cm. Large bulbs are placed at a distance of 15 cm from each other, and for small ones this figure is only 7-8 cm.

Preparing the furrow for planting, you need to spill it with water and a solution of photosporin. It is necessary to pour a few centimeters to the bottom river sand and a layer of sphagnum moss. Next, lay out the bulbs and sprinkle them with soil. This method of planting and care will ensure rapid establishment and will retain moisture and nutrients at the roots.

Peculiarities

In order to succeed in growing gladioli, you need to learn a few important rules.

Key growing features include:(picture 2):

• The plant is not grown in one place for more than two years and must be transplanted in the third year to another place.
• When transplanting, choose a site with a different soil composition. If earlier the flowers grew on sandy loamy soil, after two years, transplant the bulbs into light alumina.
• Flowers need to be adapted to your climate zone, as they don't like to go from warm to cool climates, or from dry to wet.
• Large bulbs are planted separately, and not next to small ones, as they will deprive each other of nutrients.

It must be remembered that gladioli love the light and do not grow well in the shade. Only planting of early varieties in shaded areas is allowed, but in this case, their flowering period will come later.

Figure 2. Options for placing plants in a flower bed

To avoid the appearance of fungal diseases, the area must be ventilated. Also practiced foliar top dressing, but on condition that gladioli grow in sand. In this case, the flower is simply sprayed with fertilizers.

In summer, they need to be watered abundantly once a week. But if it costs too much hot weather, watering is carried out every evening, followed by loosening the soil.

Required Tools

Gladiolus always takes root and blooms beautifully where other cets take root with difficulty.

For planting and caring for it in the open field, you will need a standard set garden tools: a shovel for digging, a chopper or hoe for loosening the soil and equipment for watering. It is also recommended to prepare boxes in advance in which the flower bulbs will be stored in the winter.

Landing Rules

Planting gladioli in the spring in the ground is carried out according to certain rules. Corms are peeled from densely covering scales 3 weeks before planting. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the sprouts.

Note: All diseased or partially affected bulbs are removed so as not to infect the entire flower garden with diseases.

After cleaning, the planting material is laid out in one layer with the sprouts up and stored in a warm and bright room until the shoots germinate. Before planting, it is recommended to immerse them in a solution of potassium permanganate or foundationol to protect against fungi and pests.

Fertilizer and top dressing

Preparing gladioli for planting in the spring and their further cultivation involves top dressing (Figure 3). In the early stages, mineral fertilizers are used, which are applied after the appearance of the first two leaves.

Figure 3. Types of fertilizers and dressings for flowers

Gladioli also need organic fertilizers. They are applied in liquid form for direct penetration to the roots. On the initial stage growth use an infusion of bird droppings. Such top dressing is repeated every 2-3 weeks and stopped after August 15.

Note: The only organic matter that is not suitable for the plant is horse manure, both fresh and rotted.

Foliar top dressing is also considered effective - spraying the leaves. minerals. This increases the decorativeness of the culture and prolongs the flowering period. To do this, use a solution of boric acid (0.15 g per 1 liter of water), a 0.15% solution of potassium permanganate or blue vitriol(0.2g per 1 liter of water). The leaves are fertilized twice during the summer: at the beginning of growth and during the budding period.

Plant propagation

The flower propagates vegetatively (by corm and baby), but in some cases seeds are also used, especially for breeding new varieties (Figure 4). Corms are selected by size:

• From 3 to 7 cm;
• From 2 to 3 cm;
• From 1 to 2 cm.

Bulbs 3-5 cm are considered the best for getting babies. Bulbs measuring 7 cm do not give enough quality plants, which bloom weakly and give few children, and also often get sick.

Figure 4. Propagation by corm division

For receiving more corms, part of the large bulbs is cut in half, into two equal parts. In this case, one should try to keep the lateral kidneys on each of the halves.

Gladiolus: planting and care in the open field

The care of planting plants must be approached very carefully (Figure 5). In order to protect the soil from dehydration and overheating, when shoots appear, the bed must be mulched with a layer of humus up to 5 cm thick. This good way feed the plant when watering. Plantings are watered abundantly once a week, approximately 10-12 liters per square meter. Water is poured into the inter-row furrow to a depth of 3-5 cm so that the liquid does not fall on the leaves. After watering, loosening is carried out so that the soil is not covered with a crust.

Note: Regardless of precipitation, the soil is loosened at least once every 10 days.

If necessary, arrows in buds are tied to pegs, while all dried shoots are removed so as not to consume the nutrients necessary for seed ripening.

Figure 5. The main stages of care for gladioli in the open field

Weeding is necessary method care. On average, it is carried out 3-4 times per summer. If the area is overgrown with weeds, the flowers will be small, and the plants themselves may be attacked by pests or diseases.

Preparing Gladiolus Bulbs for Spring Planting

In addition to proper planting and care, it is important to observe certain features of storing bulbs. The dormant period of the plant lasts 35-40 days. During this period, the corm will not germinate, but if the room temperature exceeds 10 degrees, sprouts may still appear.

Bulbs are stored in a box and every month they need to be inspected and damaged planting material removed. For better storage several peeled garlic cloves are placed in the box. Once a month they are replaced with fresh ones.

It is recommended to store the corms in a cold basement with good ventilation, and the best storage containers are mesh boxes in which air can circulate, allowing the bulbs to breathe. For convenience and saving space, boxes are placed on shelves.

Figure 6. Soaking bulbs before planting

If you have to keep gladioli in the apartment, then put them in an airtight container (so that they do not lose moisture during storage) and place them in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf. All bulbs must be wrapped in paper, and closer to spring they are taken out, unpacked and dried and re-placed in the refrigerator. In a warm climate, they are taken out for the winter to an insulated balcony or loggia in boxes. During the cold season, the boxes can be wrapped with a blanket. During the winter, the corms shrink, dry out, so they are soaked in a growth stimulator for better survival in the garden.

How to prepare gladioli for planting in spring: video

Features of storage of bulbs and their proper preparation for planting in open ground shown in the video.

Planting gladioli in the spring in the ground

The soil for gladioli must be nutritious, so they grow well on black soil and light loamy and sandy soils. If the site is located on clay and sandy soils, it is necessary to fertilize them with peat or humus.

In autumn, they bring into the soil phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, and in the spring the site is dug up on a shovel bayonet, simultaneously introducing nitrogen fertilizers.

Rules

Proper preparation of the bulbs plays a key role in planting (Figure 6). About a month before planting, planting material is brought into the house and inspected. All damaged copies are deleted.

For prevention, all healthy bulbs are soaked in potassium permanganate or garlic solution (250-300 g of chopped garlic per 10 liters of water). After processing, the bulbs are dried and laid out for germination in a cool, bright place. Before planting, the bulbs are soaked in the stimulator for 10 hours.

As a rule, flowers planted so early begin to bloom in July-August. When planting in June, you need to water more often, but the main thing is not to overdo it so that excess moisture does not provoke the development of fungi.

Gladiolus sits at a depth of 10-12 cm with a distance of bulbs from each other 10-15 cm. If desired, a hole for watering can be made near each bush.

When the gladioli have sprouted, it's time to provide them with the right care. The basic rules for caring for flowers are:

• Watering is carried out as the soil dries out in the evening;
• In the morning after watering, the soil must be loosened;
• All flowers are checked for the presence of aphids and thrips (if found, treat the plant with an insecticide).

When the stems of the plant dry out, the bulbs can be dug up for storage and further transplanting to a new place.

Gladiolus in pots: planting and care

If you do not have the opportunity to grow gladioli in a flower bed, you may well plant them in an ordinary flower pot.

Planting and caring for flowers in pots is carried out as follows(picture 7):

1. The capacity for planting should be roomy, with a diameter of 20-30 cm and a depth of up to 40 cm.
2. Excess moisture is the first enemy of the plant, therefore drainage system in a pot is a must.
3. For planting, take whole healthy bulbs with a stem height of more than 50 cm.
4. The range of time for disembarkation is wide: from the end of March to the middle of May.

Growing gladiolus in pots is most suitable for dwarf, small and medium flowering varieties. At home, gladiolus is watered at least 3 times a week. A layer of mulch laid out on the surface of the soil will help retain moisture.

Figure 7. Planting and growing flowers in pots

Proper nutrition is the key to a long and beautiful flowering plants. To do this, use mineral mixtures based on nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, as well as organic fertilizers with substances to stimulate plant growth.

Planting gladioli in pots: video

If you are interested in how to properly plant gladioli in pots, we recommend watching a video that shows this process in detail.